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2kmoss
11-04-2013, 01:30 PM
Hi all,
I sarted working on parts for the AR51 a few months ago but still have a long way to go. I will post photos and descriptions of the things ive completed so far and then keep the thread updated as I progress. I have not done any assembly or frame welding yet.

Since I'm machining every part possible I wanted to have most everything completed prior to having a large weldment sitting around and in my way while working on other things. I want to keep my garage clutter free for as long as possible:-)

This is my first buggy build and although I do have a bit of experience with metal working I'm pretty new to welding and fabrication. I look forward to any and all feedback I can get that may help me along the way.

Kevin

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 01:48 PM
5/2013
The first thing I did after getting the plans was to start modeling up all of the parts that
needed to be laser cut or water jet cut. Once I started modeling up those parts I took it a step further and went ahead and modeled up a large portion of the buggy to get familiar with how everything fit up. I spent 3-4 weeks of evenings and lunch hours getting this done. Once this was done I ordered all of the tubing and all of the parts water jet cut. Had everything within a couple weeks.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Design_WholeBuggy_zps18cd64e2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Design_WholeBuggy_zps18cd64e2.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/WaterJetParts_zpscc310056.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/WaterJetParts_zpscc310056.jpg.html)

Bullnerd
11-04-2013, 01:51 PM
I dont have "permission to view photos"? Do you know who I am ?

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 02:59 PM
6/2013
I didnt have a tubing bender so that was next on the list. I purchased a Pro Tools HD with the 1 1/4 die. Once it arrived I studied several designs that utilized the Harbor Freight air/hydraulic cylinder for operation. I decided to mount it vertical and drew up a frame, welded it up and hit it with a coat of paint. Hooked it up and played with a couple small pieces and then bent up the main roll bar. The bender in this configuration works great! I used v-blocks clamped to the tubing and a electronic angle gauge to set all of the bends and hold the tube in the proper plane.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Tubing-Bender-Stand_zps3a034345.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Tubing-Bender-Stand_zps3a034345.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/TubingBend-3_zps636d47ee.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/TubingBend-3_zps636d47ee.jpg.html)

bubbajay
11-04-2013, 03:23 PM
Where did you get digital angle gauge?

whitedragon64
11-04-2013, 06:10 PM
Digital Protractor Angle Finder Meter 0 360¬į Magnetic V Groove Upright LCD | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DIGITAL-PROTRACTOR-ANGLE-FINDER-METER-0-360-MAGNETIC-V-GROOVE-Upright-LCD-/321236737964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4acb339fac)

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 06:24 PM
I got mine from Enco. Its a Fowler Mini Mag. Seems to work well.

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:09 PM
8/2013
Got the band saw out and started cutting tubing. I cut and notched every piece required for the A-Arms and almost every piece required for the remainder of the frame. I used my mill for all of the tube notching. I also used the mill to cut all of the compound angles. I set my vise up on top of a rotary table; having this set up and also having a pivoting mill head I can cut almost any angle imaginable. All pieces should be very accurate.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Bung-Sawing_zps903dccde.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Bung-Sawing_zps903dccde.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/TubeNotching-2_zpsf6f8172a.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/TubeNotching-2_zpsf6f8172a.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontEnd-CockpitFrame_Tubing-Complete_zpsb50888b9.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontEnd-CockpitFrame_Tubing-Complete_zpsb50888b9.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/A-ArmParts-Complete_zps4d15c8ef.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/A-ArmParts-Complete_zps4d15c8ef.jpg.html)

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:18 PM
8/2013
Spent a week or two cutting on the lathe. I made every bung, A-Arm bolts, Ejector Sleeve pieces. I also completed all of the tap plates.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/AArmBoltsThreading-2_zpsf279b0f0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/AArmBoltsThreading-2_zpsf279b0f0.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Bung-Turning_zps15d79918.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Bung-Turning_zps15d79918.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Bungs-TapPlates-Complete_zps36ea5126.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Bungs-TapPlates-Complete_zps36ea5126.jpg.html)

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:23 PM
8/2013
Made the A-Arm fixture plate and all of the locating blocks. Since the plate was so large I had to set it up twice in my mill.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/AArmJigPlate-Drilling_zps1911c316.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/AArmJigPlate-Drilling_zps1911c316.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/AArmJigPlate-Assembled_zps7d680819.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/AArmJigPlate-Assembled_zps7d680819.jpg.html)

Bullnerd
11-04-2013, 08:30 PM
Well done!

Nice shop you have there.

Any pics of it?

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:33 PM
9/2013
I spent a couple weeks making the rear center drive assembly. First thing I made were the CV flanges, I cut some stock up and turned these up in the lathe then drilled and tapped the holes in the mill. I then modified the splined shaft and bushing as required and welded up the assembly. Put the weldments back in the lathe and finish machined complete.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CVFlange-Sawing_zpsf5dbb2d5.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CVFlange-Sawing_zpsf5dbb2d5.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CVFlange-Turning_zps499f5cbe.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CVFlange-Turning_zps499f5cbe.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CVFlange-Complete_zpsbb72b43b.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CVFlange-Complete_zpsbb72b43b.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CVFlange-Welded_zps9c5c2dda.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CVFlange-Welded_zps9c5c2dda.jpg.html)

Turned up the bearing housing.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/442b9c2e-fbe5-4401-89d0-cd764f6ae3cb_zpsd4b4772b.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/442b9c2e-fbe5-4401-89d0-cd764f6ae3cb_zpsd4b4772b.jpg.html)


Assembled all components and everything fit together very nicely.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CenterDriveAss-2_zpsad548a7e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CenterDriveAss-2_zpsad548a7e.jpg.html)

Machined the lower tube and all of the details for the chain adjuster. Welded up the chain adjuster and the bearing housing mounts. Sandblasted the weldments and sprayed them with a coat of paint.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CenterDriveAssy-Complete2_zps8efa2c67.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CenterDriveAssy-Complete2_zps8efa2c67.jpg.html)

Up north
11-04-2013, 08:35 PM
Dude excellent work! Your lucky to have a lathe

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:35 PM
10/2013
Found an engine and made a 4 hour drive to pick it up. Its a 2007 GSXR 750 with 6300 miles.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/GSXR750Engine-1_zpsea48cd69.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/GSXR750Engine-1_zpsea48cd69.jpg.html)

wjfawb0
11-04-2013, 08:36 PM
Looking good. It's great to see another one going together. I've got over 300 miles on mine without issues so far. It's a rugged design, for sure.

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:44 PM
10/2013
Decided to work on the front spindle assemblies and hubs. I turned up the front spindles and welded them up with the front uprights. Man them welds are ugly but I think they will hold:-) I then sandblasted and put on a coat of paint.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontSpindles-Complete_zps495055fd.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontSpindles-Complete_zps495055fd.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontUprights-Welded_zps220ad75e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontUprights-Welded_zps220ad75e.jpg.html)

Next i started machining the front hubs. These took several hours to make due to the fact that I hade to remove alot of stock. I roughed them within .03 then put them back in the lathe to finish machine. These two hubs probably produced 3 trash bags of aluminum chips and curly q's.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Stock_zps204e3d64.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Stock_zps204e3d64.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Lathe2_zpsfae60880.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Lathe2_zpsfae60880.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-LatheComplete_zpsb4a43e22.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-LatheComplete_zpsb4a43e22.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Mill1_zps8f72b67a.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Mill1_zps8f72b67a.jpg.html)

Pressed in the bearing cups and assembled, everything fit together well and they turn true.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Assembled_zps8d5e8396.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Assembled_zps8d5e8396.jpg.html)

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:46 PM
10/2013
My wheels showed up. I got 6x14 and 7x14 rims. I'm leaning towards 14" UTV tires. I would love to hear some recommendations for front and rear tires. I'm leaning towards some type of all terrain pattern. Rick's plans call for 26" front and 28" rear tires so I would like to stick to that. I think? Any opinions here?

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Wheels_zps982833d1.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Wheels_zps982833d1.jpg.html)

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:50 PM
10/2013
Since the front uprights were done I decided to weld up the rears. I also went ahead and welded up the pedal boxes. Took a few minutes to go through the remainder of the water jet parts and sort everything and make sure I have everything. I still need to order the rear rotor, sprocket, and caliper mount.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearUprights-WeldedComplete_zps1ff045ee.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearUprights-WeldedComplete_zps1ff045ee.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/PedalBoxes-WeldedComplete_zps0183db7e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/PedalBoxes-WeldedComplete_zps0183db7e.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/WaterJetParts-Organizing_zps7f74ca62.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/WaterJetParts-Organizing_zps7f74ca62.jpg.html)

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:52 PM
11/4/2013
Started working on the rear housing plates last night. I need to put the bends in them but I have no way to bend them conventionaly. I experimented last night milling some slots in 1/4" scrap plate and then bending them along the line. I documented the length of the test part prior to bending so that I would know where to mill the slot in the actual pieces. The bends looked pretty good and were easy to hand bend with the piece clamped in the vise, I think once I weld the back side these will be plenty strong. FYI, I milled a 5/16 wide x .20 Dp. slot along the bend line. I had to mill the centerline of the slot .10" behind the intended outside wall. I can clarify this if anyone is interested. I will attempt this on the housing plates one night this week; I got my fingers crossed it will work well on the full length bend.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousingPlates-TestBend-1_zpsdf049eb2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousingPlates-TestBend-1_zpsdf049eb2.jpg.html)

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:55 PM
Well I've posted up my progress to this point and will update this thread as I get more done. Things should start coming together quickly once I start welding the frame up. I only have a few more things to make before I start. Hope to start welding in the next week.

Kevin

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 08:59 PM
Well done!

Nice shop you have there.

Any pics of it?

Thanks! Its not much to see really, its just a 3 car garage crammed with machines and tools. Luckily im single and its all mine. For now anyway:-) That's a changing this summer. I see a new shop in the back yard in my future.

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 09:00 PM
Well done!

Nice shop you have there.

Any pics of it?


Dude excellent work! Your lucky to have a lathe

Thanks Up North!

2kmoss
11-04-2013, 09:01 PM
Looking good. It's great to see another one going together. I've got over 300 miles on mine without issues so far. It's a rugged design, for sure.

Thanks wjfawb! I got a lot of my inspiration to build one of these from your build thread.

rgvkid
11-04-2013, 09:49 PM
Yes Very nice setup! Its nice when you have all the right tools to work with!

Looking forward to seeing when its all built.

Trouble675
11-05-2013, 08:04 AM
8/2013
Made the A-Arm fixture plate and all of the locating blocks. Since the plate was so large I had to set it up twice in my mill.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/AArmJigPlate-Drilling_zps1911c316.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/AArmJigPlate-Drilling_zps1911c316.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/AArmJigPlate-Assembled_zps7d680819.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/AArmJigPlate-Assembled_zps7d680819.jpg.html)

I had mine laser cut at the local fab shop for right around $40, blocks and all.

Looking good! Nice equipment!

Trouble675
11-05-2013, 08:09 AM
10/2013
Decided to work on the front spindle assemblies and hubs. I turned up the front spindles and welded them up with the front uprights. Man them welds are ugly but I think they will hold:-) I then sandblasted and put on a coat of paint.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontSpindles-Complete_zps495055fd.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontSpindles-Complete_zps495055fd.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontUprights-Welded_zps220ad75e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontUprights-Welded_zps220ad75e.jpg.html)

Next i started machining the front hubs. These took several hours to make due to the fact that I hade to remove alot of stock. I roughed them within .03 then put them back in the lathe to finish machine. These two hubs probably produced 3 trash bags of aluminum chips and curly q's.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Stock_zps204e3d64.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Stock_zps204e3d64.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Lathe2_zpsfae60880.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Lathe2_zpsfae60880.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-LatheComplete_zpsb4a43e22.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-LatheComplete_zpsb4a43e22.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Mill1_zps8f72b67a.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Mill1_zps8f72b67a.jpg.html)

Pressed in the bearing cups and assembled, everything fit together well and they turn true.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontHubs-Assembled_zps8d5e8396.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontHubs-Assembled_zps8d5e8396.jpg.html)

Ok, now you're just showing off!

daaboots
11-06-2013, 07:31 AM
Absolutely excellent work!

