View Full Version : SII buggy - My first Build

09-26-2014, 02:45 AM
Greetings and salutations!

I am finally going to start my thread showing the work I have done on my SII. I hope to be able to post some progress pictures soon. I have been working on parts of my buggy for a while now and have finally decided to start this post. I am hoping it will help keep me motivated during the upcoming winter months. I have read many of the threads on this forum and they have really had my head swimming with all the possibilities of things I would like to do to my buggy. All I can say is that this forum has some very creative and smart people building buggies. I will post more as soon as I down load my build Picts from my phone to my computer.


09-26-2014, 03:44 AM
Since this is my first buggy build, my plan is to stay fairly close to the original drawings. I am planning on having a small cargo area over the engine so that I can carry some basic camp stuff, a cooler, tools or whatever I think I may need.

Does anyone know how to post pictures? I keep trying to insert a picture only to have it ask for a URL. I have also tried to download the picture from my computer and it tells me that the download failed. Any help would be appreciated.

09-26-2014, 04:16 AM

I do the Photobucket and IPhone deal. Works fine for me.

09-27-2014, 12:27 PM
You need to use an image hosting site like photobucket, it holds the pics for you, then when you post on here you link to the pic. Photobucket makes it really easy to copy and paste the links into the post. If you put the photobucket app on your phone its easy to transfer the pics to your account.

09-28-2014, 04:45 AM
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/shredder-buggy-group/http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5/chaseparmer/IMG_0527_zps6755e697.jpg (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/chaseparmer/media/IMG_0527_zps6755e697.jpg.html)
http://http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5/chaseparmer/IMG_0535_zps6882c943.jpg (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/chaseparmer/media/IMG_0535_zps6882c943.jpg.html)
Here is my first attempt at inserting a picture. This picture was taken a while ago. since this was taken i have Fabricated quite a few of the small steel suspension members. I have also been collecting a lot of the hardware for the axles, spindles, and etc.

Thanks Duane and Jerm for the advice on posting pictures.

09-28-2014, 04:55 AM
Take 2.
Sorry for the blurry picture. My camera was broken when this photo was taken. I will post better pictures in the next couple days.

09-28-2014, 07:30 AM
Looks good! nice progress.

09-28-2014, 01:19 PM
Any idea on what is going to power this thing? Build is looking good - keep us updated!

09-30-2014, 12:55 AM
I finally had a few minutes to figure out the photo bucket stuff and down load some pictures. see below. Since this is my first build and I don't have a big budget, i have been looking for a Horizontal shaft Brigs, Honda or etc. I have found a few in the local adds, but they all look as though they have been beat nearly to death already. I did a search online and found a 15 hp horizontal shaft "Honda knock-off" from Home Depot that comes with electric start and an 18 amp alternator for about $400. I am not sure of the quality, but the reviews are positive. I would love to find a decent running motorcycle motor to put into my cart, but have not been able to find anything within my budget that still runs. Also, I would love to have a reverse gear, but after searching forever, I think I will have to go the old fashioned method and get out and push.

I have spent the last couple fab sessions working on the suspension parts so please see below for pictures.





Just as a side note: yes, I am building two SII Buggy's. Once my wife saw the progress, she said she would not be a passenger, so the only logical solution was to build one for her.:D

10-02-2014, 02:34 PM
Awesome, I saw the other frame in your first pic and thought sweet he's building two. You sir are very motivated. Good luck can't wait to see more.

10-02-2014, 05:03 PM
Two buggies! My goodness! Most builders have trouble finishing one buggy, let alone two!! ;)

Regarding the engine, you shouldn't have any problems with the Honda clone engine. They're ubiquitous these days and they seem to hold up pretty good. After you get everything settled in, you'll want to check out affordablegokarts web site. They develop Honda clone engines for racing. You probably don't need a full blown racing engine, but there are some modifications that you can make that offer a lot of bang for the buck. Removing the governor is the first step and that costs nothing. They show an easy way to reroute the throttle linkage to remove the governor.

You'll also need to decide on a torque converter setup. There are various options, but none of them are cheap, in my opinion. You'll want to avoid the Comet 30 TorqueVerter setup since it won't hold up to a 15+ horsepower engine, but everything else is fair game.

10-05-2014, 04:03 PM
Thanks for the advice. I have looked at affordable go karts and they have some great ideas for engine upgrades. I will definitely incorporate some of the options into my buggy. As for the torque converter, I wish I had know this two days sooner as I found two new unused torque converts in the local adds at a great price so I bought them. They are Comet 500 torque converters. Does anyone know how these compare to the comet 30? I am hoping that a 500 is better than a 30. Also does anyone know a good source for belts for these? Is. This something a local auto store would carry?

10-13-2014, 12:27 AM
I have finally had a chance to do some research on the Comet 30 vs. Comet 500 torque converters and I believe the Comet 500 will work just fine for my buggy using a 15 hp motor. The Comet 30 looks as though is is only rated for 8 hp max and the 500 is rated for 16 hp if it is 4 stroke motor (23 hp if it is a 2 stroke). I have attached a picture showing the Comet 500 Torque Converter I am planning on using. I still need to procure a motor and have decided that, unless something better comes along, I will be using the 15 hp Horizontal shaft home depot motor. Also, when I took the driven pulley out of the box I found a belt in the bottom of the box. I don't know if it is the correct length, but at least it's a start.



