View Full Version : Shredder 2 build

11-08-2014, 03:11 PM
http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag354/brianskelton77/Mobile%20Uploads/F41E4A8C-D1F4-438C-96F7-CDE95B72B355_zpshmlylqtn.jpgFigured I would just start a build thread.

11-08-2014, 03:16 PM

11-08-2014, 03:18 PM

11-08-2014, 03:24 PM

Haven't finished the trailing arms because I think I'm going to use cv axles and I'm not quite sure how they will fit up.

11-08-2014, 03:53 PM

11-08-2014, 03:53 PM
Went with the spindles in the drawings. We will see how they work. http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag354/brianskelton77/Mobile%20Uploads/CCC585CC-E7B1-439F-99BA-9643F8420223_zpsqijxgfd2.jpg

11-08-2014, 06:04 PM
So I assume if I am going to use cv axles, I need splined hubs? I ask because I already have the keyed hubs sold by ubuildit.

11-08-2014, 07:35 PM
Great progress on the build. If you plan to use rear CV's have a look at what Lug-nuts did, he used CV's from a mid 90's S10 Pickup, the CV's from the front on the 4x4 versions. Also one other fellow doing the exact same thing on a shredder build. My build started out as a shredder, but I decided on a custom design. I used rear trailing arms just like the shredder but I used all 930 style CV's. It is more money to go that route but more versatility with various axle lengths available. With any CV you will need the matching bearing carrier hub, the S10 style works well as Lugs has shown in his build. If you bought the rear hubs from Ubuildit then that won't work for CV's.
Front spindles look good. I ended up using Yamaha YFZ450 (banshee style) spindles, they have brakes and all, easier than fabricating spindles and having to figure out custom front brakes.

11-08-2014, 08:20 PM
Looks like you are progressing well. I am excited to see the progress on this, especially what you decide to do with the rear drive train. since reading the other posts on this site, i have been seriously considering using a system similar to Lug-Nuts set up. I even found one cv shaft and the carrier bearing at the NPS store the other day. I didn't buy them because I am still wavering between using what i have and changing to the CV system.

11-09-2014, 12:43 AM
Im using the spindles from the drawing and they work great. My suggestion is after you get it all put together silicone the open ends of them closed so they dont get filled up with dirt and water. I found that out already.

Any S10 from mid 80's and up will work. I think mine are for a 85.

Inailit glad you found NPS did u find the metal racks on the north side of the building? Im pretty sure I know the cv you are talking about I have eyeballed before as well.

11-12-2014, 07:14 AM
Lugs, I see you used a rear wheel with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Everything I'm seeing shows the s10 with a 5 on 4.75 pattern. I'm having trouble finding wheels with that pattern for atvs and the like. Just trying to find everything before purchasing cv axles and hubs. Also what size wheels did you go with?

11-12-2014, 10:09 AM
I recall reading on here that he used wheel adapters on his buggy, not sure if he used them on the front or the back though.

11-13-2014, 12:12 AM
Wheel adapters on the back, the front are 4 on 4 hubs

11-13-2014, 06:40 PM
I guess my next questions would be:
If I use s10 axles, are there hubs that will fit them that have a 5 on 4.5 pattern or something more common or am I going to also have to buy adapters?

On another note, gonna try to mount the seats today. Some parts came in today.

11-14-2014, 04:46 PM
you could always get the hubs drilled for the pattern you need. There is enough room on there to make the bolt pattern smaller.

11-15-2014, 12:16 PM
Installed the shocks I bought on eBay. I only bought two to see how they would work in the front. Not sure if they are stiff enough for the rear. Also purchased s10 axles from advance auto parts like wschilawski. Found hubs on eBay as well.

11-15-2014, 12:20 PM
Also mounted the seats with a drivers side slider but I removed them before taking a pic so do some more welding.

11-15-2014, 05:52 PM
If you need stiffer springs Im pretty sure speedway motors sells the smaller diameter springs that will fit that shock.

You just need to measure the inner diameter and length.

11-15-2014, 05:52 PM

Mocked up the steering

11-20-2014, 01:44 AM
received the axles and rear hubs today. Time to work on the rear end.

11-22-2014, 03:47 AM
Purchased a plasma today. Hypertherm 30xp. Wish I had bought it much sooner.

