PDA

View Full Version : GVouvakos ST3 Build



Pages : [1] 2 3

gvouvakos
06-25-2012, 09:55 AM
Hello everybody!

After reading hundreds of posts and other people's builds, finally my own topic!

Last summer i decided to start building my own buggy. Due to lack of money and time I never started one. One year ago, I registered myself in minibuggy.net, bought the st3 plans from Badland buggy and started reading other people's builds and searching for parts.

A little bit about myself.

My name is Giorgos (same as George) and I live in the small island, Cyprus. I am 17 years old and I have been fabricating and welding since i was 13. At the university i will be studying civil engineering.

I have just ordered the steel tubing and hope to get them in the next couple of days. I ordered 35mm OD tubing for the main structure, 40mm square tubing for the chassis and 27mm for the suspension arms and diagonal reinforcement.

I am very lucky because i have free access to professional mig tig arc welders, professional blade saws, laser cutter, bench drill and lathe. I want to fabricate most parts myself in order to save money. :cool: However, the only thing that will cost me a lot are the air shocks. The shipping alone is 220 dollars + 800 for the shocks and another 17% VAT:mad::mad:

I do not have the engine yet, but i have called an insurance company in my area and i will go to the place where they store their crashed motorcycles. I will get a v-twin engine, 600cc and use a homemade gear reduction box to have good acceleration

The buggy will be driven in mountain trails so i do not want high speed but high torque.

I have not yet decided about the drive line, but most probably i will use tractor u-joints with trailing arms and homemade hubs. I really liked TTGInc's speed reduction box so i will make something similar.

With the help of God :p, this weekend i will start welding the chassis and main frame. Then start the front suspension and steering system. I hope to give it a test run in less than 3-4 months. I am so so excited and i can wait to get started.

I hope that you will follow my build

Greetings from Cyprus
Giorgos

samram13
06-25-2012, 12:32 PM
good luck George, glad your with us

gvouvakos
07-06-2012, 06:57 AM
There was a small update in my build. Today I tacked the chassis together. And cut the tubes for the front A-arms. On monday i will go to a shop to have my tube bend. And hopefully start the main frame. Can someone suggest me a good place to buy my bushings from ?


http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-06102306.jpg

gvouvakos
07-09-2012, 10:06 AM
Front A-arms are now fully welded

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-09123017.jpg

ErwinBnl
07-15-2012, 05:37 AM
Hey!

Nice to see you have started your own build!:D The start is made...

Funny to see that the first 2 rows of your topic starting post are the same as my topic haha:cool:


Good luck and keep the photo updates coming! ;)

Erwin

gvouvakos
07-15-2012, 01:20 PM
Erwin. You got me [smilie=gun_bash.gi:. I had no idea how to start my topic so I "borrowed" the 2 first lines from your topic.[smilie=whistle.gif] I hope you do not have copyright laws.

No wait. It is not exactly the same. I have added a small phrase " and other people's builds" :D

gvouvakos
07-16-2012, 09:23 AM
Hi. I finally got my bended tubes so i was able to continue with the frame. I finished tack welding the frame. Tomorrow finish the reinforcing and finish all the welds. I also got my laser cut plates for the front uprights, A-arm mounts and shock mounts.

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16081711.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16102618.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16102935.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16105143.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16125736.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16172624.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16172735.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-16173857.jpg

gvouvakos
07-19-2012, 05:55 AM
God my rod ends today. 5/8 teflon lined with reducers.

Damn it. I am now missing one of the lower shock mounts. i have no idea if i got 8 from the laser cut shop but now i have 7. :(

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-19095321.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-19104049.jpg

And paint the frame with primer.
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-19122238.jpg

gvouvakos
07-19-2012, 11:23 AM
Front uprights fully welded. Tomorrow i will go shopping for sanding discs, and grind them. I got a teflon rod to make my bushings. I hope by tomorrow have my bushings ready so i can assemble the front end :D

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-19194748.jpg

gvouvakos
07-20-2012, 05:06 AM
I was able to make my bushings on a lathe and threats on my axles

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0342.jpg

gvouvakos
07-21-2012, 01:44 AM
Today my uncle gave me a racing seat. I need to find another one with similar colours for the passenger

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0345.jpg

daaboots
07-22-2012, 08:20 AM
Nice looking buggy so far.

gvouvakos
07-22-2012, 08:41 AM
Thank you daaboots. I am trying to do my best, because i have been planing this build for more than a year :)

Lknight98
07-22-2012, 09:08 AM
how much are you expecting to spend on it? looks like an epic build :)

gvouvakos
07-22-2012, 09:37 AM
I am only 17 so i do not want to spend a lot of money. I have 2000 euros (2500 dollars) to spend on parts except the engine. The engine and wiring will be paid by my father :D

Lknight98
07-22-2012, 09:45 AM
im only 14 and i'm building my own buggy, is what i've done is buy an old 650cc joyner buggy that needs a lot of work on it, but i'm taking everything of the buggy and putting it onto my own frame. and the buggy cost 880 and then i have to design my frame and i can't spend more than 200 on the frame.
i've always wanted to build a buggy like this or like a piranha but i don't have the money and i can't work -.- will you be using a differential?

gvouvakos
07-22-2012, 09:51 AM
Not decided yet if i will use a differential, because i will be driving it both on road and off road. After i finish the front suspension and steering i will decide about the rear

Lknight98
07-22-2012, 10:27 AM
if your using a bike engine then chain drive differentials can be quite expensive, some of them are over 1500

gvouvakos
07-22-2012, 10:49 AM
definitely not a reverse differential. Maybe an LSD diferential from a car

rob8420
07-22-2012, 11:01 AM
It would be easier if you used non-lock nuts on one end and then welded on and spun it on the lathe again it would look better IMO:D

gvouvakos
07-22-2012, 11:21 AM
It would be easier if you used non-lock nuts on one end and then welded on and spun it on the lathe again it would look better IMO:D

Thanks for the suggestion.

gvouvakos
07-23-2012, 10:49 AM
Today I moved the buggy from my friend's shop in my small warehouse. And also put the front suspension together. Now i need to find out how i am going to mount the shocks. ;)

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0346.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0348.jpg

Lknight98
07-23-2012, 10:55 AM
looks great! how much have you spent on the frame so far?

gvouvakos
07-23-2012, 11:02 AM
I have used metal pipe not tubing so the frame did not cost a lot. But i haven't yet paid for the metal. I believe around 150 euros for the metal and i paid 30 euros for bending :D

Lknight98
07-23-2012, 11:08 AM
REALLY?! thats cheap i got a quote of 120 for all of my 4 tubes :eek:

gvouvakos
07-23-2012, 11:17 AM
REALLY?! thats cheap i got a quote of 120 for all of my 4 tubes :eek:

As i said i used pipe not tube which is cheaper

Lknight98
07-23-2012, 11:24 AM
my pipes were more expensive...

gvouvakos
08-02-2012, 06:38 AM
I have finally finished the front shock mounts. I could not get 90 degrees at full bump. I believe it's about 70 degrees. I would need to do a lot of modification to get 90. Now i need to find hubs, brake discs and calipers for the front and of-course wheels

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-24192752.jpg

ErwinBnl
08-03-2012, 11:26 AM
Why did you remove that one bar? It seems on this photo that the future shock will have enough room without removing that bar. Can't you place them both?

gvouvakos
08-03-2012, 01:40 PM
Why did you remove that one bar? It seems on this photo that the future shock will have enough room without removing that bar. Can't you place them both?

No room at all. It would definitely hit at full bump. But in this setup, the shock may hit the upper a-arm. If this happens i will use a limit strap to prevent this and also prevent the steering heim from bottoming ;)

gvouvakos
08-07-2012, 11:32 AM
Today my grandpa gave me a pair of wheels. 13" rim with 23" wheel. I was thinking of using these for the front but the problem is that the hub mounting is 5 1/2" deep from the inside of the wheel. In other words i will need a longer trailer stub axles. This is the kit i will buy.

Unbraked suspension units with cast hubs (http://www.trailertek.com/cgi-bin/sh000003.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2etrailertek% 2ecom%2facatalog%2findexcat1%2ehtml&WD=hub%20kit&PN=Unbraked_Units_with_Hubs%2ehtml%23aSAXK100#aSAX K100)

My question is, can i extend (aprox. 2 ") the stub axles using 1" round bar without increasing the chance of failure? i will be using car brake discs and calipers. And also will this cause a problem when mounting the brake calipers? I hope you understand what I am trying to say. (English are not my first language)

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0355.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0361.jpg

gvouvakos
08-15-2012, 09:51 AM
Front wheels mock up

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0370.jpg

And yes.. that's me driving it :D

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0372.jpg

Chikin
08-16-2012, 10:52 PM
Your sitting on the wrong side. . . . . Oh wait "were" on the wrong side. Ha

Looks like its coming together quite well

TALON
08-17-2012, 01:33 AM
That is a lot of distance to make up,and will certainly make it weaker but will it be too weak ,,,all would depend on how hard you are driving jumping etc i suppose.When you say extend i hope you mean make a new LONGER stub,extend no good. How about longer stub buy an inch and an inch spacer ,or maybe mod the wheel centre,or just try to find wheels with the right offset ,someone here should be able to help.

