View Full Version : 1/2 Scale Crawler in the UK

06-08-2018, 08:47 PM
Hi to everyone. I recently joined the Facebook group and I'm going to start a build thread of the buggy I've been making for my kids, so it begins...


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06-08-2018, 09:49 PM
So most of these old photos have been pulled off of my Pinterest, but there is no better place to start from than the beginning. Soooo, that's where I'll begin. It'll be slow progress uploading as I'm gonna put descriptions with the photos. But it won't be as slow as actually building the thing!

Here's where it all started. The side cross for the cage. I have no idea why I started with that, seems so random now, prob because I was testing my notching and tig welding skills???. Anyways that's how it started. I'm using 1.25" aluminium (aluminum to you yanks lol) wall thickness is about 1.2mm so it's lightweight.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/cfaf40021b0a424b6db406b3ea3ba267.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180608/0e5d028213019534a2a34e3aa9f9d8be.jpg

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06-08-2018, 11:44 PM
Welcome to MBN!


I like the idea of alumin(i)um for a small car's cage.

Full four wheel drive I see - how about steering? Top (sideways) picture looks like it may have it?

What are the dimensions?

I'm sure you'll share power plant and such as you post pix.

Cool ride!

06-09-2018, 06:51 AM
Thanks K-fab,
Yes it's 4 wheel steer and 4 wheel drive. It will be powered by 2x 48v 800w electric motors and 4 x 60a/h car batteries. It's not a massive car so it should be powerful enough, hopefully. I'm not an electric guru so my calculations are pretty basic.

It's a work In progress but I wanted it to be my project so I'm learning as I go. Some interesting problems have arisen during the build and so I just went from one task to the next.

Progress has been slow as I have a busy schedule and it's not been a simple build. There are no plans or anything I can follow, just rough dimensions and make everything fit around the space I had available.

So the idea was to have a little truck the kids could play around with, I didn't want to put an engine in as I wanted it to be quiet as there is not much land where I live to drive this thing, so I wanted it to be low key.
Electric seemed to be the way forward as I could mount a motor the front as well as the rear and have 4 wheel drive.

This meant I had to find a solution to steering as well as powering the front wheels, so I just did the same on the rear too, so it has 4 wheel steer as well. I tried a couple of ideas to get the steering to work and am now most of the way through completing the front and have all the parts ready to go for the rear.

Sorry if this seems long winded, but I want to get my thoughts and reasoning down before I forget everything and it may even explain why it seems I made crazy choices ha ha!!

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06-09-2018, 07:18 AM
So these are the next pictures in my gallery.

I trawled the wide web looking for inspiration and came across images of the Edge Barracuda and it's rear driveline. I liked the simplicity of it and it would work for my application.
So I copied it. I scaled it it down and simplified it even more.
I had a lathe with basic tools and a milling machine with even less tools so splines were out of the question and c.v. joints from cars were way too big so I used some universal joints from eBay. Btw, most of the stuff for my buggy came from eBay, I'm not a rock star so my budget is paltry at best.
The sprocket was decided by the pitch of the sprocket on the motor I wanted to use so I got a 420 pitch 41 tooth pit bike sprocket. (I'll talk about why 41t later when I get to the wheels)
The disc rotor is from a pit bike too as it had similar dimensions and the caliper available was both hydraulic and compact, and came with a master cylinder (and it was gold, and I'm a tart!)

So I drew some rough drawings and designed a disc and sprocket carrier to be mounted on a central drive line, using 30mm bearings mounted to a carrier I hadn't designed at that point. I wanted it all to be modular in case I had to swap out the sprocket for a different type so the carriers are bolted to the central cassette.

