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bryzoe
03-16-2014, 05:12 PM
I have already completed the Basic SS 1000 frame. I purchased the plans on CD from Jody @ Protodie, Really good and easy to follow, highly detailed. I used a JD2 tubing notcher which allowed me to make every joint and offset notch the plans called for; a great tool. I purchased the 200' of steel tubing (1 1/2 .095 erw) @ the local metal shop in 20' sticks. I asked around and found a guy who races at the local dirt track who has a tubing bender and we worked out a deal. So here is what I have come up with so far...

I have reams of pictures of the frame build. I formated the jpg's to 640 x 480 pixels, they are under 200 KB when I try to attach them the attachment manager says upload failed. What do I need to do to post pics?

Lug-Nuts
03-16-2014, 07:11 PM
Use photobucket download you pics there and then click the link on the photobucket website it will automatically copy it. Then click the yellow square with the mountain on it in the reply and paste the link in there. Thats all!

ProtoDie
03-17-2014, 06:52 AM
Bryzoe, [smilie=welcome.gif]
Glad your build is going well.

Looking forward to seeing some build pics

Xbird
03-17-2014, 09:36 AM
For an attachment, largest dimension on pics has to be 600 or under. that will give you a clickable thumbnail link. P-bucket is the easier way to go once you get used to it.

Martinm210
03-17-2014, 12:04 PM
I had issues with attaching as well. Anymore I find it most convenient just to use my iphone.

Steps are:
1) Take photo with iphone
2) Use "simple resize" app to reduce to 640x480 or as desired. Select from library and select 640x480.
3) Use "uploadr" app, it uploads to the public imageshack server and then copies the url to the cliboard.
4)In post click on the image icon or type the IMG tags and paste the url.

Works really slick and no need for a computer..just to apps on the phone.

Alternatively, I use my wordpress blog to upload media then copy/paste he url but only after I download/resize from my camera. The iphone and apps is super fast.

Up north
03-17-2014, 02:58 PM
I like to use photo bucket as well. Up load your pictures, then choose which you want to post on here. It will look like this screen.
http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p731/Upnorth2013/83C8579E-E287-45CC-8C3C-EB15D23E1ECA-7812-00000ADCA2CBF669_zpscaf0f5f8.jpg

On the right bottom corner there is a white circle with an " i " in it, click it and it will look like this screen.

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p731/Upnorth2013/BE90BADC-B293-41F1-B771-C70FB8E3B820-7812-00000ADD16DD3C57_zps1bbd5206.jpg

Click the IMG and it will say "copied" then come to minibuggy and paste. It sounds confusing but once you do it once it's no big deal. Doing it this way there is no resizing involved, no icons on minibuggy to click on, nothing! Copy and paste. Good luck!

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:35 PM
Thanks to all for your suggestions I think I got it.
I kind of goofed up using one picture per post I thought that was how one did it.

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:38 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000143_zpsf4179814.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000143_zpsf4179814.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:39 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000144_zps1aab73ac.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000144_zps1aab73ac.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:40 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000153_zps3f1671ed.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000153_zps3f1671ed.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:41 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000155_zps1644097e.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000155_zps1644097e.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:42 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000157_zpse50eccc9.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000157_zpse50eccc9.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:42 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000160_zps4b35f47f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000160_zps4b35f47f.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:43 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000162_zps24978ea9.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000162_zps24978ea9.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:44 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000163_zpsf493eee5.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000163_zpsf493eee5.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:44 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000165_zps6673aae5.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000165_zps6673aae5.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:45 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000172_zps13290ed4.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000172_zps13290ed4.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:46 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000173_zps21cae253.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000173_zps21cae253.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:47 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000208_zps750b3942.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000208_zps750b3942.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:50 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000218_zps506ff166.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000218_zps506ff166.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:51 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000220_zpsad3ea16a.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000220_zpsad3ea16a.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:51 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000224_zpsda399863.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000224_zpsda399863.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:53 PM
Using the Protdie A arms to tack in A arm mounting tabs


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000228_zps35576b4b.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000228_zps35576b4b.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:55 PM
I like to use jigs and spacers for accurate building

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000229_zps746d83f6.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000229_zps746d83f6.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:56 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000232_zpsdc88656f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000232_zpsdc88656f.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 08:57 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000236_zpsf0f574c1.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000236_zpsf0f574c1.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 09:01 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000239_zps9779a4f2.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000239_zps9779a4f2.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000244_zps15d4575c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000244_zps15d4575c.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000247_zps9774d53c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000247_zps9774d53c.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000250_zps0c8c76d0.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000250_zps0c8c76d0.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000262_zps3903a2e8.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000262_zps3903a2e8.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 09:27 PM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000264_zps7f63450c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000264_zps7f63450c.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000266_zpsc699cca7.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000266_zpsc699cca7.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000267_zpsee0a4ea0.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000267_zpsee0a4ea0.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000275_zps736db846.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000275_zps736db846.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000280_zpsd4514230.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000280_zpsd4514230.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000282_zpsbe2c5396.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000282_zpsbe2c5396.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000283_zps72ccdb72.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000283_zps72ccdb72.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000284_zps8cc53a04.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000284_zps8cc53a04.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000285_zps355c8276.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000285_zps355c8276.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000288_zps39a263ed.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000288_zps39a263ed.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000290_zps0a809205.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000290_zps0a809205.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000292_zpsdd9988bc.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000292_zpsdd9988bc.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000293_zps8b098675.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000293_zps8b098675.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000299_zpsaa728775.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000299_zpsaa728775.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000301_zps7fc3dac9.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000301_zps7fc3dac9.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000303_zps823a4f5c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000303_zps823a4f5c.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000309_zpsa213b521.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000309_zpsa213b521.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/P1000310_zps15126da2.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/P1000310_zps15126da2.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-17-2014, 09:54 PM
Thats enough for tonight. The frame build has three more sets of pictures to come (Rear shock mounts, A-arms & hubs, and Rims,) Once I dump all my frame build pictures I'll be up to my current build level, and this is where I'll value some good discussion, and technical advice regarding specific questions and issues.

I also have some left over parts, stuff I collected as the scope of my project changed, that may be of interest to some.

PS If I'm flooding this thread with too many pictures let me know I can lean it out.

Thanks

Xbird
03-17-2014, 10:12 PM
Can never have too many pics! Really nice work.

Akpilot
03-18-2014, 12:17 AM
Very nice work, love Proto's cars. Wouldn't it be nice if one could build in real time as fast as your posting:). Nice being able to purchase the a-arms complete and using them to jig, did you also purchased the engine cradle as well?

Ak

Martinm210
03-18-2014, 05:40 AM
Nice work! What laser did you use to check centerline with?

ProtoDie
03-18-2014, 06:28 AM
Very nice work and great pics. [smilie=rockout3.gi:

your notches look,,,,,, well ,,top notch :)

NinjaRaptor
03-18-2014, 08:44 AM
Moving right along on the build, very cool.

Duane
03-18-2014, 09:00 AM
Thanks for the massive post! Your work is impressive. Jodie's design is one stout lookin frame. Your shop is huge. I see much cabinet making tooling. Do you make your living in that line of work? Keep it up. Your thread will be a popular one.

MrBracket
03-18-2014, 02:12 PM
Too many pics??? Ha Ha Ha!!!! never heard anything so funny!!!! No such thing!!!

Another PNW buggy!!!! YeeeeeeeHaw!!! I see some fun Washington/Oregon buggy runs in the near future!! [smilie=rockout3.gi:

Jeep401
03-18-2014, 02:18 PM
That will be fun!

bryzoe
03-18-2014, 10:03 PM
Hi,

AKpilot, what your seeing is 10 months of working saving working saving...I purchased the a-arms from protodie and the engine cradle, I plan on using all the protodie pre made/engineered parts I can.

Martinm210- the laser is a Craftsman 4 in one construction laser level featuring "laser trac" on loan from a budy.

Thanks Protodie and NinjaRaptor

Duane, the shops my dads and he's semi retired, & lettin me use a corner. I grew up working in the shop. Today however I make my living as an automotive tech. I always was more interested in metal.

Mr Bracket the first place I'm heading upon completion is Oregon dunes!



Now Back to the


Pictures

bryzoe
03-18-2014, 10:14 PM
Here Is the Tail end of the frame build, I forgot my camera on one session so the roll bar cross support and the engine cradle rear support are not showcased

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000311_zpsa1f23b5f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000311_zpsa1f23b5f.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000312_zpsf4215e84.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000312_zpsf4215e84.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000322_zps02c4c5f8.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000322_zps02c4c5f8.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000324_zps5d91ccf8.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000324_zps5d91ccf8.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000325_zpsb7403142.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000325_zpsb7403142.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000326_zpsc26f43a9.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000326_zpsc26f43a9.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000328_zps5f743edb.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000328_zps5f743edb.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000336_zpsebf0dffd.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000336_zpsebf0dffd.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000342_zps1f7e299c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000342_zps1f7e299c.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000346_zps214a74bb.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rear%20Shock%20Mounts/P1000346_zps214a74bb.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-19-2014, 09:20 PM
Here is the the ss 1000 with front and rear hubs and steering, from Protodie

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000366_zps7fc2df5c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000366_zps7fc2df5c.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000368_zps4007fc6c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000368_zps4007fc6c.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000369_zps046f443f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000369_zps046f443f.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000370_zps61ad0494.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000370_zps61ad0494.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000382_zps1cdf083f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000382_zps1cdf083f.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000383_zps3062122f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000383_zps3062122f.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000384_zps78c5b384.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000384_zps78c5b384.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000387_zps19b6b642.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000387_zps19b6b642.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000395_zps28feab01.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000395_zps28feab01.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000396_zpsb154e51d.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/A%20arms%20and%20Hubs/P1000396_zpsb154e51d.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-19-2014, 09:49 PM
Finally the rims ITP C7 beadlocks 12'' 2+5 rear and 5+2 front. this is as far as I have gotten so far. Now its time to save and plan next move...

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000397_zps22cd522d.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000397_zps22cd522d.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000398_zpseb1de4f0.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000398_zpseb1de4f0.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000399_zps5f6fe99e.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000399_zps5f6fe99e.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000459_zps26978867.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000459_zps26978867.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000460_zps855bcbbb.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000460_zps855bcbbb.jpg.html)

5+2 Front

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000461_zps805200c6.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000461_zps805200c6.jpg.html)

2+5 Rear

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000462_zps2d8b02f5.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000462_zps2d8b02f5.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000463_zps35126a10.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000463_zps35126a10.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000464_zpsec073eb3.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000464_zpsec073eb3.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000466_zps8413fc98.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000466_zps8413fc98.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000467_zpscac8e2ea.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000467_zpscac8e2ea.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000468_zpsedf1312c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000468_zpsedf1312c.jpg.html)

That concludes this portion of this build.

bryzoe
03-19-2014, 09:58 PM
Finally the rims ITP C7 beadlocks 12'' 2+5 rear and 5+2 front. this is as far as I have gotten so far. Now its time to save and plan next move...

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000397_zps22cd522d.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000397_zps22cd522d.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000398_zpseb1de4f0.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000398_zpseb1de4f0.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000399_zps5f6fe99e.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000399_zps5f6fe99e.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000459_zps26978867.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000459_zps26978867.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000460_zps855bcbbb.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000460_zps855bcbbb.jpg.html)

5+2 Front

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000461_zps805200c6.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000461_zps805200c6.jpg.html)

2+5 Rear

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000462_zps2d8b02f5.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000462_zps2d8b02f5.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000463_zps35126a10.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000463_zps35126a10.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000464_zpsec073eb3.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000464_zpsec073eb3.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000466_zps8413fc98.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000466_zps8413fc98.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000467_zpscac8e2ea.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000467_zpscac8e2ea.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Rims/P1000468_zpsedf1312c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Rims/P1000468_zpsedf1312c.jpg.html)

That concludes this portion of this build.