How did you go motor shopping ?

gvouvakos
08-17-2012, 02:18 AM
Your sitting on the wrong side. . . . . Oh wait "were" on the wrong side. Ha

Looks like its coming together quite well

Thanks :D

gvouvakos
08-17-2012, 02:23 AM
That is a lot of distance to make up,and will certainly make it weaker but will it be too weak ,,,all would depend on how hard you are driving jumping etc i suppose.When you say extend i hope you mean make a new LONGER stub,extend no good. How about longer stub buy an inch and an inch spacer ,or maybe mod the wheel centre,or just try to find wheels with the right offset ,someone here should be able to help.

How did you go motor shopping ?

Most shops are now closed for summer vacations.. I was not able to contact the guy for the motors but most probably he will be back next week.. Also a friend suggested me a shop where i will be able to buy brake discs and calipers.. and hopefully wheels with the right offset

rockrae
08-18-2012, 02:28 PM
Looking good like the shop wish I had that kind of room to build in

gvouvakos
08-19-2012, 02:50 AM
Looking good like the shop wish I had that kind of room to build in

Hah.. thanks. I have 2 feet space in front, 10" in the back and 3 feet in the one side.. It is very big ;)

gvouvakos
08-27-2012, 12:35 PM
Summer vacations are over so all shops are open :D I picked up a pair of disk brakes and calipers to use in the front. The guy also gave me a 3 wheels for free!! So now i have a spare one.

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-08-27200839.jpg

They are off a nissan n14.

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-08-27210450.jpg

The calipers are hugeeee in contrast with my upright ;)

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-08-27201219.jpg

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-08-27210459.jpg

Tomorrow i will go shopping for a pair of trailer hubs.. Still have no motor :mad:

grga88
08-27-2012, 01:31 PM
Nice build. Keep up the good work ;)

gvouvakos
08-28-2012, 01:35 PM
Nice build. Keep up the good work ;)

Thanks :)

gvouvakos
08-28-2012, 01:46 PM
Finally i bought a pair of trailer hubs, their stub axles were square so had to modify my uprights. I have ordered my steering rack and pinion and u-joints from vw aircooled enthusiasts

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0392.jpg

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0394.jpg

Painted my wheels silver

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0395.jpg

Tomorrow i will be busy making the caliper mounts ;)

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0396.jpg

gvouvakos
08-29-2012, 02:43 PM
and more :)

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0397.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0398.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0399.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0400.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0401.jpg

gvouvakos
08-31-2012, 01:06 AM
A short video

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/th_SAM_0403.jpg (http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/?action=view&current=SAM_0403.mp4)

Deranged
08-31-2012, 03:02 AM
Very nice! I like the use of parts. What are those rotors from? I don't think you will have a problem stopping.

Justin.

gvouvakos
08-31-2012, 04:02 AM
Very nice! I like the use of parts. What are those rotors from? I don't think you will have a problem stopping.

Justin.

Hi.. Thanks.. The calipers and rotors are off a nissan n14.. Picked them up all for 60 euros (90 dollars)

gvouvakos
09-03-2012, 11:14 AM
Hey guys.. I have a few questions and i hope someone can help me.

It's time to design my drive line (even though i do not have an engine yet)

I want to do a simple u-joint setup with tractor pto drive shafts like this one:

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-09-03190816.jpg

I will be using a 600cc or 750cc motor. I have found similar axles like in the picture with 1-3/8, six spline yokes and shaft. My question is will this setup be strong enough to handle the power from the motor?

an do i need camber? the pto shafts can plunge a lot

gvouvakos
09-10-2012, 11:02 AM
I am very frustrated since i cannot find a motorcycle engine.. so there is a delay in my buggy. I have spotted a crashed gsxr1000, 2010 or 2011 model but the guy wants 2000 euros (2700 dollars) i will make him an offer. I can find an old running motorcycle, for 2000 dollars but i don think it worth's spending 2000 dollars for a motorcycle more than 20 years old :mad:

Lknight98
09-10-2012, 11:38 AM
some bikes you will be able to bargain for and lower the price so if they want 200- euros i reckon you can get for about 1800, but for a 1000cc engine 2000 is not too bad, how old is it?

gvouvakos
09-10-2012, 11:47 AM
some bikes you will be able to bargain for and lower the price so if they want 200- euros i reckon you can get for about 1800, but for a 1000cc engine 2000 is not too bad, how old is it?

The bike is from a recent accident, and it is in very bad condition.. I am not sure about the age but i think is a late model ( maybe 2010) and i do not think someone will give 2000 euros for a motorcycle for spare parts.

Lknight98
09-10-2012, 12:09 PM
oh i thought that it was like a bit of body damage

wyattboche
09-11-2012, 11:15 AM
I have used metal pipe not tubingThis might hurt you later on. I think pipe is heavier(might be wrong) than tube. Might want to weigh the buggy before getting the shocks. Espically the front shocks.

gvouvakos
09-11-2012, 12:02 PM
This might hurt you later on. I think pipe is heavier(might be wrong) than tube. Might want to weigh the buggy before getting the shocks. Espically the front shocks.

The shocks i will buy them after i install the engine and everything else, so i can weight it and have my shocks filled correctly.. However i do not think there is a huge difference between the weight of tubes and pipe

gvouvakos
09-12-2012, 07:42 AM
Today i got my metal sheets.

1x aluminum 1.5 mm thick for the body panels
and 1x steel 1.5mm for the floor

How should i remove the shine of the aluminum so i will be able to paint it?

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0440.jpg

gvouvakos
09-13-2012, 10:45 AM
Today, i have finish the floor, i used 1/8 thick tabs with hexagonal bolts..

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0441.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0442.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0444.jpg

Chikin
09-13-2012, 12:37 PM
It's sure is coming along. Floor looks great. Use a D/A sander to scuff the surface to take gloss off and perp to paint. Those sanders work great for that.

gvouvakos
09-13-2012, 12:45 PM
It's sure is coming along. Floor looks great. Use a D/A sander to scuff the surface to take gloss off and perp to paint. Those sanders work great for that.

Thanks :)I do not have a D/A sander, but i have a sanding disc for an angle grinder.. I will give it a try tomorrow

Chikin
09-13-2012, 01:02 PM
Only problem with the grinder is it will dig and scar the surface. Plus it spins too fast. Do you live anywhere close to a parts store to get even a powered hand sander or just do it by hand with 120 grit paper.

The grinder will mess up the surface too bad for a good finish product.
I would tell you this if I had not done it before.

gvouvakos
09-13-2012, 01:10 PM
Only problem with the grinder is it will dig and scar the surface. Plus it spins too fast. Do you live anywhere close to a parts store to get even a powered hand sander or just do it by hand with 120 grit paper.

The grinder will mess up the surface too bad for a good finish product.
I would tell you this if I had not done it before.

I will try by hand with a grit paper :) if it does not works for me i will search for a hand grinder

gvouvakos
09-14-2012, 10:44 AM
Today, I picked up my rack and pinion and u-joints from the post office.. Many thanks to aircooledenthousiast

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0447.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0449.jpg

And finished a piece of body panel
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0450.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0452.jpg

vegasloki
09-16-2012, 12:06 AM
This might hurt you later on. I think pipe is heavier(might be wrong) than tube. Might want to weigh the buggy before getting the shocks. Espically the front shocks.

A main difference between pipe and tubing is how it is sized. Pipe is sized by inside diameter with a wall thickness that makes up the outside diameter. Mechanical tubing is sized by outside diameter with the wall thickness making up the inside diameter. Very likely that a 2" pipe will have more material than a 2" piece of tubing due to having more material. The weights per foot can be found at various places online for both pipe and tubing.

In addition to weight, another consideration would be tooling, like bender dies and dimensions that were speced for tube instead of pipe. For example a a 2" pipe die is different than a 2" tubing die and would need different calculations for the same bend.

gvouvakos
09-17-2012, 10:41 AM
I have almost finished the tie rods, and a friend gave me four 15" wheels to use, need to change the http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0453.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0454.jpg

And a short video of the rack and tie rod
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/th_SAM_0456.jpg (http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/?action=view&current=SAM_0456.mp4)

Chikin
09-17-2012, 01:29 PM
Is the bend (at the end of the steering link) so the heim is not at the wrong angl with the travel.
Only issue is the steering like moves (twist forward or backwards) due to where the rack mount is on that arm. Would make some way to make sure that the steering link will not roll like that.
I get the reason for the angle. But stop the rolling of the rod itself.

