View Full Version : Kuma's EBK

10-27-2015, 03:06 PM
I picked up this car a couple months ago and have been making a few changes that have been taking my time, biggest one is a new cooling system, the previous owner moved the radiator from above his head down next to the engine, no air flow and fan on all the time, also blocks access to the engine. my plan is to run this car this year, then next summer I would like a bigger engine so more cooling was in order.

I got a big radiator, it's 3 core and 35" X 11", I moved it to the back to make it some what of a wing. second change was to the air box, I am mainly a sand guy, the stock filter just does not seem adequate so I retained the stock airbox, I figure the engineers at Suzuki made it the size it is for a reason, no need to reinvent, just make it better!
I added 2 TRX250R UNI filters to the inlets of the airbox, used some ABS 45 degree pipe fittings, formed them using boiling water, made some flanges, some screws, ABS cement and done. I also have some of those adaptors being made using a 3D printer.
I'll post some photos later, if interest I'll see how much the guy wants to make more.

So anyway, first trip out to Glamis, after the first minute of blasting up and down the wash, it seemed that the Trans was gone, just gone? engine seemed fine, scratch my head for a bit, started pulling bolts out of the clutch cover, then it dawned on me, check the simplest thing first, well that was it, they put a hydraulic clutch actuator on it, one end is bolted to the frame and put it in a bind preventing the clutch from returning.
Fixed, well at least it's better.

then, blasting the wash some more, there is a mis in the engine, not sure if it's a short or what also the starter keeps engaging, not sure if that is the one way bearing going out or if it's electrical.

Parked it and run the old reliable pilot for the rest of the weekend, well it did have one issue, but that's another story.

Sorry if this is a bit long winded, I'll be working on those things and plan to hit Dumont the weekend before thanksgiving.

10-27-2015, 03:34 PM
Can we get some pics, most of us here are more visual than literal:D

10-27-2015, 03:59 PM
I refuse to read that many words without pics..lol

10-27-2015, 05:30 PM
What am literal means?

10-27-2015, 05:36 PM
What am literal means?

Doesn't that mean you're a Hillary supporter? [smilie=biggrin.gif]

10-27-2015, 06:26 PM
I refuse to read that many words without pics..lol

I'm with U no Picts I can't read

10-27-2015, 06:30 PM
It meens wee need picture thingees to lewk attttttt:cool:

10-27-2015, 07:28 PM
so, what are you trying to say?[smilie=moon.gif]

10-27-2015, 07:49 PM
this picture thingee is tougher than I thought, I can't seem to upload, first the picture was too big, then after resizing just said it failed:mad:
now to try photo bucket

10-27-2015, 07:52 PM


10-27-2015, 07:54 PM
these are the 3D printed version, when I get home I'll take a picture of the airbox setup

10-27-2015, 07:58 PM
these were sent to me, that's not my hand, once I have it in my hand I'll try it on the airbox to see how it fits.
and here is another picture for you...

10-27-2015, 10:32 PM
Here is the airbox on the car, I didn't get very simetricle but it works

10-27-2015, 10:35 PM

10-27-2015, 10:37 PM
And one of the radiator

10-27-2015, 10:48 PM
I'm planning to put some body work on the side of the radiator/wing to the frame but going to wait until I'm satisfied field that I don't need to tilt it up more in the air flow

10-28-2015, 06:24 AM
Those hydrolic clutch slaves dont like heat. Run it til its hot or you feel slippage and jump out and see if there is any free play on the clutch arm. Doesnt take but a little pull tension to slip the clutch.

10-28-2015, 07:57 AM
Ya PhotoBuget is the only way I found to post picts here all I can say bout bucket is that'' well'' it works . You should put some outerwears on the Uni filters or at least some nylons . I like the intake boots you made very nice

10-28-2015, 09:25 AM
The UNIs have filter skins on them, they work great! it's a stretch type material that you can oil up with K&N oil, they will get very dirty and clog but pull them off and the filter under is like new, I use them in conjunction with UNIs on all my machines

10-28-2015, 10:44 AM
The UNIs have filter skins on them, they work great! it's a stretch type material that you can oil up with K&N oil, they will get very dirty and clog but pull them off and the filter under is like new, I use them in conjunction with UNIs on all my machines

10-40 on da skinz .. it was hard to see with my 7 year old laptop and my 53 year old eyez that early in the morn :D
Jersdunz brought me a pac of walmart nylons for mine . I put them over my K-N and put the outerwear over that .. Works real swell . I think he likes buyin nylons LOL[smilie=blink.gif]

10-28-2015, 11:20 AM
Jersdunz brought me a pac of walmart nylons for mine . I put them over my K-N and put the outerwear over that .. Works real swell . I think he likes buyin nylons LOL[smilie=blink.gif]As long as he's not wearing them around the campfire at Ocotillo/Glamis, all is good. - or at least keep sweat pants over them so we can't see it...