ProtoDie
03-20-2014, 07:13 AM
Looking great !
your doing a killer job on this one [smilie=rockout3.gi:

fabdaddy
03-20-2014, 08:23 AM
WOW :eek: this is soooo cool . to see one of jodys masterpieces come togeather so quickly its like instant gratification. It looks so tough with the rims on it . great job . hurry up and save mo money so I can continue to get my build fix. your work is impeckable.

Duane
03-20-2014, 08:53 AM
WOW :eek: this is soooo cool . to see one of jodys masterpieces come togeather so quickly its like instant gratification. It looks so tough with the rims on it . great job . hurry up and save mo money so I can continue to get my build fix. your work is impeckable.

X2! How hard it will be for you to look at this sitting there and not be able to advance the build? Maybe armed robbery is an option for more build coin?

Up north
03-20-2014, 10:13 AM
This looks excellent!!!

Martinm210
03-20-2014, 11:02 AM
Dang, that was WAY too fast and WAY too perfect.
An how the heck do you keep your shop so clean!

Looks mean just sitting there, super awesome work!!

Akpilot
03-20-2014, 12:35 PM
Very nice, I know what my next move would be if I were in your shoes. Get seat so I can make engine noises ;)

Ak

poordad
03-20-2014, 05:11 PM
nice work

I am looking forward to seeing one of these buggys in person and having another one close to home makes it more likely :cool:

welcome, cant wait to see the finished product

bryzoe
03-20-2014, 11:12 PM
Thanks folks the positive response is very encouraging!

I have a question regarding engine selection, Obviously 07-08 gsxr 1000 would bolt right in and probably be quick, what about 2 people say an additional 400 lbs, still quick?.

I like the idea of the gsxr 1300 busa motor for power torque etc seems like it might be easier to pilot with two people w/o having to rap it out to get the power, but I dont Know. Also its not just a drop in. I'm wondering how compatible/ feasable this would be. Does anybody have busa dimensions for A,X & Z


Dimension "A" Upper motor mount to Center of drive sprocket as viewed from rear of motor

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/engine%20questions/sprockettomount_zps18f98199.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/engine%20questions/sprockettomount_zps18f98199.jpg.html)


Dimension X Motor mount width upper/Lower

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/engine%20questions/uppermount_zpsfea8db5e.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/engine%20questions/uppermount_zpsfea8db5e.jpg.html)

Dimension Z Motor mount spacing

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/engine%20questions/upperlower_zpsd0178aab.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/engine%20questions/upperlower_zpsd0178aab.jpg.html)

bryzoe
03-20-2014, 11:23 PM
I seem to have doubled up on my pictures, How do I edit and remove the doubled segment without leaving blank panes?

EvoMak
05-07-2014, 02:35 PM
I am a bit surprised to see the input to the rack and pinion vertical with respect to the ground plane... Somehow I forged the idea the input shaft had to be horizontal , but in my build I believe itīd fit better vertically. Are there pros / cons for the vertical configuration (like stress or play in the heims / heim spreader) or it does not matter at all?

ProtoDie
05-07-2014, 04:38 PM
it does not matter but easier to achieve proper angles in this design for the steering shafts and U joints by going vertical.

Actually the rack and pinions in all our models are run vertical

TALON
05-07-2014, 09:33 PM
Hey Bryzone great looking build, missed it earlier , not used to looking in the new sub forums yet .

Great to see some of Jody's cars being built .

I dont have those busa measurements for you handy but i have fitted one to a Proto cradle no probs.
Not sure about fire wall clearance as it was in a different chassis , but i have compared a few of the litre engines and the hyper ones and there is not as much size diff as you would think . I did post some measurements for Tut once in his threads in the motor section somewhere.

To mount the busa i removed the bolt on mount assy from the cradle and positioned the engine where i wanted, then fabbed up some individual mounts to pic up each rear point and spaced and bushed them accordingly, quite simple really.

I have some pics posted somewhere here i think , i will try to find them for you .

Cheers

bryzoe
05-20-2014, 01:47 AM
Talon, sorry about delay been preocupied with ebay looking for engine, low mileage 07-08 liter gixers going for busa prices so Iam seriously considering the 1300. I'm comfortable mounting the engine to the cradle and fabbing my own mounts as you describe, the crux of the issue is the fire wall and exhaust routing. If you have any comparison dimensions on the two motors I would be grateful. I can also put up some dimensions of the engine compartment and maybe the picture will become clearer.
Thanks for responding .

TALON
05-22-2014, 02:06 AM
Surprised on the gixer prices, usually a fair bit cheaper than the hypers around here.

Ok so dont have ready access to the Bussa car but the frame is the same as mine and i can tell you that on horizontal plane from the upper rear frame mount on the cradle to the mid rail on my firewall is 1000 mm and a busa motor fit in with a bit to spare.

But as i said i removed the front mount tank support of the Proto cradle to give a bit more room .

I think Howie is coming to the track this weekend so i will check it out and take some pics .

bryzoe
05-22-2014, 10:21 PM
Here is a rough diagram of my engine compartment with the Gsxr1000 mount removed







http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/engine%20questions/P1000527_zpsce13a59f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/engine%20questions/P1000527_zpsce13a59f.jpg.html)

TALON
05-23-2014, 12:05 AM
That upper measurement on mine is around 550 mm but my firewall slopes back at around 8 deg , so at the critical point , [ cam cover , top of cyl head ] it is a bit less than that .

Having said that there is some clearance at the front of the Bussa motor .
As i said pretty sure he will be at the track on Sat so i will have a look for you .

My gut feeling is you will get it in there but it will be tight, even a cradle trim maybe.

Have you asked Jody if anyone else has done it ? Would have thought someone would have jammed one in by now .

ProtoDie
05-23-2014, 10:30 AM
I have been told by a lot of customers that they fit a Busa to the cradle.
can't keep track of whos doing what with what anymore LOL

I was told several times it was an easy fit to the cradle.

Now I think several of those were building to the plans, but once again,,, don't have any more info than that or remember which customer was building to what motor.
I had thought the Busa was similar to the 1000 front to back dimensionally but that it was wider.

cant say for sure.

But it is only steel,,,, I bet you can cut and fit one in there :D

bryzoe
05-23-2014, 11:04 PM
I have some concern about creating a custom motor mount for the cradle which sets the motor further back shortening the chain length to the rpm gearbox. How critical is this? They do make a 19 tooth front sprocet for the busa and if I run a 19 tooth or larger on the rpm maybe it'd be ok as long as the gearing works out.

If I have to start modifying the fire wall thats another story.

Hey Jody, I was just curious why the fire wall has the offset verticle bar?

bryzoe
05-23-2014, 11:11 PM
By the way if I could find a complete 07-08 low mileage gsxr1000 engine kit for around $2500 shipped that would be ok Three grand and above for an K7-K8 is kind of crap.

ProtoDie
05-26-2014, 09:56 PM
I have some concern about creating a custom motor mount for the cradle which sets the motor further back shortening the chain length to the rpm gearbox. How critical is this? They do make a 19 tooth front sprocet for the busa and if I run a 19 tooth or larger on the rpm maybe it'd be ok as long as the gearing works out.

If I have to start modifying the fire wall thats another story.

Hey Jody, I was just curious why the fire wall has the offset verticle bar?


The firewall vertical tubes line up with engine plates that bolt to the sides of the GSXR1000 engine.
this helps support the motor.

yes the longer the chain the better.... or the cooler it will run and last longer.
its all a compromise though. Unless you are running a long distance race or something I would not be so concerned with the chain life.
can always add a fan too

bryzoe
05-26-2014, 10:15 PM
Ok great, thanks for the info Jody

bryzoe
06-23-2014, 01:35 AM
Well I finaly came up with and engine...Kind of.
I purchased a 2012 gsxr 1000 engine kit with 1700 miles, the clutch cover case was removed. The seller said he removed it and put it on another bike. It lookes to me like the case was smashed and the pieces of the cover and stator sensor signal generator wire ended up in the tranny.

Heres what the motor looked like shipped in a rubbermaid bin with no padding

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/P1000536_zps222456d8.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/P1000536_zps222456d8.jpg.html)

Great Dissapointment:

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/P1000548_zpsbfd93d0f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/P1000548_zpsbfd93d0f.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/P1000549_zps81dc1238.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/P1000549_zps81dc1238.jpg.html)

bryzoe
06-23-2014, 01:46 AM
So after a bunch of hassle with ebay and the seller we arrived at a suitable discount.

I purchased the shop manual and am going to look into splitting the cases and inspecting tranny and gears, oil passages etc. This is not an ideal situation but I am interested in learning as much as i can about my motor.

Since I have never done this procedure on a motorcycle engine I would welcome advice from folks who have. I also am going to get an estimate from my local suzuki dealer and some indy shops.

Ps 2012 engine mounts are 9"on center rather than 9 1/4" and the oil pan is shifted to the right side to accomodate 4-2-1 exhaust. Not direct fit to Protodie engine cradle, but not out of the question.

Beruba
06-23-2014, 03:37 PM
If you need to modified the header its made of titanium. It require a special procedure.
1- need to be clean, clean, clean.
2- purge inside the header with pure argon
3- shielding gas coverage when the metal is over 800 f.
4- You need a start device on the tig welder no scratch start on titanium.

Its not that hard to weld look it up online there is a lot of info.

Deranged
06-23-2014, 04:39 PM
You sir are correct.. I bet there is more set up time involved than the actual welding part of it. Welds like BUTTAH though.

Justin

bryzoe
06-24-2014, 12:15 AM
I didn't realize the header weld was so technical. Thanks for the heads up for proper technique. Can a guy do the argon shielding process and use a mig set up?

TALON
06-24-2014, 12:27 AM
I didn't realize the header weld was so technical. Thanks for the heads up for proper technique. Can a guy do the argon shielding process and use a mig set up?


Dont think you would wanna pay for a roll of Ti wire ,, use A TIG and you can by filler rods in low volume off the net . I think last time i just bought a pack of 10 .

JD66
06-24-2014, 04:36 PM
Bryzoe, I read your thread a bit too late, looks like you have a motor. I am running Jody's engine cradle with a 2009 Busa motor. If you need dimensions or pictures in the future, let me know. Was pretty straightforward to setup.

bryzoe
06-26-2014, 12:57 AM
Talon

I have never tig welded and am unfamiliar with the basic equipment. Thanks for the tip though- probably have to have a budy help me with the header weld.

bryzoe
06-26-2014, 01:01 AM
Justindutton66 are you running the proto cradle in a protodie ss 1000 frame or different config?
I would be curious to see what you did to accomodate the busa to the cradle.

TALON
06-26-2014, 01:31 AM
Talon

I have never tig welded and am unfamiliar with the basic equipment. Thanks for the tip though- probably have to have a budy help me with the header weld.


Well as deranged stated it welds nice just take extra time to make the joints a nice fit as the head pipes are thin and you dont wana be trying to fill gaps with the stuff, make sure everything is super clean ,, use scotch brite and acetone .

If your buddy is half proficient with a TIG he should have no probs,although a gas lens is advisable and go slow , bit by bit and let it cool properly with plenty of gas post flow and dont move the torch away until each puddle is fully cooled.

I have done a couple when the joint is perfect without an internal gas purge and it has lasted fine ,, it is not ideal but can be done .

JD66
06-26-2014, 03:25 AM
I'm running my own cage. Made my own adapter plates that bolt between the protodie engine cradle and the motor, then made aluminum spacers as needed to take up a few gaps.