Either add washers and tighten it down super snug. Or tighten bolt so it allows a the rod to move only up and down. Easy fix.

gvouvakos
09-18-2012, 05:21 AM
Is the bend (at the end of the steering link) so the heim is not at the wrong angl with the travel.
Only issue is the steering like moves (twist forward or backwards) due to where the rack mount is on that arm. Would make some way to make sure that the steering link will not roll like that.
I get the reason for the angle. But stop the rolling of the rod itself.

Either add washers and tighten it down super snug. Or tighten bolt so it allows a the rod to move only up and down. Easy fix.

Yes, i was thinking of fixing it by tighten everything and add washers.. next think to do today

Deranged
09-19-2012, 08:08 PM
The grinder behind the wheels has one hell of a disk on it. Lol!:D

Justin

Chikin
09-19-2012, 08:47 PM
The grinder behind the wheels has one hell of a disk on it. Lol!:D

Justin

Yeah sure is. But are those half socks black with white shoes.
Progressive fashion. (I'm just kidding)

Yeah the washers would fix the play with the steering.

gvouvakos
09-20-2012, 05:23 AM
Yeah sure is. But are those half socks black with white shoes.
Progressive fashion. (I'm just kidding)

Yeah the washers would fix the play with the steering.

Haha.. yes, new fashion :P

gvouvakos
09-21-2012, 05:47 AM
Brand new racing steering wheel :D

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0457_zpse6c044e4.jpg

gvouvakos
09-24-2012, 11:31 AM
Not much of an update! i have finished the tie rods, got my steering shaft , waiting for the pillow block bearings. And also send the dxf file for the pedal boxes to be laser cut. It is similar to the edge pedal boxes, but with one brake bias pedal and 2 single pedals for throttle and clutch .

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-09-24162327_zps3b109516.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-09-24185948_zps9cdffc7d.jpg

gvouvakos
09-25-2012, 09:11 AM
Some photos of my buggy in the yard! hope you like it :D

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0463.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0458.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0461.jpg

Chikin
09-27-2012, 12:52 PM
Looking good. Only a few things left right???? Ha kidding.

gvouvakos
09-28-2012, 05:35 AM
Haha!! lots of things to do. And the most important is that finding a motorcycle engine is very hard :mad:

Nerull
09-28-2012, 09:17 AM
Front uprights fully welded. Tomorrow i will go shopping for sanding discs, and grind them. I got a teflon rod to make my bushings. I hope by tomorrow have my bushings ready so i can assemble the front end :D

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-07-19194748.jpg

I need spindle uprights, how can I find spindle uprights in stores? I have to make it myself?

gvouvakos
09-28-2012, 10:28 AM
The uprights i am using are badlands buggy design! You can buy a pair of uprights from rick http://www.rickskraschsite.com/catalog.php?ProdPage=KDAF34W. check around.. you can find a lot of stuff.

gvouvakos
09-28-2012, 01:52 PM
Today i finally received a pair of pillow block bearings for the steering shaft, and i have a small problem. My shaft is 16mm but the pillow blocks are 17mm, and when i tighten the set screws, the shaft moves to one side.. Is there a way to fix this ?

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-09-28164633.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-09-28172406.jpg

Chikin
09-28-2012, 02:24 PM
Could you make a round shim to fit over the steering shaft?

Maybe make a flat piece of sheet metal that will fit over the steering shaft and into the pillow block. Then tighten down. Just an idea but let's see what others say.

gvouvakos
09-29-2012, 10:26 AM
Finished the steering system.. waiting for my laser cut plates of the pedals.

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0466.jpg

And a short video
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/th_SAM_0467.jpg (http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/?action=view&current=SAM_0467.mp4)

gvouvakos
10-03-2012, 05:49 AM
Finally got my laser cut plates for 65 euros (90 dollars)

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0469.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0470.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0471.jpg

gvouvakos
10-03-2012, 07:38 AM
Pedals tacked in place. tomorrow i will go to the lathe shop to make 6 bushings!! also mounted my steering wheel. and hopefully by Saturday have a cbr600 motorcycle as a donor :D i hope everything will go right.

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-10-03155840.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-10-03162730.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-10-03162737.jpg

gvouvakos
10-05-2012, 10:22 AM
Mounted the pedals

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0472.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0473.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0474.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0477.jpg

Chikin
10-05-2012, 11:14 AM
Nice pedal assembly. And half socks??? Are you afraid of "full socks"
Ha

gvouvakos
10-05-2012, 12:42 PM
Nice pedal assembly. And half socks??? Are you afraid of "full socks"
Ha

hah!! it's too hot to wear full socks :p

Deranged
10-05-2012, 04:51 PM
DUDE! the steering wheel is on the wrong side!:p

Chikin
10-05-2012, 06:42 PM
hah!! it's too hot to wear full socks :p

I wear 2 pairs every day for the last 18 years. It's softer on my back in the long run. And we'll it's 110 to 115 degrees here for the past few months. (43.3 Celsius )

So i know about heat. Phoenix Arizona is always hot. Even on Xmas day it's warm.

gvouvakos
10-06-2012, 04:26 AM
DUDE! the steering wheel is on the wrong side!:p

Haha!! i think you are right :p

gvouvakos
10-11-2012, 10:14 AM
Decided that i will use double a-arms in the rear also!! and bought a pair of pto shafts to use

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-10-10162735.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-10-11182549.jpg

gvouvakos
10-15-2012, 10:52 AM
Finally bought a donor bike! Yamaha FZX 750, 1998, around 100 hp, 4 cylinders, 5 valves per cylinder, 6 speed! however I have no idea how to change gears! so please help me :rolleyes:

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0517.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0518.jpg

And a short video of the engine running
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/th_SAM_0519.jpg (http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/?action=view&current=SAM_0519.mp4)

And started stripping it!
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0520.jpg

Chikin
10-15-2012, 11:19 AM
Hey I use some thing like this.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k5/chikin1974/IMAG0791.jpg

And we'll it's hard to see but follow the shifting like to the right side of the photo. Pull back it shifts up. And the other way shifts down. Just behind the yellow scoop on the lower right side is the other shift arm that points down to the bike shift lever. http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k5/chikin1974/IMAG0792.jpg



Not real easy to make but should give you an idea for your buggy.
Mine works awesome by the way. Plus my clutch is on the shift handle.

gvouvakos
10-15-2012, 11:34 AM
I have seen a lot of people using such shifting mechanism! i think i will be able to do this! but my actual question is (i have never ridden a motorcycle in my life, since i am not yet allowed) how do you shift gears on the motorcycle? i mean what is the shift pattern?

Chikin
10-15-2012, 11:51 AM
Well on the bike. It's 1 down 5 up.

Ok that means you start by pushing down for 1st gear. And all the other gears are pulling up on the shift lever.
So for instance on my shifter. Mine is 1st gear is forward and back is 2,3,4,5.

Use the clutch to start off when in first. Then you don't really need the clutch when you shift in to other gears. The gears are close together in speed and well once you shift the rpm"s of the motor are just a bit off and that's a matter of getting used to. But it's simple. Like shoes. Easy once you tie the laces.

gvouvakos
10-15-2012, 12:00 PM
I have tried this today (1st down and then up) when the engine was not running, but i don't think i was changing gears, i could hear the 1st gear engaging (i could hear a click) but when shifting up i could not hear the click! the guy came with the bike from his house 50 km away, so i am sure the gearbox have no problem! it will show when i install the engine

Chikin
10-15-2012, 12:09 PM
Well when shifting in to 2,3,4 or 5th. The bike chain has to move to hear it shift. You can sit still and it won't shift. So Rick the bike back and forth while pulling up in the shifter. You'll hear it shift.


Oh and neutral is In-between 1st and 2nd. So when you want the bike in neutral. Rock the bike forward and backwards while moving the shifter.

gvouvakos
10-15-2012, 12:15 PM
Well when shifting in to 2,3,4 or 5th. The bike chain has to move to hear it shift. You can sit still and it won't shift. So Rick the bike back and forth while pulling up in the shifter. You'll hear it shift.


Oh and neutral is In-between 1st and 2nd. So when you want the bike in neutral. Rock the bike forward and backwards while moving the shifter.

This explains everything! tomorrow i will raise the bike so that the rear wheel is not touching the ground, and i will tell someone to spin the wheel and try shifting gears upwards and see what happens! thanks for the help chikin

Chikin
10-15-2012, 01:23 PM
Hey no problem. I used to be the guy doing wheelies every where and well I remember being new to motorcycles. Glad to help when ever I can.

Hey I even had to look up Cyprus and show my wife. Hey look. I m helping some one half a world away. Ha

gvouvakos
10-15-2012, 09:59 PM
Hey no problem. I used to be the guy doing wheelies every where and well I remember being new to motorcycles. Glad to help when ever I can.

