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Iggsy
11-10-2013, 02:53 PM
I originally built my Barracuda to race offroad which means it had to be altered slightly to meet governing regulations (CAMS) here in Australia. Basically had to use bigger tube with a couple of extra braces which pushes the weight up. I'm also running 31" wheels.

Having heaps of trouble with the front suspension, so I have decided to modify the car. Really should just build another one, but modifications are easier to explain to the missus :cool:.

Here is what I have come up with. Comments or suggestions are welcome.

New nose superimposed on the old frame. Just gives an idea of the dimensional differences. This is a sligtly older pic where I used bulkhead style suspension points - I changed them to the final design in the next pic below.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/Cuda1_zps53dbc7b1.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/Cuda1_zps53dbc7b1.jpg.html)

Here is the final design that I'm just about to start building.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/AssembledCudawithHorizontalHeims_zps4ee3e54d.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/AssembledCudawithHorizontalHeims_zps4ee3e54d.jpg.h tml)

Hambam
11-11-2013, 03:28 AM
Looks good. Will it effect your visibility much? I have a 'cuda and havn't had problems, but i hear the thicker steel tube in the front can interfere with the suspension. I think if you rebuild the original design but with a narrower nose, i think it gets around this problem? Think i remember seeing that over on the edge forum

K-fab
11-11-2013, 09:03 AM
Looks good. The angled tubes from the top of the shock hoops down to that cross member are probably some of the most important pieces to add. Even though they end in a dead tube fashion, they should be strong enough to hold up. The car's fairly light, so I don't see them bending that cross tube. We had a similar setup on my first desert car, w/o the support braces, and it took me one afternoon of flying in the dunes to bend them inward about 3". New braces and never did they move again.

Iggsy
11-12-2013, 04:49 AM
Will it effect your visibility much? Shouldn't, I can't see the nose of the car at the moment, So I'm expecting to just be able to see the tip of the new nose with these mods.

Hopefully it works, because I just cut the nose off this afternoon, no going back now.

whitedragon64
11-12-2013, 10:56 PM
Looks the Goods Simon
Then you will need to start on the rear suspension setup :p

Iggsy
11-13-2013, 04:14 AM
Mate, I'm seriously nearly done with bike motors. The power is great, but the reliability, not so much. I'm sick of chains and electric reverse. I was keen to build one of those gearboxes designed, but very exy if you can't cut gears.......

There are some prolites running 4 cylinder mid mount Subarus here in our comp and they are quick. I reckon one would fit in my car, but I would have to go to a five link rear I think.

What suspension is best in your opinion?

whitedragon64
11-13-2013, 06:10 PM
Feel ya Pain Iggsy
Our buggies are Quick no doubt, Up mixing it with the Pro Buggies and ahead of the Prolites over here, If I could just keep it together

The 3 link rear trailing arms Im running seem up to the task so far, Only issue was
2 races ago I slid sidewavs into a fence strainer post with the rear and put a slight bend in it (into the press and she's straight again)

The 5 link is more adjustable and has a lot more bits in it too

Up north
11-13-2013, 06:47 PM
I'll chime in because I have been doing 3 link vs 5 link myself. Three link is more simplistic and from what I understand good for minimal travel buggies. With lots of travel the wheel toes in as suspension compresses. 5 link maintains toe as track width changes during suspension cycles. 5 link more adjustable too. With three link it's set it and forget it.

whitedragon64
11-13-2013, 07:13 PM
Spot On Up north
Im running 18" of travel on my rear It doesn't appear to effect the car handling with the toe change throughout the travel so far
I run shorter radius rod on the top to gain positive camber as the suspension compresses also

Can eliminate the toe change on it by mounting the front arm mount in line with the rear radius rods inboard mounts Then the arm pivots on the same centrelines

