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Godfather2112
08-05-2020, 06:16 PM
I'm new to the board and purchased Bryzoe's buggy a few weeks ago from him (build thread here: https://www.minibuggy.net/forum/ss1000-two-seat-race-buggy/19966-basic-protolite-ss1000-frame-build.html)

Let me first off start by saying Bryzoe did one hell of an amazing job on the build. I've had the entire buggy looked over and the welds are top notch and you can tell he but a lot of time and probably frustration into building this vehicle. I'm definitely very lucky to have picked it up from him and he's been amazing at answering questions that i've had. Hopefully he will pop on in here as I update the thread to either correct or comment.

The buggy definitely has very low miles on it and I believe it only saw the dunes up in the Northwest U.S. When it was delivered, it was definitely setup for dune application. The ride height was high (as can be expected) and overall suited that application very well. My intentions with the buggy are to have it setup for high speed desert / dirt and will likely enter it into a few races, might even have a separate setup for road coarse application ( I live in Salt Lake City). The first thing I addressed was lowering the ride height by several inches and correcting the steering to work with that. I took the buggy out to the Knolls, just east of Wendover. It has everything from high speed trails, wide open desert / dirt and dunes.

I can tell you this thing absolutely rips and getting up to speed happens very quickly. That said, I did encounter a few items that are currently being addressed.

1: The engine temp was running pretty hot within a few short minutes of driving under heavy load. I did have the engine temp light come on twice after a few minutes of hard driving and had to slow down and let it cool. The day was cut short to address this. Note: I did not continue to drive it hard when the light came on and was able to bring the temps down and light off within 20 seconds or so but had to keep driving slowly to bring the temps down to normal range for 3-4 minutes. Heating issue would repeat itself. The outside temp was somewhere in the high 80's.

2: Since this was setup for the dune style application, there was a fair amount of steering play / slop. Ideal for dunes but not for my application

3: The nitrogen shocks are sitting fairly soft and had a decent amount of roll. I did get it on 2 wheels once at not very high speed but tight turn. Sand was soft so i'm sure this contributed to it digging in and getting up on 2 wheels.

4: I started to notice increase / decrease in steering response when turning right (I believe right). I slowed down to several miles per hour and began to turn left only to see the left wheel near sideways and not turning. One of the nuts on the front steering came lose and the steering rail fell off. Thankfully I was going slow and was able to put it back on and drive slowly back to the truck to tighten it with tools.

5: Braking took significant force and had minimal bite

Current adjustments / work in progress to rectify the above.

1: There was not an overflow bottle connected and simply had an overflow dump tube on both radiators. I am installing an overflow and believe this should prevent overheating / hot temps. In the event it does not, I will be looking either moving the radiators back a little bit and adding airflow ducting either from the sides plumbing in or will have airflow ducting / snorkles made firewall behind the seats (sitting in between both seats) and plumbed to the radiators or removing the dual radiators and going with a large single radiator with dual fans on the top frame bars. I'll have the buggy out the week of the 15th to see if this needs to be done.

2: I'm having the entire front end ripped apart and beefed up with larger joints, bolts, helm joints, etc. This should take out nearly all of the slop / play and give a near 1:1 steering feel. Also having all the bolts replaced with locking where needed.

3: Having a complete alignment done along with corner balance and adding oil to the Fox 2.0 shocks to increase stiffness. If i'm still unhappy with them, I will be looking at coilover with remote reservoir setup.

4: Same as 2. All nuts and bolts replaced with locking where needed and beefed up.

5: Front calipers were positioned so that the bleeder screw was on the bottom resulting in loss / low brake pressure applying to the brakes. I am swapping the left and right calipers which will fix this. Rear calipers were positioned side to side versus vertical. I am having brackets made which will place them in more vertical position allowing for optimal brake pressure.


I did purchase and EZ steer kit but do not feel it needs to be added so I will be returning it. Since I use a tinted visor on my race helmet, the digital temp becomes near impossible to read especially if slightly dirty. I will likely be adding large Defi Amber Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil pressure gauges.

I also purchased a SpeedOdrd that needs to be calibrated a little bit more for speed accuracy. I'm currently pondering on removing the entire GSXR 1000 gauge cluster and having a whole new dash made and using a AIM IVA or MXG or MXP for all on in gauge cluster.

Rear spoiler will be added. Deciding on look / build.

