View Full Version : Mini 1275 to FJ 1200

12-28-2012, 06:53 AM
Buggy with Mini1275 engine(1968)


Mini 1275 cc Buggy off road - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BujFcUNIek)

Mini 1275 cc buggy offroad 1 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H16CyDLOgXc)

Mini 1275 buggy Q4Q 2011 (up) - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1dlj5ygfB4)




Mini diff with sprocket-for the FJ1200 engine


Any ideas to close the openings in the diff?

12-28-2012, 01:29 PM
make little 1/8 plates a bit bigger than the hole and weld them up
then drill and tap a hole in 1 of the plates for a grease zerk
then put a half a tube of grease in it

12-28-2012, 11:35 PM
Thanks, but can I weld on cast iron?

12-29-2012, 12:08 AM
I would think it is cast steel... Cast steel you can weld easy. Cast iron.....Is something else. Can you get one to try welding on?? Warm it up, weld and cool down slowly.

E7018 or allstate 275. Mig, Hard wire E60. I think that's the number. Or a S.S. rod or wire.

12-29-2012, 02:23 AM
Thanks, I was also thinking of using a large cv boot.;)

12-29-2012, 03:27 PM
my diff is the same as yours and yes you can weld to that housing. I think a CVboot would not keep the grease where you want it.
centrafugal forces will throw the grease out the holes and into the boot,imo

12-29-2012, 11:34 PM
Good point, do you also have a Mini diff?
What engine do you have?

12-29-2012, 11:43 PM
What amazes me is those bearings on the diff holding the pull. Do you have them bolted "flat" so that they are being pulled on sideways or are they mounted so that under load the bottom is being compressed by the pull of the engine?

I have seen them both ways and as said above the abuse they will take amazes me.

Neat buggy. I am going to go watch the videos now but the net here is kinda slow tonight so may be a bit....

12-30-2012, 01:43 AM
I am going to bolt them flat onto(on top of) the chassis, so the engine will pull on their bolts, do you think there could be problems?

12-30-2012, 01:48 AM
I doubt there will be issues as I said I have seen those kinda bearings take crazy abuse but myself I would want the flats of the bottoms being pulled right towards the engine just to feel better behind the wheel. I hate to build a problem into something if I can help it.

Also I will point out if you look for the user Nikken on this site there are not many harder than him on a buggy (This guy get airplane kinda airtime) and he has a jackshaft setup with these bearings like this. BUT he does have a geardown AFTER the bearings so that does make it easier on them.

12-30-2012, 02:26 AM
Nicken has more power and i think weight, so those bearings should work. I wish I had his suspension, another problem I have is that I only have rear brakes.....and they are drums.[smilie=tr_rip.gif]

01-06-2013, 01:01 PM
I put a soft-drink bottle over the diff and heated it with a blowtorch, it shrank and molded perfectly around the housing without leaks, hope it lasts[smilie=jumping.gif]http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a587/Erik_Steynberg/20130104_201443_zpscf24dea3.jpg

01-06-2013, 02:32 PM
Now that is thinking out of the box!!!

The diff gets very hot so it probably will melt....see what others say, I like when things like this work!

you may want to shrink a few more bottles on top of what you did...help with the heat the diff will create....

01-06-2013, 02:51 PM
Thanks, it could but at least it costs nothing and it cant do any damage. What causes the diff to become hot? Is it the chain? I don't think I will get another bottle over, I struggled to get that one over after many failed attempts and I don't think it will help.
We will just have to wait and see.

01-06-2013, 05:37 PM
Good thinking. I have seen an article in a magazine a while back that showed a diff covered similarly in fibre glass. May solve the heat issue.

Edit: Could use the bottle as a mould?

01-06-2013, 09:45 PM
Ironot is thinking out of the box!!! great idea!!!

01-06-2013, 11:11 PM
Good thinking. I have seen an article in a magazine a while back that showed a diff covered similarly in fibre glass. May solve the heat issue.

Edit: Could use the bottle as a mould?

Thats a good idea, if the bottle doesnt work i will try it.

01-13-2013, 11:53 AM
Buggy with the fj1200 engine http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a587/Erik_Steynberg/20130113_155705_zps8bd9803b.jpg
Unfortunately I didnt take pics during the process, all that still needs to be done is the axles, exhaust, wiring, radiator mounts and some other small things. Hopefully it will be fully running by next weekend, I will upload some more photos later.
It doesn't have reverse yet but later on I will use a starter for reverse.