Also, I have a middle tube in the firewall. There's a bend in it to clear the cylinder head.

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/justindutton66/Buggy/EngCradle1_zps1c8c762f.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/justindutton66/media/Buggy/EngCradle1_zps1c8c762f.jpg.html)

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/justindutton66/Buggy/EngCradle3_zpsf7077d25.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/justindutton66/media/Buggy/EngCradle3_zpsf7077d25.jpg.html)

http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/justindutton66/Buggy/Firewall_zpsc39b5678.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/justindutton66/media/Buggy/Firewall_zpsc39b5678.jpg.html)

bryzoe
06-26-2014, 11:54 PM
Well as deranged stated it welds nice just take extra time to make the joints a nice fit as the head pipes are thin and you dont wana be trying to fill gaps with the stuff, make sure everything is super clean ,, use scotch brite and acetone .

If your buddy is half proficient with a TIG he should have no probs,although a gas lens is advisable and go slow , bit by bit and let it cool properly with plenty of gas post flow and dont move the torch away until each puddle is fully cooled.

I have done a couple when the joint is perfect without an internal gas purge and it has lasted fine ,, it is not ideal but can be done .

Thanks for the advice talon

bryzoe
06-27-2014, 12:01 AM
Thanks for the pics justindutton66. Looks like a simple and elegant solution to the mounting issue. Was it tricky to calculate the spacer dimension to align the motor sprocket and the rpm sprocket?

TALON
06-27-2014, 01:57 AM
Thanks for the pics justindutton66. Looks like a simple and elegant solution to the mounting issue. Was it tricky to calculate the spacer dimension to align the motor sprocket and the rpm sprocket?


If you just let the motor float on the bolt/shafts and position for alignment then measure the offsets is a good way if you are using full width mount bots.

JD66
06-27-2014, 12:44 PM
Yep, exactly what Talon said. I believe my lower passenger side mount does not have a spacer, there are spacers in the 3 other locations. The RPM box has a number of spacers on the input shaft too so you can move the sprocket in/out along the input shaft if needed.

bryzoe
06-28-2014, 01:23 AM
OK great, that makes sense, Its good to hear there is adjustment in the rpm input shaft as well.

bryzoe
07-06-2014, 08:20 PM
I decided to mock up some temporary mounts to see how well my L2 gsxr 1000 motor fits in the engine cradle. I had to get creative to set the spacing for my temp brackets. The verticle idea worked out nicely.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000567_zps1f9e6c40.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000567_zps1f9e6c40.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000568_zps1cadb7ca.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000568_zps1cadb7ca.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000569_zpsd160ff1c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000569_zpsd160ff1c.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000571_zpsb4694844.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000571_zpsb4694844.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000574_zps0fa1b96b.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000574_zps0fa1b96b.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000575_zpsd5be8345.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000575_zpsd5be8345.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000577_zpsf74a6688.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000577_zpsf74a6688.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000578_zpsdfc04f66.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000578_zpsdfc04f66.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000581_zpsd2809ef3.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000581_zpsd2809ef3.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000582_zpsd2816e13.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000582_zpsd2816e13.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000585_zpsf555c782.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000585_zpsf555c782.jpg.html)

Bansheebrigade
08-02-2014, 04:44 AM
Woah looking good! I just found your build thread. Its very cool to see someone from my area post a build on here. Have fun on the build!

ProtoDie
08-02-2014, 10:43 AM
nice job fitting the engine,,,,, Looks good

whole build looks good :D

bryzoe
08-07-2014, 11:07 PM
Thanks guys!

Hey jody I was just about to order The RPM box, looks like it went up a little guess i'll order next week or following week. I calculated that the 4.7:1 ratio would work the best for the gsxr 1000 motor Is this the gearing you run for the ss 1000?

Let me Know

Thanks

ProtoDie
08-08-2014, 10:46 AM
I run 3.9 4.7 or 5.4

with different sprockets you can make them all work

most of the time I run 3.9 or 4.7 with 26" tires

TALON
08-08-2014, 12:55 PM
We are running the RPM's at 3.9 on a r1,cbr1000,and a 02 bussa with a 1 size up from standard on the bike output and the same size on the rpm input and they just idle off on the clutch perfectly just like your car should and run to 100 mph ish . No sand though or steep climbs.25 and 26 " Tires.

bryzoe
08-09-2014, 02:53 AM
I think I like the idea of the middle ratio (4.7:1) Mostly interested in dunes and hill climb action. With different sprockets it sounds like I can custom taylor to suit my needs, You guys ever run a tooth off on output and input sprockets to either reduce or increase gear ratio?

bryzoe
09-01-2014, 06:06 PM
I orderd the RPM gear box Aug 12 so i'm anxiously waiting,

In the meantime I finished cleaning and inspecting my motor and acquired all the parts, Just under 400 for parts and fasteners, sort of a learning curve thing, I tried to save a buck ended up with a lot of hassle and extra time tracking down correct parts etc. Should have bought complete.



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000592_zps5db6959d.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000592_zps5db6959d.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000588_zps77d22433.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000588_zps77d22433.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000587_zpsf6748e1c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000587_zpsf6748e1c.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000594_zpsd226e28f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000594_zpsd226e28f.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000596_zpse8a57f92.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/GSXR%201000%20L2/Assymbled%20engine/P1000596_zpse8a57f92.jpg.html)

bryzoe
09-01-2014, 06:18 PM
I plan on starting my exhaust once the rpm arrives so I can route it properly.
I would like to route a single exhaust out the middle under the fuel cell (I plan on purchasing a protodie fuel cell) Not sure of the clearance though, or other heat issues.

The exhaust on the 2012 L2 Gsxr 1000 turns out to be stainless, a ferretic stainless most likely 409 ti. this is a relief because it is "migable" with ER 409 NB wire which I can pick up in a 2lb roll for under 30 bucks. I believe I can even use C25 gas, Although I do have a bottle of tri gas mix.

Bullnerd
09-01-2014, 06:38 PM
Looks good.

Are you building a buggy in a woodshop?

bryzoe
09-04-2014, 09:47 PM
Looks good.

Are you building a buggy in a woodshop?


Yes, yes I am.

NinjaRaptor
09-04-2014, 09:55 PM
I plan on starting my exhaust once the rpm arrives so I can route it properly.
I would like to route a single exhaust out the middle under the fuel cell (I plan on purchasing a protodie fuel cell) Not sure of the clearance though, or other heat issues.

The exhaust on the 2012 L2 Gsxr 1000 turns out to be stainless, a ferretic stainless most likely 409 ti. this is a relief because it is "migable" with ER 409 NB wire which I can pick up in a 2lb roll for under 30 bucks. I believe I can even use C25 gas, Although I do have a bottle of tri gas mix.

Build is coming along nicely. I went with a single exhaust setup under the fuel cell, fits just fine. Protodie crafted the pipe between the header and muffler. The muffler is a stock 2001 muffler modified with a spark arrestor. Check out the XK1000 build for more information if you are interested.

bryzoe
09-12-2014, 10:51 PM
Thanks ninja raptor I just talked to Jody and he suggested I check your build thread.

bryzoe
10-08-2014, 12:35 AM
Ok I Got My RPM gear box (3.9:1) so I want to install it in the engine cradle.

I take the map gas and heat up the center allen bolt for a quick second or two and it comes right out no prob. Now what about the cv axle drive flanges? I tried some heat while tensioning with a gear puller but felt like the heat might harm the shaft seals by the time it softens the spline lock, also I didn't want to put too much puller tension on the flange. I took a good look at Beruba's post but didn't find any info on removing the actual flanges. Please let me know a good way to do this.
Thanks.

Beruba
10-08-2014, 01:18 AM
I just use a puller with the bolts threaded in the flange and an air impact no heat.

NinjaRaptor
10-08-2014, 02:07 AM
Second on the puller, that's easiest way to go.

bryzoe
10-09-2014, 02:33 AM
ok thanks guys, sounds like its unanimous on the puller w/o heat... and probably the impact gun. I'll give it a shot.

bryzoe
10-12-2014, 12:40 AM
Yes ! the puller and the impact gun the only way to go



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000603_zps9bbc776c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000603_zps9bbc776c.jpg.html)

bryzoe
10-12-2014, 12:50 AM
OK as far as mounting the rpm I see four holes in the flat aluminum plate, the top holes are approx 1/4" and the bottom 5/16"


The mounting bolts are 3/8", purchased from protodie for mounting the rpm in the engine cradle. Do I need to drill out the holes to 3/8"? or make some sort of bracket ?
If I do drill out the holes it seems like the materiel will be kind of thin on the edge, at least on the 1/4" holes. I'm hoping to get it mounted this weekend.

Rat4020
10-12-2014, 12:26 PM
The top holes in my RPM are 5/16 I cant remember if I drilled them out or not , but anyhoo there is plenty of meat to drill them out to 5/16....:D
P.S I like yer IR231 impact . Dam good impact for the $$$

NinjaRaptor
10-12-2014, 12:53 PM
OK as far as mounting the rpm I see four holes in the flat aluminum plate, the top holes are approx 1/4" and the bottom 5/16"


The mounting bolts are 3/8", purchased from protodie for mounting the rpm in the engine cradle. Do I need to drill out the holes to 3/8"? or make some sort of bracket ?
If I do drill out the holes it seems like the materiel will be kind of thin on the edge, at least on the 1/4" holes. I'm hoping to get it mounted this weekend.

You have to drill them out, take your time with the holes, especially the top ones since the material is thin at the chamfer.

bryzoe
10-12-2014, 02:23 PM
The top holes in my RPM are 5/16 I cant remember if I drilled them out or not , but anyhoo there is plenty of meat to drill them out to 5/16....:D
P.S I like yer IR231 impact . Dam good impact for the $$$


Yes a staple tool used it virtualy every day for many years!

bryzoe
10-12-2014, 02:26 PM
You have to drill them out, take your time with the holes, especially the top ones since the material is thin at the chamfer.


Thank you, just sort of hesitant to drill new gearbox but if thats the way to go so be it.

Bullnerd
10-12-2014, 02:35 PM
Yes, yes I am.

Don't know how I missed this, Ive been following along. Great job so far.

Sooo...do you own a woodworking business?
Is that your building?
What type of woodworking do you do?

I do have one comment on the frame. At the bottom of the "V" in the doors, is there supposed to be a piece of tube between the lower two tubes?

ProtoDie
10-12-2014, 05:23 PM
yes, drill the RPM holes out to 3/8.

also to what Bullnerd is saying on the frame, I have a 1/4" plate with a hole in it below the side V , between the 2 lower bars.
a short tube is fine too.
But good to add a little something between those lower tubes

ProtoDie
10-12-2014, 05:43 PM
if you look close you can see it here

https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/206433_205293512822206_7184784_n.jpg?oh=02b8f282e4 757707bf203c6f9b4d2851&oe=54AAFBB9

bryzoe
10-12-2014, 11:12 PM
Don't know how I missed this, Ive been following along. Great job so far.

Sooo...do you own a woodworking business?
Is that your building?
What type of woodworking do you do?

I do have one comment on the frame. At the bottom of the "V" in the doors, is there supposed to be a piece of tube between the lower two tubes?

I dont own a woodworking business, but my dad does/did he's semi retired and looking to get rid of his equipment. I worked in his other shops growing up we mostly did custom cabinets for residential. but in the early 90's got a contract with a local b ank (Washington Mutual) and did tons of comercial type stuff.

The building was built by Gary Klein of Klein bicycles which was later bought out by Trek Bicycles and relocated so the building was available for a fraction of the cost. We picked it up and used it for a few years and then sold it to its current owner, who graciously lets us keep the remaining portion of the shop you see in my pictures.