Up north
11-13-2013, 07:28 PM
Spot On Up north
Im running 18" of travel on my rear It doesn't appear to effect the car handling with the toe change throughout the travel so far
I run shorter radius rod on the top to gain positive camber as the suspension compresses also

Can eliminate the toe change on it by mounting the front arm mount in line with the rear radius rods inboard mounts Then the arm pivots on the same centrelines

This makes sense. I was thinking after I posted that if three link were awful rzr xp wouldn't have it. So your mounted inline with the inner pivot and your arm angles out to the tire?

whitedragon64
11-13-2013, 08:54 PM
Nah mate mine is 350mm (14") or so offset
So I do get toe change on it
Set at 0 on ride height

The other way to lessen the toe change is to make the radius rods as long as possible
lessen the swing arc ,But that messes with the driveshaft plunge [smilie=banghead.gi:

deaner
11-13-2013, 09:41 PM
Spot On Up north
Im running 18" of travel on my rear It doesn't appear to effect the car handling with the toe change throughout the travel so far
I run shorter radius rod on the top to gain positive camber as the suspension compresses also

Can eliminate the toe change on it by mounting the front arm mount in line with the rear radius rods inboard mounts Then the arm pivots on the same centrelines

That's a very interesting idea. Are there any examples of this being done? What is the downside? I've been going round and round with the whole 3 link,5link,a-arm/toe-rod IRS.

Iggsy
11-15-2013, 08:58 PM
Chris,

How much toe do you think you are getting? I would have thought a couple of degrees max would be OK? Are you you running a 3/4 rod end on the front attachment point?

I will try and find some pictures of the Subaru powered buggies. I reckon the are top notch for what they cost to build. Seems they are very reliable too.

whitedragon64
11-17-2013, 05:20 PM
Yeah Mate up around 4 deg toe on her
And yes using 3/4" heim joint at the front and 5/8" for the radius rods

Iggsy
11-26-2013, 04:20 AM
Modifications & more modifications.......... New front end slowly coming together. Also thinking of ditching the bike motor for mid mount suburu.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0857_zps306595ea.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0857_zps306595ea.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0858_zps62b0ac2f.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0858_zps62b0ac2f.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0861_zps0fed4a89.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0861_zps0fed4a89.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0863_zpsf22b7cd2.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0863_zpsf22b7cd2.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0862_zps92818b06.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0862_zps92818b06.jpg.html)

K-fab
11-26-2013, 08:11 AM
Nice spindle.

Even better shoes. ;)

Bullnerd
11-26-2013, 11:23 AM
Very nice!

CARLRIDDLE
11-26-2013, 01:06 PM
Steel toed safty wear, check!
Beefy spindle, check!

Carry on.

Iggsy
11-26-2013, 03:57 PM
Don't you like my chinese safety boots? :confused:
Allows for easy removeal (and entry) of hotties :).

Glock n Ballz
11-26-2013, 04:06 PM
I dig it. ALmost looks as cook as my buggy. Lol..kidding of course.
Seriously though..I be diggin it.

K-fab
11-27-2013, 08:10 AM
Don't you like my chinese safety boots? :confused:
Allows for easy removeal (and entry) of hotties :).Oh, I wasn't making fun at all - I'm a flip flop wearer pretty much anytime other than in my shop. I get funny looks this time of year when there's snow on the ground and I'm wandering around in mine.

Shoes suck.

Iggsy
11-28-2013, 02:00 PM
It's all right mate, I was only making a joke :).

As for snow, I have never seen it, so I can only imagine whats its like. I'm from northern Queensland in Aus and there only two types of weather, hot and very hot. Flip flops are very popular.......

MongooseGSXR750
11-30-2013, 05:55 PM
They're not flip flops, they're "thongs" not to be confused with "a Thong"

deaner
11-30-2013, 06:37 PM
They're not flip flops, they're "thongs" not to be confused with "a Thong"
If you drop something hot on one and it catches fire, you have to quickly take your thong off. We love pix, but not pix of you taking off your Thong. LOL[smilie=ashamed.gif]

Iggsy
12-01-2013, 03:26 AM
That's why I went with flip flops mate, I didn't want our American friends to get the wrong idea :).