10-13-2014, 03:24 AM
I use the Comet 500 torque converter on my minibike with an old Tecumseh 8hp engine. You'd be surprised how fast it can go and how well it climbs. The 500 clutch is definitely a better option than the model 30. It is also very reliable.

Manufacturing Supply has a handy chart that shows the center-to-center distance for the clutches, depending on the belt. Look under Go Kart -> Clutches -> Comet 500 -> Replacement Belts. The chart is at the bottom of the page.

10-17-2014, 10:14 PM
Thanks, based on the SII Drawings, it looks as though the belt I have will be too short. The good news is that Manufacturing supply carries belts for the Comet 500 Torque Converter. So Once I figure out the exact length I need I now know where to find them. Also, I have been thinking about the design of the SII Buggy and have make a sketch of what I would like to change. See below. I am planning on making a small cargo area above the motor with side rails and Diamond Tread Aluminum panels and Deck. I just want an area big enough to carry a cooler or an extra gas can or fishing pole. Also, I just like the way it looks better.


10-17-2014, 11:23 PM
I like the look too.

10-21-2014, 01:58 PM
The drawings i have are calling out a 1" bore keyed sleeve for use on my primary drive shaft. I also need some 1" non-keyed sleeve material. Does anyone know where to find this material? I have been unable to find these. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

10-24-2014, 02:29 PM
Thanks for your updates! I'm in Utah also and want to build a shredder. Helps to see all the ideas etc...

10-26-2014, 01:47 AM
I always check NPS I found 4' of 1-3/16" keyed axlefor scrap price. I spent like 3.00 bucks on

10-31-2014, 01:44 AM
What is NPS? I tried doing a Google search but didnt find anything that looked like the right thing. Also, I already have the drive shafts for my kart. But the plans are calling out a sleeve that slides over the drive shaft and acts as a spacer between the bearings and/or sprockets. The drawings are calling out both a sleeve with a keyway and a sleeve without a keyway. I have not been able to find the sleeve with the keyway. I think it is possible to use a 1.25" tube with 1/8" wall thickness for the non-keyway sleeves. If anyone know where to find the sleeve with keyway I would love to know.

Also, I have spent the last couple fab sessions building a shed to store my karts in. With winter fast approaching I want to make sure my wife can park in the garage and I will need a place to work where it's dry. I am hoping to finish soon so that I can get back to working on the karts. :)

11-02-2014, 02:27 PM
NPS is a freight damage store here in SLC. Check out the link. You never know what they are going to have day to day.

The NPS Store - Home (http://www.npsstore.com/)

11-04-2014, 01:35 AM
Thanks. I did find that web site but didn't think it was the right one. When I looked the first time they had a bunch of clothes, p. erfume and jewelry. I will have to drop into the store and see what else they have. Looks cool though.

I have been searching through the local adds and have found a few items for my kart. I found a steering wheel, some bearings, and a 2500 lb. capacity electric winch (Harbor Freight Brand). I have also seen several adds for Ryhno Shocks, but don't know if these will work on the shredder karts. Most of the shocks I have seen are from people who have upgraded their UTV's and are selling the stock parts. Has anyone tried using these on their karts?

11-04-2014, 01:49 AM
So NPS has 2 stores one on the west side of the street and one on the east side. The east side is the one you want they carry all the cool stuff. The east side has metal for sale, and parts and all kind of goodies. The west side store has groceries and perfume.

11-04-2014, 01:54 AM
Dont see why rhyno shocks shouldnt work. If you can get them for a good price why not?

11-05-2014, 01:23 PM
What is NPS? :)

NPS buys freight salvage and sells it to the public. The website isn't very helpful. NPS is literally the reason that I got into minibuggies. I was in there and a friend pointed out this heavy 1:1 T gearbox with 1.25" keyed shafts for $35. He thought it would make a good rear end for a go cart. Of course I bought it. Then I found minibuggy.net while researching how to build a buggy. Needless to say, the gearbox was never meant to be, and never became a buggy part and it sits on a shelf.

They used to not have such a heavy presence on the auction site, and you could get amazing deals on all kinds of stuff. They are still there you just have to look harder. The rule is if you see it and think you may need, buy it. It'll be gone when you come back. Anything that rides in a truck is there at some point. Dirt bikes. Bicycles. Tires. Electrical. welding supplies. Metal. Sporting goods. Tools.

They also have pallet auctions. Walk around, look at all the pallets, silent bid on whatever you want.

1600 Empire Rd, Salt Lake City, UT 84104

11-05-2014, 04:02 PM
Sounds good. I will be traveling past the NPS store later today and plan on stopping in to take a look.

Also, I scored some shocks from a 2012 Polaris Razor yesterday.[smilie=giddy.gif] as far as i can tell they are in good shape. No leaks or damage that I could see. The guy who sold them to me upgraded his razor to a long travel suspension and was selling the left over stock parts. I tried to pick up a few other parts but he had already promised them to another buyer.:( See below.


11-05-2014, 04:12 PM
Does anyone know where to get the tool used to adjust the springs on the shocks. These look like there is some kind of specialty wrench to make adjustments. Also, is there a recommended procedure? If I understand correctly you can dial the tension on the springs so that they give either a softer or firmer ride. These are already tensioned as firm as they go. I am thinking that my buggy will weigh less than or about the same as a Razor so I think the shocks should work well, but it would be nice to dial in the ride once my buggies are done.