Regarding the frame support I was planning on using some left over 1" tubing at the bottom V. thanks for noticeing

bryzoe
10-12-2014, 11:25 PM
Drillin the RPM




http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000606_zpsce2ed54d.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000606_zpsce2ed54d.jpg.html)


Installin the RPM


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000607_zpsd0308692.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000607_zpsd0308692.jpg.html)



A little confused regarding tensioner


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000610_zps7af74c3e.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/RPM%20Gearbox/P1000610_zps7af74c3e.jpg.html)

bryzoe
10-12-2014, 11:34 PM
It almost seems like I need some additonal spacers for the tensionser. I used the nice round ones supplied with the mounting hardware for the lower mounting bolts on the inside of the cradle, any one got a pic of the tensioner set up proper?

I would just like to take a moment to thank every for their help and comments, this forum is so much help to me.

Thank YOU!

ProtoDie
10-13-2014, 12:12 AM
Hey Bryan,
the washers go in between the plates and the tensioner on the inside so it at not as much of an angle

bryzoe
10-14-2014, 01:30 AM
Hey Bryan,
the washers go in between the plates and the tensioner on the inside so it at not as much of an angle


I tried that but the plates looked like they needed additional spacers elswhere even with the washers, I'll make it work,

My kit came with 4 of the large round washers I looked at some of the other peoples hardware and it looked like they had 8, how many come with the hardware kit?

thanks

ProtoDie
10-14-2014, 09:56 AM
you only got 4?
sorry about that,,,,,Thats wrong, you should have received 8

I will get 4 more shipped right out to you today

here are some pics showing how the hardware goes

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1620494_847844388567112_1173048707247543534_n.jpg? oh=f8f4dadc51725c003ef0c5ec3957e108&oe=54F68556&__gda__=1421103211_82deb9a98822202f0e5dc47a26ced85 3



https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10710800_847844391900445_5399884553014104951_n.jpg ?oh=5447f42845c44f59e9a6456e91118887&oe=54B1D343&__gda__=1420934858_4a39d3866e611f41d428d7e7e0e4220 8

bryzoe
10-14-2014, 10:47 PM
Thanks for the quick response, and for the clear pics, very nice!

Fox shox came in today as well i'm stoked

ProtoDie
10-15-2014, 09:28 AM
sure, no problem.

the 4 washers shipped yesterday via USPS

NinjaRaptor
10-21-2014, 05:49 PM
One thing I found on the RPM transmission is that the sight glass on the side had little/no sealant or sealing washer so it leaked. When I removed it, I found the sight glass threads were very close to the internal gear. If you tightened it up, it would hit. I bought a few metric washers and sealed it up with teflon sealer......food for thought.....

bryzoe
10-23-2014, 11:18 PM
One thing I found on the RPM transmission is that the sight glass on the side had little/no sealant or sealing washer so it leaked. When I removed it, I found the sight glass threads were very close to the internal gear. If you tightened it up, it would hit. I bought a few metric washers and sealed it up with teflon sealer......food for thought.....


Hey thanks for the tip i'll check mine out for sure, by teflon sealer do you mean the paste stuff (Rector seal) or like teflon tape?

NinjaRaptor
10-24-2014, 12:08 AM
Either would work, but I used Teflon sealant on this.

bryzoe
10-28-2014, 03:18 AM
I'm planning on purchasing Protodie's fuel cell. Its set up for an 08 gsxr 1000 fuel pump. The 2012 gsxr 1000 has a different pump mount config. at least thats what I gather from the bike forums i've read.

I was wondering if the connectors and wiring are the same. If the only difference is the mounting configuration I could use the existing protodie gixxer pump setup avoiding additional time and mods.

Any one have a pic of the K8 fuel pump connnector (harness side) with wire colors visible, and possibly a schematic showing pump/level sensor wiring?

Thanks

NinjaRaptor
10-28-2014, 12:51 PM
I'm planning on purchasing Protodie's fuel cell. Its set up for an 08 gsxr 1000 fuel pump. The 2012 gsxr 1000 has a different pump mount config. at least thats what I gather from the bike forums i've read.

I was wondering if the connectors and wiring are the same. If the only difference is the mounting configuration I could use the existing protodie gixxer pump setup avoiding additional time and mods.

Any one have a pic of the K8 fuel pump connnector (harness side) with wire colors visible, and possibly a schematic showing pump/level sensor wiring?

Thanks

See attached wiring diagram for a GSXR1000 2008. The fuel pump has three wires routed to it, two for power and ground, one for float level (Variable resistor). Colors are noted on the schematic. The wiring might be the same even if the colors are different. Trace it out on the 2012 schematic and see if they both go to the same places and perform the same function.

31288

You will also need to set the crush depth for the O-ring on the fuel pump if its like the 2008. I made a spacer ring to set the crush depth on the fuel tank I have, worked fine. You usually want the o-ring around 20-25% compression.

bryzoe
10-28-2014, 11:09 PM
Wow thanks NinjaRaptor ! PDF schematic is perfect and easy to read. Just checked my 2012 manual and its identical, wire color and functions. Looks like I can use the K8 fuel pump designed for Protodies fuel cell with my engine no prob!

I think the oring channel is already machined into the fuel pump mount on the Proto fuel cells I assume with the proper crush depth. Am I thinking about the same thing you are describing as crush depth?

NinjaRaptor
10-28-2014, 11:59 PM
I also used the Protodie fuel tank and it does have a groove for the o-ring, but I didn't end up with the proper crush depth (o-ring compression) using the closest fitting o-ring I found. The O-ring P/N I used was AS568A-336. Other Protodie builders may have found something different. You will need to take measurements of the pump installed without the o-ring to see where it seats on the tank. Measure the depth of the o-ring groove (disassembled), then calculate the required spacer to get the proper o-ring compression. Its less than a beer to do this.:D

NinjaRaptor
10-29-2014, 12:22 AM
Actually, now I remember last time I measured the height of the o-ring as it rested in the groove vs. measuring the o-ring depth. That would be more accurate. Using this measurement with the measurement where the pump is seated will get you the spacer thickness for the correct compression.

bryzoe
10-29-2014, 01:33 AM
Actually, now I remember last time I measured the height of the o-ring as it rested in the groove vs. measuring the o-ring depth. That would be more accurate. Using this measurement with the measurement where the pump is seated will get you the spacer thickness for the correct compression.


Ok I understand. Did you have trouble with leakage with the incorrect compression?

Rat4020
10-29-2014, 09:22 AM
[QUOTE=NinjaRaptor;293771]I also used the Protodie fuel tank and it does have a groove for the o-ring, but I didn't end up with the proper crush depth (o-ring compression) using the closest fitting o-ring I found. The O-ring P/N I used was AS568A-336. Other Protodie builders may have found something different. You will need to take measurements of the pump installed without the o-ring to see where it seats on the tank. Measure the depth of the o-ring groove (disassembled), then calculate the required spacer to get the proper o-ring compression. Its less than a beer to do this.:D[/QUOTE

With a 568-336 oring the I.D Tol. is 2.850 +or - .020 & W. .210+or- .005 And the actual O.D. is 3.250 The Width is 3/16

ProtoDie
10-29-2014, 10:54 AM
I usually ship an O ring with the fuel cell

Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 336

The machined groove is just to keep the O ring located , not intended to set the compression

I just snugged the bolts up evenly, never used any spacers.
Never had a a leak or any issues without spacers.

NinjaRaptor
10-29-2014, 12:46 PM
Ok I understand. Did you have trouble with leakage with the incorrect compression?

I set the compression height when I built it and added the spacer to act as a hard stop when seating the pump. That way its fastened tight and has the correct seal. You can do it the way Protodie suggested as well. Its a matter of personal preference on how you want to assembly it.

bryzoe
11-02-2014, 12:03 AM
Thanks for the input guys, Just ordered the fuel cell have to check it out when it arrives, oh yah and buy buy a fuel pump.

Seats, pedal assymbly, 2009 header, and fox shocks were todays goods on hand but didnts really get to build much. got some pics though, put all the parts on just for motivation purposes then took it off for seat fab.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/parts%20on/P1000619_zps34eb0fd8.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/parts%20on/P1000619_zps34eb0fd8.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/parts%20on/P1000617_zps903d9bfc.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/parts%20on/P1000617_zps903d9bfc.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/parts%20on/P1000616_zpsdc829b27.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/parts%20on/P1000616_zpsdc829b27.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/parts%20on/P1000620_zps4da39704.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/parts%20on/P1000620_zps4da39704.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/parts%20on/P1000626_zpse2c48842.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/parts%20on/P1000626_zpse2c48842.jpg.html)



Finally the new header, the 2009 header is on the right and is larger and does not require fabrication to connect to the exhaust pipe.



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/parts%20on/P1000611_zps5ae1051e.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/parts%20on/P1000611_zps5ae1051e.jpg.html)

bryzoe
11-09-2014, 12:50 AM
Started the seat mounts today decied to use rectangular tube 2X1 .0625. Notched them to fit frame tubing and tacked them in.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Seat%20mount/P1000631_zps46302bf5.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Seat%20mount/P1000631_zps46302bf5.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Seat%20mount/P1000632_zpsd45132d3.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Seat%20mount/P1000632_zpsd45132d3.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Seat%20mount/P1000633_zpsa8208528.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Seat%20mount/P1000633_zpsa8208528.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Seat%20mount/P1000637_zps6f665df1.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Seat%20mount/P1000637_zps6f665df1.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Seat%20mount/P1000634_zpsfc6c4ec4.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Seat%20mount/P1000634_zpsfc6c4ec4.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Seat%20mount/P1000636_zpsbfc18cb5.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Seat%20mount/P1000636_zpsbfc18cb5.jpg.html)

ErwinBnl
11-13-2014, 09:39 AM
Amazing buggy, thanks for sharing all those photos! Love it!

bryzoe
11-14-2014, 10:14 PM
Amazing buggy, thanks for sharing all those photos! Love it!



Thanks ErwinBnl, I personaly enjoy looking at others photos so I thought i'd go to town!

NinjaRaptor
11-14-2014, 10:53 PM
Looks like you are coming along nicely, it will be a great ride when its finished!

bryzoe
11-15-2014, 12:46 AM
Thanks Ninja, I was just browsing your XK 1000 thread and was interested in your engine mods.

I am planning on eliminating my exhaust valve and running an emulator its good to know it does not adversely affect torque.

With custom exhaust are you concerned about air fuel ratio? I'm really opening my engine's breathing capacity and am concerned about lean afr. you running stock or fuel controller?

NinjaRaptor
11-15-2014, 01:04 PM
Glad to be of help, I eliminated a handful of sensors that are of no use on a rail, including the exhaust control valve. All of it works fine and there are no FI codes thrown. All things considered, the ECU does not know the engine is not in a motorcycle. The exhaust pipe is different, muffler is from a 2001 GSXR1000, and the air box is different. The sensors should adjust the fuel map accordingly and keep the A/F ratio within or close OEM limits. The mode switch automatically defaults to mode A (performance) for the best power and rich A/F ratio settings. All that said, I purposely put a bung in the exhaust so I can plug in a wide band Oxygen sensor and read what its doing. I still need to do that for piece of mind or take it to a dyno shop and tune it there. Most likely will use a Teka4 tuner since they can tap right into the ECU and adjust the settings, no extra control box required. I wanted to take some readings on the first trip, but babied it until I felt how it would perform. There were no flat spots in the power band, so I don't think it is too far off.

bryzoe
11-15-2014, 11:43 PM
Glad to be of help, I eliminated a handful of sensors that are of no use on a rail, including the exhaust control valve. All of it works fine and there are no FI codes thrown. All things considered, the ECU does not know the engine is not in a motorcycle. The exhaust pipe is different, muffler is from a 2001 GSXR1000, and the air box is different. The sensors should adjust the fuel map accordingly and keep the A/F ratio within or close OEM limits. The mode switch automatically defaults to mode A (performance) for the best power and rich A/F ratio settings. All that said, I purposely put a bung in the exhaust so I can plug in a wide band Oxygen sensor and read what its doing. I still need to do that for piece of mind or take it to a dyno shop and tune it there. Most likely will use a Teka4 tuner since they can tap right into the ECU and adjust the settings, no extra control box required. I wanted to take some readings on the first trip, but babied it until I felt how it would perform. There were no flat spots in the power band, so I don't think it is too far off.