Sure he's not using them to go hold up the local 7-11?

10-28-2015, 11:29 AM
Such a cool car!

Im no clutch expert but it seems like having one end of the slave mounted to the frame is not the hot setup. How did you fix it?

10-28-2015, 01:28 PM
Well at least your getting he kinks out of the car. Once its running good, should be a blast to drive.

10-28-2015, 02:37 PM
Such a cool car!

Im no clutch expert but it seems like having one end of the slave mounted to the frame is not the hot setup. How did you fix it?

I just did a bandaid fix out at the dunes, first step, loosened it and it freed up, next see how much bind it had just sitting without being hooked up, next filed the mounting point of the slave so it at least points at the clutch lever better, I have to look it over to see how I can mount a pivot on the rear.

priority now is fix the starter and see if that in turn fixes the miss, seems like separate issues:mad:

10-28-2015, 02:42 PM
Well at least your getting he kinks out of the car. Once its running good, should be a blast to drive.

I've also got to look into rigging some sort of reverse, thinking of using the high torque starter method, does anyone have any links to a thread?

I had a harbor freight wench setup in my trailer to pull it in backwards so I could drive it out, it worked well for loading it in at home, second time I used it, the cable jumped the real and wound its self around the shaft, stuck real good

10-30-2015, 02:52 PM
picked up a flywheel on ebay, does anyone know if the mini starters advertised as 3HP are actually 3 HP and are any good or not? they are around $75
Also, I'm searching, but if you know of a link to using a starter for reverse, please feel free to post the link.

10-30-2015, 03:01 PM
Make sure it is a gear reduction starter. They are rated at peak power, which is usually close to their peak speed. They won't put out 3 hp from a standstill, but they will put out full torque, which is probably more important anyways.

I have a Chrysler gear reduction starter at home from a v8 Dakota that fits the Chevy flywheel. It is supposed to be fairly good for that application, but you cant expect it to back you up a steep hill.

11-02-2015, 03:22 PM
:mad:Oh the joys of chasing wiring issues
thinking that the starter oneway bearing is going away, started the car and with the starter disconnected from the starter relay, for what ever reason, while idling the relay kept energizing on and off, now I think that may have heated the one way gear causing the starter to catch because I didn't notice the starter engaging now, now another issue, it idles fine, touch the throttle and the engine dies.
I'm checking into the wiring, from the gauge cluster back, so far I have located 2 broken wires and will be making my own extensions getting rid of all crimp connections.

11-24-2015, 03:57 PM
Here's my update:
rewires the jumper for the instrument cluster, it was a mess, speaker wire crimp connectors, 1/2 were broken, after rewiring, turn the key and the cluster works, well sort of, I did not have the ignition powered or grounded, once I grounded the ECU, no more cluster, just the backlight, after some screwing around with diodes trying to isolate what was happening, I just removed the cluster, nice to have a tach, but I can shift without and hopefully the rev limiter works.
There were some other interesting wiring finds, all seems good, I'll be taking it to Glamis next weekend.
Also changed the gearing, it had 17 tooth countershaft and 60 in the rear, just the little bit that I ran it, I was only able to rev it out in 1st and 2nd. put a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket on and hope it's closer to what I'd expect.

01-06-2016, 02:54 PM
from the last post in this thread, that next trip got out just past olds at Glamis and found that the clutch was slipping, good news was that the gearing now seems to be about right.

New Years Glamis trip, new Barnett carbon clutch with extra disk seems to have done the trick, did not drive it a lot but was able to make a run from end to end and back, the and back is the key, no issues[smilie=ext_hooray.:

01-06-2016, 03:09 PM
Congrats Kuma, cool car for sure.

01-07-2016, 06:14 PM
Able to get any video?

09-21-2016, 07:33 PM
Update on the car, I picked up an '07 busa motor with low miles, it is mounted in the car now, getting an exhaust built, I need to setup the throttle and shifter linkage, wiring and air box.
want to have it ready for Glamis but I'm beginning to panic, I run into little problems that seem to take much longer than they should to work out.

Anyone have experience with the bust hydraulic clutch? the one that I have was broken at some time and welded, I'm assuming this was because the master cylinder was too big and it just acted as a hydraulic jack, I think my master cylinder is a 3/4" CNC, is that too big or is there a modification used to limit the volume of fluid going to the slave?

Buggy Builder
09-22-2016, 01:53 AM
You need an adjustable stop on the clutch pedal. Limit the stroke of the master cylinder and you limit the stroke of the slave cylinder.

09-23-2016, 12:27 AM
I put a spacer and a jam nut under the rubber bellow to limit master cylinder travel. I used a 5/8 Mc to give the clutch slightly better feel.