11-05-2014, 08:55 PM
The shock adjustment tool will vary slightly, depending on the diameter of the shock, etc. If you don't have a tool handy, then a pair of channel lock pliers will work. You just need to get a firm grip and twist the adjuster. It moves easier than you think.

11-06-2014, 12:37 AM
Sweet! I'll give it a try. I was worried the shocks would be difficult to adjust. I think the only problem I have found with the shocks is that the bottom bushing is 1/2" wider than the gap between the plates I welded to the A-arms and rear swing arms. I should have waited until I had the shocks before welding the two mount plates on. Lessons learned I supose. Looks like I will be re-fabricating some mounting plates in my next fab session. Bummer!

11-06-2014, 12:42 AM
Forgot to mention. I stopped at the NPS store today and all of you were correct. I planned on spending about 30 minutes taking a quick look on my way to an appointment and an hour and a half later I was calling to explain why I was late. Oops!

11-17-2014, 10:55 PM
Ya NPS will get ya. They used to have a nut and bolt section I could spend a lot of time just in that section. Now they auction pallets of nuts and bolts, before u could buy them by weight.

11-18-2014, 07:43 PM
I have definately found a new "favorite" place to shop whenever I am in the area. It's kind of like a scavenger hunt for things you didn't know you were looking for. [smilie=jumping.gif]

It has been a while since i have made any progress on my SII. I have been getting over a bad cold that has been lingering for almost 3 weeks now. I hate being sick!!!

I am starting to feel like i am going through builders-withdrawl. I havn't done anything on the karts in quite a while. Also, I am still working on my shed, and hope to be able to make some progress on it this weekend. I'll have to attach a couple pictures once it is completed.

11-19-2014, 02:16 PM
I am guilty of the shopping for stuff I didn't know I needed. Okay if you have somewhere to put it. I now have a large portion of funds tied up in stuff on the shelves.
Always like to see sheds members have built.

11-28-2014, 11:16 PM
That bushing that is too wide on the shock....I just took a cutoff wheel and trimmed them. The bushing stuck out about 3/8" on each side.

11-29-2014, 11:31 PM
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, When I checked out the bottom shock mount, I found that the steel tube that holds the bushing is 3/16" wider than the tabs on my A-Arms. I would have to modify both the rubber bushings and the steel tube the bushing fits inside in order to make it work. I think it's a bit of a toss-up on which modification is easier to do. I think I will modify the A-arm tabs so that if I ever need to replace the shocks its a simple swap.

01-04-2015, 02:15 AM
Yeah! I finally finished my shed. I know you are all excited to see it so I have posted a Picture. (Just kidding.) I have posted a picture of my Kart frame inside the shed. I am excited to have a dry place to store and work on my karts. Up till now I have had to store the frame outside under a tarp. Unfortunately, the weather has put a few rust spots on it, so I will be doing a little extra cleanup before coating the frames. I am hoping that with a better place to work, I will be able to make better progress on the karts. Enjoy the Pics, Hopefully more to follow soon.

01-04-2015, 02:18 AM
Pict #2

01-04-2015, 02:32 AM
Almost forgot. I found a company that will hot-dip galvanize/Electro galvanize the frame and other steel parts for me for about the same cost as having them powder coated. Has anyone done this and have they had any issues? I am highly considering this but have not seen any other threads of people galvanizing their Kart frames on this site.

01-04-2015, 04:29 AM
I have noticed that bolts and nails that are galvanized are not nearly as strong as their non galv twins. I think that might be best left to gates and such not buggy frames. Keep those posts coming!

01-04-2015, 11:50 AM
I like how you changed the frame on the back end of the shredder.
and um, what sort of spacing do you use on your 2x4 stud walls? My shed is 24", I thought that was pushing it...

01-05-2015, 01:27 AM
Sorry, this is a little off topic for this site, but yeah, I know the 2X4 stud spacing looks wierd, but I built the shed using some insulated structural panels left over from a project at work. (I was able to pick these up for cheap). The walls don't need the studs, but, like Jerm, I thought it looked questionalbe so I added the extra support. Just in case. The nice thing is that my shed has better insualtion than my house. :) Should be a great place to work on my Karts during the cold/hot days. (Walls have 4" of rigid insualtion sandwiched between an interior panel and an exterior sheeting panel)

01-05-2015, 11:30 PM
Sorry to sidetrack the thread, shed looks great.
I really like the new style shredder frame at the rear, what are your plans for that? cargo area? Gas tank?

01-12-2015, 11:14 PM
Finally had a little time Saturday to work on my Karts. Spent the Time tacking the front End together. I ended up removing one of the mounting plates from each of the A-arms and installing a new plate so that the shocks will now fit properly. This turned out to be a lot easier than I had originally thought it would. 4" grinder and a cut-off wheel made short work of it. Once I finished installing the new mounting plates I test fit all the parts as best as I could. Please see attached. I am excited to attach this to the front of my frame and see how it all looks.



01-13-2015, 12:43 AM
wow that looks great! are those shocks off a rzr? XP or some sort of UTV?
I like how you waited to do that funny snout thing on the front of the shredder. Probly best to wait to do that till its tacked on.