I will be running a wide band 02 sensor to monitor afr. I was planning on running a power commander autotuner and power commander 5 so the system would basically self dyno and correct under opperation. The only drawback is the extra control boxes and clutter.

The Teka tool seems like a great idea but I'm a little intimidated when it comes to messing with ecu settings. Its basically like having your ecu flashed only you do it yourself, but you got to know what your doing!

When you do start tuning, detail it in your thread or give me a heads up so I can learn.
Thanks .

NinjaRaptor
11-16-2014, 01:10 PM
The hard part is doing this with a single seater if you opt for tuning in the dunes. Basically, need to record the data while you drive it. Stop, check the data, adjust with the tuner, repeat. Acceleration/speed starts out low on the first pass, then increase on subsequent passes. Adjust fuel parameters at each rpm range on the map as you work your way up. You want to see 11-12:1 AFR. If you have a two seater, the AFR gauge and a Teka4 tuner is all you need. Let the passenger tune it after each pass.

Taking it to a dyno shop is easier since you have the all the information right there and its easier to tune. Finding a good dyno shop is a little more difficult....

I plan to check the AFR next time out and see where its at. The Teka would be the path I would prefer just because I don't want to buy/install something for a one time tune. No need to carry the extra bits.....but that's just my personal opinion.:)

bryzoe
11-23-2014, 03:08 AM
Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is in the way of the fuel cell seating properly. I checked online for low profile billet PCV covers but they only went up to k8. My options are to raise fuel cell a couple inches to clear PCV, make or have made, a custom low profile PCV plate or attempt to reposistion engine in mount .


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/P1000643_zps898dc4ce.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/P1000643_zps898dc4ce.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/P1000642_zps4470bd6d.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/P1000642_zps4470bd6d.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/P1000644_zps1ca4fc25.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/P1000644_zps1ca4fc25.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/P1000645_zps0f8a1348.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/P1000645_zps0f8a1348.jpg.html)

NinjaRaptor
11-23-2014, 01:24 PM
You might want to see what the interference is with the pump installed in the tank. The pump is indexed to the bolt hole pattern in the tank which locks it into one position only. Depending on how much clearance you need, you might be able to machine away the front of the tank base plate (pump mounts) to fit. You will need to keep enough material to seat and seal the pump. Don't forget the gas tank comes with think rubber insulators for front and back mount points. They are about .25" or maybe .375" thick. I didn't see them in your pictures, but that will also help with the clearance.

bryzoe
11-23-2014, 03:24 PM
You might want to see what the interference is with the pump installed in the tank. The pump is indexed to the bolt hole pattern in the tank which locks it into one position only. Depending on how much clearance you need, you might be able to machine away the front of the tank base plate (pump mounts) to fit. You will need to keep enough material to seat and seal the pump. Don't forget the gas tank comes with think rubber insulators for front and back mount points. They are about .25" or maybe .375" thick. I didn't see them in your pictures, but that will also help with the clearance.

Good points NinjaRaptor, was thinking about some sort of spacers (mine didn't come wiht rubber insulators). Guess I should see clearance with the pump installed and go from there.

NinjaRaptor
11-23-2014, 03:39 PM
Get the rubber insulators and pump installed with the tank, post a few pics and lets see what you have. My bet is the clearance will be close, maybe close enough that you only have to bevel the tank fuel pump base plate edge a bit to make is work.

ProtoDie
11-23-2014, 05:15 PM
yes I run 1/4" rubber between the tank and the e cradle..

No the tanks do not come with these.
I just get a sheet of rubber and cut them out.


what year and size is your motor ? never had any clearance problems there?

I agree with Ninja on puttiing the fuel pump in ,,, then see what you need to do for clearance

Beruba
11-23-2014, 07:09 PM
Jodie I think its a 2012 gsxr1000. the engine is mounted 2-3/4" towards the back from the original mount probably to get clearance with the fire wall. A suggestion would be to cut the tank support from the cradle, bolt it to the tank place the tank where it would fit Then weld a couple of plates between the tank support and the cradle. Seems like the tank could go 1-1/2" higher at the back that might be enough. hope that help.

bryzoe
11-25-2014, 10:54 PM
It is infact a 2012 gsxr 1000 and the mounting points are a little different but mainly the motor needs to be tilted quite a bit more than the k7-k8's. I have brackets temped up as it sits now which may need reconfiguring.

I will definitely get some rubber as an isolator btwn the cradle and tank and possibly do something along the lines of your idea Beruba.

Orderd the pump, should arrive by this weekend. Wont have time to work on it though with Thanks giving activities etc.

Thanks for all the ideas guys should be fairly easy once i have the pump installed to get a quality install with the least possible deviation from Jody's engineering.

bryzoe
12-07-2014, 12:31 AM
Got to the shop this weekend determined to mount the fuel cell. I spent 3 hours with the engine in the bay hanging from ratchet straps in an attempt to reposistion the mount and allow the fuel cell to work w/o further fabrication. No dice... the motor stays as configured.

So I decided to make a spacer out of 1" aluminum and 1/4" rubber ( didn't have rubber so i temped it with 1/4" MDF) I bolted it in and seemed to work pretty good, welded some tabs at the rear as well. I left enough space between the rear tabs and the fuel cell mounting holes for rubber isolators.

NinjaRaptor
12-07-2014, 12:40 AM
Sounds like you figured out a path to make it work, look forward to seeing some pics of the fuel cell setup.

bryzoe
12-07-2014, 12:46 AM
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000649_zps8836d388.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000649_zps8836d388.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000647_zps3f293777.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000647_zps3f293777.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000648_zps40161e8c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000648_zps40161e8c.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000650_zpsa73d8d2f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000650_zpsa73d8d2f.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000653_zps33fed28f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000653_zps33fed28f.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000651_zps8027a44a.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000651_zps8027a44a.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000652_zps49f4218f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/fuel%20cell/fuel%20cell%20mount/P1000652_zps49f4218f.jpg.html)

NinjaRaptor
12-07-2014, 01:10 AM
Looks good, should have enough space for the fuel pump once you get it mounted in the fuel cell. Make sure you check the float travel when you install the pump and that it reads correctly (Full/empty) at full travel. I think I ended up bending the rod a bit and measuring the resistance at the fuel pump electrical connector to make sure it reads the right resistance at full and empty. I might have even flipped the float to the other side of the pump....too long ago for me to remember. Otherwise, you might not know where you are fuel wise.....All this assumes you are using the OEM cluster assembly.

bryzoe
12-07-2014, 02:13 AM
Looks good, should have enough space for the fuel pump once you get it mounted in the fuel cell. Make sure you check the float travel when you install the pump and that it reads correctly (Full/empty) at full travel. I think I ended up bending the rod a bit and measuring the resistance at the fuel pump electrical connector to make sure it reads the right resistance at full and empty. I might have even flipped the float to the other side of the pump....too long ago for me to remember. Otherwise, you might not know where you are fuel wise.....All this assumes you are using the OEM cluster assembly.

Ninja

I do have the fuel pump installed its sort of hard to see in the pics but its in there. I did have to slightly bend my fload rod to allow it to fit in the cell and index properly. The float moves freely but I will definately ohm it out and see if it needs further tweeking to read properly.

NinjaRaptor
12-07-2014, 01:02 PM
You are right, I couldn't see the fuel pump in the pictures. Sounds like you have it covered. The Service manual outlines the resistances readings at empty and full for reference.

I see you are in Centralia, WA. I live in Oregon City, OR. Might have to hook up one of these days and check out the rails.

bryzoe
12-07-2014, 11:21 PM
You are right, I couldn't see the fuel pump in the pictures. Sounds like you have it covered. The Service manual outlines the resistances readings at empty and full for reference.

I see you are in Centralia, WA. I live in Oregon City, OR. Might have to hook up one of these days and check out the rails.

That would be great!

bryzoe
12-07-2014, 11:30 PM
Made some forward progress today; installed and welded dash upright tubes in preparation for shift controls, which if all goes well should arrive before the coming weekend.



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000656_zpsb27db4b2.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000656_zpsb27db4b2.jpg.html)

NinjaRaptor
12-19-2014, 12:54 AM
Hey Bryzoe, looking at the pics of the gas tank in its new position, do you know how much horizontal clearance you have from the shock bolt hole to the fuel cell? Mine is pretty close on the XK1000, just enough room to attach a line to the Schrader valve and adjust the shocks as needed. I think its a little more than 1.5 inches horizontally, the Schrader valve on the shock is just above the height of the fuel cell....

bryzoe
12-23-2014, 10:37 PM
Hey Bryzoe, looking at the pics of the gas tank in its new position, do you know how much horizontal clearance you have from the shock bolt hole to the fuel cell? Mine is pretty close on the XK1000, just enough room to attach a line to the Schrader valve and adjust the shocks as needed. I think its a little more than 1.5 inches horizontally, the Schrader valve on the shock is just above the height of the fuel cell....


Hmm good point i'll take a look this weekend, Man i didn't even think of that!

NinjaRaptor
12-23-2014, 11:36 PM
You might not have an issue, its just hard to see with the pics on this thread. At worst case, you would have to mount the shocks such that the schrader valve is pointing outward away from the tank.....as long as there is room on that side.

Whatever option you take, run the suspension to it's max positions and verify you don't have any interference with the schrader valve.

bryzoe
12-28-2014, 12:19 AM
Got some time back in the shop today and a nice visit from one of the members in my neck of the woods.

Started the rpm shift linkage and was troubled by the extreme difficulty to shift the box. I have not added any gear oil maybe its just lack of lubrication.

Also I installed the linkage the only way it made sense to me, might be incorrect.

I'm going to post pics of todays progress and maybe something will be obvious to you guys who are already up and running.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000668_zps3810b39b.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000668_zps3810b39b.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000665_zps6e14083f.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000665_zps6e14083f.jpg.html)


Shift linkage in Forward posistion

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000657_zpsbb4da815.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000657_zpsbb4da815.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000658_zpscef606d0.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000658_zpscef606d0.jpg.html)


Shift linkage in Reverse

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000663_zps61a111fd.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000663_zps61a111fd.jpg.html)


Cable hook up to shift linkage

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000660_zps9250cc63.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000660_zps9250cc63.jpg.html)

ProtoDie
12-28-2014, 12:10 PM
Build is looking good.
I have found the RPM gear box can be hard to shift before adding oil too.
after final assembly adding oil I never noticed it being hard at all though.

Everything looks good, except the shift arm on the RPM gear box.
flip that over so the clearance in the laser plate is on the bottom.
then maybe fine tune the turn buckle and cable to match ,,,,,then that is how I run it.
Hopefully changing that makes it easier to shift for you :D

NinjaRaptor
12-28-2014, 01:17 PM
The new RPM trans for the XK1000 was very hard to shift before I rode it. It's still a bit picky, but that will ease with wear. Mine has definitely improved.