01-17-2013, 11:34 AM
Tuesday when I went to get quotes for the exhaust manifold I loosened the ropes at the first place and forgot to fasten them after deciding on another place,I went around the first corner and......[smilie=tr_oops.gif] luckily some bystanders helped me to get it back on the trailer.I received it today and fired up the engine, I will post a video shortly [smilie=jumping.gif][smilie=ecstatic.gif}

01-17-2013, 12:52 PM
FJ1200 buggy first (actually second) start. - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xgtxdh1h8QM&feature=youtu.be)
Now it just needs a good service and cleaning, does anyone know why that cloud of black smoke appeared?

02-16-2013, 10:20 AM

02-16-2013, 10:44 AM
I connected the axles today and temporarily the wires and took it for a spin, the power is incredible[smilie=ecstatic.gi: and it is very responsive but, for some reason the rev counter isn't working,does anyone have any ideas?

02-17-2013, 08:28 AM
It's a slow weekend for responces. It's a holiday weekend here in he states. Presidents' Day.

I don't know the answer but give it a few for people to return.

02-22-2013, 12:19 AM
So nobody knows about the tach, it also seems that the battery isnt charging?

04-07-2013, 11:18 AM
I sorted out the issues with the battery, but after riding on the farm the 2 middle cylinders lost their spark, I cleaned all the connections but still, no luck.

04-07-2013, 11:27 AM
Maybe bad plugs??

04-07-2013, 07:13 PM
If you lost the middle 2 cly....you probably lost a coil, fj1200 1 and 4 share a coil 2 and 3 share a coil....first check and make sure you have a good ground to the body of the coil (you can run a wire from the mounting post directly to a good engine ground). next I would swap the wiring on the 2 coils, after you do that you should lose cly 1 and 4...if so bad coil, most of the time it is due to grounding.... but have had the coils go bad too.

BTW....the grounding problem can also affect your tach...[smilie=whistle.gif]

04-07-2013, 07:42 PM
Oh yeah.... What he said! Ha

04-08-2013, 04:56 AM
Thanks, I will try that as soon as I have time.

06-18-2013, 06:10 AM
I finaly got the time, or the courage to test the other coil, both work but the middle one wont fire when connected. After a short while of testing both the coil that doesn't fire as well as the ic-ignitor get a bit warm.
Thanks, Erik.

08-09-2013, 09:30 AM
I got an idea for reversing, probably a dumb one:D
It was a dumb one.....

08-09-2013, 09:52 AM
Yeah that will not work. It will cause major issues and the motor is only made to cycle one way. Forward!

It sounds like it would work in text. But it's the worst possible thing you could do to a motor.

Besides the starter only extends with the natural starting motion. It would not start or engage if ran in reverse.

09-15-2013, 07:35 AM
I fried my cdi and coils and replaced them with ones from a Fj1100.
I put in extra fuses between the cdi and coils to protect them and started the engine. As soon as I revved the engine the fuses as well as the main fuse blew, I replaced all the fuses but now it doesn't have spark at all.:eek:
Any advice? Thanks.

04-28-2014, 04:31 PM
Got my Dyna ignition system a few weeks ago and completed the wiring over the weekend, took it to a trail sunday for some testing then this happened, had to drive like that for a few k's to get to the trailer, hit a bump that I didnt see and bent the sideshaft:(

04-28-2014, 06:23 PM
never seen a shock go like that--did the shaft tear through the outer body? would almost seem like the piston locked up in it.

04-28-2014, 09:49 PM
impressive! maybe one of the eyelet bushings was seized causing it to torque in travel. I've seen a few atv style shocks loose movement at the eyelet.

Time for a pair of new shocks. Perhaps some monroes or fox air?

04-29-2014, 02:10 AM
i hope you get this bad boy running. Cant wait to see it go!

04-29-2014, 05:35 AM
never seen a shock go like that--did the shaft tear through the outer body? would almost seem like the piston locked up in it.
I think it had a stop at the bottom of the shaft that broke off and the shaft popped out.

impressive! maybe one of the eyelet bushings was seized causing it to torque in travel. I've seen a few atv style shocks loose movement at the eyelet.

Time for a pair of new shocks. Perhaps some monroes or fox air?