11-22-2014, 04:58 PM

Starting the mounting brakets for the hubs.

11-22-2014, 10:14 PM
Looking Good!!! [smilie=thumbs_up.g:

11-23-2014, 03:01 AM
I did the exact same thing with my trailing arms, had those 2 plates lazer cut at a local shop. That middle hole looks big tho? Could it be smaller or were you limited to certain bits/tools?

11-23-2014, 03:02 AM

11-23-2014, 03:05 AM
The hole is a little big because of the hole saw I was limited to. Don't think it will make a difference. I bought a plasma the next day.

11-24-2014, 07:44 PM
All this sprocket and chain info is confusing. Let's say I use a Comet Duster torque converter. The driven pulley has a 1" diameter hole. So I need a 1" shaft to go through that and have my small sprocket on that shaft correct? Let's say I am going to use 12t and 60t sprockets. I cannot find a 12t and a 60t to fit the 1" shaft with the same chain pitch.

11-25-2014, 06:13 PM
Make a flange that is attached to your axle, then bolt up your sprocket to that.

I welded my flange directly to my axle and it works great.

11-26-2014, 12:00 AM
Thank you for replying. That's probably what I'll do. I'm trying a contact at a local atv repair shop next week for Polaris atv clutch and gearbox.

11-26-2014, 10:07 AM
Cool I'd really like to see it happen in a shredder. I Had plans to do the same, but those plans changed when a sled became available, the only issue I can see is that you need to get the gearbox quite close to the engine because of belt lengths, That can be tricky if the engine is a V-twin. Look at getting the gearbox from an older unit, its much smaller and compact.
Also check ebay for the polaris clutch and gearbox, sometimes they go for around $100 each.

11-26-2014, 11:07 AM
All this sprocket and chain info is confusing. Let's say I use a Comet Duster torque converter. The driven pulley has a 1" diameter hole. So I need a 1" shaft to go through that and have my small sprocket on that shaft correct? Let's say I am going to use 12t and 60t sprockets. I cannot find a 12t and a 60t to fit the 1" shaft with the same chain pitch.

sounds like you have the idea, but the 12 and 60 T sprockets won't share the same shaft. the 12 will be on the driven jackshaft then the 60T on your axle. Plenty of choices of 50-series sprockets (same as #530 chain) with the smallest being 10T iirc.

As far as the axle goes, that's down to how or what you build your carrier with. Again, like lug nutz noted, you can weld a hub on, or modify something like an atv carrier and have a bolt on hub on a splined shaft.

11-26-2014, 11:22 PM
But doesn't that 12t go on the same shaft as the secondary pulley?

11-27-2014, 10:53 AM
But doesn't that 12t go on the same shaft as the secondary pulley?

Yes. your questions made me think you were looking for the same size dia for the 12 and 60. Is finding the same tooth pitch the issue? a #50 size sprocket will run 530 chain and plenty are out there with a 1", 1/4 keyed diameter. A 530 bike sprocket or a custom made one is what you're after for the 60 T

11-27-2014, 05:01 PM

11-27-2014, 10:12 PM
Yep, this site is great!

11-30-2014, 09:16 PM

Tried the shocks I bought for the front in the rear. Don't think they are gonna be stiff enough.

11-30-2014, 10:15 PM
Looking good. I know the plans call for the shocks to be mounted like that. But if you ask Lugs and a few others on here its best that you mount them closer to straight up and down. The reason is because the shocks don't need to work so hard to keep the thing up.

12-01-2014, 02:25 AM
That looks sweet!!!! Your progress is going great. Can't wait to see how the progress goes from here.

12-01-2014, 11:17 AM
Also mount them as close to the axle as you can get them.

Speedway motors sells coil springs that will fit those shocks they arent very expensive.

you will need about 100-125# spring on the front the rear would be somewhere around 150# spring.

I run 100# springs on my front shocks, had it up to 150 but thats too stiff of a ride.

You should weigh each corner after its built so you know the how heavy to go.

12-01-2014, 11:54 AM
If I did change the spring, what's the best way to remove them and reinstall new ones? Looks like that would be a difficult job.

Another option is to buy a pair of shocks for the rear that have stronger springs. I'm having a difficult time finding inexpensive shocks though.