I still need to get a shift knob for it, pushing down the spring loaded shift lever hurts my hand after trying that a few times...

bryzoe
12-28-2014, 09:53 PM
Build is looking good.
I have found the RPM gear box can be hard to shift before adding oil too.
after final assembly adding oil I never noticed it being hard at all though.

Everything looks good, except the shift arm on the RPM gear box.
flip that over so the clearance in the laser plate is on the bottom.
then maybe fine tune the turn buckle and cable to match ,,,,,then that is how I run it.
Hopefully changing that makes it easier to shift for you :D


Jody, I initally tried to install the shift lever with the notched side down as you describe but could not get it to work. There were only two positions possible with the lever notch end down and on the correct side to connect with the turn buckle but each had a fatal flaw:

with the notch end down and the lever down its hits the gearbox before engaging reverse

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000669_zps4b07cb52.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000669_zps4b07cb52.jpg.html)


with the notch end down and the lever up inserting the fastener prevents movement out of this posistion

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000670_zps81462475.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000670_zps81462475.jpg.html)

The only way I could get any shifting was to invert the lever (notch end up) other wise the clocking is wrong.

ProtoDie
12-29-2014, 12:22 AM
welll,,,,,,,, huh?

I looked it up in cad design ,,,, and previous builds to make sure before I posted.
from what I seen, flipping it should have positioned it 1/4 or more lower.
but pictures tell the story.
never thought of this, but wonder of the gear box shift shaft can vary.
wouldn't think so though.
anyhow, add oil :D

JD66
12-29-2014, 02:07 AM
Bryzoe, I just finished my build and have the protodie rpm shift linkage working well. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.

NinjaRaptor
12-29-2014, 02:10 AM
For what its worth, I just looked at mine, it matches the setup you have in the first set of pictures. The lever arm on the RPM transmission is about 45 degrees at one position, about 90 or a bit more at the other position.

Beruba
12-29-2014, 04:49 AM
Same here it match the setup you have in the first set of pictures.

JD66
12-29-2014, 01:07 PM
Here's a few pictures of mine. I see the laser plate coming off the RPM is not identical to yours though. Mine was hard to shift before adding oil though, now it's pretty smooth.

I would check that the long bolt going across the engine cradle (the pivot for the linkage bar) isn't too tight, causing the linkage to drag.


http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/justindutton66/Buggy/photo2_zps1281f3a9.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/justindutton66/media/Buggy/photo2_zps1281f3a9.jpg.html)



http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q710/justindutton66/Buggy/photo1_zps104bc8f4.jpg (http://s1355.photobucket.com/user/justindutton66/media/Buggy/photo1_zps104bc8f4.jpg.html)

ProtoDie
12-29-2014, 04:10 PM
looked thru some other builds of ours,,,,:o
I was wrong when I told Bryan to flip the plate

you guys are right and Bryan you have it in the proper position.
in the up position the bolt should be just clear of the RPM plate.
Just like Justins and Bryans pics show.

Justin you have the newest version of the RPM lever where we clearance both sides.
That is the only difference between the lever in your build and Bryans.

so just add oil :D

bryzoe
12-29-2014, 05:20 PM
Thanks Every one for your help.

Just wanted to make sure I had the set up for the linkage correct. I added some gear oil and it helps quite a bit. I also noticed that if I shift into forward or reverse and rotate the input shaft (as if I was powering it with the engine ) it makes it much easier to shift out of said gear

Alright on to the engine shifting...

bryzoe
01-04-2015, 12:28 AM
Figured out a way to hook up the cable to the L2 for the gear shift. Had to modify 2012 shift linkage but worked out pretty smooth.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000679_zpsdfd20939.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000679_zpsdfd20939.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000680_zpsce9c8239.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000680_zpsce9c8239.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000681_zps78497143.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000681_zps78497143.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/P1000682_zpsd4432886.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/P1000682_zpsd4432886.jpg.html)

bryzoe
01-04-2015, 11:54 PM
Back to the shop today and dialed in the steering. I mounted the steering tube on top of the lower dash bar which means I'll have to notch the dash panel but it makes the cockpit ergonomics much more to my liking.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/steering/P1000686_zps17053594.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/steering/P1000686_zps17053594.jpg.html)

I might put another support from the steering tube to the upper dash bar
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/steering/P1000685_zps48d2d893.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/steering/P1000685_zps48d2d893.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/steering/P1000684_zps31e9c7ff.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/steering/P1000684_zps31e9c7ff.jpg.html)


Blurry selfie of me in the cockpit with feet in "Pedal posistion"
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/steering/P1000688_zpse8051e0c.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/steering/P1000688_zpse8051e0c.jpg.html)


Clear selfie of me in cockpit with feet slightly past where they would sit with pedals hooded up. Notice the ample room similar ergos to my car.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/controls/steering/P1000690_zps0b58d2a7.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/controls/steering/P1000690_zps0b58d2a7.jpg.html)

Beruba
01-05-2015, 12:16 AM
The steering wheel over the tube is the way to go I should have done that on mine ;)

bryzoe
01-06-2015, 01:27 AM
The steering wheel over the tube is the way to go I should have done that on mine ;)


I experimented with the steering wheel in so many posistions, glad I went with the over the tube!

Lcplpaine7
01-21-2015, 10:12 AM
Looking great, I finally get to start working on my frame Thursday. Has anyone got this buggy street legal. A few new laws have made it possible in WA because the state wants off-road and street tags.

Has anyone mounted a rear view mirror with the x tubing behind the head and a spoiler? Doesn't look like will be able to see much.

JD66
01-21-2015, 12:25 PM
I don't have a protodie chassis, but I'm running a convex rear view mirror and I have a few tubes blocking my view. Visibility isn't great, but I still like having it there. I mostly use it to check for the vehicle behind me while on a run.

If you do run a rear view mirror, mount it twisted toward the driver a bit so when you look in it you see behind you equally left/right. I mounted mine "square" to the chassis at first, and I could only see the rear passenger side through the mirror.

bryzoe
01-22-2015, 03:22 AM
Looking great, I finally get to start working on my frame Thursday. Has anyone got this buggy street legal. A few new laws have made it possible in WA because the state wants off-road and street tags.

Has anyone mounted a rear view mirror with the x tubing behind the head and a spoiler? Doesn't look like will be able to see much.

Right on Lcplpaine7! looking forward to checking out your SS progress!

Where I live in washington its possible to go street legal with side by side type orv's and 4 wheelers. There are some specific criteria you have to meet. There is also a limitation to 35 MPH and less roadways, and each county can determine whether they will even allow these type vehicles on public roadways. I am actually holding off on buying tires until I determine if I'm going that route (DOT approved tires are required)

Lcplpaine7
01-22-2015, 09:37 PM
Yeah the rules seem to change daily. I've been told bY STATE PATROL that there should be no restriction for a sand rail with 5 point harness and street legal everything. Just need to go to motor cycle shop to have inspected for street use. Living in Washington sucks for sand rails so there's no doubt I'm gonna make it street legal. If I have to I'll register and title in az. My parent live there and when u transfer to Washington there is no need for a state patrol inspection. Being able to use all the time is kick ass. Miss az for glamis every weekend.

bryzoe
01-22-2015, 11:56 PM
Yeah the rules seem to change daily. I've been told bY STATE PATROL that there should be no restriction for a sand rail with 5 point harness and street legal everything. Just need to go to motor cycle shop to have inspected for street use. Living in Washington sucks for sand rails so there's no doubt I'm gonna make it street legal. If I have to I'll register and title in az. My parent live there and when u transfer to Washington there is no need for a state patrol inspection. Being able to use all the time is kick ass. Miss az for glamis every weekend.


Wow! If thats the case and you can go fully street legal like a car that would be ideal.
Just need to find out what "street legal everything entails" If you find a definitive list post it for sure, curious about title and registration.

interestingly the company I work for ended up with a golf cart with a gixer 750 in it that was licensed in arizona for road use. I ended up with it and that started may interest in motorcycle engine powered buggies. Gotta love Arizona!

bryzoe
01-23-2015, 12:03 AM
Hey Lcplpaine7,

What part of washington or you located in if you dont mind me asking?

millbilly
01-24-2015, 02:08 AM
Look up rowycoracing , Lives 3 hours North of you.
Has one street legal. Didn't seam too hard to do.

Bansheebrigade
01-24-2015, 02:17 AM
Looking awesome! I have been thinking how making a buggy street legal in Washington also. The state transfer idea sounds promising! Hey bryzoe, I'm from Castle Rock, 30 min south of you. Do you mind visitors? I'll help work on the buggy :D.

bryzoe
01-25-2015, 09:59 PM
Look up rowycoracing , Lives 3 hours North of you.
Has one street legal. Didn't seam too hard to do.

Ill look him up, thanks

bryzoe
01-25-2015, 10:00 PM
Looking awesome! I have been thinking how making a buggy street legal in Washington also. The state transfer idea sounds promising! Hey bryzoe, I'm from Castle Rock, 30 min south of you. Do you mind visitors? I'll help work on the buggy :D.


Dont mind visitors at all, look forward to meeting fellow builders.

Lcplpaine7
01-26-2015, 05:07 AM
I Iive in Bonney lake by the movie theatre. Always fun to work with others. My email is lcplpaine7@yahoo.com hit me up anytime. Going to be working like crazy.

bryzoe
02-10-2015, 11:50 PM
A couple weeks ago I installed the chain and sprocket and discovered that due to the engine posistion the chain interfered with the sprocket guard. I needed to increase the angle of my motor. I had tried once before to suspend the engine in the engine bay with ratchet straps but had no luck. Necessity being the mother of invention, I came up with a way to posistion the engine in the bay and move it up and down as well as tilting. This allowed me to find a posistion where the chain did not contact the lower part of the sprocket guard as an added bonus the new adjustment allowed the fuel cell to mount without any bulky spacer.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000696_zps24hsbskh.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000696_zps24hsbskh.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000698_zpsv3si3t3v.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000698_zpsv3si3t3v.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000699_zps6st8vbkg.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000699_zps6st8vbkg.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Engine%20Mount/P1000700_zpset8aum2n.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Engine%20Mount/P1000700_zpset8aum2n.jpg.html)

bryzoe
02-11-2015, 12:02 AM
I do have a concern however, when I measure the distance from the edge of the chain to the engine cradle at the rpm sprocket side I get 9/16" when I measure at the engine sprocket side to the cradle I get 5/8" ... The alignment isn't right on. Is this going to be an issue? I could put a 1/16" spacer on the rpm shaft to get alignment but I am already fully spaced out with the included rpm shaft washers.

NinjaRaptor
02-11-2015, 01:16 AM
Double check your measurements and use a straight edge off the RPM sprocket. I usually bolt a straight edge to the sprocket and rotate down until it hits the front sprocket. Make sure you are measuring the same spot on both sprockets, usually the base of the teeth, along the side. You can also use a laser from one sprocket to the other. Yes, I would adjust the RPM sprocket by one spacer to get them lined up.

Lcplpaine7
02-12-2015, 11:38 PM
Does anyone have any suggestions of what to do for the slave hydrolic clutch setup. Im using a 05-06 Gsxr 1000. I have some ideas where Im gonna start but maybe you guys have done, and tested and like your setups. any info would be nice.

Beruba
02-13-2015, 12:20 AM
I have 05 gsxr in mine I used the sprocket cover from 07-08 it bolt right on and its hydraulic. you will need to modify the push rod but thats it.
07 08 GSXR 1000 Sprocket Cover Slave Cylinder | eBay (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/07-08-GSXR-1000-SPROCKET-COVER-SLAVE-CYLINDER-/171532054058?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27f01b6e2a&vxp=mtr)

[smilie=thumbs_up.g:

bryzoe
02-13-2015, 02:03 AM
Double check your measurements and use a straight edge off the RPM sprocket. I usually bolt a straight edge to the sprocket and rotate down until it hits the front sprocket. Make sure you are measuring the same spot on both sprockets, usually the base of the teeth, along the side. You can also use a laser from one sprocket to the other. Yes, I would adjust the RPM sprocket by one spacer to get them lined up.


