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View Full Version : 2006 zx1000, can't keep it cool...?



brooksie2113
03-16-2016, 01:41 AM
2core civic rad, 12"fan with tight fitting shroud. Will overheat after a period of time. Not sure why. Let it idol with cap off, I see water moving. Checked plumbing everything seems right. I found no bleeder for air on the top end... someone mentioned to check for that .. went to all AN fittings and hoses...

from reading sometimes a cracked head or bad head gasket could cause overheating issues... how do I check for these problems myself? Thanks.

makenzie71
03-16-2016, 01:49 AM
If you're not spewing coolant out the radiator then you're not absorbing combustion gasses...which really would eliminate that as a likely possibility for overheating.

A bad head gasket may also just leak into the oil passages, but it will cause coolant loss, thus overheating from that angle, but you'll notice missing coolant and extra milky, nasty smelling oil.

Is the radiator cap the highest point in the system?

Does the fan ever trigger to come on?

When it's overheating, is the radiator hot?

brooksie2113
03-16-2016, 10:29 AM
If you're not spewing coolant out the radiator then you're not absorbing combustion gasses...which really would eliminate that as a likely possibility for overheating.

A bad head gasket may also just leak into the oil passages, but it will cause coolant loss, thus overheating from that angle, but you'll notice missing coolant and extra milky, nasty smelling oil.

Is the radiator cap the highest point in the system?

Does the fan ever trigger to come on?

When it's overheating, is the radiator hot?



The fan is wired always on when ignition is on. Oil is always in great shape. Rad cap and resiv. Cap are on same plane at highest
Level of system.

CARLRIDDLE
03-16-2016, 10:32 AM
May still have air trapped, esp behind T-stat. Remove and try wo if ya can or drill a hole in the stat. If stat is original it may be bad and not opening. But my next concern would be rad is not big enough.

makenzie71
03-16-2016, 12:07 PM
When it's overheating, is th radiator hot?

How hot are you calling "overheating"?

LIDUNO
03-16-2016, 12:21 PM
Whats the temp? Is the cap holding pressure?

It's the caps job to regulate when coolant is released into the overflow and retrieved from the overflow. If the cap is bad it can release too soon or too late and may not be able to retrieve coolant when needed.

Another thing to check, is that the overflow tube is hooked up to the proper port on the radiator. Some radiators will have more than one port, you want to use the port that is controlled by the cap.

Make sure the overflow tube from the radiator is attached to the bottom of the overflow bottle, it needs to be able to retrieve the coolant from the overflow bottle as the temp goes down.

jaywebguy
03-16-2016, 02:11 PM
When you say overheat, what are the temps you are seeing? These bike motors like to run hot.

brooksie2113
03-17-2016, 12:25 AM
It could be original!! I never replaced it. I will order a new one now just for funzies.

brooksie2113
03-17-2016, 12:29 AM
The gauge cluster is reading at 220, I consider 220 hot... and it will easily climb from 220 to 230. At 225 I go neutral where she stands and let it cool down. The rad is HOT. The air the fan is moving is hot also! It seems to be pulling heat from the system. My current thought is not enough volume, an in line cube shape tank with some alumn fins holding.... a gal? That shouldn't reduce flow or put more strain on the pump...? Or would it?thoughts?

brooksie2113
03-17-2016, 12:35 AM
I can't seem to upload any pictures I have taken, but if you look on my instagram brooksie2113. There are complete pictures of the build, shroud, AN hose work..

brooksie2113
03-17-2016, 12:42 AM
Here we go

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/cooling/34808d1458196904-2006-zx1000-cant-keep-cool-2016-03-16-21.41.06.png

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/cooling/34807d1458196885-2006-zx1000-cant-keep-cool-2016-03-16-21.40.40.png

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/cooling/34806d1458196864-2006-zx1000-cant-keep-cool-2016-03-16-21.39.55.png

makenzie71
03-17-2016, 01:28 AM
First, the cap is not the highest point. That black elbow off the top is. That's going to be pretty hard to bleed off any excess pressure.

Second, that little nipple off the side of the filler neck...that's suppose to go to your coolant reservoir. That thing should be spitting coolant any time you build heat.

Also, 220 is a tad high, but the Z1000 doesn't even kick the fan on until 210. You're not really in danger until you're over 250. Normal run temps should be 180~215.