01-13-2015, 01:25 AM
The shocks came off of a 2012 Polaris RZR. I found them in the local classifieds. The guy who sold them to me upgraded his RZR to an aftermarket long travel suspension kit and sold all stock parts. I was lucky enough to pick these up for cheap. I think the only thing I should have asked him was which shocks go on the front and which ones go on the rear. I believe the short ones go on the front? I will have to confirm before I finish the shock mounts. I just havn't had time to research this yet.

01-13-2015, 04:43 PM
Looks good!!!

01-19-2015, 05:10 PM
Spent a little time this last Saturday working on the Trailing Arms. I ended up having to cut the shock mount plates off of the trailing arms and making new mounting plates. This was more of an inconvenience than anything else. I also had a few minutes to research the shocks. I was able to find out that the shocks are from a 2012 RZR 800, and that the shorter shocks go on front and the long shocks are for the rear suspension. I also ordered the Rack & Pinion Steering box for my Kart and should receive it this week.


01-21-2015, 09:39 PM
Can someone let me know if a sprocket that calls out a #40 Chain will work with a 420 O-ring chain? I ordered the sprockets for my Jackshaft yesterday and they say they work with a #40 chain, but I keep reading that a 420 O-ring chain is tons better and that they "MAY" be interchangable. Does anyone know if this is true? And what the difference is between them?

02-09-2015, 04:33 PM
Took a few hours and worked on my Karts last Saturday. Now that the Karts are starting to look more complete it makes me want to push to get them finished. Please see attached.





Hoping to make a little more progress this weekend too.

02-09-2015, 05:46 PM
The #420 chain is a little narrower than the #40 chain. In my experience, all of my sprockets have been interchangeable between #40 and #420. I suspect that some of the larger industrial chain sprockets are specifically for #40, but the others seem to work with either size.

02-12-2015, 02:09 PM

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I still have to buy my chains and it sounds like the 420 O-Ring will work.

Also, I picked up a couple 4 point seat belts yesterday for $50 in the local adds. One more item checked off the list.

02-28-2015, 04:32 PM
What a Crazy Day!!!!

Bear with me, the story is a bit long. I took work off today specifically to work on my Karts. One whole day, Uninterrupted, to work on the karts. Been looking forward to it for what feels like weeks. My plan was to take all the suspension parts that I had finished and put them on the Kart. I was hoping to have a rolling chassis by the time my wife got home. Things are never that easy. I can see now that a couple seemingly small choices have escalated into a mess.
For Starters, after seeing a couple other SII Builders swap the front A-arms around, I thought I would follow suit and installed my A-arms opposite what the plans show. (this is supposed to give the SII a longer wheel base and keep the wheels from rubbing the frame when in a sharp turn) I didn't think this would be that big of deal until I realized that by swapping them around the steering link would not connect to the spindle with the spindle arm facing forward. (shock was in the way) No-big-deal. I turned the spindle around so that the little arm on the spindle faces towards the back. Perfect, Everything lines up just fine. Got the front shock mounts tacked on and the front suspension is complete.
I decided since I still had time, i would connect all the steering stuff, so I installed the steering wheel, shaft, chain and got it all hooked up. With that done, I thought I would mounting tabs for the rear trailing arms. Until, I noticed that something wasn't quite right about the steering. When I turn the wheel to the Right, the wheels turn LEFT? Oh, No, by turning the spindles around, I made the steering backwards. The only way I could think of to fix this was to flip the Rack-n-Pinion over, So, I cut out the mounting plate and flipped the Rack-n-Pinion and re-tacked everything back in place. Yes!, Now when the Steering Wheel is turned to the Right the wheels Turn to the Right. Problem Solved. Until I noticed that when I turn the wheels the inner wheel doesn't turn as sharp as the outer wheel. (Shouldn't the inner wheel turn sharper than the outer wheel as it has a smaller radius to travel?) Somehow the Ackerman Steering is backwards.
So now my dilemma is how to fix this. Should I flip the front A-arms, flip the spindles, flip the rack-n-pinion and remake the front shock mounts? Or is there an easy way to fix this so that the Ackerman steering works properly? Any Suggestions? I finally decided to stop for the day and really think this through before I mess anything else.
Fun Day Tinkering in the Garage though.
I'll try to post some pictures as soon as I get a chance.

02-28-2015, 08:22 PM
Guess it all depends on how much work you want to do. You can purchase racks that well mount the same way as the one you have, but they turn the opposite way. The other option isteedo a bunch of stuff to make it work with what you have.

02-28-2015, 08:24 PM
What's the result if you exchange the spindles from left to right and right to left? - not flip them over.

02-28-2015, 10:21 PM
Opps. I actually did switch the spindles left to right and right to left. From Above it does sound like I flipped them over, I did swich them. Should have explained better. I have been thinking about this all day and I think that I may try switching the spindles back so that the arm that the steering linkages connect to are back towards the front of the Kart. then if I move the Rack-n-Pinion forward (and flip it back over) so that the linkages are in front of the shocks everything willl hopefully work proplerly. If this works, I would not have to re-do the front shock mounts. If this doesn't work, I will cross that bridge later. One nice thing is that the whole front end is only tacked together right now, so it wouldn't be too difficulty to redo some of it If I had too.
Thanks for the help.