The first pic is the start of the carriers. I had no stock big enough so it is 20mm aluminium plate which I used a hole saw to bore out the centres and then I plasma cut the outsides.
They were then mounted in the lathes and then the outside was cleaned up, then the inside bored out. Can't remember the exact dimensions.
Next step was to turn a shoulder for the disc and sprocket to sit flush against.
6 holes were drilled and countersunk so they could be bolted to the central cassette.
The central cassette was turned down from 100mm aluminium bar and a shoulder for the disc carrier and drilled to suit. They were then ready to be bored out for the 30mm axle.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/f1c2d9f1b6183339e4c0f1610be4ceb1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/fff6183b09b1615cf930fd6d7900ed6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/d4471ae2f7c90dda6ed4400e6679aa99.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/357e021e1b09d04cc66944582a69a30a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/77029ac7b6ff65f7d901ed581bdb05f0.jpg

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06-09-2018, 08:45 AM
The first pic is of the keyways being broached into the central drive cassette. I used a parting tool I shaped and locked off the head stock, using the toolpost back and forth. Shaving a fraction at a time. I saw this technique used on a YouTube video and it worked perfect.
As I mentioned earlier, I was doing 2 of everything as the front mirrored the rear. I only had one sprocket and brake rotor, as I wasn't sure if it would work out and I didn't want to waste cash.
You might see I'm using loads of ugly Allen head cap screws for everything. This is because I had a full set of them and they will probably get replaced with dome heads when the build is complete. I replaced the bolts for the brake rotors already as they Interfered with the bearing carriers.
The second pic is the 2 drive cassettes completed.

A lot of people who have seen it have said, why not get the motors now? (Which I still haven't got yet). It's because I wanted it to be a full complete buggy with all the little details ironed out before I move forward to power. This is because I don't want to rush anything. I know as soon as I see the wheels turning under their own power, I'll rush to get it out of the door, and I was it to be as good as I can get it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/bdd5f2f618e7dbb8094b9126502226f7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180609/d3d4434781b06f2d08a087c3543955e7.jpg

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06-09-2018, 04:26 PM
Nicely done.

There are a couple other electric powered projects here (dain?) on the site. I’ll bet they can help with any questions and such.

06-09-2018, 04:34 PM
Thanks. I'll have a look around. I've just been looking through your raptor build thread. That is on a complete higher level. Looking forward to reading through the lot. Such craftsmanship.

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06-10-2018, 02:13 PM
These are the hubs I spun up in the same style as the central drive cassette. 20mm bore and keyway broached into them. 6 bolts attaching the mounting plate to the hub centre. Wheels not bought at the point for they weren't drilled for the correct PCD.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/f85a26f4f5d1e95bf746d08576404ce4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/059519eb87f318e5141dc5183e405883.jpg

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06-10-2018, 02:15 PM
These are all 4 hubs nearing completion and front and rear central drive cassettes. And 2 lumps of Ali which I can only presume were the beginnings of the uprights. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/8225753014ceb746abad6f89d8fe7faf.jpg

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06-10-2018, 02:21 PM
Work then started on the uprights. Simple cylinders with the ends internally bored to take bearings. Not sure on the size I used but I think they were mountain bike bottom bracket one's. They won't be going fast and the size was perfect for the space I had. Plus they are very common, therefore cheap, and with the option to upgrade to some real high quality if needed.the joints are 10mm rose joints with hi- misalignment spacers.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/14b411bc12419682c33681c0877af1e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/c57e152aa494c2903dff1ea1c463c293.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/6cd1c9f93c30e73bf6bcf7ea657225d5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/7d5793251fcc24176923115fea0af6d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/aa7a44381f4a6a3e194d44e458e30a9f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/a67b027aa5c7c3ee6fd38b292f8731ff.jpg

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06-10-2018, 03:56 PM
A-arms were next. These were 20mm mild steel. About 1.5mm thickness. Ends were threaded M10 and the mounting points were the just the tube I used which was about 16/17mm ID. I was planning to use delrin as the bushing material.

