View Full Version : Bearing carrier

12-09-2015, 09:35 PM
Can someone help me on disassembling my bearing carrier? I don't recognize this as a nut, I'm assuming it is something threaded but I don't want to do something that may screw it up. Seems very tight

Photo to come, having a hard time using the app on the phone
http://<a href=http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/kumatoo/media/TAJLY0AIEH/20151209_190142_zps8vqeffuw.jpg.html target=_blank>[IMG]http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z339/kumatoo/TAJLY0AIEH/20151209_190142_zps8vqeffuw.jpg

12-09-2015, 09:41 PM
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z339/kumatoo/TAJLY0AIEH/20151209_190142_zps8vqeffuw.jpg (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/kumatoo/media/TAJLY0AIEH/20151209_190142_zps8vqeffuw.jpg.html)

sorry if it's a little over sized photo

12-09-2015, 11:35 PM
That's looks like a splined shaft.
Was there a nut and large washer over it?
Is that the inner CV cup?
Wait you have Yokes correct?
So it would be a CV cup with a Bolted on Yoke.

Looks like you need a puller.

Can you get a bigger picture of the setup.

12-10-2015, 12:05 AM
There is probably a bolt running through the entire assembly.

I used loctite 648 on one cup so the splined shaft stays with that one cup. It helped cut down on any chance of the cup wobbling and chewing on the shaft.

It could be tight on the bearing too. In that case, the puller will just push the shaft out.

12-10-2015, 01:22 AM
You might need to use a puller to get it off. Does the other side look the same?

12-10-2015, 02:31 AM
That's the inner CV cup at the Spool. I thought you meant the bearing carrier on the trailing arms.

If you don't already have a decent puller then you'll need to make a Puller. First off, spray some liquid wrench on it to help out.
Cheap puller usually don't work well and can often break. You can probably make one with scrap parts and it be stronger then a store bought one.
Being that it's a cv cup, it should be fairly easy to make a puller.
I'd use a 3/8" flat bar about 1-1.5" wide cut the length to sit on top across the cv. 1/4" may do.
Drill 2 holes on the ends of the flat bar matching 2 holes across from each other on the cv cup. The holes need to be big enough for the CV cup bolts to slide through.
Then you need a hole in the center of the flat bar, 5/8 should be good. Weld a 5/8 nut over the center hole.
Place the puller on the CV and bolt it down with 2 bolts onto the cup.
Use a fairly good length 5/8 all threaded bolt in the center hole and start cranking it down.
As you screw in the 5/8 bolt and it rests against the bolt coming out of the shaft, the puller bar will begin to pull the cup off the splined shaft from the 2 bolts on each end of the puller.
You may need to use an impact to get it to break free.

I hope this makes sense.
If not I can draw you a pic when I get a chance or feel free to send me a text.

12-10-2015, 07:20 AM
If ya dont have a puller (you should just buy one for Christmas) a few smacks with a rubber mallet will usually break mine loose. I run green locktite on splines.

12-10-2015, 03:28 PM
Yes, this is the spool not the training arms.
There was a large washer and nut, I expected when I had that off the bolt would come out but I can't even turn it.
My intention was just to take it apart, possibly replace the bearings and see how it goes together. I like to be familiar with my stuff so I can trouble shoot easier.
If this is the spline from the other side, I'm surprised it protrudes through? Then the strength of the washer, which is cupped, is what holds the 2 ends together, if everything is locktighted together and it is holding solid, I may let the sleeping dog lay there, just keep an eye on the current play and see that it does not increase.

12-10-2015, 03:37 PM
How does the nut and CV star look? Does it look like the Star and nut were getting intimate?

12-10-2015, 05:37 PM
Is the stud lock-tited in?

Shouldn't the flange just pop off the splines at this point?

12-10-2015, 05:52 PM
Depends. Sometimes there is a slight taper cut into the shafts. This would require a puller. Even without the taper, they are a bitch to get off. Eventually the shaft will get a super slight twist that makes it a nightmare to get the cups off. With the plunging shafts on the EBK, the carrier takes a serious beating compared to a setup with an axle that can twist. A good puller should solve this issue in less than 5 minutes but I have a feeling the splines won't look too pretty.

O'Reilly has a decent puller set you can borrow if you don't have one big enough. A good puller is a good tool to invest in though.

12-10-2015, 07:11 PM
Got it, that makes sense.

12-10-2015, 07:44 PM
There is a bolt that goes from one side to the other.
I'm not going to disturb it, the bearings do not feel bad. Just put it back together and keep an eye on it.

I have a feeling this car has not been run too much, I think the dirt tires may be the original ones that were in the EBK thread, it's the car with the 2 HIDs mounted on the front of the cage. The sand tires were bought by the guy I got the car from, he said he had not run it much. Also, looking at the leading edge of the A arms, I don't see any rock chips like I would expect to see if it were raced, no apparent damage like rock chips or dents to the skid plate either.

12-10-2015, 07:46 PM
You should have posted a pic of both sides.

12-11-2015, 02:24 PM
the other side looks pretty much the same only you can just see the big ass fender washer and bolt head

12-12-2015, 11:51 AM
I'd say that it's a threaded nipple in the splined shaft and that it most likely doesn't go all the way through to the other side.

Flyer, it doesn't have a Star because it's not running the CV's just the cups. The welded yoke flange is bolted to the CV cup.

Kuma, get a puller or make one just to keep in your tool box when your out in the dirt. Don't use the Harbor Freight puller, they have a tendency to break.
If you don't have a welder then I should have enough scrap in my shop to make you one, no charge
Your close enough that it would be cheap to just ship it to you it you probably wouldn't get it till Wed. Thurs.
I'll touch base with you tomorrow.

Aside from that, how do you like the performance with the 750cc? Does it feel like it's just enough engine or like it needs more hp?

12-12-2015, 07:38 PM
I've made pullers like this, but a little easier, quicker, stronger. Use TWO pieces of flat bar, parallel, across the face of "CV" cup, perpendicular to the two cup bolts that are across from each other (flat face of the flat bar against each side of the cup bolts). Space them 5/8" apart and weld a tight, thick 5/8" washer in the middle to each of the flat bars. Weld a 5/8" nut to the washer (I like to use fine thread nut/bolt). You don't have to weld the nut on if you use a wrench to keep it from turning while pulling. Now you have slotted puller. Use good washers and longer bolts (bolts need to be as long as the flat bar is wide plus enough to thread into the cups plus washers) and bolt the puller to the "CV" cup, thread in the all thread bolt in the center and pull. No precision measuring or cutting, throw it together in 15 min. Somewhat universal for multiple pulling jobs.