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View Full Version : F1000 BEC maybe Vintage Brabham or Lotus body, CBR10000RR motor, Halp!



Johnski
11-16-2018, 06:48 AM
364193642036421

The wheel hub uses a K6ZXR front rotor, a CBR1000RR caliper, a custom upright, brake hat and caliper mount plate.

Johnski
11-18-2018, 07:12 AM
I found a CV axle with 28 spine inner and 27 spline outer from a Chevy Colorado, it's a bit short, but I might be able to cut the center axle and weld a bigger tube over it.

jimmyg
11-19-2018, 10:27 AM
Weight is the key to your build. Why start behind the eight ball by adding weight and failure points to your drive shafts? If it's for budget reasons and you already have them I get it but otherwise find a set that will fit.

Johnski
11-20-2018, 05:51 AM
Yeah, that won't be ideal. I bought one cv axle to see if the splines even fits in my diff and hubs. I just looked through one of the micro-stub-cv-axle threads. Learned alot. I would hope I can measure for a custom mid-axle once I have the drive fitted.

Anything I'm doing horrible wrong?

36422364233642436425

jimmyg
11-20-2018, 06:21 AM
Looks great!

Johnski
11-28-2018, 12:36 AM
The CV axle I got seems promising, it fits my 28 spline torsen diff and the 27 spline chevy hubs. But I need to make it about 8" longer. (If I had a nickle for every time I've heard that...)

First I can't seem to get the outer joint apart to fit a longer axle (or cut/weld a tube to make it longer). I would guess there is a c-ring-clip holding the axle in (like how axles push into diffs). I've watched a youtube video of a guy pounding on the center ball carrier (splined part) while the axle is in a vise and it popped out. I couldn't get it apart and I pounded pretty hard (aluminum bar on the center ball carrier). There is slight axial movement on the splined part, so I don't think it's press fit.

Second, presuming I can get it out, where can I find a longer (premade) axle? Or get the correct length to start with, but I couldn't find anything (whole cv axles) even close.

CARLRIDDLE
11-28-2018, 12:16 PM
The 27 spline number, is that the count of the wheel bearing hub?
The spline count of the axle "should" be same inside and out.

Not familiar with the torsen diff,

Johnski
11-29-2018, 08:05 AM
Yea the Torsen splines should be a chevy 28 spline, and I have Blazer hub assemblies that are 27 spline.

I think the cv axle I got measured 22-29/32" end to end compressed. So I need something about 32" with those ends.

Of course I had to start building a wood version frame, just to see how it fits!

Johnski
12-17-2018, 03:19 AM
Getting some frame work done...in the wood shop! And a little design on a "vintage-ish" body.

Johnski
12-29-2018, 04:45 PM
I welded up a wishbone with a bearing cup. How's it look? I think the weld tightened up the hole a thou or 2. Not sure if I should attempt to press in the bearing or try to ream it out a bit (with what?). When new there was a nice slip fit between the two.

ProtoDie
12-31-2018, 02:32 PM
I've built a bunch of this style for circle track race cars. We made an aluminum plug to limit heat distortion during welding. a few we had to ream.
I would ream it out. try msc.com to find the correct size reamer

rowycoracing
12-31-2018, 11:42 PM
I welded up a wishbone with a bearing cup. How's it look? I think the weld tightened up the hole a thou or 2. Not sure if I should attempt to press in the bearing or try to ream it out a bit (with what?). When new there was a nice slip fit between the two.

As Proto said you can ream it. If it is only a thou or two you might try flap wheeling it. To make an easy and cheap flapper take a piece of round rod, split it in the center with a dremel or hacksaw and slip some abrasive strips in it. Longer strips for larger diameter, shorter for small diameters. Spin it full speed in a drill and it will take a tad bit off pretty uniformly.

Johnski
01-01-2019, 03:15 AM
Oh, I'll try an aluminum plug on the next ones. I guess it would be better to have to press that out than having to ream afterwards.

Whoa, I looked for a reamer and they are expensive, I'll try the flap wheel on this one.

Thanks

K-fab
01-03-2019, 12:33 AM
Did you get the axle apart?

There’s a clip in there. You need to hit it with some force and some mass to get it apart. That or put it in a press.
Hold the axle in a vice and hit the star towards the end of the axle. Thick walled tubing over the axle with a lip you can pound on will usually take the star off.
HIT IT.

Johnski
01-03-2019, 02:09 AM
I did not, I think I need to use more force. A tube around the axle is a good idea.

Johnski
01-08-2019, 04:29 AM
Flap wheel worked good. About 5 minutes with a hand drill did it.

Here I'm getting my camber adjust sleeve nuts ready for tapping.

rowycoracing
01-08-2019, 11:29 PM
Flap wheel worked good. About 5 minutes with a hand drill did it.