Bit more done over the weekend. I don't think it looks too bad.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0895_zps8d059cd4.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0895_zps8d059cd4.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0894_zpsdc7f21b1.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0894_zpsdc7f21b1.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0893_zps876b559d.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0893_zps876b559d.jpg.html)

Bullnerd
12-01-2013, 09:10 AM
Awesome! Looks great.

Really like the lower arms.IS that rect. tube with the bottom sectioned and rewelded?

Are you going to re-enforce the uni-ball cup?

fabdaddy
12-01-2013, 12:48 PM
beautiful. your tube work is perfect. great retrofit.btw the KING needs new boots he he

Iggsy
12-04-2013, 04:45 AM
Thanks!

The notching is far from perfect, I do all of it by eye. Two grinders set up, one with a cutting disk, the other with a grinding disk to give them a quick rub.

A-arm are just trimmed up box section like you say. I have gussets cut for the heim cup, but I haven't welded them on because I wanted to make a slug to press into the hole first to try and minimize any warping.

Those boots were brand new. I made the mistake of getting WD-40 on them. [smilie=banghead.gi:

Iggsy
12-09-2013, 10:43 PM
New front end getting closer.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/IMG_0917_zps4575f1a2.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/IMG_0917_zps4575f1a2.jpg.html).

Iggsy
01-12-2014, 03:50 AM
Barracuda front end change is nearly done. Now to figure what to do with the back.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/Buggynewfront_zpsd0e6fc77.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/Buggynewfront_zpsd0e6fc77.jpg.html)

K-fab
01-12-2014, 09:12 AM
That looks great! Really well done.

I'm not used to seeing the bypass air shox that King does - man those look good.

nutz4sand
01-12-2014, 11:23 AM
Mate, I'm seriously nearly done with bike motors. The power is great, but the reliability, not so much. I'm sick of chains and electric reverse. I was keen to build one of those gearboxes designed, but very exy if you can't cut gears.......


Insead of cutting gears which as you stated can be an issue have you looked at maybe using gears from available in your area trannies from popular makers of tough trannsmissions? Then parts can be had at scrap yards or a local dealer for relativley cheap and you know they are good.

Iggsy
01-13-2014, 04:33 AM
Thanks guys.

I quite like the king triple bypass air shocks, but unfortunately king won't supply them anymore. Not sure why, mustn't have been a good seller. A company called ADS makes something very similar. Apparently the quality is as good as fox or king.

Nuts, I'm not to keen to much around with scrapped gearboxes. Nothing is never ideal when working with scrap and I don't want to be swapping one problem for another.

lencas
01-13-2014, 05:16 AM
Nice work mate, certainly looks the good now.
Also looks like it should take a beating a little better than the Barracuda design.

Cheers.

Iggsy
01-28-2014, 04:05 AM
More Barracuda mods.

I have a lot of bearing failures with the standard hubs, so I though I would give an intrepid hub design a go. Also went to outboard brakes at the same time. A bit heavy, about 12 kg!

All I need to find now some rims. 15 x 7 in 5 stud is harder to find than I originally thought.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/Hubs_zps38e8df66.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/Hubs_zps38e8df66.jpg.html)

Iggsy
01-31-2014, 04:38 AM
I've been thinking about how to mount an rpm gearbox in an a-arm assembly and still keep maximum flexibility for drive configuration. The problem is the top forward a-arm mount is in the way.