2kmoss
11-06-2013, 08:39 AM
I milled slots in both rear housing plates. I then clamped them in the vise sandwiched between some tubing. I heated up the area along the bend then bent them by hand. The bends were very straight and standing open about a degree or so.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousingPlates-Bending_zpsaf28efdd.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousingPlates-Bending_zpsaf28efdd.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousingPlates-Bent_zpsc24f7e7c.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousingPlates-Bent_zpsc24f7e7c.jpg.html)


Put a nice bead of weld along the inside of the bends. After they cooled the bends ended up being overbent about 1-2 degrees. I think thats good enough.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousingPlates-BendsWelded_zpsdcdbc3a9.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousingPlates-BendsWelded_zpsdcdbc3a9.jpg.html)

2kmoss
11-06-2013, 08:40 AM
Absolutely excellent work!

Thank You!

sodman
11-07-2013, 05:01 PM
"All right" one more AR51 getting started . It would be quite a get together to have them and the builders all show up in the same spot. Fall ride 2014 ???
I do have mine up and running and have been working out a few bugs nothing on the design end more just my stupidity. "sorry Rat no vids yet check back tomorrow if it clears off the camera all charged and ready to go.
This car drives like a dream "well done RickS the 2 smoker has a lot of pull this car is fast.
Building is fun but the best part is to sit in the seat and punch the throttle you will not be disappointed.
Great job so far

RickS.
11-07-2013, 05:34 PM
It would be cool to get these all together for a ride someday.
There are now 5 complete that I know of and at least 5 others well under way.

Up north
11-07-2013, 05:51 PM
"All right" one more AR51 getting started . It would be quite a get together to have them and the builders all show up in the same spot. Fall ride 2014 ???
I do have mine up and running and have been working out a few bugs nothing on the design end more just my stupidity. "sorry Rat no vids yet check back tomorrow if it clears off the camera all charged and ready to go.
This car drives like a dream "well done RickS the 2 smoker has a lot of pull this car is fast.
Building is fun but the best part is to sit in the seat and punch the throttle you will not be disappointed.
Great job so far

Sodman, what's your finished weight and what 2 stroke engine are you using

2kmoss
11-12-2013, 07:43 AM
Spent the last few days welding up some of the frame.

Front End
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontEnd-1_zps753cc8b7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontEnd-1_zps753cc8b7.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontEnd-2_zps1e1886e3.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontEnd-2_zps1e1886e3.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontEnd-3_zps682bf418.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontEnd-3_zps682bf418.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontEnd-4_zps8de21a2c.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontEnd-4_zps8de21a2c.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontEnd-6_zpsb3e198b9.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontEnd-6_zpsb3e198b9.jpg.html)

Lower Cockpit Frame
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cockpit-Lower-1_zps78c9434e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cockpit-Lower-1_zps78c9434e.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cockpit-Lower-2_zps8463ed80.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cockpit-Lower-2_zps8463ed80.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cockpit-Lower-3_zps9cc30c7a.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cockpit-Lower-3_zps9cc30c7a.jpg.html)

Pile of completed weldments.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FrontEnd-Cockpit-Lower_Upper_zps4be7acbf.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FrontEnd-Cockpit-Lower_Upper_zps4be7acbf.jpg.html)

Deer season will now put a hold on things for a week or so. Hope to have the frame completed in a couple weeks.

mmobley
11-12-2013, 08:29 AM
Looks good.

leok
11-17-2013, 09:54 PM
Nice work 2K. If I didn't already have 2 Barracudas, I would be working on an AR51.

Leo

2kmoss
11-24-2013, 07:36 PM
After some great days deer hunting I got to spend some time on welding up the frame this weekend.

Rear Housing Assembled
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousing-Assy1_zps19ccfff7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousing-Assy1_zps19ccfff7.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousing-Assy2_zpsa2c754c6.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousing-Assy2_zpsa2c754c6.jpg.html)

Its getting bigger!
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cockpit-Assy_zpsa5001d33.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cockpit-Assy_zpsa5001d33.jpg.html)

Tacked on front end.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cockpit-FrontEnd-Assy1_zps79cdcb95.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cockpit-FrontEnd-Assy1_zps79cdcb95.jpg.html)

Added roll bars.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CompleteFrame-Assy1_zpsb38d10b0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CompleteFrame-Assy1_zpsb38d10b0.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CompleteFrame-Assy2_zpse7ae0293.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CompleteFrame-Assy2_zpse7ae0293.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CompleteFrame-Assy3_zps985acc3d.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CompleteFrame-Assy3_zps985acc3d.jpg.html)

Might drop the motor in to test fit and verify motor mounts before i finish up the frame. Figure it will be easier to take in in and out from the top while fitting up the mounts.

Bullnerd
11-24-2013, 07:41 PM
Very nice.

Did you change the ground clamp on your Hobart? If you can, try to ground on a spot where you ground off the the mill scale.

2kmoss
11-24-2013, 07:50 PM
Very nice.

Did you change the ground clamp on your Hobart? If you can, try to ground on a spot where you ground off the the mill scale.

Thanks Bullnerd! Yes I did change out the ground clamp to a solid copper clamp. And yes I need to start doing that and have been intending on it because I do notice my starts tend to pop and it takes a second for the arc to stabilize. I just get in a hurry and forget. I'm glad you brought that up, maybe now I'll make it a point.

Kevin

Trouble675
11-24-2013, 09:16 PM
Yep. It looks like it's supposed to! Great job!

sodman
11-25-2013, 06:05 AM
Looking good man . Do you find yourself looking at the frame from all different angles and saying this thing is sharp looking . I know I did I think I spent more time looking at the frame than I did working on it . Keep up the good work.

2kmoss
11-25-2013, 07:08 AM
Looking good man . Do you find yourself looking at the frame from all different angles and saying this thing is sharp looking . I know I did I think I spent more time looking at the frame than I did working on it . Keep up the good work.

LOL. Yes I do! Its funny you say that because I spent alot of time in the garage last night admiring this thing when I could have been working on it :)

mmobley
11-25-2013, 07:10 AM
After some great days deer hunting I got to spend some time on welding up the frame this weekend.

Rear Housing Assembled
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousing-Assy1_zps19ccfff7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousing-Assy1_zps19ccfff7.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearHousing-Assy2_zpsa2c754c6.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearHousing-Assy2_zpsa2c754c6.jpg.html)

Its getting bigger!
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cockpit-Assy_zpsa5001d33.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cockpit-Assy_zpsa5001d33.jpg.html)

Tacked on front end.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cockpit-FrontEnd-Assy1_zps79cdcb95.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cockpit-FrontEnd-Assy1_zps79cdcb95.jpg.html)

Added roll bars.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CompleteFrame-Assy1_zpsb38d10b0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CompleteFrame-Assy1_zpsb38d10b0.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CompleteFrame-Assy2_zpse7ae0293.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CompleteFrame-Assy2_zpse7ae0293.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/CompleteFrame-Assy3_zps985acc3d.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/CompleteFrame-Assy3_zps985acc3d.jpg.html)

Might drop the motor in to test fit and verify motor mounts before i finish up the frame. Figure it will be easier to take in in and out from the top while fitting up the mounts.

Good idea. BTW you are trucking right along. Its looking very good.

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 08:27 AM
My tires showed up last week and I got them mounted. They are Maxxis 4-speed 9x14x26 on front and GBC Mongrel 10x14x28 on rear.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Wheels-Tires-Mounted_zpsafd7db5c.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Wheels-Tires-Mounted_zpsafd7db5c.jpg.html)

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 08:59 AM
Prior to finishing the cage I dropped the motor into the chassis to check fit and verify motor mounts. The motor sits up a little high and I wish it was a bit lower in the frame but this would require buying or making a shallow oil pan and totally reworking the exhaust. I donít think all that work would be worth 2-3Ē so I will just mount it as is.

Mitch (mmobley) used the exact motor in his build and mounted it in the stock configuration. He was kind enough to provide me the DXF files of his motor mounts. I plotted them out and made some paper templates. These fit perfect and placed the motor as low as possible keeping the stock exhaust about a half inch above the skid plate. Thanks a bunch Mitch!
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Motor-Fitup-1_zps44fa9303.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Motor-Fitup-1_zps44fa9303.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Motor-Fitup-3_zps5b7cf3bb.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Motor-Fitup-3_zps5b7cf3bb.jpg.html)

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 09:06 AM
Once the motor mounts were figured out I went ahead and finished up the rest of the cage. Iíve still got to put in the pedal box tabs and the steering mounts. Is there any reason to hold off on fully welding up the frame now? Should I wait until Iíve mounted the A-Arms and shocks and test the fit?

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Chassis-Complete-1_zps254e49f5.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Chassis-Complete-1_zps254e49f5.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Chassis-Complete-3_zps1121cd02.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Chassis-Complete-3_zps1121cd02.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Chassis-Complete-2_zps67eae774.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Chassis-Complete-2_zps67eae774.jpg.html)

mmobley
12-02-2013, 10:22 AM
You are really moving right along. What is your motor hanging from?? ...a ceiling fan...;)

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 11:23 AM
You are really moving right along. What is your motor hanging from?? ...a ceiling fan...;)

Haha! It almost appears that way:-) I've got an electric hoist mounted in the attic, the cable comes through a small hole in the ceiling. Its a harbor freight hoist with a 450 lb capacity.

wjfawb0
12-02-2013, 11:34 AM
I used the "bear hug the gsxr750" method until I got a chain for my engine hoist. The hoists leave your shirt a lot cleaner. :D

RickS.
12-02-2013, 11:42 AM
Once you have all bracing in place you can full weld.
This includes steering column cross brace and the front upright braces. (from lower to upper frame.)
I don't see these in your photos.
Upper rear shock mounts go in at assembly.
With arms and shocks in place.
You want to set this up using a 1/8" spacer between the lower frame rail and lower a arm.
Then lay the shock down with upper mount and tack in place.
This will set full droop and allow maximum travel without exceeding the max. cv angles.

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 12:37 PM
Once you have all bracing in place you can full weld.
This includes steering column cross brace and the front upright braces. (from lower to upper frame.)
I don't see these in your photos.
Upper rear shock mounts go in at assembly.
With arms and shocks in place.
You want to set this up using a 1/8" spacer between the lower frame rail and lower a arm.
Then lay the shock down with upper mount and tack in place.
This will set full droop and allow maximum travel without exceeding the max. cv angles.

I was planning on installing the steering braces prior to full welding (waiting on 1 waterjet piece) but was going to add the front end braces after I get some of the front end welds completed first. I think I will have a hard time accessing some of the welds if I install the remaining braces in the front end (I think there are 6, I have them cut.) Do you think it will be ok if I weld up some of the hard to reach welds then add the remaining braces and then fully weld the rest?

I'm glad you mentioned the method to set up the rear shocks. I was unsure about it but figured I would need the shocks mounted to the a-arms prior to welding in the rear shock mounts.

Thanks for your feedback! It is certainly appreciated.

RickS.
12-02-2013, 12:51 PM
Yes you could weld some of the hard to teach areas first.
I do that on some of the sub assemblies before I'm complete.
Just be smart about it. It is pretty well braced at this point.

K-fab
12-02-2013, 03:52 PM
That's really looking nice.

You're getting ready to find out that the first 75% of the build only takes 25% of the time. The fun parts start next!

That's cool about the little hoist - could have used it on more than one occasion. It's surprising what you can find at HF if you pay attention.

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 04:14 PM
That's really looking nice.

You're getting ready to find out that the first 75% of the build only takes 25% of the time. The fun parts start next!

That's cool about the little hoist - could have used it on more than one occasion. It's surprising what you can find at HF if you pay attention.

