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adamphillip
08-07-2015, 02:15 PM
soo over here in the UK there is the SxS championships and we're basically running XP-1000s' and S-900s' and I was wondering other than engine mods what could I do to one to make it race ready for minimal cost

JD66
08-07-2015, 02:20 PM
In stock form, the rear end on the RZRs like to buck. I don't know details, but a lot of guys will make changes to the rear shocks/coils. I've seen numerous videos online of rzrs going for a nose dive off a jump :eek:

K-fab
08-07-2015, 03:41 PM
adamphillip! Long time no see. Welcome back.

Okay, so I can't speak for anything other than the XP900 but here it goes:

The stock shock springs and valving SUCK!!! OMG it sucks! What Polaris was thinking is beyond me. I get the feeling the went to Fox and said "We need shocks" and Fox said okay, here they are with the standard 60/40 setup. It's WAAAAAAAYYYYY wrong.

Polaris also used progressively wound springs. That sucks too. It gets stiffer in a rising rate, and coupled with the suck-arse valving, the rebound of the XP's suspension is wicked bad.

It's funny that 90% of the 900 owners cry about spending 2K on a new set of "better" shocks when they already have extremely good shocks on the ride. A full spring and revalve kit is in the 700 buck range and works just as well as the replacement bolt on units.

I dropped the spring rates all around, went to dual rates on the back and single rates on the front. I revalved the shocks (and have done two other peoples' and will be doing another next Thursday) with Exit's Stage III kit (springs and valving) and it's a night and day difference.

Don't screw with engine mods - you won't be using all the HP and the 900 can't even put down what it has well w/o the suspension work. A well sprung, totally stock engine XP will walk a high HP XP with stock suspension. If you can't put the power down, adding more just makes it worse. Suspension work is less expensive than engine work too.

If you MUST play with the power plant, start out by tuning the clutches. That will "give you more hp" than any other mod, bang for the buck wise.

Also, once again, speaking XP900, don't screw with the stock exhaust system - 90% of the aftermarket systems actually hurt hp. The SLP (aftermarket offered by Polaris) muffler is probably the best on the market, once again, bang for the buck wise. It's slightly louder than stock and does help - adds a couple horsies.

Once you do get the suspension dialed in, adding Polaris's HO kit will help with power. It gives you a little more across the board and comes out of the hole a bit better. It's also proven extremely reliable.

There's a great debate about who makes the best filtration system. It tends to be one of the more open issues. Some work (more hp), but have sealing issues. Some do better at filtration (the UMP system) but loose a couple of hp. There's one system out there that has proven dyno charts - from a secondary source (Alba Racing) that's shown to increase HP by 3-4 AND do a phenomenal job of filtration. I can't recall the brand...

For the record, this info comes from personal experience:
XP1 (mine) - Exit Stage III suspension (springs, valving, one extra rebound shim in the rear)
Polaris HO engine kit (cams, valve springs, ECU tuning) SLP muffler
Alba Clutch tuning kit
UMP air filter kit (one day to be switched to the brand I can't remember)

XP2 (her's) - Exit Stage III suspension (springs, valving, one extra rebound shim in the rear)
One day the UMP air filter kit (when I get the brand I can't recall for XP1).


----------------

As far as making one "race ready", get the rules book and study. I'd be changing out the cage immediately, as the stockers are flexy-fliers. Get seats that hold you in, a quality 5 point harness and what ever else the rules say you need.

flyerrider
08-07-2015, 04:24 PM
To add to what K said, all of that plus the RZR will run you at least 20K

XP900: 11-15K used
Cage: 2.5K
Shock tuning: $700-1000
Seats: $400-1000
Belts: $250

That's the absolute bare minimum to go race here in the states providing you will be buying the cage. I have a couple friends that race RZRs in the Lucas Series and both have around 45K into their cars. That's WITH sponsors too. Oh and that's US dollars and US pricing so divide by 1.55 to get to GBP. Unfortunately there is your crazy VAT on top of it all and everything seems more expensive there due to the import costs.

adamphillip
08-07-2015, 05:50 PM
Here the only modification you NEED to race is a external cutoff switch and 4 point seatbelts so the first thing I'll need to do as an extra is the revalving of the shocks and change the springs then

nutz4sand
08-07-2015, 06:02 PM
And a machine gun.....[smilie=ext_crutch.:

adamphillip
08-07-2015, 06:28 PM
And a machine gun.....[smilie=ext_crutch.:

Hello nutz, nice to see you too:p

adamphillip
08-07-2015, 07:42 PM
Don't screw with engine mods - you won't be using all the HP and the 900 can't even put down what it has well w/o the suspension work. A well sprung, totally stock engine XP will walk a high HP XP with stock suspension. If you can't put the power down, adding more just makes it worse. Suspension work is less expensive than engine work too.