09-26-2016, 07:44 PM
Thanks for the tips, I consider one or combination of both of these suggestions.

Any suggestions on shifter linkage, I'm trying to figure a way of adding an extra link in the setup that was on the car for the 750 engine, now I'm thinking on some how hybridizing adding a cable but not sure how that will hookup to the shifter, suggestions, pictures?

09-26-2016, 07:53 PM
Theres also a clutch slave saver for the busa. Reccommend!!

09-27-2016, 07:17 PM
If your mean the stock hydraulic clutch slave cylinder, that has the rod that actually moves the clutch, I have that.

09-27-2016, 08:01 PM

09-27-2016, 09:01 PM
That part keeps the cylinder from breaking off if the master pushes too hard,

I would still run a limit of sorts.

04-24-2017, 12:05 AM
I know how you guys don't like reading, here are 3 videos, suspension on the EBK a couple years ago.
I welcome comments, then I'll pipe in, 'nuff said.




04-28-2017, 07:09 PM
No suspension experts here? okay, here is what I see, the rear suspension seams to spend too much time at or near full compression, not sure if that is just from a combination of going round a bowl, body roll and acceleration but it does not seem right to me, I can't tell if the main spring is ever coming into play by itself or do I just need stiffer springs, I'm going through the spring rate sticky but all the math makes my head hurt.

04-28-2017, 08:41 PM
Sorry dude, far from an expert here.

But , yup, back looks soft.

05-06-2017, 06:45 PM
Back does look a bit soft - where are your cross over collars set so the main spring takes over? Doesn't seem like I ever see the tender spring lock into place. Moving the collars down a bit should also help with body roll.

We need an expert here - hey bdk, thoughts?

05-08-2017, 07:37 PM
Ya, I don't see that it ever transfers onto the main spring either, IU need to get this sorted out without spending too much extra cash, if I run the numbers on a suspension spring calculator I see that I need something much stiffer but to me it doesn't seem like it could be that far off???
the other thing is the valving, there is valving in the coil over as well as the bypass, not sure but maybe too I need to lighten up the valving in the coil over or remove all the discs and just go with the bypass, then maybe I'd be able to feel more effect in making adjustments?

Currently the rear springs are 12" 150# on the bottom and 10" 150# on top, the length of the swing arm is 26" and the coil over is locates at 18.5" and it's about 25 degrees, unsprung weight is 70#

05-09-2017, 02:24 AM
Move your front preload rings down, or move The cross over up. The front is always on the main spring, you should be into the travel at least 2-3 inches before you hit the cross over.

Couldn't tell much about the rear valving, springs are soft, so crank down the preload and cross over rings to keep the shocks from nearly bottomed out. The bypass is is the stiff zone half of the time.

05-09-2017, 07:17 PM
the rear is where I think the biggest issue is.
I found this spring rate calculator online http://f-o-a.com/foa-suspension-calculator/
I have not weighed the car but from one of the other posts of a similar car I come up with a rear corner weight of 410# -70# (unsprung weight) add 30# for 1/2 of approximately 10 gallons of gas which is right over the rear axle, and add another 45# for splitting my weight by 4 plus a few for the extra engine weight and I come up with 415#, plug that into the calculator with 50% droop, not sure if that is right or should I shoot for something else?, It comes up with a overall spring rate of 142#/inch, and a 355#/inch and 257#/inch for springs, with my current dual springs it is at 75#/inch, could it be off by that much???

05-11-2017, 11:59 PM
You can calc the approximate weight of the corners by measuring the free and compressed length of the springs, then factor in the shock angles.

The combined rate from the calc is close to your single spring rate. You might try lowering the cross over collar and see how it feels with a single spring. It is going to coil bind if you run it hard though.

05-15-2017, 07:35 PM
So, I actually went to King and talked to one of the guys, I assume he knows what he was talking about but I’m not so sure?
He asked about how much preload in the springs to get the ride height, the guide line they use is 1 to 3”, I measured and If I understood what he was talking about, I’m at 1.5” sounds perfect right? It just seems too soft in the back especially seeing the video. I found a off road spring calculator on line and according to that I’m about of where it should be, so who do you believe, I don’t want to dump $300 into a set of springs if not going to work. When I described the video and the the way the rear spring was fully compressed in the bowl, he said it needs more compression valving? To me the valving just controls the speed that the spring can move not how far it moves.
I also had the question on how much the pressure in the shocks effect the spring rate, ride height ect. With 150 psi in 2 shocks that amounts to 132 lbs that if I were to subtract that from the corner sprung weight of 410# that would probably make the current spring rate about right, right?
Confused??? Me too.

03-05-2018, 05:01 AM
had a great weekend at Glamis, love the off weekends, this was weekend after Prez day