Thanks Kfab. You are so right. I'm now thinking about making shifters, gas tanks, cooling systems, wiring, skid plates, body panels, dash boards, yada yada yada on and on:-))) Long way to go!

MrBracket
12-02-2013, 04:26 PM
Looks great, very nice fab work! Your shop is soooo clean, how do you guys do that!??!?!?!?!?? :eek: I feel like such a slob!!

K-fab
12-02-2013, 04:49 PM
Your shop is soooo clean, how do you guys do that!??!?!?!?!?? :eek: I feel like such a slob!!HA! So it wasn't only me feeling this way. Thank you MrB.

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 05:00 PM
HA! So it wasn't only me feeling this way. Thank you MrB.

I have to admit it; I'm an anal neat freak! Can't stand a mess. Don't know why but sometimes I spend as much time cleaning as I do working:-) first step is admitting you have a problem. Lol

deaner
12-02-2013, 08:19 PM
With a shop that clean.....what do you do when you need a chunk of scrap steel to clamp something down or something?
When you grind a little, do you clean up right away? Or wait till the end of the day?
I gotta figure this out, cause my shop's always a mess.[smilie=shocked.gif]

2kmoss
12-02-2013, 09:04 PM
With a shop that clean.....what do you do when you need a chunk of scrap steel to clamp something down or something?
When you grind a little, do you clean up right away? Or wait till the end of the day?
I gotta figure this out, cause my shop's always a mess.[smilie=shocked.gif]

When I need a piece or bar of steel I grab it off the rack I have on the wall:-) and I usually won't trip on anything:p

Trouble675
12-03-2013, 06:17 AM
When I need a piece or bar of steel I grab it off the rack I have on the wall:-) and I usually won't trip on anything:p


You are a sick man. :p

K-fab
12-03-2013, 04:44 PM
This is what a proper, messy bench is supposed to look like!
It's covered in grinder crap, little chunks of metal, etc..
The floor was even worse - like walking on a sandy concrete pad.
http://www.yellowdogracing.com/RZR/properbench.jpg

and, I cleaned it up this afternoon...

Duane
12-03-2013, 08:27 PM
K-fab's bench looks like mine.

2kmoss
12-04-2013, 06:51 AM
This is what a proper, messy bench is supposed to look like!
It's covered in grinder crap, little chunks of metal, etc..
The floor was even worse - like walking on a sandy concrete pad.

and, I cleaned it up this afternoon...

Ohhhh [smilie=shocked.gif] that would drive me crazy:D I couldnt get any work done with my bench looking like that. LOL

Once my floor starts getting gritty enough to feel it when walking out comes the leaf blower and the garage door opens and a 80mph broom cleans it out in seconds! And my tools get put away almost immendiately after I'm done using them:rolleyes:

I'm sick I tell ya........

2kmoss
12-09-2013, 12:26 PM
I received and email from Enco letting me know about the cyber monday sale; they were offering 20% off and free shipping. I've been wanting a belt grinder for the shop for awhile and have been planning on building one at some point. I also have looked at the Kalamazoo 2x42 in the past and thought it was a good price for a made in USA model with a Baldor motor. Well its $500 normally but Enco had it on sale and I got the 20% off so I got it delivered to my door for $327! I couldnt build one for that so I had to get it. Let me tell you if I knew how handy and how well this thing eats metal I would have gotten one a long time ago. This thing will eat thru 1/4" steel like its not hardly there! I've only had it for a few days and I seem to use it every time I turn around. I spent a few hours and built a quick down and dirty stand for it as well.

And K-Fab you would have been proud; after using this thing a bunch my garage floor was a filthy mess all weekend:D

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/BeltSander-1_zpsc4aa2873.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/BeltSander-1_zpsc4aa2873.jpg.html)

2kmoss
12-09-2013, 12:34 PM
I spent some of the weekend welding up all of my A-Arms. I had previously built the fixture and notched all the tubing so I only had to sand all the tubes and weld them up. They all turned out pretty well; I do wish my welds were a bit tidier though.


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/A-ArmFix-1_zps6fa18487.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/A-ArmFix-1_zps6fa18487.jpg.html)


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/A-Arms-1_zpsa2eaa7c3.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/A-Arms-1_zpsa2eaa7c3.jpg.html)


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/A-Arms-4_zps878950c0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/A-Arms-4_zps878950c0.jpg.html)


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/A-Arms-2_zps31c1afd9.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/A-Arms-2_zps31c1afd9.jpg.html)

Crewyb
12-09-2013, 12:41 PM
i need your garage in my life i build mine in a small dark corner at work on a piece of wood with a grinder ,drill and a tri mig build looks to be a very high standard keep up the good work

mmobley
12-09-2013, 01:21 PM
Belt grinder looks like it would be pretty handy. I am running out of room in my shop. I would like to add on a 24 foot x 30 foot addition next year but not sure if the funds will be there. Keep up the good work.

Bullnerd
12-09-2013, 02:29 PM
Big fan of belt sanders, I have two 6x48s, Congrats on the new one.

rgvkid
12-11-2013, 12:44 PM
2KMoss, Lookin Great Man! You must have a night crew that comes in and sweeps after your done fabbing! HAHA! Space is clean.

Is the Hobart a 135?
what size wire are you using?
If it is a 110 welder then try turning the Voltage all the way up or a bit under, depending on the wire size, and slow your wire speed down a bit. It looks like your welds are a bit cold and not getting as good a penetration. Also make sure that you bevel the edges of all the material coming together at the seams. This way the weld bead will bite the material better and it will lay flatter. You should see a good amount of bluing around the bead.

If your worried about the Spatter, then try playing with the gas flow a bit. I prefer around 15 on the gas and I use CO2/Argon. I can get clean welds with CO2 by itself but not as clean as CO2/Argon Mix.

Also, try using some anti Spatter spray, makes clean up easier. I actually use Generic Pam from the 99cent store. Just not the Flavored one like Garlic, because it makes me hungry when welding. LOL!
Anti Spatter at welding store is usually about $5, which is why I use the spray from 99cent store. Works great.

2kmoss
12-11-2013, 08:13 PM
2KMoss, Lookin Great Man! You must have a night crew that comes in and sweeps after your done fabbing! HAHA! Space is clean.

Is the Hobart a 135?
what size wire are you using?
If it is a 110 welder then try turning the Voltage all the way up or a bit under, depending on the wire size, and slow your wire speed down a bit. It looks like your welds are a bit cold and not getting as good a penetration. Also make sure that you bevel the edges of all the material coming together at the seams. This way the weld bead will bite the material better and it will lay flatter. You should see a good amount of bluing around the bead.

If your worried about the Spatter, then try playing with the gas flow a bit. I prefer around 15 on the gas and I use CO2/Argon. I can get clean welds with CO2 by itself but not as clean as CO2/Argon Mix.

Also, try using some anti Spatter spray, makes clean up easier. I actually use Generic Pam from the 99cent store. Just not the Flavored one like Garlic, because it makes me hungry when welding. LOL!
Anti Spatter at welding store is usually about $5, which is why I use the spray from 99cent store. Works great.

My welder is a Hobart 187. I do put a small bevel on all edges prior to welding and I also have been using spatter spray but I probably need to spray it on a bit thicker. Also these pictures were taken after I wire wheeled all the welds so all the bluing of the metal is removed. I think I'm getting decent penetration because the backsides of the tubing on the insides have blueing and it appears I'm getting pretty sound welds, but I'm certainly not an expert. I have tried turning down the wire speed but if I go any lower then I don't get that nice sizzle sound and the welder starts to hiss more than sizzle. Im also using 75/25 argon co2 mix with .030 wire and am running about 22cft/hr gas flow. I would love to reduce the spatter and the size of my beads but I'm not sure what to try next. Was thinking of trying some .023 wire but at this point I'll probably just stick with what I'm using. Thanks for the feedback!

Kevin

Bullnerd
12-11-2013, 08:16 PM
Go to the welding tips and tricks web site. Watch some of his mig videos. He also explains how to get real close with wire feed speed.

2kmoss
12-11-2013, 08:46 PM
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mobile%20Uploads/20131211_212459_zpse691d8de.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131211_212459_zpse691d8de.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mobile%20Uploads/20131211_212522_zpsb149c41f.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131211_212522_zpsb149c41f.jpg.html)

Here are a couple pics inside the tubing. Do these look OK?

2kmoss
12-11-2013, 09:37 PM
You can certainly see where I started and stopped. Do you think I should run a bit hotter?

mmobley
12-12-2013, 06:11 AM
I thought your welds looked a little cold too but after seeing these pics of the inside of the tube it certainly looks like you are getting penetration. Some brands of welders do not weld as smooth as others. Maybe that has something to do with it.

Duane
12-12-2013, 08:37 AM
Rgvkid, I had not heard of the Pam trick. I'm gonna try that as the stuff I have now is just too messy.

rgvkid
12-12-2013, 07:24 PM
Yah I think the 99cent store generic Pam works better then the actual Pam. Pam sprays too heavy. The generic sprays a bit lighter.

People say that Mig Welding is easy. Yah it is but when your building something that is going to get pounded with 1000 pounds of weight, twisted, compressed, and vibrated then No its not easy.

I generally use .025 wire when building cages but your gaps have to be pretty tight and right on. Its harder to fill in gaps then using .030 or .035. But I feel that I have better control on the bead and heat penetration with .025. Only down side is that you run through alot of wire.

You can pick up a 1lb. spool of .025 and give that a try. Also, Try running your gas flow at about 10-15, 22 sounds a bit high.
Try practice welding on some scrap with one hand on the speed and adjust it as your welding. This will help you find the high and low speed per wire size and will make it easier to pinpoint the happy spot.

Another thing about the beveled edge, I like to make sure that the bevel is about 1/8-3/16 back into the material and 45 degrees almost through the full thickness of the material. I hope that makes sense.

masternate
12-13-2013, 08:26 PM
I love my hobart 187! Have only ran about 40-50lbs of wire through it, but i do like it! I use 30 wire in it and let me tell ya that it feels like a toy compared to the 45 wire we use at work! Love the build I'll be keepin an eye on it!

masternate
12-13-2013, 08:29 PM
Oh and if you are worried about spatter......we just use masonry chisels at work and scrape most welds. Works fairly good....but kinda labor extensive.

rgvkid
12-13-2013, 09:49 PM
Wow, 45 wire! You must weld some heavy stuff!

Once you get the welding settings down, and some anti spatter, clean up is just a good wipe.

masternate
12-14-2013, 06:17 AM
Tons of heavy stuff, but we also weld a lot of 14gauge too! Production shop and 45 throws the welds down quick!

BajaInspired
12-21-2013, 09:30 PM
I hope that my garage looks just like yours by the time I start my build. Looks like you do some quality work. I also have an electric 12V HF wrench in my ceiling (1,500 lbs). I usually use it for deer skinning but I got to use it to build my engine stand.
Also, I had never heard of the cooking spray. I will have to try it out soon.

2kmoss
12-24-2013, 03:25 PM
I was wanting to test fit the front suspension before fully welding the front end and all the arm mounts so I turned up all the arm bushings and put it together. I just had to throw the front wheels on as well. Man this thing looks so cool!

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/A-Arm-Bushing-3_zps4fbc4de4.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/A-Arm-Bushing-3_zps4fbc4de4.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Front-Susp-Test-1_zpsf510d3b3.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Front-Susp-Test-1_zpsf510d3b3.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Front-Susp-Test-2_zpsc78c3790.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Front-Susp-Test-2_zpsc78c3790.jpg.html)

I had also test fit all the steering components prior to welding in the steering mounts. Everything lined up perfect.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Steering-Test-Fit-1_zps33b57cc6.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Steering-Test-Fit-1_zps33b57cc6.jpg.html)

2kmoss
12-24-2013, 03:29 PM
I spent Sunday making the nerf bars.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Nerf-Bars-1_zps8c24e85f.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Nerf-Bars-1_zps8c24e85f.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Nerf-Bars-2_zps9a45377e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Nerf-Bars-2_zps9a45377e.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Nerf-Bars-4_zpsa1811b93.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Nerf-Bars-4_zpsa1811b93.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Nerf-Bars-5_zps61b62d11.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Nerf-Bars-5_zps61b62d11.jpg.html)

2kmoss
12-24-2013, 03:37 PM
Well I've pretty much got the frame completed and was debating on the timing for paint/powder coat.