The a arms were all the same dimensions as I didn't need any camber change throughout the travel. (I keep having to remind myself that this is essentially a kids toy with no need for fancy geometry). This meant that I could keep the driveshafts solid as long as the mounting points on the chassis were in the same planes as the uprights. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/70c27f09c383cd1c2a4fbe8414e20f70.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/a07595f1ae7a4584ea31e684c191a189.jpg

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06-10-2018, 04:02 PM
Mounting tabs were next to be made. 5mm flat bar with the end notched out 20mm to match the tube I was going to use for the lower chassis. Drilled out to 8mm (Which is the size for 90% of the build). I cut to size and made up a little jig. I used the washer as the guide for the radius which meant I could replace if I went too far, and I could grind it quickly without burning my fingers!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/ce1e8cf8f5234bf4ee8ff2f0332181e1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/9da0affbcc76005ba8ae98edd7134bab.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/7aa6f39312557327c3a080e671403cdd.jpg

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06-10-2018, 04:14 PM
Work on the chassis started once all 8 arms were complete, Delrin bushes were made from 20mm and the threaded inserts were welded in.
I wanted to keep the width to a minimum and got some 30mm bearings. I had the eBay special universal joints so I could start working everything out. As long as the centre of the UJs was in line with the upper and lower a-arm mounting points, then all should be fine.

I raked the front up 20 degrees as I wanted the front to be able to take an impact with the springs taking some of the force. Plus it would look cool, and I'm all about looking cool haha!
I actually ended up bringing the mounting points closer together than on these pics.

The width of the main chassis lower rails was to sit the 12v batteries inside of. Keeping the weight as low and central as possible. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/f723505f83f939a514055d26c2d8cd80.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/b316badbc77fda5969bf3e44cc7ce8f2.jpg

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06-10-2018, 04:41 PM
The frame with the battery in. The length of the chassis has to be at least 4x the length of the batteries, so that's how long it is. Plus it fit in with the fact it would be half the length of a land rover defender 90" wheelbase. So I wanted the proportions to match the land rover.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/0a1bdc60a17ca6766139b0076ad21034.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/001f9e9d83e8f9db09f6b9e6ed6084bc.jpg

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06-10-2018, 04:45 PM
A few shots of the a-arms together and the drive cassette placed inside. Was working out where it needed to be. I couldn't place it central as I needed space for the shock to go.

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06-10-2018, 04:55 PM
Really nice work.

I like the combo use of materials and the simplicity of the design.

06-10-2018, 04:57 PM
Here you start to get a sense of the scale of this, the plate it is on is 1m wide and short of 2m long ( I had cut a bit off the end for the sprocket and rotor carriers and the wheel hubs).

The seat I made from sheet Ali was placed in with the side bars so I could work out how much space I needed for the cockpit width. As it turned out, with the seat mounted at that level I needed the chassis to be longer for the legroom needed, and it was pretty narrow so I opted to mount the seat on top of the central battery cage. This solved the length and width issues but meant I had to build higher. So I decided to raise the level of the side bars with an angled floorpan.

The front a-arm mounts were completed along with the rear. And an aluminium plate was mounted to help stiffen the front and rear end up also with an integrated tow point.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/ddde2932cb8bcb5f5f27aa3307fe76d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/2106c2e3ea39674e41db31597eb59dbd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/53378eb612595c12f83f127fef10e2ea.jpg

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06-10-2018, 04:59 PM
Thanks Richard. I just finished your build thread, all I can say is Wow! If mine ends up a fraction as well as yours is looking, I'll be more than happy.

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06-10-2018, 05:06 PM
I started work on the belly pan. I knew it needed to be tough but was very weight conscious. I used 1mm thick steel sheet and drilled about 10 million holes (that's what it felt like) with a 1" hole saw and folded up the ends into a little tray. It was a bit flimsy so I knocked up a dimple die on the lathe and got to work. Fitted it into the tube work and tacked it into place.