If you MUST play with the power plant, start out by tuning the clutches. That will "give you more hp" than any other mod, bang for the buck wise.

yeah can't fiddle with the engine other than ECU as it's against the championship rules, only other rules are 4 point harness minimum, fire extinguisher, full lower doors and secondary cutoff switch

also I'm looking at the XP-1000 range
championship website http://sxsracing.co.uk/

flyerrider
08-08-2015, 04:14 AM
I know you are young so I will say that the ONE thing to ask yourself is if this is something you can afford to do. Racing is expensive. The car is the cheap part. Then comes prep, repairs, modifications, updates to class rules, etc etc. I tried racing knowing what I was getting into but without being realistic about the expenses involved once my truck was done. I spent too long and too much money trying to do it when I should have been focusing on school. I became a slave to it. Even today after having a good career that allows me to spend pretty good money on my projects I am still very gaurded about racing. I've been on race teams. I've owned race cars. I know the expenses that go into it. I'm not trying to sway your desire but I wouldn't even think of racing something that wasn't bought and paid for with cold hard cash with a minimum of 25% of the vehicle purchase price set aside PER RACE SEASON for maintenance and repairs. My friends last UTV race lasted less than 3 minutes and cost him $6500 in repairs.

The absolute best advice anyone will give you is to go to the races and start hanging out in the pits. Then maybe become a course worker. That will get you involved with the scene and people will start to get to know you. Be polite, courteous, bend over backwards to help people in need, and earn your way into being a right seater. Then, if you're lucky, there is a chance someone will let you drive for them. That is hands down the BEST way to go racing. I've always said the only thing better than owning a race car is driving someone else's.

adamphillip
08-08-2015, 07:21 AM
The absolute best advice anyone will give you is to go to the races and start hanging out in the pits. Then maybe become a course worker. That will get you involved with the scene and people will start to get to know you. Be polite, courteous, bend over backwards to help people in need, and earn your way into being a right seater. Then, if you're lucky, there is a chance someone will let you drive for them. That is hands down the BEST way to go racing. I've always said the only thing better than owning a race car is driving someone else's.

fair enough, that was the general intention but I am also planning ahead to when I can afford to run my own RZR

Xbird
08-08-2015, 10:01 AM
Very sage advice from flyerrider. If you're intent on racing your own ride, buy a used, under-powered sxs that meets the rules and run it as is. Forget any hope of winning for a few seasons and just learn what racing is really about. Your cheaper, underpowered ride will give you better finishing results than a lot of the built rides you go against. Right now, a friend of mine is sitting 3rd out of 19 in points with a bone stock Teryx just because he doesn't have a pile of extra power or suspension travel making him push it into the high risk zone of driving. He wants me to mod it this winter, I told him to forget it, why mess with success?
I get away with racing the way i do because there's no formal class rules for SxS in our club, it's pretty much run what you brung so i can run my single seat homebuilt and nobody says boo. Of course, i'm up against everything from stock to modded to the hilt rides, but i enjoy the challenge. My repairs are cheaper than the razrs but take more time.

Razrs and can ams are really NOT designed for racing. Even at some of the milder XC races around me, they get torn up way too easily with the costs of repairs in the hundreds to thousands each time. The more money you dump in, the more it costs to fix it, at an exponential rate.

Last race, only 2 out of 9 of us survived the course undamaged (my breakdown was actually just a freak occurrence of a design flaw in during which nothing actually broke) of those, I'll bet half won't make the final race next month because they can't afford to fix all those lovely shiny aftermarket parts they ripped off of them ....

adamphillip
08-08-2015, 10:38 AM
sadly all racing events have formal classes over here, and to do dirt racing you ether need a RZR or can-am or Rage buggy

Wheels
08-08-2015, 04:10 PM
adamphillip! Long time no see. Welcome back.

Okay, so I can't speak for anything other than the XP900 but here it goes:

The stock shock springs and valving SUCK!!! OMG it sucks! What Polaris was thinking is beyond me. I get the feeling the went to Fox and said "We need shocks" and Fox said okay, here they are with the standard 60/40 setup. It's WAAAAAAAYYYYY wrong.