Part of me thinks I should throw on a cheap rattle can temporary paint job now. Doing this I can finish the buggy completely and touch up the paint as I go along with the build. This way I can finish 100% and take the buggy out and beat on it for a month or so without fear of it rusting to badly. Then when I'm satisfied with everything tear it down and get it sandblasted and powder coated.

The other thought is to keep going with the build without any paint and finish it to the point where all that's needed is wiring and brakes. Tear it down at this point without any test drives and get it sandblasted and powder coated; and then finish everything up.

If I go with the temporary paint I will have to do a lot of the work twice. I guess it all boils down to how comfortable I am with finishing this thing 100% without any test drives.

Would love to hear your opinions on this.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!!!
Kevin

Railguy
12-24-2013, 03:56 PM
Well I've pretty much got the frame completed and was debating on the timing for paint/powder coat.

Part of me thinks I should throw on a cheap rattle can temporary paint job now. Doing this I can finish the buggy completely and touch up the paint as I go along with the build. This way I can finish 100% and take the buggy out and beat on it for a month or so without fear of it rusting to badly. Then when I'm satisfied with everything tear it down and get it sandblasted and powder coated.

The other thought is to keep going with the build without any paint and finish it to the point where all that's needed is wiring and brakes. Tear it down at this point without any test drives and get it sandblasted and powder coated; and then finish everything up.

If I go with the temporary paint I will have to do a lot of the work twice. I guess it all boils down to how comfortable I am with finishing this thing 100% without any test drives.

Would love to hear your opinions on this.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!!!
Kevin


test it first. no reason to ruin an expensive powdercoat job if you need to change something, even if its minor. Throw some rattle can paint on it, and drive it around for a bit. then tear it down and get it all redone.

K-fab
12-24-2013, 04:08 PM
Test and run it! You will more than likely end up changing something.

The bonus of pulling it apart and then putting it back together is you can modify things like wire harness routing, incorrect bolt length, etc.

Rattle, run, powder.

Duane
12-24-2013, 06:32 PM
Yep, Rattle , run , powder.

Bullnerd
12-24-2013, 07:11 PM
Normally I would agree with whats everyone else said BUT, we kinda know its going to work dont we? I mean Rick designed it, if you made everything right it should BE right...right?

Awesome job BTW!

Also I've asked about this in the past, but can the buggy be set to have a ride height like the way you have it? I like the way that looks, and should handle better than the full droop mode a lot of these style buggies seem to be set at.

RickS.
12-24-2013, 07:41 PM
I agree with your plan of getting it close and going right to powder.
I would get the motor in place and exhaust built too.
Fuel tank fit and shift linkage. Then tear it down.
I have done all of mine this way. Even my very first build.
You seem to be very meticulous. I think you will know when it's time.

RickS.
12-24-2013, 07:52 PM
can the buggy be set to have a ride height like the way you have it? I like the way that looks, and should handle better than the full droop mode a lot of these style buggies seem to be set at.

It could possibly be set with limit straps.
But IMO buggies with air shocks (without springs)
Need to be set with higher pressure and ride height.
Otherwise you get some serious body roll.
This car does handle well even at the higher height.
I also like more camber change than most.
AR51 is designed for zero at full droop and it climbs to -7 af full bump.
This is front and rear and it does corner well.

Bullnerd
12-24-2013, 08:17 PM
"You seem to be very meticulous. I think you will know when it's time."-This is what I was trying to say!

Sounds good Rick, didnt think of the low shock pressure.

mmobley
12-25-2013, 07:30 AM
I gambled and went to powder coat and everything worked out perfect. If you rattle can then go to powder you will have to have the frame blasted to get rid of the paint. You can't powder coat over rattle can paint.

CARLRIDDLE
12-26-2013, 06:49 AM
I would rattle can it first. Do you have tabs where you need. Flag whip mount front and rear? Mirrors? Lights? Or leave it raw, spray with wd40 or wax it.

2kmoss
12-26-2013, 07:23 PM
Thanks for all the input! I guess I'll keep going for a bit, think about it and see what feels like the right direction.

Thanks,
Kevin

2kmoss
12-29-2013, 03:17 PM
Got a bit more done the last few days. I made and installed all of the skid plates, welded up the pedals and installed pedal boxes and welded in all mounting tabs.

I used 1/8" aluminum for the skids, if I had it to do over I think I would go with 3/16. I'm mainly worried about the cockpit skid, think it might bend over time in front of the seat since I will be stepping on the same spot over and over getting in and out. IDK maybe not.

I used rivnuts to install the skids, these things are slick. It was the first time ive ever used them.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Skid-Plates-1_zpsf606f2ce.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Skid-Plates-1_zpsf606f2ce.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Skid-Plates-2_zps3b3ea25f.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Skid-Plates-2_zps3b3ea25f.jpg.html)

I used stainless button head screws to mount the skid plates.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Skid-Plates-3_zps9cafc8ed.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Skid-Plates-3_zps9cafc8ed.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Pedals-Welded_zps899fb54e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Pedals-Welded_zps899fb54e.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Pedals-Installed_zps4c019836.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Pedals-Installed_zps4c019836.jpg.html)

mmobley
01-13-2014, 01:08 PM
Looks like you are doing a very nice job on your build. The welds around your bushings on your pedals look great. Are those stainless button heads black??

2kmoss
01-13-2014, 03:49 PM
Looks like you are doing a very nice job on your build. The welds around your bushings on your pedals look great. Are those stainless button heads black??

Thanks Mitch. I figure I'll be a decent mig welder about the time I lay my last bead on this build:-) no the button heads are just plain 318 stainless. The pic makes them look black though.

sandracer1
01-13-2014, 07:57 PM
I hope this is the only time you find it on its lid.

Trouble675
01-14-2014, 07:20 AM
I hope this is the only time you find it on its lid.

X2!

2kmoss
01-14-2014, 08:05 AM
I certainly want to avoid any of that:D

2kmoss
01-14-2014, 08:15 AM
My shocks came in last week and I got the rear mounts installed. This was the first time I had assembled the rear suspension. It cylcles very smoothly and I really like the rear link arms, they seem like they add rigidity and strength.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/RearShocks_zpsacd2fb1b.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/RearShocks_zpsacd2fb1b.jpg.html)

Well this thing is basiclly a roller now, although I have never assembled the front suspension, steering and rear suspension all at once I have assembled them all at different times and everything looks great so far. I am now concentrating on getting the body panels and bonnet/dash completed prior to putting the motor in. Once that motor is in there will be no more easily rolling and flipping the chassis around. I may even try to get the radiator mounts welded in prior to mounting the motor.

My biggest challenge left is the gas tank. Ive got alot to figure out. Stainless or aluminum? I think I'm gonna buy a GSXR fuel pump assembly to install in the tank. Descisions, descisions...

mmobley
01-14-2014, 09:37 AM
Do you have a fuel pump? I found one for my 750 on ebay for $50.00.

MrBracket
01-14-2014, 10:01 AM
Really looking awesome!!

Still can't get over how clean your shop is....

Just wanted to add my 2cents on the powder coat issue.. Powder coating will stick much better to a frame that has been sandblasted rather than a frame that's simply been acid washed... more surface area for it to latch onto. On that note, don't fret spray painting it first if you want.

2kmoss
01-14-2014, 10:27 AM
I've still got to get the fuel pump.

And I do think I am going to rattle can this thing before putting the motor in. This way I can beat on it awhile without it rusting too badly. Plus it will look a bit better while finishing the build and testing. I'll then have it blasted and powder coated.

daaboots
01-14-2014, 12:28 PM
Really nice progress. Can't wait to see it on all 4 wheels!

2kmoss
01-14-2014, 01:18 PM
Really nice progress. Can't wait to see it on all 4 wheels!

Thanks.

I cant either. I'm amazed that I havent taken the hour or 2 it would take to put it all together so I can see it on all 4 wheels. Unlike me and I'm not sure why but I'm just in the build mode and dont want to waste the time doing that just so I can see it. I wanna drive it more than look at it i guess:)

2kmoss
01-15-2014, 06:55 AM
I spent the last week or so making templates using construction paper for all the body panels and the bonnet. The plans called for a one piece body panel on each side. After playing with the templates I wasnt really happy with the way these panels looked and fit up so I decided to change it up a bit and make individual panels for each opening in the frame. It was alot of work and time consuming to fit each panel and make about 50 mounting tabs but I am pretty happy with the way it turned out.
I also decided to make the dash and bonnet in one piece. Ive still got to get mouting tabs and some trim pieces made for the bonnet and then take it all apart and finish welding all the mounting tabs.
All panels and the bonnet are made with 1/16 aluminum sheet and mounted with #10 SS button head screws. I'm also gonna use o-rings as washers between the panels and mounting tabs.


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Body-Panels-1_zps13c91ec9.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Body-Panels-1_zps13c91ec9.jpg.html)


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Body-Panels-2_zps118edebb.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Body-Panels-2_zps118edebb.jpg.html)


http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Body-Panels-3_zps877844d7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Body-Panels-3_zps877844d7.jpg.html)

Trouble675
01-15-2014, 07:28 AM
You sir, are a wizard. [smilie=bow.gif]

RickS.
01-15-2014, 07:32 AM
Looks great!
I like seeing the little changes that everyone have done.
At some point I want to draw up a similar bonnet.
The Edge bonnet was only used because my first design was for a customer that wanted me to use it.
I built him this front end to replace his Piranaha's front.
The rest of the AR51 came later.

mmobley
01-15-2014, 08:10 AM
I like the look of the recessed panels. Did you draw up the cut out for your gauge cluster?

2kmoss
01-15-2014, 08:12 AM
Thanks for the compliments!

2kmoss
01-15-2014, 08:14 AM
I like the look of the recessed panels. Did you draw up the cut out for your gauge cluster?

No. I just layed the gauge housing on the panel and traced around it with a scribe and then jig sawed it out.

Duane
01-15-2014, 09:19 AM
Recessed panels are much nicer looking. Worth the time it takes if you ask me. I used off the shelf tabs on mine. Used a piece of flat bar with a magnet ground down to get the offset I needed and was able to get the large number of tabs on in short order. When I cut my triangle shaped panels I will set a piece of round stock with a tit in the center of the face in each corner to measure point to point. Add the radius of those to the distance then I have all I need to cut them with no pattern. For myself I know a guy with a CNC router who can cut them out quick. I will use a sign product called Dibond. Alupanel is another brand of the same type of plastic layered inside thin aluminum faces. Not too expensive and very easy to work.

2kmoss
01-15-2014, 11:46 AM
Recessed panels are much nicer looking. Worth the time it takes if you ask me. I used off the shelf tabs on mine. Used a piece of flat bar with a magnet ground down to get the offset I needed and was able to get the large number of tabs on in short order. When I cut my triangle shaped panels I will set a piece of round stock with a tit in the center of the face in each corner to measure point to point. Add the radius of those to the distance then I have all I need to cut them with no pattern. For myself I know a guy with a CNC router who can cut them out quick. I will use a sign product called Dibond. Alupanel is another brand of the same type of plastic layered inside thin aluminum faces. Not too expensive and very easy to work.

I made all of my tabs from 1/8x3/4 bar stock. I cut them .9 long in the band saw and then drill a 7/32 hole .4 from one edge. This gives me a tab with .4 from one edge and .5 from the other edge; this gives me a bit of leeway and adjustablility using one tab. After all the tabs are aligned and positioned how i want them using the mark one eyeball alignment tool:) I then belt sanded a radius on the exposed edges to avoid any sharp corners. I then screwed all the tabs to the pre-drilled panels and aligned the assembled units in the openings holding them in place with magnets and what not. I then go around tack welding the tabs in place and adjust as required.