03-01-2015, 12:51 PM
Don't you love how the "planned" days go? I think we all have a little monkey named Murphy in our back pocket ...

The spindle swap put the steering arm angle going the wrong direction and changed your ackerman. One other alternative would be to relocate the steering arm on the spindle.With rear steer you'll want the arms angling inboard.

I actually run reverse ackerman (the way you have it now) since most of the faster turns on the race trails are heavily biased off camber on the switchbacks and steeper sides of the mountain. Those trail conditions and a very soft front end with a lot of body roll tend to have the outer tire loaded and biting more than the inner when it matters the most. When I tried running what some refer to as "correct" ackerman, the outer tire would understeer me right off the trail and scrub-drag the inner tire along with it since i couldn't get enough turning angle with the outer tire.

03-04-2015, 06:00 PM
Finally had a few minutes to post some picts. See below.

Also, Xbird, Thanks for the help. I have been struggling to figure out a good fix for the steering and what you said makes perfect sense. when I switched the spindles around it changed the angle of the steering arms so that they are angled the wrong way. It looks like the easiest solution would be to have the steering arms on the spindles angled inward. I will have to do some experimenting and see what happens. Greatly appreciate the help.

Front Shock Mounts Tacked together prior to discovering the steering issues.

Rack-n-Pinion mounted Right-Side-up = Backwards steering due to swapping spindles so the steering arms are rearward facing.

Rack-n-Pinion mounted up-side-down = Correct Steering. I had to cut out the angle the R-n-p mounts to and re-tack.

Kart with Front suspension and steering assembled. (Note: The wheels are only temps that I put on so that I can move the cart easily. I picked these up at Harbor Freight a few year back for another project and have had these lying around for years. Spent $10 to swap out the bearings to a 3/4" bearing and they fit right on the spindles.)

03-05-2015, 12:32 PM
if you relocate the steering arms, just make sure you have your brake rotors and rims/tires that you intend to use on hand so you can make sure that you have the clearance.

03-29-2015, 11:21 PM
Finally getting around to posting some progress pictures.
I believe i have solved the steering issues. I ended up switching the spindles back around so that the steering arms are facing towards the front of the kart. I also moved the rack-n-pinion forward until the steering arms cleared the shocks. Once that was done I cut the steering linkage in half and spliced in a 6 inch tube so that the linkage would fit. This seems to have worked. I also tacked the rear suspension onto the kart and fabricated some upper shock mounts. Since I don't have the Wheels or Tires yet, I took some old trailer tires that i have had laying around and made some adapters to mount to the rear spindles. should work as temps until I can save enough to buy some better ones.




http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d5/chaseparmer/Go-Kart/NCM_0573_zpseifwofyd_edit_1427650944252_zps4o19sh0 v.jpg



05-04-2015, 09:49 PM
Hows the builds going? Let me know If you ever want to see mine up close. I live in draper.

05-10-2015, 08:29 PM
Thanks Lug-Nuts, I think it would be great to see your kart.
I haven't made much progress in the last month or so. Work has been insanely crazy and my weekends have been consumed by other obligations. (honey-do-lists) I am hoping to have a few hours to work on the drive trane this weekend. What did you use for spacer sleeves on the primary drive Jack shaft? the plans call for a "1" bore Keyless Sleeve", I have some temporary sleeves on the primary drive Jack shaft and they are quite loose and rattle when I turn the jackshaft. My temporary sleeves are either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" Schedule 40 Pipe (Can't remember which). I have been thinking about adding some set screws to the tubes that could be tightened to help keep the sleeves from rattling. I have the same problem with the rear drive shafts. The spacer between the bearings rattles when I roll the kart around. Thinking about adding the set screws to these as well. If there is a bettter option, I'm all ears.

05-12-2015, 04:11 AM
My drive axle is different than the plans. I used a keyed axle, but I welded flanges to it and bolted everything to that.



07-25-2015, 03:14 AM
Well... it's been a while since i have worked on my Kart. Finally had a few hours, so I spent some time working on the primary drive shaft. I do have to admit, that after looking at the drive system on Lug-nuts kart (and others), I seriously considered changing to a similar setup. However, in the interest of time and materials (I already have most of what I need), I will keep with the original set up. At least for now. Please see pictures below.





I picked up the chains this afternoon and hope to be able to install them soon. Hopefully, I will have a drivable kart by the end of the summer. Not a finished kart, but at least drivable. One issue that I have already found is that the drawings call out welding an extra keyed shaft to the brake, I think this is to increase the length of the key so that it does not shear off when heavy braking is required. The issue is that the brake disk warped when I welded the extra keyed shaft on. It is probably at least a 1/4" or more out of plane. I may have to change this brake out for a disk brake system that mounts to a keyed spindle.

For some reason, the pictures are displaying really big. even though i resized them before linking them to the post.

07-26-2015, 06:56 PM
Added the main drive chains yesterday. See attached Pictures. I also calculated my gear ratios and top speed and think that I'll have a top speed some where around 40 mph.