I might also purchase a set of OMP or Sparco racing bucket seats (HTE-EVo or Pro Advantage).

Nerf bars will also likely be adding for class racing.

https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3QII.png
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3PKs.png
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3ZP1.png
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3sSb.png
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3BoQ.png
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3Vw5.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3avD.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3qcw.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3FpO.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3Aav.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/f3xih.jpg

Now for some pics (pics are taken after lowered ride height):

K-fab
08-05-2020, 06:38 PM
Welcome to MBN!!

I remember that build. He put a lot of time into it. Glad to hear that it's still being used.

Great intro and write up and it's good to see someone that knows what's going on with a car.

Definitely keep a log of what you're doing here. If nothing else it turns out to be a great place to come back and see what you've done/forgotten.

Godfather2112
08-05-2020, 07:39 PM
I’ll definitely get pics up later. I tried earlier but the site seemed to have issues.

I’m also picking up a Sierra car (Sierra-cars.com). My buddy is the CEO and we grew up building Subaru’s together. He also owns Lyfe Motorsports and was the driver of the Lyfe Nissan GTR. Took the Sierra car out for a rip a few weeks ago and that vehicle is no joke. Just complete cross kart race built insanity.

darwinpayne2000
08-05-2020, 07:50 PM
Welcome aboard!!! As you can see, I'm also in the Salt Lake area, however my buggy is much more modest than yours. It has an air-cooled industrial engine (Predator 670) that I'm currently wringing out to get as much performance as it will give me. The only gauge on my buggy is a Tiny-Tach tachometer that bit the dust over the winter. :(

Yeah, brake calipers that are mounted with the bleeder screw on the bottom. I've seen that movie and it doesn't turn out very well. At least you caught it and you have a fix.

Post some pictures when you get a chance. You can always attach the pictures to your post. The site can be a little persnickety about image size, but I take them at 1024x768, or thereabouts, and they post without any issues. Maybe someone will look at the pictures and have some ideas about how to increase the airflow through the radiators, however, scoops sound like a good idea.

Godfather2112
08-06-2020, 01:44 PM
Pics should be up and working. I should have everything completed on the buggy by Monday.

Darwin, shoot me a PM if you ever want to go out and rip the buggies. Iím currently just loaner status lol

K-fab
08-06-2020, 01:57 PM
Pix were working, not sure what’s up now.
I’ll poke around a bit later and see if I can make something happen.

Godfather2112
08-12-2020, 01:22 PM
So I have a rather stupid question. Does the RMP gearbox have fluid that needs to be changed out or does it incorporate the oil from the GSXR engine?

SVP
08-12-2020, 06:54 PM
Yes, it has it's own fluid.

Godfather2112
08-29-2020, 01:17 PM
Update:

-installed radiator overflow bottle - routed overflow tubing
replaced all the heim joints with more robust ones (improved steering response a fair amount)
-Repositioned front and rear calipers, linger brake lines and adjusted bias
-installed a flex AN fitting on fuel cap and ran tubing to vent rear of frame
-drilled and installed new Dzus button and springs on vent panel above brake solenoids (allows for quick 1/4 turn removal.)

Im not sure how far I want to take this buggy but future plans include

-Nerf bars
-ducting for radiators or relocation of radiators for better cooling
-Fox 2.0 coil overs (piggyback)
-upgrade front brakes to 2 piston calipers
-electric quick steering rack
-OMP or Sparco certified race seats
-OMP steering wheel
-AIM Data logger digital fashion gauge (will have new dash panel cut and rearrange layout)
-fire suppression system
-rear sway bar

I’d say the buggy is 80% of where I’d ideally want it to be. I’m torn between keeping it or selling it and picking up a demo model Sierra Car RX3. I’ll take it out a few more times and figure which path I want to go. Pics of upgraded heim joints, misc suspension and steering bolts and joints, overflow and gas cap AN fitting

https://img.nasioc.com/i/jx8JP.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/jx6l4.jpg
<img src="https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxGAg.jpg" alt="jxGAg.jpg" border="0" />

https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxCGT.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxLeS.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxSQ0.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxWDn.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxbY8.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/jx4tt.jpg
https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxGAg.jpg
<img src="https://img.nasioc.com/i/jx4tt.jpg" alt="jx4tt.jpg" border="0" />
<img src="https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxbY8.jpg" alt="jxbY8.jpg" border="0" />
<img src="https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxWDn.jpg" alt="jxWDn.jpg" border="0" />
<img src="https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxSQ0.jpg" alt="jxSQ0.jpg" border="0" />
<img src="https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxLeS.jpg" alt="jxLeS.jpg" border="0" />
<img src="https://img.nasioc.com/i/jxCGT.jpg" alt="jxCGT.jpg" border="0" />

Godfather2112
09-03-2020, 05:01 PM
Anyone have recommendations for a quick ration electric power steering rack?