What do you think of this concept? Top a-arm mounts fairly close together and it is bit ugly... Sprocket centers would be about 370mm.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/AssembledCuda_zps8703396a.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/AssembledCuda_zps8703396a.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/AssembledCuda2_zpsace00e9a.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/AssembledCuda2_zpsace00e9a.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/AssembledCuda3_zps8537a4dc.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/AssembledCuda3_zps8537a4dc.jpg.html)

TALON
01-31-2014, 06:05 AM
Ya only think its ugly cause you aint used to it yet,, I think for what you are trying to do ( leave your drive options open ) you are thinking down the right track . I know these are early concept sketches (and nice ones I might add ) But I think the secret will lie in tying the rear of the cradle into an adjustable support then to a rear upper engine mount , done well why wont it work .

As for chain length, mine not a great deal longer on an RPM and I am getting pretty good chain service with a remote oiler but our races arnt as long as yours ,, 1.5 hours tops .

CARLRIDDLE
01-31-2014, 06:23 AM
The cradle that Protodie makes/sells does what you ask. Ship it flat or buy the files and have cut.
I'd try to lean the box back more for more chain links. And many run the sprocket around the forward upper arm.

TALON
01-31-2014, 06:36 AM
I think he is thinking of adapting an external gearcase of some sort down the track, hence the
upper arm set up , but for sure lean it back for length if you can till that happens ,, more links the merrier.

bdkw1
01-31-2014, 10:42 AM
Me being Me, I would make the upper an A-arm. Have the front mount tie into the down tube. That would give you room to rotate the RPM back for a longer chain. Run the largest front sprocket you can get and do the gear reduction in the box.

Iggsy
01-31-2014, 01:46 PM
Thanks for the input. I'm not particularly fixed on a-arms, its just my chassis does not lend well to trailing arms, and I tried a quick 3 link setup, but I could not find a spot where the toe change was acceptable. 5 link is outside of my design skills.


But I think the secret will lie in tying the rear of the cradle into an adjustable support then to a rear upper engine mountTalon, I'm not quite sure what you mean here? The part about tying the cradle into an adjustable support? I have not tied the engine to the cradle, as one day I'd like to upgrade the CBR1000xx to a busa, just need some more pages in the checkbook :D. The races I do are actually pretty short, maybe 20km long. You would do the course perhaps 10 times a day over 2 days, so 400 km for the weekend.


he is thinking of adapting an external gearcase of some sort Yep, that's why I'm trying to give myself as much room as possible as around the RPM input sprocket, so it is possibly to do a chain case or similar. No a-arm in the front means I could theoretically take the cover off and service the chain in position.

The Protodie unit is very nice for sure, but I don't think the clearance exists around that front top arm mount for what I want to do.


Have the front mount tie into the down tube. That would give you room to rotate the RPM back for a longer chain. Run the largest front sprocket you can get and do the gear reduction in the box. I did think about this, but I thought it would stuff up the CV plunge. Should you make the rear a-arm mounts wide to suite, or keep them in the same spot? Also, I would like to be able to service the chain in position, and even with a wide front a-arm mounts, I'm not sure this would be possible.

bdkw1
01-31-2014, 03:37 PM
Take a look at the Can-am Maveric rear arm mounts. They are angled so that they are wider in the front and narrower in the rear. If you brought the rear mounts in you could move the fronts out and still maintain the pivot axis through you CV for minimal plunge.

Iggsy
01-31-2014, 03:58 PM
Ok, thanks for the heads up.

By the look of it, the cam am supension is sort of like a front suspension setup - it has a tie rod that keeps the toe change at zero through the suspension travel.

bdkw1
01-31-2014, 05:21 PM
Yes.

TALON
01-31-2014, 06:38 PM
Had a bit of a looky at the Can Am set up ,,cool little thing.

2013 Can-Am Maverick 16.20 AM (http://cocomponents.com/dealer/powersports-industry/cam-am-maverick/attachment/2013-can-am-maverick-16-20-am-2/)

[quote=Iggsy;277593]

Talon, I'm not quite sure what you mean here? The part about tying the cradle into an adjustable support? I have not tied the engine to the cradle, as one day I'd like to upgrade the CBR1000xx to a busa, just need some more pages in the checkbook [smilie=biggrin.gif]. The races I do are actually pretty short, maybe 20km long. You would do the course perhaps 10 times a day over 2 days, so 400 km for the weekend.