The 4 batteries are a snug fit. So snug I have to tap the last one I to place with a nylon hammer. Which I'm happy with as I don't want batteries sliding around.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/b63fb7f6451560cb9ac83f0f55f4a499.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/26a944ae4e57e9bcc515220a1faf94a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/dd9bc081e034d5323be68bba2f45e6b8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/84ee09ed9c2eb419fe8df554eadaafed.jpg

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06-10-2018, 05:44 PM
After suitably recovering for the 1 million holes I drilled for the centre belly pan, I stupidly decided to drill another 3 million.
I kicked up the edge of the seating area floor pan giving clearance and so it would raise the body up a little.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/0cf75171582bccc872daea6e652e4dd3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/6f372b807dac25c0c8bcb949ca1cd8af.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/2330b7f9b45290414aae8de90194f765.jpg

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06-10-2018, 06:17 PM
More lower chassis work.
That's all the holes drilled and flared. I can remember how relieved I was that the floor was done.
I folded over the end sheet to make a sort of box section. I didn't think that another tube in there was needed.


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06-10-2018, 06:28 PM
I started on the triangulation tying the outer ends into the central battery cage.
I also put tube vertically on the ends with a washer welded on top, giving me mounting points for the A and B pillars of the cage.
I wanted the cage to be light weight and removal. I also didn't need it to be structurally integral to the chassis, so I could change it anytime I needed to.


So you can see that the front and rear upper bars are fitted in. Plating the front was pretty simple just a few measurements with a steel rule was all that I needed. The rear plating was a but more tricky.


The lower chassis is taking shape now with all four batteries fitted.


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06-10-2018, 08:04 PM
The rear plating was completed with the aid of the good old Cardboard Aided Design.


The lower chassis is pretty much as it is today. Just with a few tabs and brackets added.


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06-10-2018, 08:19 PM
I made a mockup driveshaft out of aluminium. Mainly to see if it would have any change in driveshaft length throughout the cycling of the travel, to see if there was any binding, and also to see how much it would need offsetting to allow for the shock and steering.


The bearing carriers were bolted up to some 3mm aluminium plate and it was set on some 25mm angle steel as the start of the mounting points in the chassis


The angle was drilled and notched to reduce mass and the aluminium drive assembly was bolted in set back as far back as I could to allow for the winch I had planned to go in the space.
I was planning to put a winch plate on just for show but a Warn came up for a good price at just the right time....



I cut out a bit of the mounting plate, looks a bit funky but I'm not a machinist and it's the best I could do.


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06-10-2018, 08:32 PM
The front and rear driveline is mounted now.


It's time to move along to the suspension. I ordered some motorcycle shocks from the world's favourite marketplace and a sweatshop in the far East sent me these golden beauties. I can't remember the specs of them but I'm sure I've got the link saved somewhere.


The mounting of the shocks was pure guesswork if I'm honest. I knew the stroke and estimated the weight of the bike they were for and roughly compared it to the weight of the buggy, anyway they went where they fitted and I made a couple of fixing points on the lower a-arms.


I swapped the uprights around as the space for the steering tie rods would be at the front. I would have preferred them to be tucked away in the rear but that's where they ended.


The shock tower was built with the aid of Cardboard Aided Design again and I'm pretty pleased with how they came out.


The lower chassis with the front making good progress


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06-10-2018, 08:47 PM
A pic of the warn winch. It fits between the shock tower and the redesigned front plate. Space is starting to become a premium in the front there so I know getting the steering right was going to be difficult for me.



The brake calipers and master cylinders arrived so I set to work fitting the front one in.


The rear shock tower was knocked up in a similar fashion to the front. I left the top flat as I wanted the rear bed to sit on top.


A few close ups of the caliper mounted


I had to notch a bit of the chassis out for the caliper to slide. And the aluminium mounting plate.