07-27-2015, 11:32 AM
for your warped rotor, maybe cut away most of the rotor and turn the 3 to 4 inch center portion of it into a hub, drill it out and attach a mini-buggy rotor to it. The yerf dog spiderbox rear brake rotor is less than 20 bucks new from BMI karts. Otherwise all looks good, wouldn't be all that hard to add two more bearing hangars and bearings close to the sprocket on your center rails. NM, just saw the bearing between the sprocket and rotor

07-30-2015, 04:15 PM
XBird, thanks for the advice. Thats a great idea. I just ordered the bolt on disk brake as well as a hydraulic caliper, reservoir and hoses. I didn't realize how easy it is to upgrade to hydraulic brakes or I would have done this right from the start. Now I'm thinking of installing a extra 6" brake disk to the Jack shaft and using the mechanical caliper as a parking brake. I am thinking of using a parking brake lever from a Honda civic or similar. I have been calling around to a couple salvage yards and found one that I think will work for $15. I may have to modify it a little but I think it will work for what I want.
Sweet find. Thanks again XBird.

07-30-2015, 06:08 PM
XBird, thanks for the advice. Thats a great idea. I just ordered the bolt on disk brake as well as a hydraulic caliper, reservoir and hoses. I didn't realize how easy it is to upgrade to hydraulic brakes or I would have done this right from the start. Now I'm thinking of installing a extra 6" brake disk to the Jack shaft and using the mechanical caliper as a parking brake. I am thinking of using a parking brake lever from a Honda civic or similar. I have been calling around to a couple salvage yards and found one that I think will work for $15. I may have to modify it a little but I think it will work for what I want.
Sweet find. Thanks again XBird.

07-30-2015, 06:56 PM
if you have the room around the existing rotor, add a bracket for the parking brake caliper. no need for a second rotor for it and it won't matter much in terms of its location on the rotor as long as it's safe from terrain.

08-09-2015, 08:31 PM
Thanks again for the advice, I really appreciate it. I am still waiting for the disk brakes and calipers to arrive, but once I have them, I can decide how to mount the calipers. I am hoping that I can fit both the main and parking calipers on the one disk. I believe this will simplify the setup considerably. Since I am still waiting for the brake hardware, I decided to spend some time working on the rear frame area of my kart. My concept is to have a small cargo space that will hold a couple coolers, general camping stuff, fishing poles or etc. I am planning on using Aluminum Diamond tread for the floor and as infill panels for the sides. I also ordered the seats and hope to have time to install them next weekend.



08-29-2015, 07:39 PM
Installed my seats today. I am also thinking about installing some sort of differential on the primary drive shaft. I have noticed that one of the rear wheels drags when trying to go around corners. I would like to find something that can be either engaged or disengaged depending on where I am driving. that way I can save my tires if driving on asphalt and have better traction when riding on sand or dirt. If any of you have seen something like this, let me know, I would appreciate any advice available.






09-09-2015, 11:11 PM
I don't think there a low cost option for a differential set up and keeping it simple and chain driven. If you were to go with CV axles in the rear, you could in theory use a small car diff with a shaft driven engine, but that gets heavy and expensive pretty fast, not to mention the space it will take up.

Been lurking on your thread for some time gathering ideas for my own SII build slated to start in roughly 18 months. Looking good so far and I like the rear section as well.

09-10-2015, 01:37 AM
What about a diff out of a golf cart? Don't some of those have them?

09-10-2015, 09:19 AM
What about a diff out of a golf cart? Don't some of those have them?

You could go that route, either as is with a traditional non-irs live axle setup or chop the axle tubes, mod them with end support bearings and seals and stub the axles with mounts for cv's.

09-15-2015, 08:25 PM
What about a diff out of a golf cart? Don't some of those have them?

That would be a tough fit with the trailing arm/chain set up already in place.

09-16-2015, 05:37 AM
That would be a tough fit with the trailing arm/chain set up already in place.
A lot of work for sure.

It would require ditching the chain drive and turning the trailing arm into a link and adding an upper arm, or going de dion style with a heim-eyed shock (jaguar) as the rear upright to get decent travel out of it.

or the alternative would be to put the a front diff c-section from a 4wd utility quad or utv offset at the jackshaft location with a shaft drive going to it and the axle tubes stubbed off, sealed and having the jackshafts coming out of it on either side.

BTW, good to see you back around Master-you need to start burning up some metal!

09-19-2015, 01:12 PM
Thanks everyone for the advice. I have looked into the options suggested and have decided to keep the setup I already have. I think if I decide to drive on asphalt or concrete alot, I can just take one of the chains off. This will help save the tires if necessary. I don't plan on using this cart on the asphalt a lot, so I don't think this will be a problem.

I have decided that since I am building two karts, I will use the CV axle setup for the second kart. This is the same setup that I have seen on Lug-Nuts and others Karts in this forum. I believe I may have found a suitable differential that will work on my kart with the CV axle setup, but will need to do some more research to verify. Hopefully, it will work the way I think it should.

11-13-2015, 10:35 AM
How's your two builds going? I havent been on in a while, just moved to riverton. MOAR land for TOYS!!!

02-14-2016, 04:59 PM
It's been a while since I have been on here. My Work has had me traveling significantly since last October. So when I'm home, my time has been consumed by other things. Needless to say, I haven't made much progress on the kart since my last post. I did purchase some decent UTV tires for my kart yesterday from Rocky Mountain ATV, and I am hopeful that I will have some time in the next few weeks to dig back into things and get some fabricating done.