Here I'm getting my camber adjust sleeve nuts ready for tapping.

Glad to hear that it worked for you.

Johnski
01-16-2019, 05:57 AM
I turned an aluminum plug and stuck that in the next cup before I welded. Worked great, the aluminum plug came out easy after cooling and the bearing slid right in. Thanks for the tip ProtoDie!

Johnski
01-25-2019, 04:21 AM
Did you get the axle apart?

There’s a clip in there. You need to hit it with some force and some mass to get it apart. That or put it in a press.
Hold the axle in a vice and hit the star towards the end of the axle. Thick walled tubing over the axle with a lip you can pound on will usually take the star off.
HIT IT.

Still can't get it out. I must need a bigger hammer and something more secure to hold the axle while I pound. I also tried to rig up something with a pry bar, didn't work. Figuring in the leverage I had, I must have been putting 2000 pounds of force between the star and the axle, dang. It's getting personal now!

Maybe something with plates and jack screws would work.

K-fab
01-25-2019, 12:01 PM
Still can't get it out. I must need a bigger hammer and something more secure to hold the axle while I pound. I also tried to rig up something with a pry bar, didn't work. Figuring in the leverage I had, I must have been putting 2000 pounds of force between the star and the axle, dang. It's getting personal now!

Maybe something with plates and jack screws would work.
Some of the Honda Pilot axles I’ve gone up against have needed a press and hammer and heat and lots and lots of swearing at to get results.

The little circlip is amazingly strong once corroded in place.

CARLRIDDLE
01-26-2019, 12:04 PM
You can cut the axle up against the cv the roll cv around to get apart. But that means no reusing the axle to lengthen. What did axle/cv come from? Spline count of the axle?

Johnski
02-14-2019, 06:38 AM
I think it's a Blazer 2004 ish front axle. The inside fits my Torsen diff (27 or 28) and the outside is 27 or 28, which ever the inside is not. I was working on a jig to use a step in the axle as a push point and then use jack screws to pull it apart.

I got distracted and have been working on my uprights and caliper brackets.

K-fab
02-14-2019, 12:00 PM
Happen to have other pics of that upright?It looks quite impressive.

Johnski
02-14-2019, 03:31 PM
I'm almost done with the uprights, I need a bottom tap for the 3/4-10, and I need to do the 3/8-16 holes in the top for a steering plate.

Here I'm trying to decide if the bolt is merely huge or comically huge.

The triangular pocket is for the wheel bearing hub to get the right offset from the rotor to the center of the caliper.

Johnski
02-18-2019, 03:20 AM
Left front.

Johnski
02-21-2019, 06:14 PM
In best Borat voice, "Success, I real man now!"

But wow! I broke 5 splines off the end of the axle and extrude sheared the clip into three pieces. I assume that's not normal.

On my jack screw press, the outside plate has a tapered hole and then I inserted 2 split cones to grab the step on the axle right there. Then 8 3/8 bolts pushed the two plates apart. No dramatic pop or anything, it just slowly pushed it apart.

K-fab
02-22-2019, 12:22 PM
Damn! I’ve never seen one go that badly.

Fantastic tool engineering.

Johnski
03-31-2019, 07:15 AM
I was able to cut the axle and turn the ends to fit this 1-3/8 x .188" tube. It looks good to me. I won't weld it until I've got the diff mounted and suspension on. I would think I should weld around the joint and do some "plug"? welds in the overlap zone.

Also working on the diff "cage". Hopefully soon I'll have the diff attached to the engine and can mount that to the frame. Then I can weld those axles.

Johnski
04-03-2019, 06:47 AM
Got 1 diff bearing holder done. It holds the diff bearing and a bearing for the output axle cup. I didn't push the bearings all the way in, cause I'm not sure how I can remove them easily. But it looks like they should work as planned.

Johnski
04-08-2019, 03:32 AM
Getting the diff pretty close to being mounted to the engine.

K-fab
04-08-2019, 08:20 PM
27 different straight edges, parallels, nineties... Yeah, that alignment stuff is fun, isn't it. LOL!

Johnski
06-10-2019, 03:44 AM
A nice day to get the parts out of the basement and put it together as much as I could and fantasize about driving it someday! I forgot to tap some holes in one of the uprights, so I didn't get all the suspension arms on.

K-fab
06-10-2019, 12:48 PM
Nice looking work.
I like the old school wooden seat in the modern steel space frame.

Johnski
06-10-2019, 10:52 PM
The "seat" is just a mock up right now, when I make the real one I think a Mahogany or a classic Teak might look nice ;) haha!

K-fab
06-11-2019, 12:24 AM
LOL! Indeed!
It is a vintage build so...

Johnski
04-07-2020, 07:31 PM
Doesn't look a whole lot different, but I think it's almost to a roller stage. I post most of my build log on Locost.