I was thinking a girder/ truss setup that bolted to the rear of the cradle with the turn buckle adjustment for the rpm and a solid mount to lock off once chain is adjusted.
Then it would continue forward and pick up the rear engine mounts,and possibly the forward down tubes, fully removable of course,then you could easily modify one end for a motor swap,and remove if the box ever needs to be pulled, this i think would tie the whole show together and make it nice and stiff.

If you do end up going with a gear case instead of a chain case you could piss the adjustment part off all together .

Iggsy
02-01-2014, 04:54 AM
Done some more modeling today and I think the Cam Am style suspension would work very well in an RPM application. I reckon I could get sprockets up to 180 mm diameter in there. I can't get the plunge perfect, but it is less than 1/2" over 18" of travel which should be good enough. 8* degree camber at full bump.

If I decide to get an RPM, I think this is the way I will go.

Talon, have you had any problems with yours? I looked at some of Standfasts videos on this site and if it survives that sort abuse it should shit it in my car with the style of driving I do.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/CamAmStyleRearEnd_zps1d4c3ade.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/CamAmStyleRearEnd_zps1d4c3ade.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/CamAmStyleRearEnd3_zps0e1dc029.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/CamAmStyleRearEnd3_zps0e1dc029.jpg.html)

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/CamAmStyleRearEnd2_zps7e262d6e.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/CamAmStyleRearEnd2_zps7e262d6e.jpg.html)

Bullnerd
02-01-2014, 10:51 AM
I'm not the expert in this group, but that looks really nice to me! And compliments the great job you did on the front also.

I think the frame looks better better/stronger without the huge sheetmetal box in the back too.

Good call BDKW1!

I'd squeeze the shock onto the lower arm, but thats just my opinion.

Can show the whole buggy again?

Did I ever mention I'm completely jealous of every single person that can do SW Like that!

bdkw1
02-01-2014, 11:08 AM
Looks good!

Iggsy
02-01-2014, 05:02 PM
Thanks!

Bullnerd, you want to see a cad version right? Not the real one?

Just curious, why should the shock go on the bottom a-arm? Top is definitely easier for packaging reasons.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u38/SimonsPhotos1982/AssembledCudaCam-AmRear_zps0667bb27.jpg (http://s164.photobucket.com/user/SimonsPhotos1982/media/AssembledCudaCam-AmRear_zps0667bb27.jpg.html)

TALON
02-01-2014, 07:24 PM
Talon, have you had any problems with yours? I looked at some of Standfasts videos on this site and if it survives that sort abuse it should shit it in my car with the style of driving I do.


No mate ,, all good so far ,bit hard to estimate the hours on it but all been hard hours no real cruising ,bit of testing ,but mostly racing. Gets plenty of fresh oil though .

I agree with bull on the ditching of the plate case work if you can ,,had that setup on the old car and did not like it . Good lead by bdk on the arm style, looks like that will do all you want it to.

Bullnerd
02-01-2014, 07:58 PM
Yeah I meant the CAD model. looks cool!

No reason for the shock on the lower. Just in my head I picture the upright "pushing" on the shock when its mounted to the top arm and "pulling" the shock when mounted to the lower. I'd rather beef up the lower arm and move the shock in towards the frame to get the correct motion ratio. Again, all in my head, you have more suspension building experience than I do.

bdkw1
02-01-2014, 10:00 PM
I would move a few tubes, if you can't get the cross bar behind the motor down to fit between the A-arm mounts you may want to put some bracing tubes in there. Also, move the cross bar in the rear down to be between the A-arm mounts and move the triangulation tube down to match. Then add another over the motor opening. Might have to make that one removable to get the motor out?


http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g122/bdkw1/CamAmStyleRearEnd_zps86d0b6d9.jpg (http://s55.photobucket.com/user/bdkw1/media/CamAmStyleRearEnd_zps86d0b6d9.jpg.html)

Iggsy
02-02-2014, 12:08 AM
Thanks for input bdkw1, but unfortunately I can't do any of them.