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06-10-2018, 08:55 PM
Big day in the little workshop. Wheels arrived. I went for 25x8 quad wheels I think the pcd was 4x108. Well that's what I ordered. 2 different pcds were sent. However I got them cheap and they were the last set. So I remade 2 of the wheel hubs to match the wheels.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/c3ee8a8fa356aa667fc2c96a75c853bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/930893e18d67e75d64163139ecc2c59e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/8262de7d36a15554a2f2c2e87ec3f3a3.jpg

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06-10-2018, 08:59 PM
I got to work fitting the wheels and I was pretty happy at this point. It started to resemble a buggy.
I think it was at this point I wanted to re-do the seats. I only made one so it was no big loss.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/5be97c134391ea7d7d9882d5d50066b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/518ab1197180c06f7a27139418ab62f5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/575607eb128aca3275c50f73cf3b9b47.jpg

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06-10-2018, 09:07 PM
I wanted the tie rods to be in double shear but they were too far down and the angle was pretty extreme. I made a pin out of phosphor bronze as I had a little left over. So I knocked up 4 and used a M6 csk head bolt to secure the joint onto the top. I had to chamfer the top of the bolt but it turned out well. I was experimenting with different steering ideas but nothing felt right. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/48b952ee94bfd525863f7468ae07d86f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/16ce6297699c2140e9e4e412afa171fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180610/70ef3d8290809024a80acf054e614b3a.jpg

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06-11-2018, 06:15 PM
In one of the pics above there was a bell crank I was going to use to transfer the steering movement 90 degs so I could link the front and rear together running off a rack and pinion unit. I scrapped that idea as there was so much play in all of the linkages.

So after scratching my head for a while I decided to take a pass on that problem and just keep moving along.

I decided to change the seats. I went for a 2 piece design giving me more flexibility for mounting. I made a lightweight aluminium base for the bottom part and the upper was to be mounted in the top section. They ended up in the bin too. I just wasn't happy with them.


This pic is of Jack. The future pilot of this buggy. I think he was 2 or 3 in this pic. He's 6 now.


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06-11-2018, 06:25 PM
I started on the roll cage. This is mainly an aesthetic piece really, but I wanted it to be functional too.

I borrowed a tubing bender. It was a JD Squared JD3 and set about bending the A and B pillars. These fitted into the uprights of the lower chassis. I welded a threaded boss to the bottom of the hoops and bolted them up.

The side X braces went in next along with a X brace for the roof, and then the front hood/bonnet hoop. After experimenting with a couple of ideas I decided to tie in the front plate with another hoop


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06-12-2018, 07:57 AM
A little bit more progress on the tube work.
The top X brace starting to be welded up

The front received upper bonnet bars.

I then bent some for the wheel arch area. To tie the front to the side. I bent the bar for more tyre clearance.

The rear tubes were then bent up. The upper follows the line of the top of the bed, and the lower is one piece that forms the bottom and follows the arch line to tie into the rear hoop. Then 6 spacers were notched out to joint the 2 rear hoops together. Another tube was added to the A pillar which added a bit more rigidity and I'm hoping to put a light bar in the space.

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06-12-2018, 08:07 AM
I decided at this point (in my infinite wisdom) that I wasn't happy with the track width. I thought it looked more like a golf buggy than a mini-buggy.
Back to the drawing board and I decided to increase the length of the A-arms. This meant making new ones. I could design the shock mount into the arms, rather than an afterthought. It would also give plusher suspension travel, increased ride height and the angles of the driveshafts and steering tie rods would be less extreme.

Notching in the mill.

Shock mount fits well.

The first arms fitted. It brings the wheel fully outside the body.

Comparing the old and new.

View from the top - old.


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06-12-2018, 05:52 PM
What a great build and I love the fact that you've documented it so well.

Holes - you must have been sick of drilling holes! But it gives it a wonderful attention to detail aspect.

Funny how things like this get made, remade, made again and oh, I'll change that too... I just sent I don't know how many feet of cut up Mini-Raptor cage to the garbage man.

Suspension looks much better with the wide setup.

For an on the fly build, this one is really well thought out (after each re-do... - yeah, been there...) and from the first pic you posted, looks like it turned out beautifully.

Now that you've teased us with suspension and seating, how about the steering and then the drive train? You've perked my curiosity!

06-12-2018, 09:05 PM
I've just wrapped up the steering today! But I want to catch up really but it's a work In progress and not sure if I'm happy with it yet!