Good call on the straight edge fastened directly to the sprockets. I'm actually off about 1/8 inch but now I know exactly how much to move for precise alignment.

bryzoe
02-13-2015, 02:14 AM
Does anyone have any suggestions of what to do for the slave hydrolic clutch setup. Im using a 05-06 Gsxr 1000. I have some ideas where Im gonna start but maybe you guys have done, and tested and like your setups. any info would be nice.


I plan on using an aftermarket clutch pull slave to my cable opperated clutch, not sure how the 05-06 clutch set up is. Beruba's method using 08 clutch cover and modifying the push pin seems like the way to go. I wonder if I could do the same for my engine. any one have a close up pic and maybe some measurements of the 08 clutch cover mounting set up?

Beruba
02-13-2015, 02:23 AM
The 07-08 cover wont fit on your engine the shifter shaft is in a different location.

NinjaRaptor
02-13-2015, 01:49 PM
Good call on the straight edge fastened directly to the sprockets. I'm actually off about 1/8 inch but now I know exactly how much to move for precise alignment.

Glad that worked for you, makes kind of easy.


I plan on using an aftermarket clutch pull slave to my cable opperated clutch, not sure how the 05-06 clutch set up is. Beruba's method using 08 clutch cover and modifying the push pin seems like the way to go. I wonder if I could do the same for my engine. any one have a close up pic and maybe some measurements of the 08 clutch cover mounting set up?

Didn't realize you were going with a cable operated clutch, I do recall seeing some aftermarket setups made for sprint car racing, but can't recall where I saw it.....might have to do some internet searching...

Lcplpaine7
02-14-2015, 04:05 AM
How are you modifying the push rod? shortening it? How much if so? A little more info and you might have me sold. How does it operate and function? Any issues? Ive heard of this method having some issues but sounds like a clean way to go.

Beruba
02-14-2015, 11:54 AM
The push rod as to be longer. when I find out hat the 07-08 push rod was a different part # I bought one but it was also to short. I tig welded those two rod together then cut it to long then I put the rod in place, push the cover against the rod, measure the distance between the cover and the engine, then cut the push rod accordingly.

ProtoDie
02-14-2015, 02:04 PM
We have been using the 07/08 motors because of the hydraulic clutch set up.
Nice to know you can change some others over.

On other engines, I have used a slave cylinder.

so the pedal and master cylinder,,, run the line to the slave cylinder which is mounted in a fixed position and the stock bike clutch cable can be routed to reach it.
Then make a coupling to thread onto the slave cylinder and on the other side made to fit the cable end.
this can be done by drilling a hole thru the side to fit the barrel end of the cable. Then drill a cable diameter hole in the end ,,,and into the side hole
then use a thin cut off wheel or something to slot the side for the cable.

cable end needs to then also be mounted rigid.
Sometimes I will add a spring to it also to insure it returns all the way back.

I looked all over , but can not find any pictures of this set up.
this is the slave cylinder I use though

Slave cylinder (http://www.protodie.com/Clutch-Slave-Kit_p_114.html)



Using the 07 /08 cover would be be best though

Lcplpaine7
02-17-2015, 01:51 AM
Nice I was reading another post a while back and they used a busa rod making it long enough and work the way its supposed to without having to weld it together. I think I already ordered one up a couple weeks ago. Brain Fart... Lol

bryzoe
03-16-2015, 03:13 AM
Been working alot of hours lately and haven't had any time to work on the buggy. I finaly got some time today and made some forward momentum.



Rear Firewall

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000711_zpsjaucg0en.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000711_zpsjaucg0en.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000712_zpsbad7gcvl.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000712_zpsbad7gcvl.jpg.html)


I had to do some fitting to get my gauge installed and taped up the dash panel to avoid scratches

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000713_zpskol5fp6j.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000713_zpskol5fp6j.jpg.html)


I think this piece is for the front firewall but cant seem to find where it fits, need some help on this one.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000706_zpsbcp8t6av.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000706_zpsbcp8t6av.jpg.html)

Beruba
03-16-2015, 04:41 PM
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o758/beruba67/IMG_2599_zpsfe50e2a6.jpg (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/beruba67/media/IMG_2599_zpsfe50e2a6.jpg.html)
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o758/beruba67/IMG_21751_zps9582ddb2.jpg (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/beruba67/media/IMG_21751_zps9582ddb2.jpg.html)
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o758/beruba67/IMG_21501_zpseaa3bda4.jpg (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/beruba67/media/IMG_21501_zpseaa3bda4.jpg.html)
I hope those pics would help you to figure out the front firewalls

bryzoe
03-17-2015, 03:06 AM
Ah, I see I was trying to install the panels on the inside of the frame for some reason, thanks Beruba!

Bansheebrigade
04-06-2015, 04:02 AM
Looking pretty killer bryzoe!

bryzoe
04-07-2015, 03:20 AM
Looking pretty killer bryzoe!
Thanks Bansheebrigade! been buying a lot of parts lately but too busy to put em on, Keep hoping I'll get a chance.

bryzoe
04-14-2015, 11:35 PM
Installing tabs and body panels...



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000717_zpsdasraztw.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000717_zpsdasraztw.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000719_zpsurynahqk.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000719_zpsurynahqk.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000721_zpspdbqs8eb.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000721_zpspdbqs8eb.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000722_zpsxvsiuchl.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000722_zpsxvsiuchl.jpg.html)

ProtoDie
04-15-2015, 11:47 AM
Nice, looking good!

bryzoe
04-27-2015, 04:16 AM
Thanks Jody!


Here is the latest body panel work, Whew! installing these panels really brings out any irregularities in the frame build portion.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000724_zps7xhajxjv.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/P1000724_zps7xhajxjv.jpg.html]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/P1000724_zps7xhajxjv.jpg)

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000732_zpsiossde4p.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000732_zpsiossde4p.jpg.html]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000732_zpsiossde4p.jpg)

[IMG]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000735_zpsvhlgivtf.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000735_zpsvhlgivtf.jpg.html]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000735_zpsvhlgivtf.jpg)[/URL]

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000736_zpscxcpiny0.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000736_zpscxcpiny0.jpg.html]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000736_zpscxcpiny0.jpg)[/URL]

<A href="http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000737_zpsr8hecktk.jpg.html]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000737_zpsr8hecktk.jpg[/URL]" target=_blank>http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000737_zpsr8hecktk.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000737_zpsr8hecktk.jpg.html]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000737_zpsr8hecktk.jpg)[/URL]

Rat4020
04-27-2015, 10:29 AM
Hay man picts no show :(

bryzoe
04-27-2015, 11:53 PM
Hay man picts no show :(


Nice, pics showed up last night after posting... no idea why they dissapear. I'll try a repost later today. Photo bucket seems different lately.

Edited and re-pasted pics into previous page. lets see if they stick

Rat4020
04-29-2015, 10:54 AM
yep now they all show but the last one .. Nice pannel work ya got goin there :D

Bansheebrigade
04-29-2015, 04:08 PM
Love the proto's. With just a little body work they really gain their look [smilie=thumbs_up.g:

bryzoe
04-30-2015, 12:47 AM
Thanks guys, looking forward to wrapping up the panel installation. Not sure yet about graphics/powdercoating but starting to look into options.

Forgot to mention: it seems that moving or rorganizing photos into different albums on photobucket after they have been posted destroys the links and eliminates the photo. At least thats what I think happened.

bryzoe
05-03-2015, 03:17 AM
Pretty much done with the panels except for center shift console and dash.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000739_zps3nwraxnk.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000739_zps3nwraxnk.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000740_zpsqrmqtpon.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000740_zpsqrmqtpon.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000741_zpsnh44lljz.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000741_zpsnh44lljz.jpg.html)

Bansheebrigade
05-07-2015, 02:39 AM
Plans for colors? I like that diamond plate strip along the bottom, cool details like that make a project.;)

bryzoe
05-07-2015, 11:50 PM
Plans for colors? I like that diamond plate strip along the bottom, cool details like that make a project.;)

Thanks, the diamond plate is an option which you can opt for ( I got my panels from Protodie)

Yah color hmmm so many options not really sure. Been looking at some of the other ss 1000's for ideas but having a hard time picturing in my mind a color scheme.

Here is one Idea that caught my eye but not sure how it would lend itself to the angular facet type body of my buggy.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Graphics/bmw-m3-gts-v-by-vorsteiner-photo-gallery_4_zpsnzlrwzey.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Graphics/bmw-m3-gts-v-by-vorsteiner-photo-gallery_4_zpsnzlrwzey.jpg.html)

bryzoe
05-10-2015, 02:47 AM
Exhaust temped up and tacked. I used a gen 1 busa muffler and cut 6" off shortened the baffling and drilled some extra holes. curious to hear how it sounds, I hope its kind of quiet.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/exhaust/P1000742_zpsw3cvnbtb.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/exhaust/P1000742_zpsw3cvnbtb.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/exhaust/P1000743_zpsyslnyqia.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/exhaust/P1000743_zpsyslnyqia.jpg.html)

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/exhaust/P1000744_zpsjwdgzxdr.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/exhaust/P1000744_zpsjwdgzxdr.jpg.html)

Bansheebrigade
05-11-2015, 07:43 PM
http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b517/Jarrett_Dailey/photoshopped_zpsjcr4wbrp.jpg

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b517/Jarrett_Dailey/photoshopped2_zpsst9ycuih.jpg

Please excuse my lame photoshop skills;)

Rat4020
05-11-2015, 07:50 PM
Dude LOL that hurts :D Good stuff !!

bryzoe
05-11-2015, 11:49 PM
Hmmm... Interesting work Banshee. A couple of thoughts come to mind: It looks like the design would work.... But It also looks kind of "rainbowy" maybe if the photo shopping was crispened up alittle. or maybe a black background with the stripes might look more serious. Cool Idea to mock up body graphics!

ProtoDie
05-12-2015, 12:11 PM
Bryzoe ,I like your color choices for your SS 1000.
the bright green accent will look good with the black and white

here are some cad pics to play around with for your graphics




https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11218779_962767800408103_3942517496029630800_n.jpg ?oh=d35cc82035a6c6999c8b1059c8e51ae9&oe=55CCDB17


https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11214724_962767530408130_2968907886357947043_n.jpg ?oh=1984d60ceb598e09bf01d9fb7dbdf4d6&oe=55CD112E&__gda__=1438598567_906570fb7d278186d8a3af3676f0611 3


https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/10308371_962767320408151_4783421098763915192_n.jpg ?oh=50506c3ad166dd531e2b7308efa545a1&oe=55C5A49D


https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11263981_962767630408120_1259694328853245004_n.jpg ?oh=e239e3bd09b5a418d4ab1a741165d0a6&oe=55CC1C5E

bryzoe
05-14-2015, 02:58 AM
Hey thanks Jody!

The only way I know how to design with these pictures is to copy and paste them into MS Paint, which is pretty sketchy, Is there a preferable way ??? I dont have photoshop or any other design software.


Heres one I did in Paint


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Graphics/graphic%20sample_zpsfxovbwas.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Graphics/graphic%20sample_zpsfxovbwas.jpg.html)

lost26
05-14-2015, 12:42 PM
I think it looks great

Bansheebrigade
05-15-2015, 03:24 AM
Paint is what I used also, I have photoshop at the school and might be able to get cleaner results of whatever you think up if you would like sometime.:D

bryzoe
07-19-2015, 01:54 AM
Thanks, Lost 26,

Ok Banshee, but sort of jumped the gun on paint & graphics still so so much other work to do first.