Polaris also used progressively wound springs. That sucks too. It gets stiffer in a rising rate, and coupled with the suck-arse valving, the rebound of the XP's suspension is wicked bad.

It's funny that 90% of the 900 owners cry about spending 2K on a new set of "better" shocks when they already have extremely good shocks on the ride. A full spring and revalve kit is in the 700 buck range and works just as well as the replacement bolt on units.

I dropped the spring rates all around, went to dual rates on the back and single rates on the front. I revalved the shocks (and have done two other peoples' and will be doing another next Thursday) with Exit's Stage III kit (springs and valving) and it's a night and day difference.

Don't screw with engine mods - you won't be using all the HP and the 900 can't even put down what it has well w/o the suspension work. A well sprung, totally stock engine XP will walk a high HP XP with stock suspension. If you can't put the power down, adding more just makes it worse. Suspension work is less expensive than engine work too.

If you MUST play with the power plant, start out by tuning the clutches. That will "give you more hp" than any other mod, bang for the buck wise.

Also, once again, speaking XP900, don't screw with the stock exhaust system - 90% of the aftermarket systems actually hurt hp. The SLP (aftermarket offered by Polaris) muffler is probably the best on the market, once again, bang for the buck wise. It's slightly louder than stock and does help - adds a couple horsies.

Once you do get the suspension dialed in, adding Polaris's HO kit will help with power. It gives you a little more across the board and comes out of the hole a bit better. It's also proven extremely reliable.

There's a great debate about who makes the best filtration system. It tends to be one of the more open issues. Some work (more hp), but have sealing issues. Some do better at filtration (the UMP system) but loose a couple of hp. There's one system out there that has proven dyno charts - from a secondary source (Alba Racing) that's shown to increase HP by 3-4 AND do a phenomenal job of filtration. I can't recall the brand...

For the record, this info comes from personal experience:
XP1 (mine) - Exit Stage III suspension (springs, valving, one extra rebound shim in the rear)
Polaris HO engine kit (cams, valve springs, ECU tuning) SLP muffler
Alba Clutch tuning kit
UMP air filter kit (one day to be switched to the brand I can't remember)

XP2 (her's) - Exit Stage III suspension (springs, valving, one extra rebound shim in the rear)
One day the UMP air filter kit (when I get the brand I can't recall for XP1).


----------------

As far as making one "race ready", get the rules book and study. I'd be changing out the cage immediately, as the stockers are flexy-fliers. Get seats that hold you in, a quality 5 point harness and what ever else the rules say you need.


dang... and I was just going to say 'paint it green, will add 5hp'. :D:p seriously, the above is good information from K.

K-fab
08-08-2015, 04:32 PM
Flyer and xbird nailed it too.

Xbird
08-08-2015, 10:16 PM
sadly all racing events have formal classes over here, and to do dirt racing you ether need a RZR or can-am or Rage buggy

Buy a used Razr, kit it for the safety rules and have FUN while racing it. Skip trying to be a hero and winning it all and flushing your money, get in cheap and learn first.

adamphillip
08-08-2015, 10:41 PM
Buy a used Razr, kit it for the safety rules and have FUN while racing it. Skip trying to be a hero and winning it all and flushing your money, get in cheap and learn first.

would if I could but the used market over here is none existent

flyerrider
08-09-2015, 01:26 AM
The only thing to plan for is the 20+K in the bank and that 20k would be much better spent on school. The only thing you are doing with a shoe string budget race team is delaying the start of a career that could potentially allow you to afford what you want to do.

If you want to go racing on 4 wheels, find a 5hp Tony Kart on Craigslist for $900. Karting is much cheaper, faster, much easier to maintain, and just as much fun. After all the off-road racing I have done, my all time favorite racing memory was in a KT100 Kart. Karts will also teach you more about driving in 5 minutes than a RZR will teach you in 5 months.

The other, less responsible, advice I would give you is to go race dirtbikes. Once again, cheaper purchase price, slightly less in maintenance, and WAY more fun than any form of car racing. Once you hit your first triple, no matter how small it is, you'll understand what I'm saying. Some of the best off road drivers there are came from bikes. Cars offer forgiveness in mistakes. Bikes don't and you will pay the consequences for getting it wrong. Because of this, bikes engrain a mindset that is very valuable to have when strapping into a race car.