K-fab
09-03-2020, 10:57 PM
EPS (electronic power steering) goes in line in the steering shaft, between the steering wheel and the steering rack.
You’ll need to get a rack that has the right distance spread (or add a spreader) for your tie rod mounting points.

Search along a bit and you’ll find a few builds with EPS. Saturn View and Prius are common donors.

Godfather2112
09-04-2020, 12:17 PM
I’m assuming I could with something similar to this:
https://www.kartek.com/parts/400-watt-12-volt-sand-rail-dune-buggy-baja-bug-manx-or-utv-universal-electric-power-steering-kit.html

or

https://www.superatv.com/universal-power-steering-kit-170w-220w

Or would you suggest ripping one out of a Saturn or Prius?

K-fab
09-04-2020, 12:42 PM
I’m assuming I could with something similar to this:
https://www.kartek.com/parts/400-watt-12-volt-sand-rail-dune-buggy-baja-bug-manx-or-utv-universal-electric-power-steering-kit.html
or
https://www.superatv.com/universal-power-steering-kit-170w-220w

Or would you suggest ripping one out of a Saturn or Prius?HOLY CRAP! Those are EXPENSIVE!

Salvage yard and/or eBay. Like I said, poke around here on the site and see what others have used. My EPS is from a Saturn - has a little control box that allows you to adjust the input power. I got it from Flyerrider and he got it from??? Still, it wasn't anywhere near the prices you've linked.

Linden318
09-07-2020, 02:28 PM
Iím assuming I could with something similar to this:
https://www.kartek.com/parts/400-watt-12-volt-sand-rail-dune-buggy-baja-bug-manx-or-utv-universal-electric-power-steering-kit.html

or

https://www.superatv.com/universal-power-steering-kit-170w-220w

Or would you suggest ripping one out of a Saturn or Prius?

I pulled one from a 2008 Nissan Versa. I got it for about $20. When it is unplugged from the cars electronics, it will default to a pre set amount of steering assistance which is just right for a buggy (so Iíve heard, havenít driven my buggy yet). I actually got the whole steering column, steering wheel down to the 2nd u joint. Itís good to take as much as you can so you can use parts if you need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Godfather2112
09-09-2020, 12:01 PM
HOLY CRAP! Those are EXPENSIVE!

Salvage yard and/or eBay. Like I said, poke around here on the site and see what others have used. My EPS is from a Saturn - has a little control box that allows you to adjust the input power. I got it from Flyerrider and he got it from??? Still, it wasn't anywhere near the prices you've linked.


I pulled one from a 2008 Nissan Versa. I got it for about $20. When it is unplugged from the cars electronics, it will default to a pre set amount of steering assistance which is just right for a buggy (so I’ve heard, haven’t driven my buggy yet). I actually got the whole steering column, steering wheel down to the 2nd u joint. It’s good to take as much as you can so you can use parts if you need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the information guys, much appreciated.

I have a random question for you all and just want to get some opinions. The lady doesn't like riding in the buggy as its "too fast, loud, stiff etc." Lets say I wanted to convert the buggy from how it is now (SS1000) down to a single seat DXT1000. Would the work and cost involved be worth it? I would have to have a shop do it as I simply do not have the tools nor the welding experience needed to do it. From looking at the designs, clearly the width would need to be taken in and the front end shortened. I'm not sure of the cost to do so would be significantly cheaper than having a new frame made or if it would come out to be roughly the same. Any thoughts on this?

Godfather2112
09-14-2020, 01:37 PM
Took the buggy out on some trails up in the mountains yesterday and my cooling issue, while improved is not resolved. There were several times I saw the engine temp approaching 240 degrees while under heavy load on ascending trails and had to back off, turn around and slowly drive in 3rd - 4th gear to cool it down. This maybe happens within 10 or so minutes of driving. Ambient temp was maybe 80 degrees at most. If going on flat surface under heavy load, it stays around 220 which still seems rather hot or is this about right? I’ve owned several GSXR - 1000 track bikes and I can’t remember getting the bike above 210 but that was a while back.