Not much production lately mostly head scratching and part ordering/returning. Over the past month I have managed to plumb the brakes/clutch (still some loose ends) and the cooling system (-16 an) (still some loose ends as well). Also finished the dash, I had to order a new piece of aluminum and cut out the gauge cluster and steering shaft hole, it turned out pretty nice!

And now for a bunch of pictures...



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000775_zpsi5l88xfv.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000775_zpsi5l88xfv.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000774_zpsbuy2kfcg.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000774_zpsbuy2kfcg.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000773_zpsl9woywbu.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000773_zpsl9woywbu.jpg.html)





How do you secure the steel brake lines to the tube frame?
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000764_zpscjkc6ppu.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000764_zpscjkc6ppu.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000758_zpsnpjfiew0.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000758_zpsnpjfiew0.jpg.html)




Is this the Proper way to route the flex line for the front calipers?
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000757_zpsalq64i0s.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Brake%20and%20Clutch/P1000757_zpsalq64i0s.jpg.html)

bryzoe
07-19-2015, 02:16 AM
Here are some pics of the -16 an cooling lines



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Cooling%20System/P1000765_zpsstzakkoz.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Cooling%20System/P1000765_zpsstzakkoz.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Cooling%20System/P1000780_zpssriwag6d.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Cooling%20System/P1000780_zpssriwag6d.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Cooling%20System/P1000779_zps532njohk.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Cooling%20System/P1000779_zps532njohk.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Cooling%20System/P1000767_zpsazsj9klt.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Cooling%20System/P1000767_zpsazsj9klt.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Cooling%20System/P1000766_zpsqc5iisid.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Cooling%20System/P1000766_zpsqc5iisid.jpg.html)



Can the small hose from the thermostat T into the radiator cap nipple and then into the recovery tank? not exactly sure how to route it


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Cooling%20System/P1000768_zpslevgbgmp.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Cooling%20System/P1000768_zpslevgbgmp.jpg.html)

bryzoe
07-19-2015, 02:25 AM
Finally a couple pics of the dash



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000777_zpsj6v9ixks.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000777_zpsj6v9ixks.jpg.html)



http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000776_zpswrocm6va.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Body%20panels%20B/Body%20panel%20A/P1000776_zpswrocm6va.jpg.html)

Beruba
07-19-2015, 03:44 AM
The small hose need to tie to the bigger hose not the overflow of the rad.
http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o758/beruba67/IMG_21931_zpsdb4fe229.jpg (http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/beruba67/media/IMG_21931_zpsdb4fe229.jpg.html)

Bullnerd
07-19-2015, 12:37 PM
Very nice! Great job dude!

I like the slave mount, very adjustable.

Shifter looks awkward to me? Is that the engine or trans?

EDIT; never mind, it goes in and out, not up and down!

bryzoe
07-19-2015, 03:17 PM
Thanks, Bullnerd, Yes in and out for the transmission shifting.

Thanks Beruba I see how its done. could I just weld a niple into the upper portion of the radiator, or even to the upper radiator inlet tube to accomplish essentialy the same thing as tapping into the larger hose. not super easy to tap into the flex line... or buy more fittings.

Bansheebrigade
07-21-2015, 04:07 AM
Looking Killer[smilie=thumbs_up.g:

bryzoe
09-10-2015, 02:36 AM
Got Restricted on road license also off road,

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Licensing/P1000808_zpswvb5xjqz.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Licensing/P1000808_zpswvb5xjqz.jpg.html)




Wiring... Making extended harnesses for gauges and switches. Hoping for a clean and simple solution to main harness routing. I decided to go with the Odyssey PC 680 battery.


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/P1000784_zps8bp8rofw.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/P1000784_zps8bp8rofw.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/P1000802_zpsgyfbjs5z.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/P1000802_zpsgyfbjs5z.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/P1000803_zpsdmgivmrc.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/P1000803_zpsdmgivmrc.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/P1000804_zpsmuaznest.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/P1000804_zpsmuaznest.jpg.html)

Bansheebrigade
09-17-2015, 01:31 PM
Wiring is never fun.....looking well organized though!

bryzoe
09-17-2015, 08:43 PM
Wiring is never fun.....looking well organized though!

Thanks Banshee, the work is tedious but I'm sort of enjoying it!.

plkracer
09-18-2015, 01:39 PM
How did you get a restricted use license? Mine is titled, it would be awesome to take it on the street. I see some rzrs running around here and there with plates.

bryzoe
09-21-2015, 10:33 PM
How did you get a restricted use license? Mine is titled, it would be awesome to take it on the street. I see some rzrs running around here and there with plates.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Licensing/Capture_zpsmsnutorm.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Licensing/Capture_zpsmsnutorm.jpg.html)

bryzoe
10-21-2015, 09:06 PM
Wiring Contiues-

Finished up with the engine wiring main harness. I was able to use a "fabbed" stainless paper towl dispenser as a cover for the ecu and assorted relays. The fuse box attaches to the outside of the cover allowing for easy access. will also have a built in switch for dealer mode.

I was able to find bypass/emulator plugs for the following items:
Steering damper
set valve
pair valve
side stand

Installed dash switches and tested circuits. Every thing seems to work fine, no FI codes, Cranks over fine. I'm getting very close to Start Up! I'm holding back untill I finalize the dash wiring and dial in the fuel level sensor float. So far the closest I have gotten the fuel sensor(bending the wire and checking Ohms) is Completly empty to about 3/4 full. Anyone else have any tips for setting fuel level in one of Protodie's fuel cells?


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/Dash%20wiring/P1000819_zps7ttde2fa.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/Dash%20wiring/P1000819_zps7ttde2fa.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/Dash%20wiring/P1000818_zpsgxlmuu39.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/Dash%20wiring/P1000818_zpsgxlmuu39.jpg.html)


http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/Dash%20wiring/P1000821_zpstw0wytnk.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/Dash%20wiring/P1000821_zpstw0wytnk.jpg.html)

ProtoDie
10-22-2015, 06:07 AM
man you are getting close, looks great!

I shortened the float arm on the fuel pump
and bent it around a little until it had full range of motion.
seemed to work good.

always thought about adding threaded inserts to the side of the fuel cell for options of adding a sight tube
thought it would be nice to see at a glance where the fuel level is at
similar to this

DIY Gas Tank Fuel Sight Gauge Kit - Clear - (http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/diy-gas-tank-fuel-sight-gauge-kit-clear.html)


down side to it is,, it adds a point of potential problem or leak over time

NinjaRaptor
10-22-2015, 08:57 AM
Looks like you are getting close to startup, good progress. Regarding the fuel sensor, it only drives a low fuel indicator. It does not have a gauge that displays how much fuel is in the tank, only when its low and time to fill it again. Kind of disappointing compared to the Hayabusa two seater I have. The gauge cluster for that tells you how much fuel is in the tank at all times.

bryzoe
10-22-2015, 06:41 PM
thanks Proto and Ninja. It seems to me then that having the float adjusted properly for the low fuel warning (prior to running out of fuel) would suffice, Yes?

NinjaRaptor
10-22-2015, 07:14 PM
Spot on, don't worry about the other end of the scale. It does nothing for you.

bryzoe
10-24-2015, 12:11 PM
OK, great!

Onto the next item: Fan circuit.
I read on a thread that the bikes existing fan wiring and relay can handle the dual fans(80W each, 14 amps total) quite a bit more than the stock amp draw.

Use the stock system or control a seperate high amp relay with with the stock system?

NinjaRaptor
10-24-2015, 01:22 PM
Take a look at the thread below, I ran into this a while back and found the stock relay will handle up to 20 Amps continuous. Bump up the power wiring to the relay and from the relay to the fans. You should make sure the ground wiring to the fans is suitable as well. Many people forget that ground wires are just as important as power.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/controls-electrical/19969-stock-cooling-fan-wire-big-enough.html

Bansheebrigade
11-03-2015, 09:06 PM
Sweet! Almost there...

bryzoe
05-12-2016, 12:04 AM
Wiring Wrap up


Clutch switch

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/Lighting/P1000830_zps4ahseurs.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/Lighting/P1000830_zps4ahseurs.jpg.html)



Front lights and turn signals

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/Lighting/P1000831_zps71xb8ewd.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/Lighting/P1000831_zps71xb8ewd.jpg.html)


Tail lights and Brake lights

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/Lighting/P1000833_zpsvxlwox6w.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/Lighting/P1000833_zpsvxlwox6w.jpg.html)



Dash partition and wiring

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o179/bryzoe/Wiring/Lighting/P1000838_zps8lsyhwre.jpg (http://s120.photobucket.com/user/bryzoe/media/Wiring/Lighting/P1000838_zps8lsyhwre.jpg.html)

ProtoDie
05-12-2016, 01:12 AM
Nice job, turn signals and brake lights look good mounted that way

bryzoe
05-13-2016, 11:36 PM
Nice job, turn signals and brake lights look good mounted that way



Thanks, Goal was to keep em as discreet as possible but still legal.

bryzoe
07-18-2016, 02:25 AM
How important is it to use the loctite 640 sleeve retainer when installing rpm drive flanges and flange securing bolt?

Could I get by with red locktite or even no locktite?

What is the torque for the flange retaining bolt? (its a pretty small allen)

Anyone run the rpm w/o locktite?

Thanks

ProtoDie
07-18-2016, 10:10 AM
I use red locktite on the splines and bolts.
the stuff RPM uses can break wrenches trying to get them off.

torque 37 ft lbs

bolt torque specs (https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension%20Chart%20for%20A307%20Gr5%20Gr8%20Gr9.pdf )

Rat4020
07-18-2016, 02:31 PM
Yep I use red lock tight on the flange bolts and to remove them just heat the head of the bolt up with a propane torch . It will come off easy cause loctight is basically plastic and will melt easy with enough heat

bryzoe
07-18-2016, 11:16 PM
Thanks Proto & Rat. Thats good news on the red locktite... way more realistic to disassemble.

plkracer
07-23-2016, 04:21 AM
The green loctite (680, 640, etc, I think all of the retaining compounds start with 6) isn't recommended for bolt threads, it is more for holding bearing races and spline assemblies in place. Shear strength is like 3000-4000 lbs or something ridiculous.

Be careful with different grades as well. I started using 648 as my go to retaining compound because it doesnt require an activator on steel. They usually cure without it, but the strength can be greatly comprimized.

bryzoe
07-31-2016, 01:22 AM
Ok thanks for the technical info on the 600 locktites. I think red locktite is more my speed

bryzoe
07-31-2016, 01:26 AM
In regards to the protolite ss 1000 rear hubs, what is the procedure and torque specs for fastening the the dual castle nuts and retaining bolt with washer?

ProtoDie
07-31-2016, 04:29 PM
no torque specs
tighten first nut good , tight but do not have to get crazy with it, crush sleeve between the bearings will prevent any excessive tightening from putting side load on bearings
2nd nut locks the first one in place, you can reef on that one if you want
retaining bolt and washer is just a third lock, keeps the castle nuts from being able to loosen up.

bryzoe
09-17-2016, 05:25 PM
Thanks. Glad I asked, I was getting some conflicting advise with crazy high torque numbers.

bryzoe
09-17-2016, 05:28 PM
Took the ss 1000 for a little test drive sort of took it easy, seemed to work fine.

bryzoe
09-17-2016, 05:52 PM
Trying to embed youtube vid... not happening

Beruba
09-17-2016, 06:25 PM
Congratulation Is that your video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IjATGvTRLM