12-01-2014, 12:22 PM
Changing the springs is technically easy, but a little bit of a challenge. The cap at the top of the spring is slotted. You compress the spring so the cap isn't pushing against the top of the shock mount, then slide it out. The spring slides up over the top shock mount. Easy Peasy. :)

You will need a tool to compress the spring. I made my own tool. I slide a long bolt through the bottom of the tool and the lower shock mount. The top part has a lever with forks that fit into a coil near the top of the spring. You compress the spring with the lever, slip the spring cap off, then release the lever. Pull the spring off the shock and you're done!!!

12-01-2014, 02:57 PM
I went through the same thing and after I changed shocks I found the springs at speedway. I really like the way those shocks look.

12-01-2014, 04:15 PM
They are empi shocks. I guess they make a lot of Volkswagen parts?? I believe they might work in the front but not going to be stiff enough in the rear. Too heavy. I think I paid about $90 for the pair.

12-01-2014, 04:26 PM
I'm still up in the air on what to do about the clutch. I found a Polaris trail boss 250 primary and secondary clutch with the belt on ebay. Looks good in the picture but what do I know. There are a lot of transmission on ebay too but I don't know what fits what. I guess the other option I am contemplating is a comet and they are expensive. Looking at the 500 series. That's what the plans recommend for the smaller industrial engines.

12-01-2014, 10:33 PM
The polaris atv secondary clutch fits onto the polaris atv gearbox. Then the gearbox has a splined shaft for a brake disk, and the final drive sprocket. This is a cheap and easy setup for an industrial engine, better than a comet setup because you have forward, neutral, reverse, and you don't have to monkey around with a jackshaft. See this one on ebay, good price, and it is a real simple one.


1992 Polaris Trail Boss 250 ATV Transmission Gear Box w Gear Selector Lever | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-Polaris-Trail-Boss-250-ATV-Transmission-Gear-Box-w-Gear-Selector-Lever-/171565179308?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27f214e1ac&vxp=mtr)

Let me know if you want me to remove the ebay link.

12-01-2014, 11:32 PM
I guess I should have been more clear. I kinda understand how the gearbox and clutches fit. Just not sure which year models fit what. Another thing I am worried about is what I'm getting by buying clutches and transmissions that are over 20 years old. I do not have the know how to repair those or justify buying them used.

12-01-2014, 11:43 PM
I hear you, I've taken apart the polaris clutches, and I knew nothing about them before. Real easy, not alot of parts really. and lots of rebuild kits available.
I've looked into the comet stuff and its decent, but pricey.
As for the age, I'd take a chance on a gearbox like the one I posted if you can get it for super cheap. But i agree with spending any sort of money on a 20yr old part.

12-02-2014, 03:50 PM
All of the Polaris ATV driver and driven clutches are identical for all models and years, unless you have a unit with EBS. The clutch is a little different, but nothing critical. The seller would typically state that it is an EBS clutch.

The biggest issue with the driver clutches are the plastic buttons that allow the clutch to slide in and out. They're cheap and relatively easy to replace. If you purchase a clutch from Ebay, replace the plastic buttons. The driven clutch has a similar issue. There are three plastic buttons in the clutch that serve a similar purpose. These all wear down over time and need to be replaced. Again, the buttons are cheap and are typically the only part that ever wears out.

So, any of the ATV clutches will fit any transmission. The only issue I've seen with the transmission is related to the chain in the transmission. If the fluid runs low and the chain heats up, it will stretch. It makes a clackety sound. The chain is (relatively) inexpensive and not very hard to replace. I wouldn't expect any of the transmissions on Ebay to have this issue. It's not real common.

If you're thinking about a transmission, then I would recommend the Polaris clutches. Age isn't necessarily a factor on the clutches, because I've known plenty of people who ride their ATV's once or twice a year and never put any real wear and tear on them. Also, since Polaris has been using the same clutches since 1985, they appear to be dependable.

If you go the Polaris route, pick up a third-party (Chilton's) service manual for a Trailblazer or a Trailboss. It has detailed information on servicing the clutches. That's what I used to learn about them.

I feel your pain on trying to figure out the right parts, etc for your build. Rest assured, however, that your second build will go much faster. [smilie=smile.gif]

12-02-2014, 09:39 PM
That's a lot of good info. Thank you very much. Kinda wish I hadn't purchased the comet yesterday. Lol. Oh well. This site has been very helpful. Now I need to buy wheels and tires figure out the brakes and rear shocks.