Hey I even had to look up Cyprus and show my wife. Hey look. I m helping some one half a world away. Ha

If you ever come to Cyprus, give me a call :p

Chikin
10-15-2012, 10:06 PM
That I will do if I ever make it out of the USA.

gvouvakos
10-16-2012, 10:57 AM
Finally! got the engine out! and it's big! the easy part is done, now i have to find how to mount it :)
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0521_zpsd209cc20.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0522_zpsca22e31b.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0523_zps91fb8ce8.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0524_zps5dc35e00.jpg

monkeyinfantry
10-16-2012, 11:00 AM
Are you going to do a fresh re-build or run it as-is?

gvouvakos
10-16-2012, 11:16 AM
Are you going to do a fresh re-build or run it as-is?

I don't have the knowledge to rebuilt the engine! i will change the oil my self, and i hope my cousin which is a mechanic, will help me with rebuilding the engine :)

tbwcurtis
10-16-2012, 11:28 AM
Your build is looking great. How are you doing on the motor? From experience, find someone who knows about motors, I blew my engine twice due to mechanic, issues :) looking great.

monkeyinfantry
10-16-2012, 11:40 AM
I don't have the knowledge to rebuilt the engine! i will change the oil my self, and i hope my cousin which is a mechanic, will help me with rebuilding the engine :)

If you want to get into motors, I suggest first rebuilding and synchronizing the carbs. They're pretty easy, all the parts are small and relatively cheap, all you need is a synch tool and the bike's shop manual/the internet. Its an easy way to start doing some hands on work to the motor without tearing into the motor itself.

I looked through my CBR1000 when I was going to put it back into my buggy and it was all good to go, but when we started her up it sounded very wrong, so we took the carbs off and sure enough we were missing some 0-rings inside, some of the rubber seals were falling apart like toilet paper in water, and over all had some material build up. We cleaned up the carbs, bought new parts, synchronized them, and she ran like a champ. Could have saved myself some time if I had just went right to the carbs [smilie=alright.gif]

and if youre not good at remembering how parts came apart, take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures. :D

gvouvakos
10-16-2012, 12:24 PM
Your build is looking great. How are you doing on the motor? From experience, find someone who knows about motors, I blew my engine twice due to mechanic, issues :) looking great.

Thanks! i prefer having an expert next to me if i don't know how to do something:)

gvouvakos
10-16-2012, 12:27 PM
If you want to get into motors, I suggest first rebuilding and synchronizing the carbs. They're pretty easy, all the parts are small and relatively cheap, all you need is a synch tool and the bike's shop manual/the internet. Its an easy way to start doing some hands on work to the motor without tearing into the motor itself.

I looked through my CBR1000 when I was going to put it back into my buggy and it was all good to go, but when we started her up it sounded very wrong, so we took the carbs off and sure enough we were missing some 0-rings inside, some of the rubber seals were falling apart like toilet paper in water, and over all had some material build up. We cleaned up the carbs, bought new parts, synchronized them, and she ran like a champ. Could have saved myself some time if I had just went right to the carbs [smilie=alright.gif]

and if youre not good at remembering how parts came apart, take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures take pictures. :D

Firstly, i will mount the motor in the buggy, connect everything together, extent some of the wires,and fire it up to make sure everything is working properly! then with the help of my cousin, i will rebuild the engine! i don't want to do this alone

gvouvakos
10-17-2012, 10:20 AM
Is there anyone that can design for me a 60 tooth sprocket for 530 chain? Importing one from the USA will cost me double I have tried to use the software sprocketear but the sprocket teeth are all mixed up.. :confused:

ErwinBnl
10-18-2012, 05:39 AM
Nice looking bike, good to start with! It sounds heavy on your video..

I wanted to suggest you to start the motorcycle, use the clutch to get it in first and peddle your first meters on a motorcycle and then pull your feet from the ground.. But then I looked further in the threat and saw your motorcylce been cut and disassembled.. so that isn't a option anymore:p

I assume that you have your car driving license so you know how to handle the gas, brakes and clutch.. I would use this motorcycle for my first time driving a motorcycle:p

Then you also could figure out how to shift gears.



You are gonna use your buggy off-road I think? Then I don't really know of that air filters are good enough to hold all the sand and debris out of your engine.. it look to me that they won't be good enough :o


Thanks for all the photo's and video, I love them! Haven't seen them on your Facebook account?!

Erwin

gvouvakos
10-19-2012, 05:24 AM
Nice looking bike, good to start with! It sounds heavy on your video..

I wanted to suggest you to start the motorcycle, use the clutch to get it in first and peddle your first meters on a motorcycle and then pull your feet from the ground.. But then I looked further in the threat and saw your motorcylce been cut and disassembled.. so that isn't a option anymore:p

I assume that you have your car driving license so you know how to handle the gas, brakes and clutch.. I would use this motorcycle for my first time driving a motorcycle:p

Then you also could figure out how to shift gears.



You are gonna use your buggy off-road I think? Then I don't really know of that air filters are good enough to hold all the sand and debris out of your engine.. it look to me that they won't be good enough :o


Thanks for all the photo's and video, I love them! Haven't seen them on your Facebook account?!

Erwin

Hey Erwin.. Firstly thanks for your kind words:)

Yeah! i have disassembled the bike, so driving it is not an option! i have been driving cars for more than 3 years, so i know how to control well the clutch and gas!

I will be using it off road, but not really hard off road! I will be driving it in the mountains in hunting trails! i do not think i will have problem with the air filters!

I have not upload any photos in my facebook account in the last month, maybe this weekend i will add some :p

tbwcurtis
10-19-2012, 09:12 AM
You can use solidworks' program along with a sprocket guide to design the sprocket. I will check to see how many teeth were on mine. and send you the file (if I still have it)

tbwcurtis
10-19-2012, 09:18 AM
My suggestion with sprockets is to have them profesionaly made so that the teeth are smooth etc... When laser cutting (in my opinion, others with more experience may beg to differ as I have only had 2 sprockets cut in the past) the profile is not perfectly smooth and the material can warp. I used 430 stainless and had to machine almost 1 mm to ensure the sprocket was even and flat. I would suggest water jet cutting to ensure zero warping for a roughed out cut and then have the sprocket ground and or machined by a gear specialist. Any way this is just my opinion and may not be 100%. My sprocket was 57 tooth so may not help. Send me your mounting profile and a general design and I will see what I can do. Cheers

tbwcurtis
10-19-2012, 09:22 AM
Pic of my sprocket, a but plain, but light enough.

gvouvakos
10-19-2012, 09:57 AM
Yesterday, i got the motor in its place and i will not need a 60 tooth sprocket because, i don't have space for the chain to go directly to the drive sprocket, i have to use a jack shaft! so i was thinking to use the bike's sprocket on the jack shaft which has 38 tooth, and then run a 2 to 1 reduction, for good acceleration!

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0530.jpg

gvouvakos
10-20-2012, 09:53 AM
Finally mounted the motor in it's place! but i need to add some diagonal reinforcement! I hope by Monday to have the rear upright plates and a arm mounts from the laser-cut company so i can assemble the rear!

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0532.jpg

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0534.jpg

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0533.jpg

Chikin
10-20-2012, 10:10 AM
I would add some bracing to those mounts. Like on the bottom pic. Tie the middle mount into the tall motor mount. And on that same pic tie the left side of the motor mount to the frame.
Maybe one cross brace so it won't pull the motor from one side to another. Only a couple of small adds but also it's insurance too (should only add 2 pounds if that)

gvouvakos
10-20-2012, 10:37 AM
I would add some bracing to those mounts. Like on the bottom pic. Tie the middle mount into the tall motor mount. And on that same pic tie the left side of the motor mount to the frame.
Maybe one cross brace so it won't pull the motor from one side to another. Only a couple of small adds but also it's insurance too (should only add 2 pounds if that)

This is exactly what i had in mind! next thing to do in the next 1-2 days!

Chikin
10-20-2012, 04:01 PM
Awesome.

gvouvakos
10-23-2012, 11:26 AM
Updaaaaaaate [smilie=ecstatic.gi:[smilie=ecstatic.gi:
Rear arms and uprights are in place
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0544.jpg

My center carrier
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0537.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0541.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0545.jpg

and bearings for my uprights!
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0539.jpg

and ordered 50 metres of wires and a bunch of connectors, so i can start working on the engines electronics :)

ironknot
10-23-2012, 04:54 PM
Clean metal will make clean welds. Not a welder myself but the fabrication forums repeat this message a lot, so I'm passing it on.

vegasloki
10-23-2012, 11:30 PM
Clean metal will make clean welds. Not a welder myself but the fabrication forums repeat this message a lot, so I'm passing it on.

There is quite a bit of contamination in those welds. There is a great deal of spatter and porosity which means the material could be cleaner and the welder settings might not be optimal. I clean my material with either a flap wheel or wire wheel then give it a quick wipe with acetone. Some processes like flux core and stick are more forgiving to dirty material but there is a lot more slag and clean up involved.