2kmoss
01-24-2014, 07:26 AM
Got a few things done this last week. I got the radiator mounts and bushings made and installed.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Radiator-Mount-1_zpscfbd15c5.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Radiator-Mount-1_zpscfbd15c5.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Radiator-Mount-2_zps8db38bda.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Radiator-Mount-2_zps8db38bda.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Radiator-Mount-3_zpsb4103251.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Radiator-Mount-3_zpsb4103251.jpg.html)

Next I made a pair of mounts for a set of GSXR mirrors. In order to make these I first drilled and tapped 1/4 holes in a 1/2 thick piece of steel. I then stood the mounts up on end and used a hole saw to contour the surface that mounts to the roll bars. Next I put layout fluid on each mount face and traced the shape of the mount with a scribe; belt sanded to the line to finish them up. Man I love that belt sander!!

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mirror-Mount-1_zps069d96a7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mirror-Mount-1_zps069d96a7.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mirror-Mount-2_zpse1879118.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mirror-Mount-2_zpse1879118.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mirror-Mount-3_zps383f5144.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mirror-Mount-3_zps383f5144.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mirror-Mount-4_zps9f86be9c.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mirror-Mount-4_zps9f86be9c.jpg.html)

I also got the mounts made and installed for the front headlights and horn. I have sanded most of the frame to smooth everything out. This weekend I plan to clean the frame and then rattle can some paint on it. Motor mounting after that.

I only have a few things left to weld to the frame; gas tank mounts, gear shift mounts, flag mounts for the rear and tail light mounts. I will add these later and just grind off the paint and touchup as needed. I will have the frame sand blasted and power coated after Ive driven and and beat on it a few times. I see light at the end of the tunnel:-)

K-fab
01-24-2014, 07:39 AM
I really like those mirror mounts. Very clean execution, very nice.

Nice welds too.

What mirrors are they?

2kmoss
01-24-2014, 07:57 AM
I really like those mirror mounts. Very clean execution, very nice.

Nice welds too.

What mirrors are they?

Thanks!

I believe they are for 2002-2003 GSXR.

Bullnerd
01-24-2014, 08:12 AM
You should have plug welded those mirror mounts also! No way they are holding!

2kmoss
01-24-2014, 08:22 AM
You should have plug welded those mirror mounts also! No way they are holding!

Haha! Yeah I think the welds may be just a bit overkill! But I may need to put some bigger mirrors on at some point:-)

And man I'm just now starting to get some decent looking beads and want to put them somewhere!! :D

Wheels
01-24-2014, 11:13 AM
that mirror setup is pretty solid... i like it. i've been contemplating mirrors for mine. and the beads looks pretty damn good!

2kmoss
01-25-2014, 02:08 PM
Got it painted.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mobile%20Uploads/20140125_145941_zpse3d307a2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140125_145941_zpse3d307a2.jpg.html)

Bullnerd
01-25-2014, 02:22 PM
Very nice! Your haulin' on this thing!

wjfawb0
01-25-2014, 06:54 PM
That brings back memories. Looks great. :)

Wheels
01-25-2014, 08:01 PM
yeah, i like the orange. dukes of hazard theme like dirtychikin? :D

2kmoss
01-25-2014, 09:33 PM
Yeah I thought I would try orange for now to see how I like it. I may switch colors when it comes time for powder coat but well see. I do kinda like it though. It should look pretty good with all the black swing arms, etc... I may have to get some 01 vinyl letters for the body panels:-)

Wheels
01-25-2014, 09:58 PM
awesome.... can't go wrong with the 01. i look forward to seeing the finished product.

bamabuggy
01-26-2014, 07:30 AM
Looks good love the orange allways wanted one this color great work on the buggy

Benihana
01-26-2014, 08:49 AM
The orange looks killer:cool: So does everything else...nice welds too.

Michael67
01-26-2014, 10:53 AM
Hey 2K great looking build :) , just got done reading your post . I would like to have one of these too, looks like a fun build.

rollo
01-26-2014, 03:25 PM
looks good thats about the color mine is. mines the orange one on ricks site

2kmoss
01-27-2014, 11:33 AM
Thanks for the compliments!

After making a total mess in my garage while painting the frame I decided to set up a temporary spray booth for the rest of the painting. I finished up all the a-arms and suspension arms. I've still got to get the nerf bars and a few other items painted before I take this down. Although it is supposed to be real cold here for the next few days so I may have to wait a bit to finish; my furnace in the garage struggles to keep the temp up to 70 when its 0-10 outside.

I may need the time to finish cleaning all the orange dust covering EVERYTHING. Thank god it mostly dries before it covers everything.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Paint-Booth-1_zps933dfb2e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Paint-Booth-1_zps933dfb2e.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Paint-Booth-2_zps9969a089.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Paint-Booth-2_zps9969a089.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Paint-Booth-3_zpsab89bb3b.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Paint-Booth-3_zpsab89bb3b.jpg.html)

Up north
01-27-2014, 11:40 AM
How about a little heater inside your paint booth? Nudge,nudge

2kmoss
01-27-2014, 11:51 AM
How about a little heater inside your paint booth? Nudge,nudge

I thought about that but I would want to leave it on overnight for the paint to cure and I dont have any space heaters that I trust to leave on all night and day while unattended. Its no big deal to wait a few days for the temp to get back up a bit. My furnace in the garage is a 220v electric and does a good job for the most part but does struggle a bit to keep it warm when the mercury drops real low.

And man my electic bill has been sky high this winter due to the super cold weather and me keeping the garage at 65-70 when I'm working out there; and I have been out there constantly this year:)

Up north
01-27-2014, 12:06 PM
I thought about that but I would want to leave it on overnight for the paint to cure and I dont have any space heaters that I trust to leave on all night and day while unattended. Its no big deal to wait a few days for the temp to get back up a bit. My furnace in the garage is a 220v electric and does a good job for the most part but does struggle a bit to keep it warm when the mercury drops real low.

And man my electic bill has been sky high this winter due to the super cold weather and me keeping the garage at 65-70 when I'm working out there; and I have been out there constantly this year:)

I was just razzin you I know how it goes, I too have been keeping my garage warm at fifty five all winter. My wife is getting the electric bill and wondering why it's so much. I just shrug my shoulders and say hmmm rates must have gone up. I'm using an oil filled radiant, radiator looking heater from Walmart and it seems to use about fourth a month in electricity to maintain 55 but I'm very well insulated. Once the slab is warm it doesn't take much.

Your buggy is looking excellent 2K

Up north
01-27-2014, 12:07 PM
Sorry, fourty a month not a forth... Damn autocorrect

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 01:00 PM
After a week of painting I'm seeing stars and feeling a bit dumber:) Boy am I sick of paint fumes. LOL

Got the steering installed along with a couple of the side panels. Also went ahead and threw the Rigid D2's on to see how they looked.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Assy-Steering_zpsd25df9bd.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Assy-Steering_zpsd25df9bd.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Assy-Footwell_zps54bd0b91.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Assy-Footwell_zps54bd0b91.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Assy-Lights_zps6591b52e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Assy-Lights_zps6591b52e.jpg.html)


Installed the engine and got all of the motor mounts welded up. I do have any issue with the right side lower rear mount; this mount had to be spaced so far out to center the sprockets up that it interferes with the brake rotor. I'm going to have to weld an offset into this mount to fix this problem; it not a big deal but will take a few hours.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Assy-Mtr-Mnt-1_zpsdbcbc28b.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Assy-Mtr-Mnt-1_zpsdbcbc28b.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Assy-Mtr-Mnt-3_zps256b57b2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Assy-Mtr-Mnt-3_zps256b57b2.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Assy-Mtr-Mnt-4_zps50335ccc.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Assy-Mtr-Mnt-4_zps50335ccc.jpg.html)

Bullnerd
02-04-2014, 01:08 PM
I'm afraid your assembling out of order!

It goes seat, steering wheel, sit in buggy make engine noises, then lights!

I like how everyone installs the lights way before the rest of the buggy is done. Something about those lights!

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 01:10 PM
Here is a picture of the motor mount that will require some modification. I have the chain adjuster set as far back as possible; it clears the mounts by a hair in this position allowing no adjustment. I will need to cut the mount plate off a bit shorter and add a piece of tubing about 3/4" long for the offset and the weld a new mounting tab to the tubing. This will allow me to shorten the aluminum spacers by 3/4" and add more clearance for the rotor.

Anyone have any other simpler fixes?

If Mitch reads this maybe he'll chime in as he used the same mounts with the same motor.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mtr-Mnt-Closeup-1_zpscd3227e5.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mtr-Mnt-Closeup-1_zpscd3227e5.jpg.html)

CARLRIDDLE
02-04-2014, 01:19 PM
Offsetting that in should work just fine. Just be sure there is an angled brace on the offset. Assume the sprockets are lined up? And your gonna need a smaller front sprocket. Lookes good.

Up north
02-04-2014, 01:22 PM
Do I see a tow hook on the front?

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 01:32 PM
I'm afraid your assembling out of order!

It goes seat, steering wheel, sit in buggy make engine noises, then lights!

I like how everyone installs the lights way before the rest of the buggy is done. Something about those lights!

Haha:D yup I screwed up on the order. And yeah ya gotta put the lights on first!

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 01:33 PM
Offsetting that in should work just fine. Just be sure there is an angled brace on the offset. Assume the sprockets are lined up? And your gonna need a smaller front sprocket. Lookes good.

Yes the sprockets are lined up. And yes I have a 14 tooth front sprocket sitting on the shelf.

And thank you!

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 01:35 PM
Do I see a tow hook on the front?

Yes indeed and I have one for the rear as well. No doubt at some point this thing will need to be pulled forward, backward or sideways or over. I hope not over though:D

mmobley
02-04-2014, 01:49 PM
I will look at my buggy tonight to try and shed some light on this. I can't remember exactly what I did. Maybe a pic or two if my camera is still working. I love that orange.

mmobley
02-04-2014, 01:52 PM
Here is a picture of the motor mount that will require some modification. I have the chain adjuster set as far back as possible; it clears the mounts by a hair in this position allowing no adjustment. I will need to cut the mount plate off a bit shorter and add a piece of tubing about 3/4" long for the offset and the weld a new mounting tab to the tubing. This will allow me to shorten the aluminum spacers by 3/4" and add more clearance for the rotor.

Anyone have any other simpler fixes?

If Mitch reads this maybe he'll chime in as he used the same mounts with the same motor.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Mtr-Mnt-Closeup-1_zpscd3227e5.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Mtr-Mnt-Closeup-1_zpscd3227e5.jpg.html)
I will look at mine tonight but I assume you know to use flat heads to mount the motor mounts. Again, it looks great.

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 01:57 PM
I will look at mine tonight but I assume you know to use flat heads to mount the motor mounts. Again, it looks great.

Do you mean to gain some clearance? If so that would give me some extra clearance but not quite enough; the rotor would still interfere by about 1/16-1/8".

Thank You!

mmobley
02-04-2014, 02:06 PM
Do you mean to gain some clearance? If so that would give me some extra clearance but not quite enough; the rotor would still interfere by about 1/16-1/8".

Thank You!

I countersank as Rick does and used flat heads on those mounts. If I remember right my rotor was close. Who knows my axle width may be a little wider than it should be. I couldn't find a flat head long enough for the mount that goes through the motor so I bought a M10 x 180mm hex head and machined the backside of the head at the 82 degree included angle but left enough hex to put a wrench on it and it cleared the idler sprocket. Probably a better way of doing it??

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 02:20 PM
I countersank as Rick does and used flat heads on those mounts. If I remember right my rotor was close. Who knows my axle width may be a little wider than it should be. I couldn't find a flat head long enough for the mount that goes through the motor so I bought a M10 x 180mm hex head and machined the backside of the head at the 82 degree included angle but left enough hex to put a wrench on it and it cleared the idler sprocket. Probably a better way of doing it??

I didnt see any need for flat heads on the sprocket side since I have plenty of clearance for hex head screws; I would have used them on the rotor side if it would have been all I needed to do. But if I have to add an offset to the mount I'll just make it enough of an offset to clear hex heads or whatever. Although I guess the flat head would look cleaner.