12-08-2014, 06:22 PM
We'll I took one spring off and called speedway motors. They said they didn't have any springs that would fit this shock. The outside diameter is 2 1/4". The tech said he didn't have anything that small.

12-08-2014, 10:38 PM
Maybe they don't carry them anymore. I know the inner diameter and length arewhat is critical. The outer diameter, not so much.

12-08-2014, 11:55 PM
And now the comet clutch came in and the engine's shaft isn't long enough to go all the way thru the primary clutch.

12-09-2014, 02:08 AM
And now the comet clutch came in and the engine's shaft isn't long enough to go all the way thru the primary clutch.

That was a common issue with the comet 30 series and some of the smaller clone engines. With those, most just installed it with 1/4 to 3/8ths air space behind the bolt/washer.

If it's a straight keyed shaft, you could just cut a matching diameter chunk off a piece of rod stock, drill it out and run a longer bolt through.

on your springs, most of those you'll find on e-bay are the "common" 2/12 od size. I have a pile of about 15 springs from various sleds and quads, in that pile is one loner size-wise. I'm pretty sure it came off the rear shock of an '85/86 polaris trailboss. Yellow, 9 inches long, 2- 5/16ths OD, 1- 3/4 ID. You might be able to pick up a variety of rear shocks springs cheaply to test rates with, but it can be pain finding two of the same sometimes.

12-09-2014, 02:14 AM
That sounds like a pretty good idea.

12-09-2014, 02:21 AM
BTW, just scrolled back through the thread, what engine are you using? Didn't see it unless i skipped a page ..

Springs, could also call empi direct to see if the springs are offered and if there is a distributor who has them


12-09-2014, 12:39 PM
I'm using the 13 hp predator from harbor freight. Probably won't have tons of power but it's for my kids.

12-10-2014, 01:26 AM
Ok so the comet 500 series torque converter came in today. It says it has a high ratio of .81:1 and a low of 3.34:1. I ordered a 12t sprocket and a 60t(which is way larger diameter than I thought). Did I go too big with the 60t? I figure I need low end torque since I'm not using the high hp engines that others are using.

12-10-2014, 11:56 AM
There are a couple of gear chart stickies in the drive line forum.

12-11-2014, 02:56 PM
That sounds about right. That is a 5:1 ratio on the sprocket setup. My kids go kart with a 10hp engine had a 10 tooth sprocket on the jackshaft and a 50 tooth sprocket on the axle. That's the same ratio you'll be running.

Further note:

Well, on second thought. Are you using the primary/secondary jackshaft setup shown in the Shredder plans? If so, then what is the ratio from the primary to the secondary?

If you calculated the ratio of the primary/secondary jackshafts on the Shredder, then the final ratio, not counting the torque converter, is 8:1.

12-11-2014, 06:59 PM
No I am using s10 cv axles and a comet 500 series torque converter. Those gear charts show up as jibberish in an iPhone.

12-13-2014, 11:10 AM
The driven clutch for the torque converter setup is mounted on a jackshaft, with the clutch on one side and a sprocket on the other. I'm assuming, since you're using the S10 CV axles, that you only have one jackshaft.

Your drive ratio is the same as the Comet 500 setup that came on my kids go kart. I would start there.

12-15-2014, 11:12 PM
If I use a 10t and a 50t sprocket versus a 12t and 60t, I would have the same results correct? And gain some room since the 50t is about 2 inches smaller in diameter than the 60t.

12-16-2014, 03:30 AM
If I use a 10t and a 50t sprocket versus a 12t and 60t, I would have the same results correct? And gain some room since the 50t is about 2 inches smaller in diameter than the 60t.

You've got it right.

12-16-2014, 01:25 PM
Well, while we're on the subject of sprockets and gear ratios . . .

I'm assuming that you're using a #50 or a 520/530 chain?

Both sprocket setups will give you the same ratio, but I was warned in the past that a 10 tooth sprocket with a #50 chain creates a lot of articulation and wear. The minimum sprocket size they recommended was a 12 tooth.