My first thought is to relocate the radiators behind the driver and passenger on the roll cage where the tubing comes back (see pic) towards the vehicle 37121

The other idea is adding dual intake style snorkels and ducting them to the front of the radiator (less ideal I think).

I also want to upgrade the rack and pinion as I hate how much play is in it. Im
this one (https://www.pacificcustoms.com/saco64-1011.html) or similar but will need to check the spline count.

Lastly, this sucker needs some front and rear sway bars for the type of riding I do. I’m going to have to assume these will be custom cut with drop links unless you all know of somewhere that has some that will work.

My final question for you guys is in regards to the rear sprocket. The current sprocket is an 18 tooth sprocket which more or less seems to be fine. The goal for the buggy is to have it setup for rally cross / kart cross application. I don’t foresee me needing to exceed speeds of 90 mph but would like more low end power / torque if possible. Should I stay with the 18 tooth sprocket or go down a size?

Im currently working with Accutune to come up with an ideal coil over for the buggy. Probably looking at Fox 2.0 piggyback coilover with 5/8th shaft which should give 10” of travel. If I bump up to the 7/8th shaft, I can extend the travel up to 18” but that seems excessive for the driving I’ll be doing. Any thoughts on this?

K-fab
09-14-2020, 04:19 PM
I'd move the rad up to where you've indicated in the picture. They like free flowing air when possible.

Saco makes good stuff. You can always get a u-joint that adapts - they make this to that spline joints.

Travel is travel and the more the better in general. It'll give you more articulation over what ever terrain you're in.

You'll be able to control sway with dual rate springs and stop collars to get the main springs active at a point that the roll is getting too much.
Sprint car stuff - midget?
Dunno where to get them. I took a total shot in the dark and made mine with a piece of 1x.065 chromoly and roughly 12" long arms. Just guessed and initial rides say it's close. Chromoly is nice and springy.

Godfather2112
09-14-2020, 06:01 PM
Awesome, thanks Kfab. To go with the longer travel I’ll have to bump up to the 7/8 shaft which isn’t a big deal. Now to figure out spring rates.

Godfather2112
09-15-2020, 03:17 PM
I should have the radiators relocated to the location shown by end of next week (hopefully). One of my gripes I want to address is the shifter location and how it functions. I race karts and some other vehicles that use sequential and am use to pushing forward to go down gears and pulling to go up. With that said, I think i'm going to build a center console that separates the driver from passenger and install a new sequential shifter. Does anyone have any experience with this (https://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PC&Product_Code=ac711140&Category_Code=latest_rage). There are more expensive ones out there that also incorporate a reverse mechanism like this:
https://www.kartek.com/parts/hargett-dual-lever-mendeola-sequential-transmission-shifter-for-s4-s4d-s5-s5d.html
https://www.kartek.com/parts/fortin-racing-sequential-shifter-black-anodized-finish.html
https://www.mckenzies.com/products/weddle-sequential-shifter-s4-s5-by-hargett

That said, those seem rather expensive for just a simple sequential shifter. I was thinking I would just mount the reverse lever that's there further back towards the rear firewall with the sequential upfront. Any thoughts or suggestions on a different sequential or issues that might arise?

Godfather2112
09-20-2020, 04:58 PM
Started to work on the radiator relocation this weekend and as I’m removing the radiator behind the driver side, I noticed something that I probably should have noticed before. The oil cooler was attached in front of the radiator. I’m not sure if this was part of the original design by Jodie or if that’s simply where the previous owner decided to attach it to but I’m having to assume that’s part of the reason I have hotter than ideal temps and close to warning temps under heavy load on inclines.