For the actual bolts that mount into the motor I used 1/2-13 hex head bolts. The holes in the motor were like .43 diameter which is the perfect size hole for a 1/2-13 thread so I counter drilled them and tapped the (4) rear mounts to 1/2-13. This saved me from having to go and buy 5-6" long 3/8 bolts.

mmobley
02-04-2014, 02:24 PM
[QUOTE=2kmoss;277906]I didnt see any need for flat heads on the sprocket side since I have plenty of clearance for hex head screws; I would have used them on the rotor side if it would have been all I needed to do. But if I have to add an offset to the mount I'll just make it enough of an offset to clear hex heads or whatever. Although I guess the flat head would look cleaner.



You are right there is no need for flat heads on the sprocket side frame mount. That's a great idea tapping the motor, I never thought of that.

Bullnerd
02-04-2014, 02:26 PM
On the rotor or sprocket ,it may be more than just a clearance thing for Rick to suggest the flat heads? I think the constant tugging on those bolts tends to loosen anything but flat heads? Could be wrong, just throwing it out there.

I know my dirt bikes always used flatheads.

RickS.
02-04-2014, 02:43 PM
This is how I always do the lower rears.
Right side always requires an offset.
I connect the two mounts with a torque tube.
Making them one removable mount bracket.
http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo76/Krasch_Design/DSC07236.jpg
http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo76/Krasch_Design/1326455680.jpg

Bullnerd
02-04-2014, 03:13 PM
WOW! Nevermind! I was way off! I thought you guys were talking about...ahh nevermind.

2kmoss
02-04-2014, 05:36 PM
This is how I always do the lower rears.
Right side always requires an offset.
I connect the two mounts with a torque tube.
Making them one removable mount bracket.
http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo76/Krasch_Design/DSC07236.jpg
http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo76/Krasch_Design/1326455680.jpg

That looks just about like what I was thinking except without the tube going across to the other mount. I like it! Looks awesome. I'll try to do the same although I have a idle sprocket mount on the other side that may get in the way. I'll have to do some closer measuring.

Thanks Rick!

On another note you bout ready with those f150 CVS? I'm getting close to needing to get those on order. Sometime in the next couple weeks.

Trouble675
02-04-2014, 08:18 PM
I highly recommend going with Ricks mounts. The right side of the cross tube is where the idler goes. And its SOLID.

RickS.
02-04-2014, 08:30 PM
Yes I place that torque tube dead center on the idler.
You can see it in the first pic.
I'll need to call on the F150 cvs. The ones I'll be carrying are being manufactured in China now.
They are probably 8 weeks out. These will be new.
I have a set of reman OEM if you need them sooner. These are pre greased though.

flyerrider
02-04-2014, 11:10 PM
So you're having F-150 CV's made? I'm assuming this is because the Empi ones aren't available anymore? I can't seem to find them anywhere. The only thing I can find is the whole axle.

RickS.
02-05-2014, 04:22 AM
So you're having F-150 CV's made? I'm assuming this is because the Empi ones aren't available anymore? I can't seem to find them anywhere. The only thing I can find is the whole axle.

Yes I'm having these made.
We sent an OEM to China for reverse engineering in late December.
Chinese New Year pretty much shuts everything down for January.
We will probably have them in early April.
The blank Intrepid hubs will be sooner since the same company is already producing those.
They will pull the hubs before the holes are machined.
The company I'm working with already has many other driveline parts produced on China.
The F150 will be new for them. They started out rebuilding OEM axle parts and have since been expanding to include the new China knock offs. The F150 is a pain to rebuild.
They will still rebuild them, but also offer these new Chinese copy's.

BajaInspired
02-09-2014, 08:33 AM
I just learned how to subscribe to these threads. Crazy how much progress I have missed on here. Everything looks great.

Ricks,
Maybe you could make a deal with interparts for the CVs instead of going the China route.

RickS.
02-09-2014, 01:22 PM
If you are talking about the company that Empi sold off the axle too I have already tried.
They were not willing to seperate. They probably should have because now they will have competition on their knock offs. The company I'm dealing with was glad to do this and they were well aware of Empi and that deal.

RickS.
02-09-2014, 01:33 PM
I don't think I could find a deal worth while on any OEM cv.
The ones were having made will be comparable in quality.
You can get some real junk in China, but higher quality is available for just a bit more per piece.
Even paying a little extra is worth it because the mark up is very good.
The company I'm working woth is willing to pay for the quality. They will put their reputation on the line as in backing up the products they sell.

2kmoss
02-17-2014, 07:37 AM
Got a few things done this past week. I completed most of the items needed for the cooling system and got some parts ready for zinc platting.

I made a paper template for the radiator shroud and test fit it then traced the outline onto some .06 aluminum sheet. Sawed it out with the jig saw and took it to work and bent it up and it turned out pretty nice. I installed the riv nuts into the sides of the radiator and also tapped one of the mounting bosses for the thermostat bleed line.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Rad-Shroud-1_zps4f8f7d63.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Rad-Shroud-1_zps4f8f7d63.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Rad-Shroud-2_zpsff48fac7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Rad-Shroud-2_zpsff48fac7.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Rad-Shroud-3_zps9cf60f19.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Rad-Shroud-3_zps9cf60f19.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Rad-Shroud-4_zpsf67e08b3.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Rad-Shroud-4_zpsf67e08b3.jpg.html)

Turned up the radiator hose adapters. One was a straight coupler and the other I made out of square stock in order to have enough room to add a 1/4 NPT fitting to tie in the oil cooler line. I had to put the rectangle stock in a 4 jaw chuck to offset it to turn the first side, I then put it back in the 3 jaw and turned the opposit side. Then set it up in the mill on an angle to mill a flat and drill and tap for the pipe fitting.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Rad-Hose-Couplers-1_zps70408f5d.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Rad-Hose-Couplers-1_zps70408f5d.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Rad-Hose-Couplers-2_zpsbdba699d.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Rad-Hose-Couplers-2_zpsbdba699d.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Rad-Hose-Couplers-3_zps3e53a31f.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Rad-Hose-Couplers-3_zps3e53a31f.jpg.html)

I prepped all of the parts I needed to get zinc plated. I had to set the sprocket up on the rotary table in the mill to mill the tapers on the teeth, my lathe isnt quite big enough to swing 12". I sandblasted all of the parts and dropped them off at the platers last week, I should get them back this week sometime.
It was tough to find a plater that would do a small job; I looked in to getting set up to do this at home but it seems I would need a pretty hefty power supply to plate the larger items. Might look into this in more detail in the future. I was quoted $125 to plate the parts pictured; not sure if thats a good deal or not.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Sprocket-Bevel_zps7d186e25.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Sprocket-Bevel_zps7d186e25.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Zinc-Plate-Prep_zps96aa1a5a.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Zinc-Plate-Prep_zps96aa1a5a.jpg.html)

K-fab
02-17-2014, 07:49 AM
I installed the riv nuts into the sides of the radiatorAs installed into the tanks? Did you put them in the actual rad body or is there a non-liquid filled side that you put these in?

2kmoss
02-17-2014, 07:53 AM
As installed into the tanks? Did you put them in the actual rad body or is there a non-liquid filled side that you put these in?

I drilled holes in the side panels of the radiator. I didnt take any photos but I had to be REAL careful to not let the drill go too deep and puncture one of the cooling fins. That would be bad and I think it would ruin the radiator as it would be tough to repair.

Bullnerd
02-17-2014, 07:55 AM
"non-liquid filled side"- this...tanks are on the top and bottom.

K-fab
02-17-2014, 07:59 AM
Okay. Whew. I just saw bad things happening if you'd put those in the wrong spot.

K-fab
02-17-2014, 08:00 AM
"non-liquid filled side"- this...tanks are on the top and bottom.Not always...

mmobley
02-17-2014, 09:03 AM
2kmoss, you do nice work that's for sure. Are you a tooling engineer? What degree do you have...just curious.

2kmoss
02-17-2014, 09:08 AM
2kmoss, you do nice work that's for sure. Are you a tooling engineer? What degree do you have...just curious.

Thanks Mitch!
Yes, Ive been a tooling engineer for 25 years. I have an associates degree. I graduated on a friday and started working my current job the following Monday, its the only real job I've ever had.

I work in the metal stamping industry; we design and build stamping dies and assembly equipment for many industries.

mmobley
02-17-2014, 10:34 AM
Thanks Mitch!
Yes, Ive been a tooling engineer for 25 years. I have an associates degree. I graduated on a friday and started working my current job the following Monday, its the only real job I've ever had.

I work in the metal stamping industry; we design and build stamping dies and assembly equipment for many industries.

Awesome 2kmoss, my son received a full tuition scholarship in a 2 year tool and die program and he is learning so much cool stuff that I am envious. The company that awarded him the scholarship, Accumold of Ankeny Iowa, makes very small plastic injection molded parts. He measures parts with a microscope. I just love machining and making cool stuff. Keep up the good work!

2kmoss
02-17-2014, 11:13 AM
Awesome 2kmoss, my son received a full tuition scholarship in a 2 year tool and die program and he is learning so much cool stuff that I am envious. The company that awarded him the scholarship, Accumold of Ankeny Iowa, makes very small plastic injection molded parts. He measures parts with a microscope. I just love machining and making cool stuff. Keep up the good work!

Good for him! I think its a great field to get into. I see so many people spending 10's of thousands of dollars for degrees that end up being next to worthless. Not many kids these days wanna get their hands dirty. We have a hard time getting good toolmakers and machinists; and they are payed WELL but there just arent that many good ones out there anymore. I remember when I first got my lowly associates degree, I had friends in big schools getting fancy degrees and I was making way more money than most of them when they finally got jobs. Plus I had a 2-3 year jump on them since I started working after 2 years of school and some of them took 5-6 years before they graduated and found a job. I'm not rich by any means but I do make a good living in the tool and die trade.

mmobley
02-17-2014, 11:45 AM
Good for him! I think its a great field to get into. I see so many people spending 10's of thousands of dollars for degrees that end up being next to worthless. Not many kids these days wanna get their hands dirty. We have a hard time getting good toolmakers and machinists; and they are payed WELL but there just arent that many good ones out there anymore. I remember when I first got my lowly associates degree, I had friends in big schools getting fancy degrees and I was making way more money than most of them when they finally got jobs. Plus I had a 2-3 year jump on them since I started working after 2 years of school and some of them took 5-6 years before they graduated and found a job. I'm not rich by any means but I do make a good living in the tool and die trade.

Awesome! I can't wait for Trent to read this!

2kmoss
02-24-2014, 07:46 AM
I got all of the parts back from the Zinc plater. I had a pleasant surprise when they only charged me $50 to plate all of the parts.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Zinc-Plating-Complete-2_zps70890b00.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Zinc-Plating-Complete-2_zps70890b00.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Zinc-Plating-Complete-1_zps9faa17f2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Zinc-Plating-Complete-1_zps9faa17f2.jpg.html)

2kmoss
02-24-2014, 07:47 AM
Got the exhaust completed as well. Rather than welding a steel bracket to the frame I made a mounting bracket from aluminum and mounted it to the frame with 1/4 rivnuts and stainless button head cap screws.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Exhaust-2_zps3ee2e850.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Exhaust-2_zps3ee2e850.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Exhaust-1_zps0cf67d89.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Exhaust-1_zps0cf67d89.jpg.html)

I took the drawing below to a couple of local exhaust shops to try and get a piece bent up. They certainly are not used to looking at a drawing. The guys at both shops said they couldnt make this piece because they had no way to put the second bend in on an angle. I told them "yes you can and I even brought an angle finder for you to use". The first guy refused. I was in awe that he was not even willing to listen and try. I had much better luck at the second shop. He let me help bend it up and he's even gonna buy an digital angle finder now:-)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Exhaust-3_zpsdc92d7e1.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Exhaust-3_zpsdc92d7e1.jpg.html)

2kmoss
02-24-2014, 07:48 AM
Also took a few minutes and made a center cap for the steering wheel per Rick's design.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Steering-Wheel-Bling_zps48f7485e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Steering-Wheel-Bling_zps48f7485e.jpg.html)

2kmoss
02-24-2014, 07:49 AM
After thinking about the shift linkage I decided to go with a push-pull cable on the shifter. I made a paper template for a aluminum bracket that will mount using the chain guard mounting bolts to hold it in place. I started machining it last night and should finish it up tonight.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Linkage-1_zps2748026e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Linkage-1_zps2748026e.jpg.html)

Rat4020
02-24-2014, 08:05 AM
Looks top notch I like the Zinc coating.. Oh and that SuperTrap muffler is bad assed

Bullnerd
02-24-2014, 08:33 AM
Sweet!