Back in the day, I had a chain drive setup using a single jackshaft and a 520 chain. It had a 12 tooth sprocket on the front and a "pizza pan" sized sprocket on the live axle. It worked fine, I had no real complaints, but I did need to watch out for the big rocks on the trail and make sure I didn't hit them with the rear sprocket. When I rebuilt my rear end with an independent suspension, I basically copied the Shredder II setup. The reduction between the primary and secondary jackshaft is 2:1 and the ratio from the secondary to the axles is 4:1. If you do the math, then the final ratio is 8:1 (not counting the torque converter).

The Shredder II design also uses #40 chains instead of the larger #50. This gave me a much smaller rear sprocket and really helped with clearance issues, but the primary/secondary jackshaft setup also adds more complexity. The chain between the jackshafts is really short and, therefore, generates more heat and more friction. The teeth on the primary jackshaft sprocket wore off, long before the sprockets on the secondary jackshaft showed any appreciable wear.

Sprocket size is more of an issue if you're building a dual chain setup (e.g. Shredder II) because the sprockets are mounted on the axles and are lower to the ground. If you're using CV axles, the sprocket is mounted up higher on the center carrier and you have more clearance.

Since you already have the 12t and 60t sprockets, I would just forge ahead. We want to see this buggy on the road!!!! [smilie=wbounce.gif]

12-16-2014, 04:03 PM

Yes I am using 50 chain. I didn't know they recommended at least a 12t. Guess I will just stick with what I have. I have already made a guard for the sprocket. May need to trim it a little.

12-16-2014, 04:06 PM
You gotta protect that chain and sprocket. My guard has hit quite a few rocks that would have destroyed my sprocket and chain. Nice work!

12-16-2014, 04:55 PM
another issue with the smaller sprocket is chain jumping/skipping when it stretches. it'll be worse the small the diameter is.

12-16-2014, 06:45 PM

Just finished a couple of hubs to connect the s10 axles to the center carrier. I cut them out with a plasma so they aren't perfectly round. Shouldn't matter much since the bolt holes are centered correctly. I welded a sprocket hub to the plate.

01-03-2015, 07:08 PM

Built a motor mount the other day.

01-04-2015, 11:51 AM
Wow the tig welds are nice. Are you test fitting that engine and such before welding it all? or are you just going 100% by the plans?

01-05-2015, 12:20 AM
Yes I am test fitting before welding. The plans show a completely different design for the rear end.

02-16-2015, 09:27 PM

Mocking up a few things.

02-17-2015, 02:59 PM
Looking very good. What size are your final drive sprockets and have you calculated your top speed with this setup?

02-17-2015, 06:33 PM
I have a 12 t and a 60 t. No I have not calculated the speed.

03-01-2015, 06:54 PM
How much deflection should I have in the chain? Is there a rule of thumb as to how tight?

03-01-2015, 11:25 PM
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch is the shadetree standard. ;)

03-25-2015, 05:33 PM

Reworked my guard for the chain and sprocket.

03-25-2015, 11:51 PM
Its lookin good!!!

03-26-2015, 04:02 PM
Can you only post of video from youtube?

03-26-2015, 06:05 PM
Cool looking build! I think when my kids out grow the one they have, this would be a perfect one to build!


04-04-2015, 04:09 AM
I had a 440 in my shredder with the 12t and 60t final sprocket with 26" rear tires and my top speed was 53mph. I am upgrading to a 580 liquid cooled and do not know the top speed yet but almost twice the hp so we shall soon see what I get.

04-05-2015, 08:58 PM
Man that's fast. I have doubts that mine will go that fast with a 13 hp industrial motor.

04-14-2015, 08:16 PM

Does anyone know what that round brass looking thing is with the two screws at the bottom of the master cylinder? Pressure switch/sensor. Do I need it. Can I remove and plug the hole with a bolt?

Not sure why the pic is so big.

04-15-2015, 10:58 AM
That is a brake light switch. If I were you I'd keep that there, makes it easy to hook up a brake light.

04-15-2015, 04:08 PM
Ah ok thanks.

04-20-2015, 09:50 AM

Brake pedal to master cylinder.

Ever since I updated my iPhone, the icon to insert a photo does not work. It kicks me out of the forum. Anyone else?

05-04-2015, 09:47 PM
Yep brake lights are nice to have. I used a LED strip mounted to my roll bar. All red and about 16" long.