Sneak peek!!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/45a021ac38f99523d1542f3481e23e54.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180612/f777bf71068b729b3b0b1fae4115e4da.jpg

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06-12-2018, 09:27 PM
I decided to use steel for the lower a-arm as most of the load will be going through them. And I used 20mm aluminium tube for the upper, to save a little weight.
You can see the tie rod was now too short, but as I was still not sure which direction I was going to go with the steering set up, I just carried on moving on.


I drilled out the front and rear shock towers to lighten them a little.


Here is a shot with the cage back on, nearing completion.

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06-12-2018, 09:33 PM
I took the time to take a bit of excess material from the brake rotor mount.

I added another bar to the front, to match the rear styling and to reinforce the front lower mounts.
Tyre clearance wasn't an issue as the wheels were a lot further out now.

I started to make some panels from aluminium sheet about 1mm thick. I wrapped them in 3d carbon fibre effect vinyl wrap.

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06-13-2018, 05:40 AM
In the last pic above you can see a few items on the box in front of the buggy to help me with the steering. A linear bearing in a mount and some stainless steel bar.

My initial idea was to join the two tie rods together with a bell crank to transfer the side to side movement to front and back, but the bell crack I first made was rubbish!!
There was so much play in the linkage and I wanted to eliminate as much of it as I could.
I knew there was going to be no room for a conventional steering rack in the front or rear so I made a tiny rack an pinion rack, without the rack or pinion.

I got a 20mm linear bearing in a tidy little aluminium mount and 20mm 303 stainless bar.
I turned some clevis ends to suit M8 male rose joints.


This needed a mount to line the rack up perfectly so there was no bump steer.

Now the front wheels were connected to each other, and so were the rear.

The plan at this point was still to use a drag link and bell crank to joint the front and rear to the central rack and pinion unit.

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06-13-2018, 06:04 AM
As I was happy with the length of the new a-arms I decided to make the driveshafts as it was all sorted. I took some steel tube about 1.2mm wall thickness and turned a shoulder into a steel boss.
I TIG welded them together and straightened it all out in the lathe and drilled out the boss. This was to ensure a good fit with the uni joints.

I started looking into a handbrake as the only brakes are foot operated and I didn't want the thing rolling off. So I looked at a few pics for some inspiration.

So I thought I'd give it a go! Can't be that hard can it?.....Yes it can.

The ratchet being milled out.

The lever and body

Totally didn't work. Round 2.
Happier with mk2

Big ass release button


Its still not mounted in the buggy. I've got a mountain bike cable caliper to mount into the rear but will wait to see until the motors are mounted. The gear ratio might mean it won't roll away anyway.

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06-13-2018, 06:47 AM
This is the part where I make seats for the third time. First 2 attempts were consigned to the history books, I liked the look of the Kirkey aluminium race seats so I had a mooch around the internet and found a plan for a teeny weeny seat for a RC car.

I liked that style and found the sizes for a kids seat.


I changed the design to suit my buggy and the size of my kids and transferred it to sheet aluminium


I cut them out, folded and welded them.
The 4 cut outs on the back are harness holes. 2 at the bottom for my son, and 2 top one's for my daughter. I plan on running 4 point harnesses.


I considered running 8mm round bar round the edges as a safe edge but I ended up using rubber edging trim. The seats are stiff enough anyway.

I cut some 6mm ply and used some foam and black vinyl to make little pads

I finished off the seat with more flared holes to add a little more rigidity, save a few grams and to match the floor pans


The drivers seat is on a adjustable seat runner from a Mazda MX5 (Miata). I cut it in half and it has about 5" of adjustment.


I still haven't mounted the passenger seat yet but all the lover mounts are in place ready.

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06-13-2018, 12:07 PM
Great idea for the different size riders! How are you going to secure the unused belts when driving?

06-13-2018, 12:16 PM
I'm probably going to use a quick release at the back of the upper harness so it can be rethreaded through quite quickly. It's not going to be a fast buggy, but it should have enough torque so it will be able to get upside down pretty quickly. I'm gonna think about arm restraints or a side net. I'm horrified just thinking if a little arm came out during a roll.