Love the build, you're making great progress. I bought a set of plans to build my wife a Sabretooth. Have the material in stock but between my road race car and some builds coming up for next season, I may not get to it for a while. [smilie=ecstatic.gi:

gvouvakos
10-24-2012, 05:23 AM
I am using an arc welder ;) and i have read that there is no problem welding dirty surfaces with an electrode welder !!

ErwinBnl
10-25-2012, 04:13 AM
How are you planning to drive your rear axle with your engine on top of your setup?!

The out-sprocket of the engine is above your left drive axle, your rear sprocket will be placed under the engine?

Also, your small engine-sprocket is mostly build in the carter so the chain can only run to the back of the motorbike.
Can you make a photo of that side of your engine?

gvouvakos
10-25-2012, 06:51 AM
Erwin, i will use a jackshaft in the rear and the then run a chain diagonally beneath the engine! i will use the bikes sprocket on the jack shaft and then run 2:1 reduction to the final sprocket

gvouvakos
10-25-2012, 10:43 AM
Now i need some serious help.. today i assemble the driveline and came across a problem.. the pivot point of the u-joint is not at the same pivot line of the arms and at some point it hits my lower a arm! as shown in the pics.. i couldn't get the ppivot point of the u-joints closer, because they wouldn't fit in the upright.. also i realised that the rear wheelbase is 6-7" shorter than the front :mad:

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0550.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0552.jpg


Maybe extending this as shown??
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0552-1.jpg

tbwcurtis
10-25-2012, 11:21 AM
Hey, that really is irritating. How about using the edge bottom upright mounting. The use two heim joints that bolt on to the outside of the upright and not the inside. You could then use the same uprights. Whilst you are changing the a-arms, make the track the same width as the front, if your shafts can handle the increased width. Is your camber on your hub correct? I am no expert, but you seem to be running huge positive camber at full droop. Maybe the experienced builders can comment. Cheers.

Deranged
10-25-2012, 06:52 PM
Hmm, the first thing that I can think of would be to re build your lower arms. When re building them, but a slight bend on the arms, near the problem area. I can't do an illustration on my iPad.

Justin.

gvouvakos
10-30-2012, 12:27 PM
Hey guys! It's time to post some updates! In the last 3-4 i was busy with my wiring harnes! extended lot's and lot's of wires. About the problem with the axle hitting my arm, i have decided to modify my lower arms to accept double heim joints, as tbwcurtis suggested. i have checked the distance and the axle should not hit the arms!! i will make new longer upper arms!

however i need help with my sprocket ratio! the output sprocket on the engine is 16 tooth and the drive sprocket 39 tooth! i will use the drive sprocket on the jack shaft! and the i want to know what ratio to run from the jack shaft to my center carrier! i want high torque and top speed around 100kmh (60 miles per hour). Please help

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0553.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0554.jpg

Clutch master cylinder in place
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0556.jpg

and got the radiator mounted
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0558.jpg

gvouvakos
11-09-2012, 08:30 AM
Today, i have finished with the water lines (with only a few leaks), mounted the gas tank and started the engine!!! there was no silencer on the exhaust so it was very loud! but the revolution counter did not work! i will check the connection on the wires tomorrow and i hope to find the problem easily

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-11-03121034.jpg

Chikin
11-09-2012, 11:09 AM
It's looking good man.

ironknot
11-09-2012, 09:33 PM
Wow Gvouvakos your not wasting any time this build its really moving, well done and congratulations on getting the engine fired and running ok. I reckon threaded extensions to the rear, lower a-arm are a good idea.

gvouvakos
11-10-2012, 03:43 AM
thanks for the kind words! my deadline for the first test drive is 20th of december :D

Anw, I bought rod ends to use on the lower a arms to clear the arms from the axle and also be able to adjust the camber! I hope to have the rear arms finished today. send the files of the sprockets, rear brake disc and wheel hubs to the company to cut the plates using the laser cutter!

gvouvakos
11-10-2012, 09:15 AM
Second trial of the rear suspension
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0568.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0569.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/th_SAM_0570.jpg (http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0570.mp4)

daaboots
11-11-2012, 06:00 PM
Great looking build. Hope you get the rear drive sorted out.

gvouvakos
11-12-2012, 05:22 AM
Great looking build. Hope you get the rear drive sorted out.

Thank you! :) i am still waiting for the quotation for the flanges and sprockets! today i will finish the right side of the suspension and driveline! and then buy my shocks!

Here are my calculations for the cost of the shocks

purchase of 4 fox 2.0 air shocks is 840 dollars.
shipping to Cyprus is 150 dollars

Total: 990 dollars

then i have to pay 17% VAT and 3-4 % import tax

Total 1200 dollars converted to euros with the paypal exchange rate is A THOUSAND EUROS :mad: damn it

gvouvakos
11-12-2012, 09:07 AM
Finished the shock mounts! the upper mount needs reinforcement!.. will continue tomorrow!

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-11-12175128.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-11-12175118.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-11-12175043.jpg

gvouvakos
11-14-2012, 09:56 AM
A short video of the engine running :)
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/th_SAM_0576.jpg (http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0576.mp4)

monkeyinfantry
11-15-2012, 10:18 AM
It lives! Sounds great, keep'm coming

Chikin
11-16-2012, 05:19 PM
The conversion from euros to dollars suck. But I will say this. It cost to play. And we'll it will be worth it in the long run.

gvouvakos
11-17-2012, 03:03 AM
It lives! Sounds great, keep'm coming

thank you! it sounds very loud because there are a few holes in my exhaust system ;)

gvouvakos
11-17-2012, 03:05 AM
The conversion from euros to dollars suck. But I will say this. It cost to play. And we'll it will be worth it in the long run.

yeah! i know that fox worth every penny! it's not only the exchange rate but the VAT tax and import tax :mad:

Chikin
11-17-2012, 04:06 PM
Sounds like what's happening here in America. We're raising taxes at a huge rate and well it's not the "land of the free".
I feel your pain.

gvouvakos
11-18-2012, 07:17 AM
Few better quality pics of the rear
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0571.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0572.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0574.jpg

and a picture of my welds!! i am using an old school arc welder
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0573.jpg

all the electric components are in a plastic box including ignitor, fuses etc
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0577.jpg

and also the battery is in position..
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0578.jpg

i hope tomorrow to get my rear hubs/ flanges, and have a roller with no shocks ;)

gvouvakos
11-19-2012, 12:09 PM
Today, i finally ordered my air shocks from down south motorsports! they have great customer service. He told me that the shocks will be shipped without nitrogen.. what kind of shop should i search locally to have them filled with nitrogen?

Chikin
11-19-2012, 12:27 PM
Wow good question. I know where Cyprus is on the map. Yet I have no clue of what kind of shops they have there. Do you have any .... Well wait let me say this.

Auto shops use nitrogen in tires here. And we'll that's great in all but the pressure needs to be way more than a car tire.
Ahhhh is there any auto shops or off road shops anywhere over there.
I know it sounds dumb but your a world away and I don't know much about that island call Cyprus.
Google maps shows awesome street views.

Here is another difference with the USA. We have them all over the place and well it's for us. Which one do we want to go to.

Do they have some thing for like lifted 4x4 vehicles??? (Or a shop for that type of vehicles)

ttginc
11-19-2012, 12:39 PM
Today, i finally ordered my air shocks from down south motorsports! they have great customer service. He told me that the shocks will be shipped without nitrogen.. what kind of shop should i search locally to have them filled with nitrogen?

It doesn't have to be nitrogen... Argon or any other dry inert gases work just as well. Since I already had an argon welding tank for aluminum I added a pressure gauge and filled my shocks with it. They work just fine. You might want to make your own shock filling setup in order to adjust your shocks as needed without having to visit a shop each time.

I've also had my shocks filled with Nitrogen at a welding supply shop or an industrial gas bottle distributor.

gvouvakos
11-19-2012, 12:39 PM
Hmm. there is a shop specialised in offroad vehicles a few miles away. they were going to order the shocks for me, but i have decided to import them myself from the US and save 150 dollars, which was their commision! i will contact them and i hope they will be able to charge up my shocks, with a small amount of money!

There is also a shop nearby which is a dealer of monroe shocks.. do you think they will have the equipment?

gvouvakos
11-19-2012, 12:41 PM
It doesn't have to be nitrogen... Argon or any other dry inert gases work just as well. Since I already had an argon welding tank for aluminum I added a pressure gauge and filled my shocks with it. They work just fine. You might want to make your own shock filling setup in order to adjust your shocks as needed without having to visit a shop each time.

I've also had my shocks filled with Nitrogen at a welding supply shop or an industrial gas bottle distributor.

Thank you ttginc.. my uncle has an argon bottle, which he used for welding aluminum.. what type of fitting is on the fox shocks?

ttginc
11-19-2012, 12:52 PM
I believe most shocks use a Schrader valve which is standard on most car tires. I bought a pressure regulator that adjusts between 100-700 psi, a 3000psi burst rating grease whip hose for high pressure grease guns, and the fittings and adapters to hook them all together. Its best to get a specialized no-loss air chuck that prevents any pressure drop when connecting and disconnecting the fill hose.