05-12-2015, 05:12 PM
Anyone know where to get custom lengths of hydraulic brake line with 10mm banjo bolt connections? Specifically about 7ft.

05-12-2015, 09:35 PM
Many of the ATV brakes have banjo brake fittings. I used an aftermarket extended brake line set I got off ebay for mine. I think the brand was full flight.

05-13-2015, 04:49 AM
I'm not sure where you are located, but if your looking for brake lines, House of Hose will make custom lines for you. Any size you want with any fitting size or style you want. I think they are located throughout the US. I used them recently for a bunch of hoses for a hydraulic scissor lift I built for work. they were very helpful.

05-13-2015, 12:24 PM
You can also get hard brake line and flare the ends, pretty easy. Harbor freight sells a flare tool that works pretty good. I went with 18" flexible line on the ends and hard lines throughout.

I had EVCO house of hose make my ends. They arent expensive, and when you go long runs you'll want as much hard line as possible. The flexible line will expand when hit the brakes and give it a mushy feeling if they are too long, unless you use braided lines.

05-13-2015, 03:23 PM
Ok thank you for all the info.

05-18-2015, 12:52 PM
Anything wrong with just running hard lines throughout?

05-18-2015, 11:27 PM
You will need some flexible line at the wheels since they like to cycle up & down.

05-19-2015, 10:55 AM
I guess I shouldn't have used the word throughout. Right now I just have two calipers on one disc in the rear. I'm thinking of running hard line from the master cylinder to those calipers.

05-20-2015, 01:28 AM
Thats how i did it. Hard line with a foot of flexible on the ends to account for wheel travel and movement.

06-10-2015, 03:05 PM
Every time I click the icon to insert a picture, I get kicked out of the site. It's done this every since I updated my iPhone. Anyone know a fix?

06-10-2015, 06:57 PM
that's weird. And, sorry, I don't have a clue...

06-14-2015, 10:38 PM
On the first ride a ball joint broke. Guess that's what I get for buying them from surplus center. Gonna check into the ones ubuilditplans sells.

06-15-2015, 11:16 PM
I bought mine from

QS Components (http://www.qscomponents.com/)

They are holding up just fine! Good price too

06-22-2015, 12:54 PM
The front shocks I bought on eBay just aren't going to work. Too soft in the front and I cannot find stiffer springs for them. Back to the drawing board on those too.

06-22-2015, 03:50 PM
What shocks did you get?

06-22-2015, 09:28 PM
The fronts are empi. I found them on eBay. Apparently they make a lot of VW parts. The rears are some othe brand I found on eBay. The rear shocks seem to be ok. I'd post pictures but haven't been able to since I updated my iPhone.

06-22-2015, 11:12 PM
Check here, they have all kinds of spring sizes, inner diameter, and length's.

Coil Springs and Accessories, Coil Springs from Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Shop/Coil-Springs-and-Accessories-Coil-Springs/12.html?facet=LA_Inside_Diameter:1.875)

06-23-2015, 01:43 AM
Hey Texan, Spring Rate Calculator Ridetech News and Information (http://www.ridetech.com/info/spring-rate-calculator/) seems to have worked pretty good for me. It'll at least get you close to the ballpark and maybe save you a few sets of shocks.

06-23-2015, 05:02 AM
Lugs I called speedway several months ago. They told me straight out they didn't have anything to fit these shocks.

06-24-2015, 02:10 AM
Bummer, I ended up going with FOA shocks the upper A arm has to be modified to make them work. The FOA shocks are a lot more expensive than the empi ones also.

06-24-2015, 02:40 PM
I used a computer and posted a pic but i need to make it smaller so I deleted it.

06-24-2015, 02:43 PM
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/shredder-buggy-group/http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag354/brianskelton77/Mobile%20Uploads/3407B51B-7F24-4D06-80D3-F5004EF8C657_zpsbzzbgt7p.jpg~original (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/brianskelton77/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3407B51B-7F24-4D06-80D3-F5004EF8C657_zpsbzzbgt7p.jpg.html)

Well that didn't work either.

06-24-2015, 06:46 PM

I just checked your coding and man, it's all FUBAR.