So instead of completely relocating the radiators (at least for now), I will be relocating the oil cooler further back and also installing higher density fans (larger fins) to the front of the radiator along with shrouding to direct the airflow. If for some reason this still does not work, I’ll relocate the fans to the area indicated in the pic above.

im also exploring the idea of changing the rear suspension to a trailing arm application. Currently it’s been completely scanned and entered into a cad program at a local off road company and we’re going to look at the total cost involved in doing so. We would also extend the rear axles out a bit. Depending on total cost, it could end up with a completely different rear end geometry with Fox 2.5 piggyback coilovers.

im at the cross roads where “do I drop another $10k into this or sell it and splurge on a Drakart Scorpion X2”.

darwinpayne2000
09-22-2020, 03:49 PM
Drakart's still in business? Who knew! Well, I guess Godfather knew that. :cool:

Here's my philosophy. Building is half the fun of owning. If you're doing the work yourself and you enjoy doing it, then drop another $10K into the buggy and when they ask you "did you build that", you can give them a satisfying "yes!". If you're contracting out the work, then I would look and see what you can get for your buggy and go for the Drakart.

It seems like off-road buggy's are really expensive when you're trying to buy one, but incredibly cheap when you're trying to sell one. :)

Kuma
09-22-2020, 05:52 PM
It seems like off-road buggy's are really expensive when you're trying to buy one, but incredibly cheap when you're trying to sell one. :)

Yes it always seems that way, if you look at what some people are asking for their SXS's you would think you were buying it off the showroom floor.

Godfather2112
09-25-2020, 04:24 PM
Drakart's still in business? Who knew! Well, I guess Godfather knew that. :cool:

Here's my philosophy. Building is half the fun of owning. If you're doing the work yourself and you enjoy doing it, then drop another $10K into the buggy and when they ask you "did you build that", you can give them a satisfying "yes!". If you're contracting out the work, then I would look and see what you can get for your buggy and go for the Drakart.

It seems like off-road buggy's are really expensive when you're trying to buy one, but incredibly cheap when you're trying to sell one. :)


I have to be honest, I did not build this. I bought it from bryzone (he has a build thread on here). I believe I paid $16k for it plus $700 to ship it. Lets just round up and say $18k once you factor registration and all that. Now factor another $3k in having all new heim joints machined and some other misc stuff and i'm around $21k -$22k into this.

Drakart has a new Scorpion 2 and 4 seater using a hayabusa with sequential and optional 4wd. The base model 2 door is like $45k, add $3k for 4wd (which I probably wouldn't go with).

Its a terrible time to try and sell this so i'll likely hold onto it through the winter although I do have it listed for sale but not aggressively selling it. The one thing I really dislike about UTV's is the fact you either have CVT (boring and belts just suck) or you have flappy paddle option with Honda and Yamaha. Yamaha does offer a 5 speed manual sequential in the YXZ and the option GYTR turbo puts it up to 200hp which is kind of cool and I was quoted $21k OTD for one with manual 5 speed in SE trim. However, then I would need to add a cage, gussets and other frame support / upgrades, skid plates and long travel kit which throws you up and above $30k pretty quick. I can afford it, just not sure I want to.

I do have an account with Copart and Manhein auto auctions. I have tossed around the idea of finding a rolled Can-Am X3 or some sort of insurance claimed X3 for $10k or less, picking up a wrecked 2015 or newer R1 and using the engine from that and swapping it in. I could use an RMP gearbox, quaife or throw down some cash and go nutty with a Sadev gearbox (stupid pricey, roughly $15k but you get what you pay for), have the engine cradle made and have one rather crazy Can-Am. I figure that would set me back $30k-$35k before selling off the engine, trans, etc.





Now, back to the SS1000.

Has anyone ever considered running some snowtracks in the rear with either Snowcobra or custom made snowski's up front? I live in Salt Lake City so we have plenty of wide trails for snowmobiles and think the SS1000 could be a pretty damn fun time with some tracks and skis on it. I'm wondering if you would be able slide it around turns similar to a trail snowmobile or if it would be some albatross trying to get it to handle some sweeping turns.

Kuma
09-25-2020, 06:45 PM
I havent done any snow maybe if you had speed you could slid the ass end around but get on the power and I would think it would just want to go straight

Beruba
09-26-2020, 03:03 AM
https://youtu.be/SJN3zrp7tO0

Not tracks but paddle tires was fun until the chain snapped.
The GPS recorded 82MPH max speed on that run. [smilie=mhihi.gif]

Kuma
09-28-2020, 07:36 PM
nice, but I wanted to see you deploy that parachute[smilie=dunno.gif]

Godfather2112
10-01-2020, 02:34 PM
That looks pretty damn fun.

Went hiking down in zions / the narrows last weekend so I wasn’t able to finish up the cooling on the buggy. Hopefully I’ll have that wrapped up by end of the weekend and get some pics posted.