Good thinking on the muffler shop.

Duane
02-24-2014, 09:17 AM
The plating looks nice. For flat plate aluminum pieces I use the paper template and glue it on. Then cut with the band saw and file / sand edges. I got no mill. Getting pretty fast at it.

2kmoss
02-24-2014, 09:23 AM
The plating looks nice. For flat plate aluminum pieces I use the paper template and glue it on. Then cut with the band saw and file / sand edges. I got no mill. Getting pretty fast at it.

I do the same on alot of pieces that have any contours that cannot be easily done in the mill. That piece I showed for the shifter bracket will have lots of hand work.

mmobley
02-24-2014, 10:15 AM
Wow $50.00 to plate all of that seems pretty cheap. You are making good progress.

Deranged
02-24-2014, 04:16 PM
Haha! It almost appears that way:-) I've got an electric hoist mounted in the attic, the cable comes through a small hole in the ceiling. Its a harbor freight hoist with a 450 lb capacity.

Just doing come catching up, and this sir, is BRILLIANT!!

Justin

2kmoss
03-10-2014, 09:56 AM
I got the shifter push-pull cable bracket made. I started with a paper template then machined the piece from a chunk of aluminum. I even tapped the hole for the 5/8-18 threads on the cable housing.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Link-1_zps6433a6f9.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Link-1_zps6433a6f9.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Link-2_zpsdd152da0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Link-2_zpsdd152da0.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Link-4_zps38df61c7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Link-4_zps38df61c7.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Link-3_zps6b7fe9e6.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Link-3_zps6b7fe9e6.jpg.html)

2kmoss
03-10-2014, 09:58 AM
I got the shifter handle made and mounted as well. Handle made from aluminum and mounted to a boss welded into the frame. I tapped the boss 5/16-18 prior to welding and used a 3/8 stainless shoulder bolt for a pivot. Made a couple of delrin washers to add a tad bit of friction and keep things from rocking side to side. I also got everthing measured for all of the cables. I will order those today.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Hand-1_zps926796d5.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Hand-1_zps926796d5.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Hand-4_zpsf6a262fe.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Hand-4_zpsf6a262fe.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Hand-3_zps7031665f.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Hand-3_zps7031665f.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Shift-Hand-2_zpsd9716c3d.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Shift-Hand-2_zpsd9716c3d.jpg.html)

2kmoss
03-10-2014, 09:58 AM
Made an aluminum bracket to hold the rear tail light.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Tail-Light-Bkt-1_zpsdec9ad0f.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Tail-Light-Bkt-1_zpsdec9ad0f.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Tail-Light-Bkt-4_zps681d5213.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Tail-Light-Bkt-4_zps681d5213.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Tail-Light-Bkt-3_zpsdc56c6c7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Tail-Light-Bkt-3_zpsdc56c6c7.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Tail-Light-Bkt-2_zps4b37a5e5.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Tail-Light-Bkt-2_zps4b37a5e5.jpg.html)

2kmoss
03-10-2014, 09:59 AM
Made a template from construction paper and got the fuel tank mocked up on the frame. This should be my last big job to do prior to finishing this thing up.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-1_zps15375ede.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-1_zps15375ede.jpg.html)

I need to get the fuel tank made and then make a housing for the electronics and then it should be all down hill from there:-) Man all these little details are dragging out and seem like they are taking forever!

2kmoss
03-10-2014, 10:10 AM
Here are a couple of drawings that I made for ordering my throttle and clutch cables. I didnt want any confusion trying to order these things verbally so I made these drawings. Feel free to use them and just change the numbers to suit.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Throttle-Pull-Cable_zps1491eef3.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Throttle-Pull-Cable_zps1491eef3.jpg.html)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Clutch-Pull-Cable_zps3e5fdd02.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Clutch-Pull-Cable_zps3e5fdd02.jpg.html)

biker
03-10-2014, 10:32 AM
Man,

You sure are making a good example of what you can do with machine tools. It's nice to have a lathe and Bridgeport machine. Keep the pictures coming.

Duane
03-10-2014, 03:28 PM
Fine work and wicked designs. Thanks for showing us the details.

RickS.
03-10-2014, 05:06 PM
These are the things that will really make this build stand out.
Great job!

2kmoss
03-24-2014, 11:24 AM
Made a couple of aluminum covers for the air box intakes. I think I may need to open the holes up a bit more as I may be restricting the intake air flow too much.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Air-Box-Covers-2_zpsc59d4819.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Air-Box-Covers-2_zpsc59d4819.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Air-Box-Covers-1_zpsa8004f20.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Air-Box-Covers-1_zpsa8004f20.jpg.html)

2kmoss
03-24-2014, 11:25 AM
Got all of my cables in from California Push Pull. I made a couple of clamps to hold the shift cable. I still need to arrange these to miss the rear link arms.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cable-Clamp-1_zps944dcbdb.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cable-Clamp-1_zps944dcbdb.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Cable-Clamp-2_zps9cdf401f.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Cable-Clamp-2_zps9cdf401f.jpg.html)

2kmoss
03-24-2014, 11:25 AM
Made a couple brackets to connect the master cylinders to the brake pedals.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Brake-Brackets-1_zps741ccace.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Brake-Brackets-1_zps741ccace.jpg.html)

2kmoss
03-24-2014, 11:26 AM
And I finally got everything completed for the fuel tank. All the machined components are 6061 aluminum and all the panels are 1/8" 5052 aluminum. Its being tig welded up today. I should get it back tomorrow.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-1_zpse031f48a.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-1_zpse031f48a.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-2_zps252bb708.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-2_zps252bb708.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-3_zps469c00a2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-3_zps469c00a2.jpg.html)

mmobley
03-24-2014, 02:09 PM
Made a couple brackets to connect the master cylinders to the brake pedals.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Brake-Brackets-1_zps741ccace.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Brake-Brackets-1_zps741ccace.jpg.html)

Did you not get those with your master cylinders? You do some awesome work 2k.

2kmoss
03-24-2014, 03:46 PM
Did you not get those with your master cylinders? You do some awesome work 2k.

Nope. They were like 10 bucks each extra so I said the heck with it and made em instead. Thanks!

sandracer1
03-24-2014, 04:59 PM
Who is doing your tig welding here in Jeff County? I need to have one made so I can get a few more gallons in the Revolt.
I know where to get the water jetting done and building with fiber board is a common practice for me as well.

Are you going to put a bladder in it?
That is something I would like to add or double wall it.

2kmoss
03-24-2014, 06:01 PM
Who is doing your tig welding here in Jeff County? I need to have one made so I can get a few more gallons in the Revolt.
I know where to get the water jetting done and building with fiber board is a common practice for me as well.

Are you going to put a bladder in it?
That is something I would like to add or double wall it.

No bladder required. The welding is done and it looks nice. Hes gonna pressure test it for leaks tomorrow before I get it.. I'll give ya a call and give you his contact info.

2kmoss
03-24-2014, 08:51 PM
I actually cut all the panels out on the band saw and then beveled them with the belt sander. A jig saw would work also. Everything fit up with a 1/32 or less gap.

Trouble675
03-24-2014, 10:00 PM
Where did you get your filler neck?

2kmoss
03-25-2014, 05:11 AM
Where did you get your filler neck?

Summit racing. Its a Jaz short 45 degree filler neck. Kinda pricey at $106 but a nicely made piece.

mmobley
03-25-2014, 06:18 AM
Summit racing. Its a Jaz short 45 degree filler neck. Kinda pricey at $106 but a nicely made piece.

I did a lot of searching and no such thing as a cheap filler neck.

2kmoss
03-25-2014, 06:43 AM
I did a lot of searching and no such thing as a cheap filler neck.

Acutally there was one other option that I found. You can buy really inexpensive bolt on filler necks here:
Fuel Tank Accessories (http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=62/home_id=-1/mode=cat/cat62.htm)

I was making my tank out of aluminum so I bucked up an bought the Jaz as its also aluminum. The filler necks in link above are zinc plated steel with a nice aluminum filler cap. They are about 1/3 the price of a Jaz.

Also the Jaz being at 45 degrees puts the fill spout right between the rear frame uprights. This should make filling the tank very easy and convenient.

Trouble675
03-25-2014, 07:50 AM
Summit racing. Its a Jaz short 45 degree filler neck. Kinda pricey at $106 but a nicely made piece.

Ok thanks!

Deranged
03-25-2014, 03:10 PM
"Tanks" for the link

Justin

2kmoss
03-25-2014, 07:56 PM
Got my fuel tank back from being welded. I'm very pleased with the way it turned out.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-5_zps98c690d0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-5_zps98c690d0.jpg.html)

After I spent a few minutes polishing it up. Debating whether to polish and clear coat it or paint it.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-6_zpsa29b56cb.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-6_zpsa29b56cb.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-8_zps0a9022d6.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-8_zps0a9022d6.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Fuel-Tank-7_zpsbbd9fb79.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Fuel-Tank-7_zpsbbd9fb79.jpg.html)

Up north
03-25-2014, 08:05 PM
Wow that looks nice. I'd go polished

2kmoss
03-25-2014, 08:14 PM
"Tanks" for the link

Justin

Haha. Welcome

Duane
03-26-2014, 01:53 AM
Your tank is very nice. I like the clear coat option.

mmobley
03-26-2014, 06:28 AM
Whats the fitting for on the top of your tank?

2kmoss
03-26-2014, 06:40 AM
Whats the fitting for on the top of your tank?

Tip Over Valve/Tank Vent

Trouble675
03-26-2014, 07:36 AM
Get some green bar and some jewellers rouge. A little elbow grease and that tank will look like it's chrome plated. Pull it out every couple years and re-polish. It'll stay looking good for a long time. If you clear coat it, it'll either turn yellow or peel over time.

N8ball
03-27-2014, 04:58 PM
Wow, cool build. The AR51 is a cool little car. The tank turned out great. In the decorative lighting industry, most of our welds have to be ground smooth for aesthetic reasons. I've learned a few well placed bends can reduce welding, and in our case grinding. Even cutting costs go down with fewer cuts. Maybe you could save a few minutes on the next one by leaving some of the tape on your model seams when you cut them out. Again, cool build. You got mad skills. I am looking forward to your riding videos that you WILL be posting.

2kmoss
04-01-2014, 07:27 AM
I'm currently working on the electronics tray and covers. I got the main tray completed and made some aluminum mounts for the battery and the ECU. I'm going to try to get the cover and side panels made in the next few days.

I also finished all the mounting tabs for the fuel tank and got them welded into the frame.

Spring is here and I'm just about sick of working on this thing, I'm so glad its getting close to being done. Progress may be slowing a bit due to all the upcoming yard work and some fun in the woods hunting turkeys, trout fishing and mushroom hunting! I had hoped to have this thing done by now but the last 25% of the work does indeed take 75% of the time:-)

And I need to stop getting carried away making all these aluminum parts, its eating up so much time!!
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/ElectronicsTray-1_zps014ce535.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/ElectronicsTray-1_zps014ce535.jpg.html)

mmobley
04-01-2014, 07:53 AM
Your build quality is superb Kevin. All of those little things that take so much time is what will set it apart from the norm.

2kmoss
04-01-2014, 08:31 AM
Your build quality is superb Kevin. All of those little things that take so much time is what will set it apart from the norm.

Thanks Mitch!

