View Full Version : Tut minilite car

09-19-2014, 05:02 PM
Could anybody steer me in the right direction. Been searching for a build thread of a tut frame with a busa engine. Tut told me there was one. Having some fitting issues and wondering if I could get some info from it. Thanks

09-20-2014, 12:56 AM
Hit the home, go down till you see Tut Tech group

09-20-2014, 11:51 AM
There's nothing there. Tuts build is the only build thread there. I've been looking went through the projects in progress clicking almost everyone till I got to tuts first build. Figured there wouldn't be one before that. Since its the first one:). I ask tut he said there was a build with a busa. Just hoping somebody knows where or who it is.

09-20-2014, 04:32 PM
Hey slikrider, you may pm projectx. He has a tut frame with a busa in it

09-21-2014, 01:54 PM
Awesome thanks

09-21-2014, 04:54 PM
What fitment issues are you having? Pic would help.

10-25-2014, 01:29 AM
Ok so I checked the rpm for placement. I did a rough angle check for the axles and I'm at about 23 degrees. At full droop the rpm cv's will be a 1/4" in front of the hub. Is that correct placement on trailing arms. I had someone say that it should be to the rear of hubs. If the rpm can go behind hub center line at droop then I will have the room. But as of now motor won't fit. So I'm thinking of removing the cross bar the head is hitting. So I'm wondering if I'm missing somthing simple here.http://imagizer.imageshack.com/img910/8535/HEgGXK.jpghttp://imagizer.imageshack.com/img661/4539/DTegV5.jpghttp://imagizer.imageshack.com/img538/1189/tF6tuM.jpg

10-25-2014, 02:43 AM
Can you mount the engine lower? Route the exhaust to the side and the oil pan between the frame rails.

And as far as the build with a busa, I believe the one you have is the one.

Also, would you mind sharing some measurements. Your frame looks different from mine. Like the "torsion tube" that the trailing arms mount off of. Yours look like they mount wider. Also the frame rails in the radar look wider than mine too. How wide are you axles?

10-25-2014, 03:53 AM
I will get some measurement tomorrow. The pic with the green lines is one of tuts cars. When I mentioned adding bends to raise the tube that was tuts suggestion. I've got ahold of projectX but he mounted his differently. I think he rides mostly in the dunes so his rpm box hangs below the frame and has only one pivot at the bottom.

I haven't purchased the axles yet I can get a rough measurement.

Can the rpm be mounted behind the hub centerline or will that cause to much play for the axles. From what I remembered reading I thought for sure it was supposed to be in front of hub center always. About how much play can you get out of axles.

As for the engine even with the oil drain plug hanging out the bottom the head still hits the upper bar. That why I'm thinking of removing it. Even thought about having the fire wall shaped to allow the engine to move forward even more.

10-25-2014, 04:03 AM
This is how X did his. I like the single pivot on the bottom. And thought about Doin the same but drilling a hole through the frame then welding in a a 1/2" tube into the frame. I just don't know where I'm going wrong with this. I see pics like this and he has so much room between the motor and rpm and motor to fire wall.http://imagizer.imageshack.com/img674/7715/YHp1yF.jpghttp://imagizer.imageshack.com/img674/4223/bFcsCD.jpg

10-25-2014, 08:50 AM
Cvs inline at full droop, at least that's what I've always read .
Make up a dummy axle and see how far back you can go while checking plunge.

10-25-2014, 01:31 PM
I'm using a protodie adjustable spool. The rear sprocket has like 2" of adjustment. In its rear most setting, it's just even with the hub at full droop.

The way understand it is if you'll have too much plunge if its behind.

Can you tilt the motor a little to clear the head?

10-25-2014, 01:42 PM
I'm not sure that the c/l of the flanges have to be aligned at any particular point. I could be very wrong. Let me see if I can explain (coffee's not kicked in).

The outboard ends of the axles will travel in an arc during suspension cycling. The center of the arc will be the center line of the pivot point of the trailing arms.

If the trans is forward of the c/l of the hubs, the axle will make an arc (of sorts - it's radius changes - short leg will be at horizontal) that has it's center at the inner CV pivot point and follows the trailing arm's arc.

If the trans is rear of the c/l of the hubs, it's still going to make the same sort of arc, it's just going to be more obtuse of an angle than forward. The motion of the axle (plunge) is still going to be similar.

There may be torque issues having the trans rearward, maybe? :confused: I can't see why it would induce it, but???

The more off center from the outer hubs, the less angular change you'll see in the CV joints. If it's all perpendicular to the c/l of the car, you'll end up with the most plunge. Moving the trans forward or rearward will lessen this. Ideally the axles would pivot on the same plane as the trailing arms and you'd end up with no plunge, but really LONG axles, a rear engine setup and wild CV angles.

Does any of this pre-coffee rambling make sense?

Where's bdkw when you need him? - stuck in Kansas, that's where!

10-25-2014, 01:52 PM
Ahhh...i remember now...your pre coffee made me remember...cv angles, not plunge. And the hub even with the trans had to do with getting max droop for max travel.

So slik, do you have your rear shocks? How are you determining full droop? I would wait till you have a pair of cvs, your axles, and shocks before mounting your rpm.

10-25-2014, 02:04 PM
I think I understand what your saying. My brain has been hurting.

So what I did to figure this out. I took the car and lowered it to 3" off the ground. Collapsed the shocks and mad a temporary mount. Then raised the car to full droop. Set the rpm in place at c/l of hubs. Lowered the rpm as deep in the frame as possible for better cv angle. At full droop with my angle finder I had about 23-24 degrees for the axles. The problem I was seeing is that if I install the engine first then the rpm wouldn't fit.

So if i read that correctly kfab I have the rpm where it needs to be yes? So if it is then I will just have to make the engine fit. Hell maybe ill mount the engine on the hood. Then ill have a long chain life:D

Thanks for the help guys. This simple task is kicking my ass.

10-27-2014, 04:15 PM
Noclue. I was wondering about the order to set this up. Tut told me that also about the shocks. Where I ran into a problem, how do you find c/l on the hubs to mount the rpm. I was wondering at what point you start. I can't find c/l on hubs without the shocks to give me an idea of droop. Am I thinking of this right. Or should I go about it differently. When I mount the shocks should full bump be where they bottom or make it so the car can almost hit the ground and add bump stops.

I asked this on my build thread also. If I was to extend the trailing arms a couple inches would that change any of the angles for the hub plate. As long as I keep it at the same angles just add longer tubes on the trailing arms everything should keep the same angle through its travel.

10-28-2014, 10:57 AM
I would wait until you have all the parts for the rear. Cv's (at least 2), axle (at least one), trans, shock or shocks, and hub. Using cv and axles, temporarily place trans, figure out full droop or close to it. Move trans for placement, check cv angles. Then figure out shock mounts. On mine, the shock limits the droop...I ended up with about 2" of space between the frame and ground. (Less under the rear sprocket).