Open a second browser tab
Open your picture in that tab
put your mouse over the picture, right click, select "Copy Image Address"
Come back here
hit the little icon that looks like a mountain on an envelope
hit ctrl-V and that will paste the URL of the pic into the window. No need to unhighlight the http:// that pops up in the window, just hit ctrl-V and it'll paste the address in
hit OK

it ends up looking like this:

The coding looks like this: [IM G]http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag354/brianskelton77/Mobile%20Uploads/3407B51B-7F24-4D06-80D3-F5004EF8C657_zpsbzzbgt7p.jpg[/IM G] except there's no space between the M and G

gotta laugh at myself - did it wrong the first time, hit preview post and got the same little blue square that you're getting in your post. WTF? Quick look and, "oh..." whew.

06-25-2015, 04:43 AM
Thank you.

06-27-2015, 02:41 AM
Do any of you guys have parking brakes and what did you use?

06-27-2015, 04:19 AM
That buggy is rad! Diggin' the black wheels and chrome lug nuts.
That's interesting those front springs are too soft. I used to put those Empi ones on the back of baja bugs and they always seemed a bit stiff. Maybe they softened the rate over the years. Good job on the build, looks great.

06-27-2015, 05:00 AM
Thank you. I looked for stiffer springs and different shocks. I haven't been able to locate anything I can afford yet. I'm gonna try putting the rears on the front and if they work, I'll just get another set of those. I believe they are some replacement for a Joyner sand viper( whatever that is) that I found on eBay.

06-28-2015, 04:06 AM
You're welcome.
Yeah, good shocks are pricey. Might want to add some nice thick rollcage padding to the section by the driver's/passenger's head area. Speaking from experience it's not pleasant when head meets cage. :)

06-29-2015, 08:33 PM
Think I have the shocks figured out. I modified the rear shocks and put them on the front and ordered another set for the rear. On another note, I had broken a ball joint that I had purchased from surplus center so I ordered the ones ubuilditplans.com sells. They came in and one of them had a crack in it. One thing after another.

07-01-2015, 08:55 PM
There are in line hydraulic p-brakes, but they're not really all that good. I always had bleed down issues. Jamar makes one, if I recall correctly.

07-07-2015, 11:46 AM
I am painting the buggy with POR15 in black. POR15 is awesome paint but I want to do some parts in red and they never seem to have the red top coat in stock. Anyone know of any other decent paint I can get in red?

07-19-2015, 06:31 PM

Quick question on the four angle in the middle, I think they are 54T. The left is upside down and the right is right side up in the manual. But the destructions are a little confusing about tacking the base together... like dont tack 102,103 etc. Can I tack all of the base together or should I wait until I have the seats first to put on 54T? Thanks :)

01-14-2016, 11:17 AM
Im sure you have progressed beyond the seat mounts, but I think the reason behind not tacking some parts is so you dont have to remove them if they arent positioned correctly.

That is all

01-20-2016, 12:00 AM
Ok so I am building the shredder 2 , i am going with a Honda cbr 600 of a motorcycle
Just wondering if I should use the planes for the back set up , I am worried that if I use the planes and the hardware I will just rip it all up with all the rpms I am going to be putting through it.

01-20-2016, 01:46 PM
Check this build he did what you want to do with his jackshaft setup.


herman pahls
01-24-2016, 05:35 PM
Hi Texan77 or any other Shredder builders.

Do you mind sharing what size and how thick the square tubing is on your Shredder rear trailing arms?
It appears to be 2"x2".
I am not building a Shredder but building similar trailing arms and would like to know what tubing size is holding up.
How much are the Shredders weighing with 13HP Predators?

01-24-2016, 07:51 PM
Yep they are 2"X 2"

herman pahls
01-24-2016, 09:26 PM
Hi lug-Nuts
Do you recall the wall thickness on that 2x2" square tubing for the trailing arms?
That tubing comes in wall thickness from .095 to .250

01-26-2016, 09:44 AM
The plans call for 2" X 1/8" square tube for the trailing arms. You can use whichever thickness you like, or can get.


herman pahls
01-26-2016, 07:07 PM
Thanks for the info and photo.
I try to build as light as possible so wanted to know what thickness is working.
The angle welded to the bottom of the trailing arm should help prevent twisting

01-26-2016, 08:02 PM
Oh and the buggy with no motor weighs around 500#'s

01-26-2016, 08:04 PM
here's a top down pic of the trailing arm