Motor bay braces will foul on the engine casing on the right and power steering assembly on the left.

Can't bring braces down between a-arm mounts because that would foul the area I'm trying to keep clear for the RPM chain.

Can't shift the braces on the tail down because that will foul the RPM sprocket.

I do have some other ideas for bracing, but I'm trying to get my mid board hub design polished at the moment

deaner
02-02-2014, 10:44 AM
For the motor bay braces, could you put a bend in the middle of the brace so that it bulges out for clearance? Maybe the tail brace could have a bend near the end for clearance also.

Iggsy
04-14-2014, 08:32 AM
Got to test the front a couple of weeks ago. Performed pretty well I think. I hit a small 50mm tree and nothing broke so I was pretty happy. Had the rear sitting a bit low and the front a little high, but all in all, wasn't too bad to drive.

Broke the left hand side drive bolts on the first day and managed to fix it at the track. Broke the right hand drive bolts on day 2, had no more spares so that was the end of the weekend.

Have some video camera footage from the car, but internet is playing up so it will be a while before I can upload it.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/suspension-wheels-tires/30808d1397482029-barracuda-front-suspension-redesign-car1.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/suspension-wheels-tires/30809d1397482048-barracuda-front-suspension-redesign-car2.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/suspension-wheels-tires/30810d1397482070-barracuda-front-suspension-redesign-broken-drive.jpg

K-fab
04-14-2014, 09:52 AM
I have to agree that the back end looks a bit on the low side. Add 50 lbs of nitrogen and see how it sits then.

Front end high isn't necessarily a bad thing. How did it handle? I'd guess it pushed a bit with the drooped back. Get the rear end up a tad and give it another shot.

What grade bolts did you use?

Iggsy
04-14-2014, 07:16 PM
Handled not to bad. Maybe a little bit "twitchy" if that makes sense.

Bolts were m10 fine 12.9 socket head capscrews.

Deranged
04-14-2014, 10:27 PM
Ok, the bypass shocks! Are those air bypass shocks?!

Justin

chevy5469
04-14-2014, 11:52 PM
I noticed there is a angle to the lower arm, I am trying to build my own buggy, any tips for me when I design my own arm? Whats the angle for? Thanks
Edward
chevy5469@yahoo.com

Iggsy
04-15-2014, 05:50 AM
Yep, air bypass shocks :).


I noticed there is a angle to the lower armWhat angle do you mean? if you are talking about the shape of the lower front arm, it is just a trimmed bit of RHS. 75 x 35 x 3mm. I trimmed it because you only need the thickness at the greatest bending moment at the shock mount. I spent ages in CAD getting it all right.

Deranged
04-15-2014, 10:46 AM
Those are RAD! I bet the tuning them is really easier than having to dis assemble the whole shock. Furthermore on these small buggies having a separate coil-over makes it nice to package in the tight areas. VERY nice upgrade to your chassis as well.

Cheers!

Justin


Yep, air bypass shocks :).

What angle do you mean? if you are talking about the shape of the lower front arm, it is just a trimmed bit of RHS. 75 x 35 x 3mm. I trimmed it because you only need the thickness at the greatest bending moment at the shock mount. I spent ages in CAD getting it all right.

K-fab
04-15-2014, 01:52 PM
I noticed there is a angle to the lower arm, I am trying to build my own buggy, any tips for me when I design my own arm? Whats the angle for? Thanks
Edward
chevy5469@yahoo.com
Are you talking about the way the arms are not parallel to the ground? That's called Rake. Search on the board and you'll find all sorts of info on it.