BajaInspired
04-02-2014, 04:42 AM
Keep at it man. I have been reading all of your posts while trying to figure out if I want to invest $12k in my build right now with a kid due next month. Projects like urs are what make me want to work on mine. Your work is inspiring so don't give up. I wanna see a video soon!

TALON
04-02-2014, 05:36 AM
Agree with the others, little detail bits look great, may take a bit longer but worth it .

2kmoss
04-02-2014, 08:52 PM
Agree with the others, little detail bits look great, may take a bit longer but worth it .

Thanks all! The finishing touches may drag out a bit, but no doubt I'm gonna "git er dun":-)

Duane
04-03-2014, 09:10 AM
Thanks all! The finishing touches may drag out a bit, but no doubt I'm gonna "git er dun":-)

Glitter done!

2kmoss
04-18-2014, 07:31 PM
Got a few updates over the last couple of weeks.
Finished up the electronics tray and all of the covers. I made brackets to hold the battery, ECU, fuse box, air pressure sensor and starter relay. It was alot of work but I'm real happy with the way it turned out. The tray is pretty well organized and I can access the battery and fuse box with the top access panel removed. I also installed a battery tender to make charging easy with no covers to remove.

I completely finished the wiring in the rear of the buggy. All I have to do now is extend all of the wires to the front for the gauge panel, starter, horn, and light switches. I'm so close to being ready to try and start this thing, just a few hours of work left and I can try to turn it over. But its going to be a week or so before I can work on it again. Turkey season is here and I'm done working for awhile. Time to hit the woods and the river for some much need relaxation;-)

Here are some updated photos of the final assembly.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/ElectronicsTray-3_zps7d49860e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/ElectronicsTray-3_zps7d49860e.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/ElectronicsTray-2_zps44804c56.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/ElectronicsTray-2_zps44804c56.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-01_zpsb15d7347.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-01_zpsb15d7347.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-02_zpsf0fab972.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-02_zpsf0fab972.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-04_zps6c77177a.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-04_zps6c77177a.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-08_zps1e1e2446.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-08_zps1e1e2446.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-05_zpsb6883c98.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-05_zpsb6883c98.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-09_zps627b28cf.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-09_zps627b28cf.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-10_zpsd6f699d0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-10_zpsd6f699d0.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-07_zps53614e51.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-07_zps53614e51.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/FinalAssy-06_zps5b21b6d6.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/FinalAssy-06_zps5b21b6d6.jpg.html)

And the next item on my list of things to do. Wire up this mess of wires.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/WiringFront-01_zpsed694096.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/WiringFront-01_zpsed694096.jpg.html)

Up north
04-18-2014, 08:06 PM
Nice dude!

K-fab
04-18-2014, 08:12 PM
That looks sharp!

Are you going to paint the panels or leave them natural? They look awesome just like you've shown. (hint, hint).

Killer little exhaust mount too - you'll want clear coat it before you go out, though. It'll get dingy looking after a while.

2kmoss
04-18-2014, 08:22 PM
Thanks! I'm gonna leave it all natural for now. After the summer and playing with it for awhile I'm gonna tear the whole thing apart again! I'll then pretty up some welds then have it sandblasted and powder coated. At that point I'll really shine up all the aluminum and make it look really pretty. I'm not sure I like the orange too much so I'll probably change up the color scheme.

mmobley
04-21-2014, 10:28 AM
Awesome shifter set up!

Large
04-22-2014, 09:58 AM
That looks really great, and your attention to detail is fantastic.

But that shifter cable should be run as far away from the headers as possible.

2kmoss
04-22-2014, 08:35 PM
That looks really great, and your attention to detail is fantastic.

But that shifter cable should be run as far away from the headers as possible.

Thank you!
I've got some heat shield loom to put over it. Just haven't installed it yet.

ProtoDie
04-22-2014, 09:54 PM
looks good, nice work.

I like the orange :D

Xbird
04-29-2014, 04:11 PM
I'm a big fan of the natural look. maybe machine turn them and clearcoat?

Rat4020
04-30-2014, 10:35 AM
Your AR looks F'N spot on man and the rotor yer usin looks huge in the pict? That should be a big help ya stop when yer flyin down the trails at Mach 2 . Mine had a smaller single rotor when I first got it and ya might as well used Flintstone brakes LOL

2kmoss
05-07-2014, 12:11 AM
It's Alive! finally got it started tonight. I wired everything up to my wiring diagram and the motor would not start. I was racking my brain trying to figure out what I had wired wrong and finally took the covers off of my electronics enclosure and found that I did not push the plugs in all the way on to the ECU. Duh! Once I set the plugs in place I hit the starter button and it started right up. now I have to button up the dashboard install all the switches then I can start installing all the suspension. Hope to test drive within a week or two.

K-fab
05-07-2014, 09:04 AM
Excellent and congrats!!!

I've unplugged the ECU on more than one car to weld on it and then couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start a bit later. Easy one to overlook. Good job on finding it.

Deranged
05-07-2014, 10:39 AM
I like fixes like that.

2kmoss
05-07-2014, 10:53 AM
It was an easy fix but was driving me nuts. I guess I spent around 4-5 hours reading and trying to figure out why the fuel pump wasnt priming. I finally figured out that the guage cluster wasnt getting a signal from the ECU; it had the CHEC light on.

Oh well it was a good lesson learned. I had left the ECU plugs loose because I still have to clip a wire to remove the EXCV trouble code.

I do have the F1 light coming on and I want to try to get this thing into the dealer mode to check and see if I have any other codes. Ive read you have to cycle the engine kill switch and jumper a couple wires but I dont have a kill switch anymore so I need to think about that one for a bit.

BTW, this motor with the SuperTrapp exhaust just sounds wicked. Love it!

Trouble675
05-07-2014, 12:05 PM
[smilie=thumbs_up.g:

2kmoss
05-12-2014, 11:17 AM
Finally got this thing setting on its own feet over the weekend. This is the first time I've had it all assembled at once and I just love the way it looks! I need to come up with a way to adjust the shocks as the front shocks do not sag a bit, the front is sitting a few inches higher than the rear. Guess I need to get a regulator and a small bottle and make a fill tool as well. I dont know how much I might end up playing with the pressure but I'm sure I'll need it eventually.

Still have a bit of work to finish up the dash/bonnet and need to race prep the cv's and get them installed. I ended up buying german made cv's for a song off of ebay so I'm going with that instead of the F150 setup. Havent had alot of time to work on this thing over the last month or so due to being out of town every weekend for the last 5 weeks.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-11_zps4ebc6d54.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-11_zps4ebc6d54.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-12_zps1822662e.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-12_zps1822662e.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-13_zps17491d4b.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-13_zps17491d4b.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-14_zps041a3159.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-14_zps041a3159.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-15_zpsb81645b8.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-15_zpsb81645b8.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-16_zpsb45fc2d4.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-16_zpsb45fc2d4.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-17_zpsb63bdf0b.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-17_zpsb63bdf0b.jpg.html)

2kmoss
05-12-2014, 11:18 AM
Finishing up the dash and bonnet. I hope to get this finished up tonight.
I want to add some trim or something to fill in the corner gaps on the top of the dash but am at a loss on what to do here. Anyone have any ideas or advice here??

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-23_zps03ff7ea2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-23_zps03ff7ea2.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-22_zps4e301144.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-22_zps4e301144.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-21_zpse5e5f5f0.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-21_zpse5e5f5f0.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-20_zps40a859b7.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-20_zps40a859b7.jpg.html)

2kmoss
05-12-2014, 11:19 AM
My favorite picture so far.

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-19_zps1e15b9f2.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-19_zps1e15b9f2.jpg.html)

Duane
05-12-2014, 12:28 PM
I agree this baby looks crazy beautiful!

mmobley
05-12-2014, 05:44 PM
It looks very nice. I like your chrome rims and I also like your "bonnet". Good job!

Large
05-13-2014, 07:11 AM
That looks great

Deranged
05-13-2014, 08:26 AM
Heck yeah!! Did you do something different with the roof line?

Justin

Xbird
05-13-2014, 09:14 AM
Finishing up the dash and bonnet. I hope to get this finished up tonight.
I want to add some trim or something to fill in the corner gaps on the top of the dash but am at a loss on what to do here. Anyone have any ideas or advice here??

Strips of 3/4 aluminum bent to match the corners and riveted to the inside to tie the sides to the front? A couple larger aluminum rivets would keep with the look you have going, which is gorgeous.

2kmoss
05-13-2014, 10:51 AM
Strips of 3/4 aluminum bent to match the corners and riveted to the inside to tie the sides to the front? A couple larger aluminum rivets would keep with the look you have going, which is gorgeous.

That might work. I would want to put them on the outside to cover the gap. I'll probably wait till I tear it down again in the fall for powdercoat.

Thanks!

2kmoss
05-13-2014, 10:53 AM
Heck yeah!! Did you do something different with the roof line?

Justin

I believe the plans show (2) roof line options. Then there is a third option on the full size templates that Rick provides. I used this third option as it keeps the lines of the frame more inline and takes the hump look out of the roof.

Kevin

2kmoss
05-13-2014, 11:06 AM
I finished up the dash/bonnet last night. Got the gauge cluster and all switches mounted and wired. Installed steering wheel, mirrors and cleaned up wiring. Man these RIGID LED headlights are wicked looking, this thing looks like a big evil looking metal bug from the front with the lights on. LOL

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-24_zps4c6b3a74.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-24_zps4c6b3a74.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-25_zps0baacc50.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-25_zps0baacc50.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-26_zps9e5b9759.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-26_zps9e5b9759.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-27_zps42fd154c.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-27_zps42fd154c.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-29_zps77a77235.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-29_zps77a77235.jpg.html)

http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/2kmoss/Final-Assy-28_zps102c39ee.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/user/2kmoss/media/Final-Assy-28_zps102c39ee.jpg.html)

fabdaddy
05-13-2014, 12:06 PM
bEAUTIFUL EVIL LOOKING METAL BUG

mmobley
05-13-2014, 02:24 PM
I was just thinking about your ride height and I believe my yellow buggy sits about 2" lower in the back than the front. I am running 27" on the rear and 25" on the front. I think that may be correct....maybe Rick will chime in?

2kmoss
05-13-2014, 03:19 PM
I was just thinking about your ride height and I believe my yellow buggy sits about 2" lower in the back than the front. I am running 27" on the rear and 25" on the front. I think that may be correct....maybe Rick will chime in?

I'm not even sure what the pressures are in my shocks. I did request 275 psi in front and 375 psi in the rear per the plans but am not sure if thats whats in them.

My suspension does not sag even an inch the way the shocks are now. If I push down on the front and rear they do go down pretty easily but spring right back up to fully extended. I'm thinking this is to stiff and would want at least 3-4 inches of sag in the suspension when the buggy is just sitting there???

I have 28" tires on the rear and 26" on the front and the front is at least 2" higher than the rear. I would love to hear some input here on what might be a good place to start on the ride height. I need to get this set so I can set up the front end geometry.

Thanks

RickS.
05-13-2014, 07:14 PM
The front as designed will sit a little higher than the rear.
I also prefer the shock pressure a tad on the high side.
With air shocks you get a lot of body roll when you run lower pressure.
On this car the handeling is fantastic even with the higher pressures.
I do recommend adding 25cc of oil to both fronts and 70-80cc to each rear.

2kmoss
05-13-2014, 09:32 PM
The front as designed will sit a little higher than the rear.
I also prefer the shock pressure a tad on the high side.
With air shocks you get a lot of body roll when you run lower pressure.
On this car the handeling is fantastic even with the higher pressures.
I do recommend adding 25cc of oil to both fronts and 70-80cc to each rear.

Rick,
Should the shocks be compressed at all with the buggy just setting there? As I mentioned mine are fully extended with no weight in the buggy. Haven't sat in it yet to see if they will compress any with my added 190 lbs in the buggy.
Thanks

RickS.
05-13-2014, 11:46 PM
Mine is not fully topped out when empty.
Maybe a couple of inches into the 18" travel