Has anybody used the new 22 hp V-Twin (670 cc) horizontal shaft from Harbor Freight? If so, is it worth the extra money to get one of these over the 420cc engine?

02-17-2016, 07:58 PM
Tires Arrived today. Looking forward to mounting these on my kart.
The fronts are 23x7x10's and the rear are 24x10.5x10's.




02-20-2016, 05:59 PM
I have enjoyed watching your build!

Check out mine using some of the Shredder plans to modify an old Odyssey.


02-27-2016, 12:10 AM
Mounted the tires today. Crazy how much better it looks. Also, I might just be imagining it, but it feels like it rolls easier.

The Rear tires may need a spacer as the tires only have about 1/4" to 3/8" inch clearance for the shock. Nothing rubs, but it still seems very tight.

Way better than the temp tires!


Super excited that the tires wont rub on the frame, even when fully turned. I even tested this by jumping on the front suspension has hard as I could. I think if the tire were any larger, It would rub the frame if turning and compressed.

Just wanted to see what the Wide tires looked like on the front. Pretty sweet, but I think they would rub while in a sharp turn.

Much Better looking. Starting to take shape.

02-27-2016, 12:16 AM
Forgot to mention:
- Total width of the Front wheels is 60"
- Total width of the Rear wheels is 56"

02-29-2016, 12:34 AM
That's awesome, wish I would have put my A arms backwards cuz my tires rub

03-05-2016, 11:32 PM
So I am planning on using a honda clone from Home depot to power my buggies and have been doing some reading on how to get the most from these engines. I have been reading that one of the most common mods is to remove the Governor. From what I have read it sounds like the governor would help keep my buggies from slowing down going up hills or if heavily loaded. So my question is, What is the advantage of removing/disabling the Governor on these engines?

03-06-2016, 10:55 AM
Industrial engines are typically used in applications where they run at a set rpm for extended periods. The governor keeps the engine from running at a high rpm for an excessive period of time. For off-road applications, the governor isn't germane. You only run at high rpms for short bursts, similar to a car engine.

You might keep the governor if you're building a buggy for your kids and you want to limit the engine output, but adult buggies don't need it.

One of the first mods I made on my industrial engine was removing the governor. I've been running the engine for over 10 years now and no problems. You'll also read about shims on the valve springs. That's also a worthwhile modification. Both mods will definitely give you more hill-climbing power.

03-06-2016, 02:19 PM
Industrial engines are typically used in applications where they run at a set rpm for extended periods. The governor keeps the engine from running at a high rpm for an excessive period of time. For off-road applications, the governor isn't germane. You only run at high rpms for short bursts, similar to a car engine.<br>
You might keep the governor if you're building a buggy for your kids and you want to limit the engine output, but adult buggies don't need it.<br>
One of the first mods I made on my industrial engine was removing the governor. I've been running the engine for over 10 years now and no problems. You'll also read about shims on the valve springs. That's also a worthwhile modification. Both mods will definitely give you more hill-climbing power.<br>
My other buggy is a Manco Duece with a 20hp B&amp;S Vanguard engine. I have been leary of removing the governor as I paid $1500 for the engine, but what you said makes sense. I would think the B&amp;S engine would have tight enough tolerances that it could take a hit of high RPMs every once in a while.<br>
Do you recommend shimming the valve springs for that or is stock ok? I would imagine stock is fine untill you start changing cams, etc.

03-06-2016, 02:41 PM
Thank you, This is my first experience modifying small engines so that makes much more sense now. The governor makes it so that when the engine is running at a set rpm, it doesn't get bogged down under loaded conditions. Disabling the Governor works better for a go kart where the engine revs up and down while driving. Next step, figuring out how to disable/remove the governor....:confused:
Also, does anyone know what the max rpm is for these Honda clones? The home depot engine I am planning on using is nearly identical to the Harbor freight Predator 420 engine. The primary difference is that the home depot engine has an 18 amp charger built in.

03-06-2016, 02:56 PM
That motor seems small for this size buggy. Have you thought about the 22hp Predator?

My Deuce originally came with a 12hp Tecemsuh and although it moved it around, it wasn't much fun. I put in a used 16hp and then finally went with the 20hp Briggs.

My Deuce may actually weigh a little more...I had to have the frame straightened once and the body shop said it took a surprising amount of force to bend it on their frame machine.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h377/mascman/ODDY%20project/20151204_083228_zpsuvtlhst6.jpg (http://s1106.photobucket.com/user/mascman/media/ODDY%20project/20151204_083228_zpsuvtlhst6.jpg.html)

03-06-2016, 04:00 PM
Yeah, Mascman, I understand your concern. When you shell out $1500 for an engine, the last thing you want to do is hit the engine hard and hear a loud 'thump' because the engine can't handle it.

Removing the governor will give you an rpm boost up to the low 4000's. Above that, you start experiencing valve float and the engine won't rev any higher. So, removing the governor is fairly safe. It's really intended for a stationary engine that runs mostly at a constant rpm and our buggies are anything but stationary!!!