Iggsy
04-15-2014, 08:50 PM
The rake angle is 10 degrees.

Iggsy
04-26-2014, 06:24 AM
Hopefully a few extra pins will solve my driveline problem. Turned some old cv bolts into drive pins and drilled a some blind holes in the back of the CV hub. Now I have 6 pins and 6 bolts doing the driving.

Iggsy
04-30-2014, 09:23 AM
Testing the front suspension.
Drive bolts shit themselves on the second lap, you can hear them crunching.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sv2iwymL7k

TALON
04-30-2014, 01:13 PM
Nice vid Igs ,, man that course looks like a blast .

fabdaddy
04-30-2014, 01:55 PM
your pics are great man your body roll is extreme. have you thought of a sway bar. I added one and the oversteer it created makes the drivability amazing. just a thought. your new front end looks tits. and what an awesome track to ride on

Iggsy
04-30-2014, 07:30 PM
Cheers,

To be honest, I didn't really notice any body roll driving the car, but I did notice it looking at the pictures later on. I have my shocks set pretty soft - perhaps this is contributing?

I have a change planned for the rear end to get an FNR box in there, so I will get that done and see what it is like then.

Iggsy
05-11-2014, 08:54 AM
A video from the Burdekin 180. Need to get some editing software so skip to 2:00. First day was a bit crap, blew a CV on heat 2, then then steering arm broke of the front right spindle and sent me into a tree. Damage was minor, so managed to get it fixed and had a good day on day two.

This is the best track around Townsville in my opinion, some great jumps. Need more power though, topping out at about 120 in the straights.

Buggy 111 Burdekin 180 (10-05-14) - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bISHdJEp6bI)

Xbird
05-13-2014, 10:28 AM
That 120 kph or mph? Either way, honkin dookie!:D Looks like someone not familiar with that run could get in over the head really quickly.

Are you shooting with a go pro? if so, there cineform studio freeware works pretty good for basic editing. If not, you may want to try it anyway to see if it will take the file type you're getting.

BTW, if you mention carnage, you gotta post the vid ... mandatory deal ya know! ;)

Deranged
05-13-2014, 11:50 AM
WOAH! Cool track, and cool video! I though I heard a clung while you were rolling up to the line.

Justin

Iggsy
05-13-2014, 11:11 PM
120 km/hr :D

Yep Gopro, so I will look into the software

Unfortunately I didn't have the camera on when I hit the tree and I was busy trying to fix it afterwoods so I don't have any pics.

Good ear, cling is a slightly dodgy CV I have been meaning to replace.

I got some pics off a mate today and I didn't realise how much air I was getting over those jumps!

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/barracuda/30868d1400040662-barracuda-front-suspension-redesign-burdekin-1801.jpg

Bullnerd
05-13-2014, 11:25 PM
Cool stuff Iggsy, thanks for sharing.

Xbird
05-14-2014, 11:22 PM
Nice air! GoPro Studio is the freeware --dl directly off their site. Cineform was an earlier variation iirc. IS 111 your assigned number? Love that one, that's the 'ol shi!house in bowling scoring.:D

Iggsy
05-25-2014, 09:03 AM
Finally got the CAD for a 5 link retrofit sorted for the Barracuda. This should allow me to fit the FNR and solve some of my cracking issues.

bdkw1
05-25-2014, 03:43 PM
Very nice!

Iggsy
05-26-2014, 07:40 AM
Thanks mate. I've drawn it with 5/8 rod ends but I've been told I should go with 3/4. What do you reckon??

K-fab
05-26-2014, 02:24 PM
How heavy is it?
5/8's are pretty beefy and I'd rather wad up a replaceable rod end than a component.
My DezTaz is 2200 lbs and I'm using 5/8's everywhere.

Iggsy
05-26-2014, 06:08 PM
Thanks. I've never weighed the car, but I would reckon 1500-1600 lb.