Chikin
11-19-2012, 12:52 PM
Hmm. there is a shop specialised in offroad vehicles a few miles away. they were going to order the shocks for me, but i have decided to import them myself from the US and save 150 dollars, which was their commision! i will contact them and i hope they will be able to charge up my shocks, with a small amount of money!

There is also a shop nearby which is a dealer of monroe shocks.. do you think they will have the equipment?

Well wait. Since they know you now. And you didn't buy. They will fill them for 150 bucks. Ha

gvouvakos
11-19-2012, 01:01 PM
Well wait. Since they know you now. And you didn't buy. They will fill them for 150 bucks. Ha

Didn't thing about that! i have contact them by email a few months back.. i do not think they will remember.. no wait, i do not think there are a lot of people in my country buying such shocks.

Anw, when i get the shocks i will look around for a place to fill them up.

thanks

Chikin
11-19-2012, 01:08 PM
Man that's right. Couldn't be a lot of buggies there.
Could do the build it your self tank and fill valve.

Hey does any one have the link for the do it your self recharge kit???

gvouvakos
11-19-2012, 01:11 PM
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/suspension-wheels-tires/13978-portible-air-shock-fill-tool.html

gvouvakos
11-20-2012, 11:43 AM
Finally, sprockets, rear brake disc and the wheel hubs!

And i have a serious problem.. i tried to weld the flanges on my 1 3/8 pto shaft, they weld normally together but if I add a small force the weld breaks.. i don't know what is the material of my shafts.
Please HELP
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0580.jpg

gvouvakos
11-27-2012, 10:23 AM
Some update


connected the throttle cable, so the throttle pedal is working
bought a 530 chain, but it is not heavy duty so i have decided to use double (2 single chains parallel) from the jackshaft to the live axle!
tried to weld the splined shaft on my flanges with 316 mig wire, but with no success. So i will go to the lathe shop, and make splined on steel shafts.
bought a balance bar to use on my brake pedal

More to come


My goal is to have my first test drive before Christmas

Chikin
11-27-2012, 10:25 AM
Xmas videos are great. I will have to get one too by Xmas.

gvouvakos
11-27-2012, 10:47 AM
Xmas videos are great. I will have to get one too by Xmas.

Don't worry! you will have one

gvouvakos
11-29-2012, 11:33 AM
The last update from the track code of my shocks shows that they are still in Los Angeles :mad:
However, I have started fabricating my gear shifter and bought a car shifter cable to use! Installed the brake balance bar but i have to buy a 3/4 master cylinder for the front brakes.

Pictures will follow by tomorrow:)

gvouvakos
12-01-2012, 08:35 AM
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0707.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0709.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0710.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0711.jpg

Pstegs 101
12-01-2012, 03:33 PM
looks good keep it up!!! :)

gvouvakos
12-02-2012, 01:43 AM
looks good keep it up!!! :)

thank you :)

gvouvakos
12-02-2012, 01:57 AM
I am now designing my dash board to send it for laser cutting.. and i have a question!

what do you use for a speedometer?? the bikes speedometer is not electronic, it is mechanical with a "wire" going to the front wheel. No way i will get it working on my buggy.. (gps speedometer is not an option).. i need to draw the hole on the dashboard

that stupid tracking code of my shocks, has not been updated for more than a week :mad:

Chikin
12-02-2012, 03:00 PM
Tracking numbers suck when your waiting for them. I would make a call tomorrow and make some thing happen.

gvouvakos
12-03-2012, 08:14 AM
box full of stuff :D got my sprockets machined, the hubs welded and 35mm axle for the jack shaft
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0712.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0713.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0721.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0722.jpg

gvouvakos
12-04-2012, 10:39 AM
And it's a roller! tomorrow i hope to get some photos of it rolling down the street

Work to be done!


attach the jack shaft, weld the sprockets on the jackshaft, run the chains.
attach rear brake disc and calipers
hydraulic clutch and brake pipes/hoses
get my dash board laser cut and installed
fill the shocks with nitrogen and attach them
and lastly buy another seat for the passenger, and a pair of safety belts

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0723.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0724.jpg


lower shock nounts
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0725.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0726.jpg

gvouvakos
12-08-2012, 07:46 AM
It's getting closer
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0752.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0755.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0759.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0762.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0764.jpg

Chikin
12-08-2012, 08:31 PM
Hey can I make a suggestion that make hinder the test drive.
On the lower rear arm you have the tubes cut and angled for the rear to have clearance.
Ok well it just looks a little bit weird since you have the butt welded and the angle looks weird(hey weird works) but I would have tried to either sleeve the tube. Or replace it with new ones. Here is why I say this.

If there is any pressure on those tubes. They could bend and well take out the drive axles. Maybe you could make a cross support on the lower arms too.
Would hate to read how it bent due to the cut/welded to make it work.

Looks good and I want to see it work. But those axles are not easy to come by. And cost a bit of coin too. Not to mention the import fee and time.

Just looking out to help in the "long run"

gvouvakos
12-09-2012, 01:30 AM
Hey can I make a suggestion that make hinder the test drive.
On the lower rear arm you have the tubes cut and angled for the rear to have clearance.
Ok well it just looks a little bit weird since you have the butt welded and the angle looks weird(hey weird works) but I would have tried to either sleeve the tube. Or replace it with new ones. Here is why I say this.

If there is any pressure on those tubes. They could bend and well take out the drive axles. Maybe you could make a cross support on the lower arms too.
Would hate to read how it bent due to the cut/welded to make it work.

Looks good and I want to see it work. But those axles are not easy to come by. And cost a bit of coin too. Not to mention the import fee and time.

Just looking out to help in the "long run"

Hey Chickin.. My uncle which is working with metals came by my house yesterday to see the progress, and he told me the same thing about the lower rear arm.. i will reinforce it with a cross support:)

Chikin
12-09-2012, 11:10 AM
Cool. Yeah I like the progress.

And it's cool how it looks like the Florida USA in that photo.

gvouvakos
12-09-2012, 01:28 PM
Cool. Yeah I like the progress.

And it's cool how it looks like the Florida USA in that photo.

My neighborhood looks like Florida?? nice :)

Chikin
12-09-2012, 01:35 PM
Yeah. Go on google maps. Zoom in to Florida like on the coastal city's.
then click street view icon and look.

gvouvakos
12-10-2012, 07:05 AM
Hmm.. you are right chikin

anw.. tomorrow i will go pick up the shocks from the post office! bought brake hoses for the front brake clutch and rear calipers!

gvouvakos
12-11-2012, 07:21 AM
FINALLY :D :D:D

however i need to to reconstruct the front shock mounts

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0766.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0767.jpg

gvouvakos
12-11-2012, 09:56 AM
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0773.jpg

Chikin
12-11-2012, 10:17 AM
Yu have been waiting a long time for this. Glad you finally got them.

ErwinBnl
12-12-2012, 03:29 PM
Yeah!! Looks great! [smilie=ecstatic.gi:

Is it possible to fully compress the rear shock without problems with your driveline, ground clearance etc?

I just send you some photo's from my front lower A-arms like you requested :)

Keep it going!!

Trouble675
12-12-2012, 04:15 PM
Are you planning on running more support up off of the lower tube?

gvouvakos
12-13-2012, 09:02 AM
Yeah!! Looks great! [smilie=ecstatic.gi:

Is it possible to fully compress the rear shock without problems with your driveline, ground clearance etc?

I just send you some photo's from my front lower A-arms like you requested :)

Keep it going!!

Thank you Erwin.. Yeah, i don't think there will be any problem at full compression but i will check it for sure!

Btw thanks for the photo :)

gvouvakos
12-13-2012, 09:04 AM
Are you planning on running more support up off of the lower tube?

Which tube are you talking about?

Trouble675
12-13-2012, 04:10 PM
Which tube are you talking about?

The part of the lower loop that is there about in the middle of the shock. I would come up to the top shock mount with a couple of tubes to make a shock tower. Maybe you were gonna do that anyway. I was just asking cuz I sure wouldn't think it would hold the way it is.

gvouvakos
12-14-2012, 05:04 AM
The part of the lower loop that is there about in the middle of the shock. I would come up to the top shock mount with a couple of tubes to make a shock tower. Maybe you were gonna do that anyway. I was just asking cuz I sure wouldn't think it would hold the way it is.