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06-13-2018, 12:26 PM
Steering. I was given a broken RZR rack. The end had been broken off, no big deal as I could afford to lose a little. So I cleaned up the ends and I shortened the outer rack on the mill


I turned some phosphor bronze for the ends

And pressed them into the main body

I clamped up the Inner rack to a vee block and TIG welded back together


Finished article


This is where I was going to mount it. Clue... it's not there now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/cf15f8274250359430f2b22a34323b5f.jpg

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06-13-2018, 06:52 PM
So these are pretty much the last photos I had from my old job. I moved house and job just after these were taken and didn't really get a chance to touch the buggy for about 2 years as I spent a lot of time overseas. Jack was about 4 in this pic https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/1853997ab30183757d9f853e0e8e3ed8.jpg

I got land rover style letters for the front, and make a little grille

I made aluminium side boards but I'm probably not going to use them.
I also folded up a dash from sheet.

I got some little LED light from eBay


I made a dolly for pushing it around the workshop as I broke a rose joint dragging it around.

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06-13-2018, 07:00 PM
I made a trailer to haul the buggy to my new house.

In the garage.


Beth in the seat. She's about 10 here.


Beth helped me take the buggy apart to add a little paint



It was really frustrating as all I wanted to do was get on with all the fab work I needed to do but I couldn't get on the tools.

I managed to find a place to put it at my new workplace and do a little work on it but not nearly enough time to spend on it.

I managed to do a little work on the trailer


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06-13-2018, 07:33 PM
So I started building the Buggy in 2014 and I moved in May 2016. So I got to pretty much a roller in those 2 years working on it part time.

Fast forward another 2 years and I'm now finding myself with a little bit more time at least until Oct when I'll be out of the country again for around 8 months, so I'm trying to get as much done before then.

After chatting with a colleague about the troubles I'd been having with the steering, he suggested using cables, like a car gear selector or an outboard motor on a boat. I thought it had merit so I pushed on with it. Using 2 cables working in opposition in the front and the same for the rear.

I put my thinking cap on and cracked on with designing a way to control the cables using the rzr rack.


These cable clamps are for the ends of the rack.


The rack has a mount for the outer cables in the centre using existing holes.



Fitted with the cables for the front


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06-13-2018, 08:11 PM
The innovation you’ve put into your buggy is wonderful.
I’m enjoying the build. - picture heavy posts are always fun.

06-13-2018, 09:15 PM
Thank you for the words Richard, it does mean a lot. I've had a good few days on the buggy this week and I've got a fair bit done, well I've been busy, but as you well know, looking back, there's are only a couple of jobs ticked off!

I set about doing some of the little niggling jobs.

I made some misalignment spacers for the Inner tie rods front and rear.

I also made some spacers to stand the cable ends off the linear rack.


So that was a few hours on the lathe.

They are fitted to the rear rack here but the front one is done also.


I had to rethink the outer cable mount for the rear as there is a little less room in the back.

I cut some angle steel down to mount to the top of the linear bearing mount


I put a M5 thread insert in and you can see how the cables attach to the rack with the new spacers here.


I used some solid bar and drill through 3mm for the Inner cable to fit through and countersunk for the outer cable to sit inside. This was then welded to the steel mount


Here the rear rack is fitted and it's a self contained unit.


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06-14-2018, 05:53 AM
I ordered some little red LED lights for the rear from eBay. I wasn't sure how I would go about mounting them in the rear, but I decided to roll some Ali sheet up an follow the curve of the cage at the back
Clamped it into place ready for riveting


To be honest the lights were a little smaller than I'd expected but I can live with it!!


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06-18-2018, 01:25 PM
It's been a busy weekend, I've had a bit of time to spend on her.

I decided to work on the seats.


I finished drilling the back out as I'd started to ages ago.

I tried a new technique to flare the holes. BFH.


Worked quite well


I made a boo boo, started drilling in the wrong place. FFS. Managed to save it though.