I wanted Fox, but they are going to be too expensive...think I will get Monroes.

i hope you get this bad boy running. Cant wait to see it go!
I know, I started this "quick engine swap" in December 2012, its about time to get things done!

Those shocks are actually made for trucks to enhance loading capacity...so Im glad they're gone actually, they were very hard.

04-29-2014, 02:03 PM
I decided to get a pair of Monroe Max-airs (MA758), looks like people on the forum have had success with them.
I also need a new voltage regulator, so now I have to choose between that or suspension for this month....

04-29-2014, 03:52 PM
2 words ... limiting straps!

04-30-2014, 12:58 AM
if you can get back tontesting with the shocks I'd start there. Whatever gets you in the dirt sooner..:)

04-30-2014, 03:03 PM
Where can I get reliable info on the Monroe shocks? Every website I find has different info on extended and collapsed lengths and on weather the shocks have 2 eyelets or not.

04-30-2014, 05:51 PM
I would PM the folks in this thread:

No pesonal experience but Someone did post the exact model in a thread not too long ago.

05-03-2014, 06:17 PM
Im struggling to order the shocks from ebay, but I at least got the voltage regulator, it charges the battery at the correct voltage but here's my problem:30846
Hopefully someone can help me.

05-21-2014, 06:33 AM
My shocks should arrive this week or next week:D Is it possible that those wires in the post above got hot because I had 2 deadish batteries connected and the alternator had to work too hard to charge them? (18 and 70 amp batteries)

05-21-2014, 09:34 PM
It's possible... But...

Odd that the supply to regulator are getting that hot. Guess you can always see how it works with a good battery.

05-25-2014, 10:45 AM
WOW, just went onto badlandbuggy website, started suspecting that my buggy is a sabretooth, then found a picture of it on their website!! :eek:
Anyway, heres a picture of the new shocks.


It now has way more travel than it had with those stiff coil-overs.

05-25-2014, 12:25 PM
Would you like me to drop this over into a Sabretooth forum? I'd be glad to make one for you.

05-25-2014, 12:43 PM
That would be great.

05-25-2014, 09:00 PM
Done! :)

05-28-2014, 09:08 AM
Thanks K-fab!

I just ordered a Trail-tech Vapor through E-bay :D Its going to be awesome to have a speedo and a tach that actually works.
I will also need to move the mufflers closer to the engine, at full droop the shocks press against them.

06-05-2014, 03:08 PM
Nice clean looking buggy!

10-15-2014, 04:46 AM
Thanks Daboots.
Progress on this thing is really slow, but I am going to get it in top condition before the end of the year.
I set it on fire a while ago :eek:

After a good carb clean its running like never before.
I am busy putting Monroe shocks at the front, will post some pictures later.

10-15-2014, 11:12 PM
Had quite a bit of burn time going there! :eek: Glad it didn't get far ... something tells me you got an earful moments after that vid ends ;)

10-16-2014, 07:05 AM
Yes, that was right after I fitted the new Dynatek system, luckily no damage whatsoever.
My mother was actually quite calm.:p

I have a few free hours, Im going to try and get the shocks done.

10-16-2014, 02:48 PM
The shocks are in.....looks like it can be rock crawler now.:cool::D

10-18-2014, 03:45 AM
I have a strange charging problem, when the engine runs, the volts go up to 13.8V, but the battery doesn't charge :confused:

10-18-2014, 04:04 AM
If your getting 13.8v I would imagine it is a battery problem (but I'm no sparkie). Try a different battery or charging the one you have, then you'll know if its a charging system problem or a battery problem at the very least.

10-18-2014, 04:12 AM
The battery is brand new and has been checked, so I don't know.
Tested again, volts don't go up anymore and the voltage regulator rectifier gets extremely hot.

12-12-2014, 11:36 AM
Im busy fitting a car alternator now, its going to run with a pulley from the oem alternator.
Does anyone know what the engine rpm to alternator rpm ratio is?
I need to choose the right size pulley....
Thanks, Erik.

12-12-2014, 12:23 PM
You can go one to one with that. Most (good) alternators can spin upwards of 15K+ and be fine (recalling a conversation w/bdkw1)

12-12-2014, 01:08 PM
I tested it now and it is 1:1 so its going to spin at 9000rpm max

12-13-2014, 12:03 AM
You should be just fine with that. [smilie=thumbs_up.g:

04-01-2015, 07:25 AM
I made an air suspension control system, going to try and install everything today.