More support will be added in the next days !

gvouvakos
12-15-2012, 08:43 AM
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0775_zps70a335f8.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0777_zps225d72db.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0774_zpsa4f95924.jpg

fabdaddy55
12-15-2012, 12:27 PM
Hello G V Ive been watching your build since the begining and truely admire your resorcefulness and while your choice of drivetrain, jackshaft and pillowblock bearings look like they will be adequate your choice of mild steel flat bar in all your load bearing applications IMO will not hold up to the tremendous forces created by the motor and the torque created by the jackshaft.It will bend that flat bar unless you brace the crap out of it, .Im not trying to be the turd in the punchbowl Im just concerned

gvouvakos
12-16-2012, 02:27 AM
Hello G V Ive been watching your build since the begining and truely admire your resorcefulness and while your choice of drivetrain, jackshaft and pillowblock bearings look like they will be adequate your choice of mild steel flat bar in all your load bearing applications IMO will not hold up to the tremendous forces created by the motor and the torque created by the jackshaft.It will bend that flat bar unless you brace the crap out of it, .Im not trying to be the turd in the punchbowl Im just concerned

No problem! you are not the only one that told me about those flat bars, and I forgot to mention above that it is not finished.. I will add a lot of cross support so that the motor will not pull the jack shaft inwards. Likewise I will also add crossbars to the motor mounts, lower rear a-arms and rear shock mounts! It is just a matter of time

Btw thanks for your kind words about my build.. I really appreciate it :D

gvouvakos
12-17-2012, 11:57 AM
Got my dashboard freshly cut from the lasershop! i will install it tomorrow and connect all wires, switches and hazard lights.

Went over all of my welds, with my uncles mig welder.. It's a kemppi pro welder.. just love it

Reinforced lower arms and the jackshaft mounts!

I have visited 3-4 shops to have my shocks filled with nitrogen but with no success :mad: there is only one shop in the town nearby that has the equipment, i will visit them this week.

Pictures will follow tomorrow:)

gvouvakos
12-19-2012, 05:28 AM
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0779_zps97a6e5de.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0780_zps97704c4f.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0786_zps8f71557f.jpg

Pstegs 101
12-19-2012, 06:20 AM
looks good wheres your rev bar???:):):):)

gvouvakos
12-19-2012, 07:58 AM
looks good wheres your rev bar???:):):):)

I don't understant what you mean ;) English is not my mother language :p

custom39
12-19-2012, 08:25 AM
Rev bar is another term for tachometer (RPM)

Look good, like the cut in labels!

gvouvakos
12-19-2012, 10:02 AM
Thank you custom! The gauge on the right of the steering wheel is the tachometer.. 2nd picture :D

Trouble675
12-19-2012, 10:27 AM
[smilie=thumbs_up.g: Looking good, man!

gvouvakos
12-19-2012, 10:58 AM
[smilie=thumbs_up.g: Looking good, man!

thank you :D

gvouvakos
12-19-2012, 01:08 PM
I have been researching for a place to have my fox filled with nitrogen ;) with no success.. I have contacted the guy in the nearby town and he was surprised when i told him that i want 400 psi pressure.. His equipment can only be used with 200 psi

And i was thinking

I can get a bottle filled with nitrogen for 25 dollars, my uncle has 4-5 welding bottle regulators (can i use such regulators?)

the no loss fill chuck is around 40 dollars shipped to cyprus form us!

the problem is putting everything together because it is difficult to get the right fittings in my country ;)

ErwinBnl
12-19-2012, 04:16 PM
I have the same issue.. I haven't really searched for a filler yet, but have pulled some lines and asked here and there.. also without succes.

Here in Europe we don't have such a off-road community and businesses.
In the beginning, I will use the standard 50psi that's in the shock from factory. During my build I will fill them, first I want the rear shocks in place.

Chikin
12-19-2012, 05:02 PM
How did custom39 know that. .... Ah dang I learned some thing new today

gvouvakos
12-20-2012, 09:26 AM
Found a shop 60 miles away that can charge the shocks up to what ever pressure i want :) I will visit them tomorrow.

I will try 410 psi rear and 340 front. And i hope i will not have to visit the shop twice!

Pstegs 101
12-20-2012, 02:10 PM
good for you you must be pumped!!!:):):);)

Chikin
12-20-2012, 03:24 PM
Found a shop 60 miles away that can charge the shocks up to what ever pressure i want :) I will visit them tomorrow.

I will try 380 psi rear and 320 front. And i hope i will not have to visit the shop twice!

Yeah that's the issue with not having your own pressure gauge and tank. I can bet you will have to go back a few times. So figure out the cost of gasoline and time vs owning and using your own fill system.

I live 12 miles one way to a shop and had to go change springs on my car 3 times already.
Guessing the psi will only cost you in the end.

gvouvakos
12-21-2012, 12:53 AM
Yeah that's the issue with not having your own pressure gauge and tank. I can bet you will have to go back a few times. So figure out the cost of gasoline and time vs owning and using your own fill system.

I live 12 miles one way to a shop and had to go change springs on my car 3 times already.
Guessing the psi will only cost you in the end.

I have my fingers crossed! and i have combined the visit to that town, to do other things also

and also Bruce suggests that it's approx 400-420 psi rear & 300-350 psi front. since i am using heavier pipes but will not be doing any jumps i have decided to use 410 rear and 340 front.. it should get me very close

fabdaddy55
12-21-2012, 10:24 AM
I did the same thing and it was very close. What a good feeling to finally get your buggy standing on its own 4 legs lol. Cant wait to see it moving under its own power. good luck:)

gvouvakos
12-21-2012, 10:27 AM
I did the same thing and it was very close. What a good feeling to finally get your buggy standing on its own 4 legs lol. Cant wait to see it moving under its own power. good luck:)

Thank you :)

Deranged
12-21-2012, 03:27 PM
good for you you must be pumped!!!:):):);)


Nope, i bet his shocks are pumped......up[smilie=non_banana2:

gvouvakos
12-22-2012, 03:55 AM
Nope, i bet his shocks are pumped......up[smilie=non_banana2:
I don't actually understand what pumped up means but it sounds funny :p

Chikin
12-22-2012, 06:08 AM
I will help translate the term.

When we fill up tires with air. We have small hand pumps that we use to fill them if we don't have air compressors. Hence the term "pump it up".

http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu148/Greenoctober2929/bicycle_pump.jpg


Some times we forget about the translation to other countries.
To me it's weird that this site is world wide.
I will end this like the Aussies.

Cheers! Ha

Pstegs 101
12-22-2012, 07:34 AM
also it could mean happy or excited

GateKeeper
12-22-2012, 07:55 AM
The worlds best was to define "pumped" thanks to you tube
Kid Really Pumped To Be In Mini Bike Race - YouTube (http://youtu.be/eCbNtwCj2rE)

Trouble675
12-22-2012, 07:29 PM
I don't actually understand what pumped up means but it sounds funny :p

Maybe this will help..... [smilie=rockout3.gi:[smilie=rockout3.gi:[smilie=rockout3.gi:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opIL3Yt0Un8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

gvouvakos
12-23-2012, 03:09 AM
Now i understand :D

Pstegs 101
12-23-2012, 07:47 AM
good:):)

gvouvakos
12-23-2012, 10:48 AM
Anw, weekends progress. Finished the front shock mounts, and mounted all 4 shocks

the front nitrogen pressure is a bit low.. and the rear is too high. so i have decides to make my own filling system since i have a bottle. however i need to find a regulator that has high output pressure (i have an oxygen regulator that goes up to 250 but i need to find one that goes up to 400 psi), a high pressure hose and a fill chuck

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2012-12-24140341_zps874429e9.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2005-01-01033920_zps4242c8be.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/2005-01-01033911_zps25ad6391.jpg

stupid phone camera, sorry for bad quality pics

Chikin
12-23-2012, 11:58 AM
I hate to say it. But I called it on the need your own fill up tank and regulator. It will always be cheaper in the long run. But hey it looks like it's coming along great. Shouldn't be much longer for some driving.

Hey I need a nitro tank and fill valve too. So we're in the same boat there.

gvouvakos
12-23-2012, 12:02 PM
i have a couple of welding tanks, so the cost for the nitrogen is only 20 euros.. the costly will be the regulator that can have a high pressure out and it seems difficult to find one.. especially in my country

custom39
12-23-2012, 12:58 PM
Here is a link for a fill tool... you can get a small tank from a welding supply house.
mine is a 20lbs tank

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails4.asp?utm_expid=10520551-6&RecID=7116&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Furl%3Fs a%3Dt%26rct%3Dj%26q%3Dshock%2520filling%2520tool%2 520nitrogen%2520pegasus%26source%3Dweb%26cd%3D2%26 sqi%3D2%26ved%3D0CDYQFjAB%26url%3Dhttps%253A%252F% 252Fwww.pegasusautoracing.com%252Fproductdetails.a sp%253FRecID%253D7116%26ei%3Dp2DXUPHTO5KJ2AXv5oCQB A%26usg%3DAFQjCNESn0O4pyOhYLJwGVDKSzAYFaaoYw

gvouvakos
12-23-2012, 01:01 PM
Here is a link for a fill tool... you can get a small tank from a welding supply house.
mine is a 20lbs tank