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06-18-2018, 01:28 PM
Put a bit of paint on the seats. Just need a clear coat now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180618/53a88c75e12abc773313532ba75e43de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180618/aa4fa161a672895f9c0ebc61d7a9496d.jpg

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06-18-2018, 01:33 PM
Firewall/bulkhead next on the list

Gotta love a bit of Cardboard Aided Design

Transferred onto sheet


Tried for fitment


I welded a strip of steel to the lower chassis so I could rivet the panels to it.


Riveted the top of the panels to the bottom of the dash.


One complete unit. It's really stiff when the dash is fitted to the roll cage so I'm happy.


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06-18-2018, 02:27 PM
Got round to finally making the mounts for the passenger seat. Gave them a coat of Matt black. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180618/0cb55d392b9e944681b6c35b309354e1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180618/b7d37d1dc424b2607c39ac86e2537f12.jpg

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06-18-2018, 05:56 PM
Centre console.

I wrapped the battery cover with the same 4d carbon fibre vinyl wrap that the rest of the buggy is wrapped with.

I then set about designing a centre console to mount switches onto, and to hide the wiring for the motors behind.

First I decided what angle I wanted it to sit at and the length

Then cut a rough aluminium template, no cardboard here, precision engineering methinks!!!


Once I was happy with the profile I spent a bit of time transferring the template onto aluminium sheet.

Cut and folded. Not bad for a first attempt


With the obligatory edge trim

Test fitting it onto the battery cover

Vinyl wrapped

Batteries fitted

All back together now. The seat runners secure it all into place.

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06-19-2018, 05:19 AM
I flipped the buggy over!

This was so I could work on a bash guard to cover the brake rotor and chain sprocket.
They poke out past the lower frame rails and any impact would render the drive line inoperable.

I used some 5mm x 50mm aluminium flat bar and rolled to suit the radius of the rotor. Then cut it all to length.

Rivnuts inserted underneath at convenient points


I used the mig welder to stick it all together


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06-19-2018, 10:32 AM
Might build a kids rock crawler.

Three weeks later. Built my kids a rock crawler. Lol

Make all look so easy. Almost wish I was a kid again so I could fit in it. :)

06-19-2018, 11:37 AM
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] I wish it was 3 weeks. Been 4 years part time. But thanks. It's nearing completion

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06-19-2018, 11:59 AM
I dig the bash guard! i'm going to have to make something similar for mine

06-21-2018, 05:15 AM
Latest update. Seats are refitted after being painted black. Gonna start stripping it all down soon to paint the roll cage.

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06-23-2018, 09:52 AM
It's been a very busy week at work so not much done, apart from painting the steering wheel boss black, but no pics.
I did manage to bend the steering cable brackets though [emoji853].
New ones inboundhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180623/178b159cad53fe505238e3045da36bcf.jpg

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06-27-2018, 06:05 PM
Right, so I think I'm gonna have to go back to the drawing board with the steering.
I remade the cable clamp brackets and they are solid. What I'm getting now is a lot of cable stretch and the outer cables compressing.


I'm considering ditching the cables and running solid bars with bell cranks as per my original thoughts.

If anyone has any constructive input, please feel free to chime in. The steering needs to be 100% before I move onto the drive motors.

On another note I fitted some more lights to the buggy. I wanted them in the front to replace the little round one's but they are slightly too big so I whacked them on the roof.


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06-27-2018, 11:16 PM
Bell crank or hydraulics. Even push pull cables are only good to ~80lbs reliably.

07-03-2018, 02:17 PM
ditto plk, but rods n bellcrank to the back end seems a nightmare layout. I'd go hyd with mini rams or linear motion actuator type setup. Cable even in normal applications can turn into a continual maintenance headache--for steering, i personally wouldn't go down that path.

07-05-2018, 07:34 PM
Cheers guys. I see where you are coming from, but a separate power supply to run a hydraulic pump or linear actuator seems like just as much of a headache. I'm gonna go with the rods and bell crank. I just need to design an efficient way to package them.

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