CARLRIDDLE
03-17-2016, 11:03 AM
Yeah if your not spewing coolant out that nipple or overflow bottle then not hot. Hook that line off nipple and after a few heat cycles hopefully it will remove air from rad.

makenzie71
03-17-2016, 12:28 PM
I bet if he's been running it like that for a long enough time he can be getting plenty hot without water coming out of that nipple. I imagine there's a huge air bubble in there that's compressing far more than enough to keep the coolant flow from moving properly and prevent venting.

LIDUNO
03-17-2016, 08:06 PM
Like others have mentioned, 220 is fine. I would say anything under235 is no problem at all.

Again, like others have mentioned, the port under the cap is the one that should go to the over flow.

And I agree, there could very well be some air in that top elbow.

A few more things to check, make sure the fan is blowing in the right direction and make sure your cap is working. I think it's supposed to hold about 15 or 16 pounds of pressure.

Lug-Nuts
03-18-2016, 11:07 PM
If that black elbow is causing your problems why not go to a different style radiator with the neck in front instead of on top. The one in this link is only 56.00 all aluminum.

http://www.protuninglab.com/ra-hc92-42-2.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=140852202778

makenzie71
03-19-2016, 12:56 AM
^They're only $60 shipped on eBay and come with a fan. That won't help him, though. Would make it better, but not solve the problem. Heeds a "T" at the top of that eblow with a fitting he can open up to fill the system. He doesn't have to make a drastic change, he just needs to be able to fill it from the highest point.

brooksie2113
03-20-2016, 02:06 AM
I'm going to cut the tanks off the rad, and make new ones,weld the bung son the side and have the cap the highest point. The tank sides will be 3"tall, compared to 1.25 now. More volume, and the orientation will be correct. I'll Google how to test the cap.

makenzie71
03-20-2016, 02:17 AM
I'm going to cut the tanks off the rad, and make new ones,weld the bung son the side and have the cap the highest point. The tank sides will be 3"tall, compared to 1.25 now. More volume, and the orientation will be correct. I'll Google how to test the cap.

man that seems like a hell of a lot of effort for something that only requires you to warm up the engine and break this fitting open to burp it (plus getting an actual reservoir setup).

http://i.imgur.com/FW4lC7f.png

brooksie2113
03-24-2016, 05:24 PM
The nipple below the cap is hooked to the res. On the left side of the assembly. It has been, in the picture all the hoses are not all hooked up in this picture. Found it on in stag ram to show setup. But it hasn't seemed to fix the problem, I feel like if there were no air bubble when I open the rad cap the head pressure from the top 90*fitting would spew coolant out the cap till pressure is equilized...? I could buy a t. I just think the best way would be to have the fittings off the inner face of the rad. Not up high and out of place.

makenzie71
03-24-2016, 09:26 PM
Having all the fittings low will help but you're not going to completely solve your problem until your filler cap is the highest point in the system. With the fittings lower, but your filler cap still there, there will still be a noticeable amount of air in the radiator.

The best solution I see is to put a hose filler (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63745?seid=srese1&gclid=CO2Ck4Cv2ssCFdNahgodpKwNhA) in the hose at the highest point. No need to change anything else.

CARLRIDDLE
03-25-2016, 11:36 AM
You could take rad loose and tip it to birp air from that top hose, but probably still have some and would likely come back.

Rat4020
03-25-2016, 06:55 PM
Having all the fittings low will help but you're not going to completely solve your problem until your filler cap is the highest point in the system. With the fittings lower, but your filler cap still there, there will still be a noticeable amount of air in the radiator.

The best solution I see is to put a hose filler (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63745?seid=srese1&gclid=CO2Ck4Cv2ssCFdNahgodpKwNhA) in the hose at the highest point. No need to change anything else.



Thats the ticket man and a cheap fix

Hambam
03-26-2016, 02:29 AM
Where are you running it? Desert or snow will make a difference. Also, does it get hotter when you drive it hard vs idle for 10 mins

BorntoBraaap
03-28-2016, 06:51 PM
Also it might help to remove the bottle-neck in pic two coming out of the engine. It looks like you reduced the diameter of the hose there? This makes the pump struggle and cuts the gph down.

makenzie71
03-28-2016, 07:06 PM
^I didn't even notice that, but it's hard to see exactly what's going on there. If it's reduced from the block side then yeah that definitely needs to go.