My engine started out as a B&S 14/16 hp engine. The only difference between the 14 hp and the 16 hp is the carburetor. I worked with Al Hodge, plus some mods of my own to boost the engine closer to 30 hp. I removed the governor, shimmed the valves, replaced the restrictive exhaust with headers, installed a hotter cam and high-compression pistons. The last change was installing a Mikuni 34mm carburetor to replace the previous 28mm carburetor, which replaced the anemic B&S carburetor. I also have it clutched so that it runs at a fairly high rpm.

With these mods, the engine should have blown up already, because I typically run it at full throttle out on the dunes. But, after 10+ years, it's still going strong. Based upon my experience, you shouldn't have any issues if you disconnect the governor. You could also shim the valves to get the engine closer to 5000 rpm and I think you would still be fairly safe. You're still running the stock carburetor and that, in itself, will also be a limiter on performance.

Inalit, I would also suggest that you look at the Harbor Freight V-twin engine. I started with 10 hp on my first buggy, then progressively upgraded to 14, 20, then roughly 30 hp. It just gets funner and funner as you add the horsepower. The 13 hp engine can certainly be modified to put out 20+ horsepower, but with the V-twin, you start out at 20 hp stock.

The governor is basically a shaft connected to a set of weights. You can disconnect the governor and be fine if that is the only engine modification you're making. I ran my engine with the governor disconnected for a long time. When I added the new pistons and cam, however, I removed it.

03-06-2016, 08:06 PM
Oh man!!! I am experiencing some serious Horsepower envy. I have seen the V-twin from harbor freight and I believe it will fit in my kart just fine. I have been leaning towards the 420cc engine primarily because of the 18amp charger that it comes with. my plan is to install an electric winch and lights and wanted to make sure that I don't have to worry about killing the battery if I use them. Have you had problems with the batteries draining?

Mascman, Your buggy looks great and I am definitely considering going with a bigger engine.

03-06-2016, 09:28 PM

As far as the battery is concerned, throw a charger on it the night before you are going out and it should be fine.

Honestly, how often will you use the winch? For lights, go with LEDs and they draw hardly anything.

On that buggy above, I use a garden tractor battery mainly just for starting, but I have some older lights (non-LED) and it was fine.

And...even if you did kill the battery getting your buggy unstuck there is always the recoil!

EDIT: Never mind the recoil comment...the Predator 22hp does NOT have one!

03-06-2016, 11:40 PM
A pair of 55 watt Halogen headlamps only pull 9 amps total. How many amps does it take to run your winch? How often will you run your lights and your winch at the same time?

The engine runs off the magneto. If you draw the battery down a bit, it will recharge and have no impact on the engine. Unless you kill it. :)

03-08-2016, 01:42 PM
Are you able to run lights from the Harbor Freight engine? I assume it charges the battery while running, but what output in amps would you say it has?

03-08-2016, 05:06 PM
Thanks everyone for the help and advice. that's one of the reasons I love this site.

I'm going to have to see how many amps the winch pulls. I know this isn't something I'll use every trip, so maybe a good battery is all I need. I still have a little time before I will be ready to buy the motor, so any information/advice i can get just helps build a better buggy. I admit that the extra power of a V-twin is very appealing. I am wondering if the other V-twin motors (Brigs, Honda, etc) have some sort of charging system and if it is worth the extra money to go that route. Also, has anyone had any issues with the idle speed of the HF V-twin? I read last night that the Idle speed was 1800rpm. I will have to do some checking but I believe the torque converters I have engage at approx 1000rpm's. Now I am wondering if the torque converter would still be engaged while idling. Has anyone dealt with this before and if this is a problem, was there an easy solution? Could the engine idle speed be reduced? How much could it be reduced and not have the engine stall out while idling? How easy is it to adjust the torque converter?

03-08-2016, 10:45 PM
All of the industrial engines that come with a starter have a charging circuit. Even the engines that don't have a starter frequently have the circuit, since a starter is an accessory. All of the V-twin engines are ready-to-roll, with a starter, voltage regulator, etc.

I looked at the Harbor Freight info on the V-twin and it didn't specify the amperage of the charging circuit. Since it's probably a clone of the Honda V-twin, then I would expect it to match the Honda engine.

The idle is controlled by the %@$# governor. On most governors, there is a screw that will adjust the idle up/down, but if you disconnect it, then it's a moot point. Without the governor, the engine should idle at 750-800 rpm with no problems.

I would recommend that you check out affordablegokarts.com. They make a living modifying industrial engines (especially Honda clone engines) for go kart racing. They show how to disconnect the governor and fabricate your own throttle linkage. It's very inspiring to peruse the products they offer and check out their performance tips. They are also the ones who inspired me to replace my B&S (or is it BS?) carburetor on my V-twin with a Mikuni. :cool:

03-08-2016, 11:05 PM
After riding in and getting to drive rgvkid's buggy, I can tell you I'm impressed with his v-twin. The torque it makes is impressive and his clutching seems to be really dialed in. It's not brutal on acceleration but it pulls solidly from a standstill to top end (50+). It was a lot more reactive than I expected too.

09-09-2016, 04:25 AM
I know it's been a while since I have posted, new kid will do that sort of thing. Amazing how your free time becomes anything but free. I went ahead and purchased the Home Depot Honda Clone engine and have been searching the internet for ideas on modifications to increase performance. With any luck, I hope to have some time (may only be a few hours) in the next few weeks to work on the kart. When I do get the chance, I'll be sure to post some more pictures.