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails4.asp?utm_expid=10520551-6&RecID=7116&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Furl%3Fs a%3Dt%26rct%3Dj%26q%3Dshock%2520filling%2520tool%2 520nitrogen%2520pegasus%26source%3Dweb%26cd%3D2%26 sqi%3D2%26ved%3D0CDYQFjAB%26url%3Dhttps%253A%252F% 252Fwww.pegasusautoracing.com%252Fproductdetails.a sp%253FRecID%253D7116%26ei%3Dp2DXUPHTO5KJ2AXv5oCQB A%26usg%3DAFQjCNESn0O4pyOhYLJwGVDKSzAYFaaoYw

this reads up to 300.. my rear shocks need 400

custom39
12-23-2012, 01:04 PM
here is a assy for your tank

Nitrogen Regulator King Fox Air Shock Regulator Race Shock Fill Tool Shocks | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-regulator-king-fox-air-shock-regulator-race-shock-fill-tool-shocks-/150960496949#vi-content)

gvouvakos
12-23-2012, 01:09 PM
here is a assy for your tank

Nitrogen Regulator King Fox Air Shock Regulator Race Shock Fill Tool Shocks | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-regulator-king-fox-air-shock-regulator-race-shock-fill-tool-shocks-/150960496949#vi-content)

Yeah, i have seen that.. i will firstly check locally for a regulator. i think i will be able to make a fill kit for much less myself. btw thanks :)

Chikin
12-23-2012, 02:22 PM
Custom39. Yeah I might just buy it myself.

gvouvakos
12-24-2012, 09:56 AM
some higher quality pics of the front
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0789_zpsf15200a6.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0788_zpsf7594fd7.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0787_zps8c10f46f.jpg

ErwinBnl
12-25-2012, 10:43 AM
Are they under pressure now? How does the rear look?

Do you have working brakes on your buggy? Otherwise, pull your buggy with a car throught a bumpy (sand)road and look how your shocks are holding.. are they to stiff or to soft?

I'm gonna do that with my buggy when I have a rolling chassis with brakes and shocks :cool:

gvouvakos
12-25-2012, 10:50 AM
Are they under pressure now? How does the rear look?

Do you have working brakes on your buggy? Otherwise, pull your buggy with a car throught a bumpy (sand)road and look how your shocks are holding.. are they to stiff or to soft?

I'm gonna do that with my buggy when I have a rolling chassis with brakes and shocks :cool:

Yes they have pressure now.. If you go 1-2 pages back you will find a picture of the rear.

I have to buy some copper/bronze lines to have working brakes and another 3/4 master cylinder for the front brakes

The front shocks are a bit soft but the rear are too stiff.. i have to adjust the nitrogen pressure

I am hoping for a test drive at the beginning of 2013

Gotted
12-25-2012, 11:06 AM
Is that galvanized pipe you welded on there?

gvouvakos
12-25-2012, 11:17 AM
Is that galvanized pipe you welded on there?


Yes, run out of black varnished pipe..

Gotted
12-25-2012, 03:52 PM
You already know that galvanized pipe is brittle and puts out dangerous fumes while welding.
My neighbor a fence builder ended up in the hospital from the fumes from welding galvanized pipe. Be carful.

gvouvakos
12-26-2012, 02:44 AM
You already know that galvanized pipe is brittle and puts out dangerous fumes while welding.
My neighbor a fence builder ended up in the hospital from the fumes from welding galvanized pipe. Be carful.

hmm.. the work shop that i am working in has good air ventilation and i won't be welding any more galvanised steel.. but thanks you very much for the warning, i will have it in mind

gvouvakos
12-27-2012, 11:20 AM
Today i placed my order for the complete kit (regulator, hose and chuck) that custom39 suggested above.

But i have a question.. will the fitting on the regulator fit European type bottles? or is it standard ;)

custom39
12-27-2012, 11:27 AM
Today i placed my order for the complete kit (regulator, hose and chuck) that custom39 suggested above.

But i have a question.. will the fitting on the regulator fit European type bottles? or is it standard ;)

I am not sure on that...I think it is a standard fitting (I have scuba dived all over and those tanks seem to be standard...

here is a link that may have the info you need...

Gas cylinder - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_cylinder)

gvouvakos
12-27-2012, 11:39 AM
i have contacted the seller, he says that he has sold a lot of such kits to uk, and none had complains of not fitting the bottle. he told me that the fitting is CGA580! i have a variety of bottles like oxygen, argon-carbon dioxide bottles and the fitting looks the same as the picture of a cga580 fitting, but i have no idea about the threads.. as soon as i get it i will test fit it on my bottles and if it doesn't matches, i will visit the gas supplier and find me a bottle with the right fitting or an adapter!

the cost of nitrogen is around 25 dollars if you have a bottle :)

Pstegs 101
12-29-2012, 07:32 AM
can wait to see it on it own legs ;);) you worked hard at this for a while

gvouvakos
12-29-2012, 08:22 AM
can wait to see it on it own legs ;);) you worked hard at this for a while

It was sitting on it's legs a few days ago, but it was leaning to the front due to high nitrogen pressure in the rear shocks.

The fitting of the regulator is not the same as the regulators in our country, but my uncle said there must be an adapter. As soon as i get it, i will go to a few shops and see what to do

gvouvakos
12-29-2012, 09:31 AM
The rear is DONE and rolling

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0790_zps437bb6b6.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0791_zps2bb3508d.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0792_zpsea4a3135.jpg

And a video of the wheels turning. ( the exhausts are not fixed to the frame yet that's why they are at different heights)
http://s1241.beta.photobucket.com/user/gvouvakos/media/SAM_0793_zps1da61633.mp4.html
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/th_SAM_0793_zps1da61633.jpg (http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0793_zps1da61633.mp4)

fabdaddy55
12-29-2012, 09:56 AM
what will you do about the chain going under that motormount pipe
some kind of idler sprocket???

custom39
12-29-2012, 10:15 AM
looking good! I bet you are happy to see it running!

gvouvakos
12-29-2012, 10:19 AM
what will you do about the chain going under that motormount pipe
some kind of idler sprocket???

The pipe is not a motormount.. it's a roller (pipe with bearings on 1/2" axle) that prevents the chain from hitting the motor

gvouvakos
12-29-2012, 10:20 AM
looking good! I bet you are happy to see it running!

thank you.. i am very excited :D can't wait to take it for a ride :)

Pstegs 101
12-29-2012, 10:41 AM
looks good!!!!

gvouvakos
12-29-2012, 10:44 AM
looks good!!!!

Thank you :)

fabdaddy55
12-29-2012, 03:05 PM
G V you may see sparks and chain/roller wear with metal to metal
contact. I would recomend a sprocket there instead,even though its on the slack side under power, and when you down shift to slow down that will be the load side. I M O that needs some more thought.
getting close though glad to hear you will have your own nitro fill kit soon . Its nice to be able to dial in your own pressures.

Trouble675
12-29-2012, 05:08 PM
G V you may see sparks and chain/roller wear with metal to metal
contact. I would recomend a sprocket there instead,even though its on the slack side under power, and when you down shift to slow down that will be the load side. I M O that needs some more thought.
getting close though glad to hear you will have your own nitro fill kit soon . Its nice to be able to dial in your own pressures.

Agreed! That will eat your chain in no time. I hope you will consider an idler sprocket.

fabdaddy55
12-29-2012, 07:17 PM
from the pics I see maybe you could drop the jackshaft down so the chain will clear the motor casing. Cant see real good in that pic if the sprocket will hit the down tube if you try to lower it but it might be an easy fix.

gvouvakos
12-30-2012, 02:33 AM
lowering the jack shaft is not an option because then the chain from the motor will hit the casing and the rear left engine mount

I really appreciate your comments

My uncle suggested instead of metal pipe, on the lathe make a Teflon roller, (i have 1 metre of Teflon left):) instead of an idler sprocket.

what do you think? i don't have enough space i think to use a sprocket

gvouvakos
12-30-2012, 12:28 PM
I have eventually bought a polyurethane chain roller to use instead of the metal pipe-roller

chrisMX-15
01-01-2013, 08:56 AM
Nice build!!!! I too am building the st3!! i definately would get rid of the pipe chain roller and go to sprocket for the idler or like said before lower the rear so the chain doesnt come in contact with motor, even the nylon roller will wear prematurely with a lot of constant contact. Keep up the good work

gvouvakos
01-01-2013, 11:23 AM
Nice build!!!! I too am building the st3!! i definately would get rid of the pipe chain roller and go to sprocket for the idler or like said before lower the rear so the chain doesnt come in contact with motor, even the nylon roller will wear prematurely with a lot of constant contact. Keep up the good work

Thank you chris.. i love the idea of the 4x4 like your build! i would like mine to be 4x4 but it would be difficult for me and costly

Lowering the rear would need lots an lots of modification and as i said above, even if the chain (that now hits the engine case) clears from the motor.. then the chain that runs from the motor sprocket will hit the motor casing and the rear left motor mount. i will try post a pic tomorrow

The polyurethane roller was 8-9 dollars, even if it wear out fast i can buy a replacement.
I will give it a try and see what's going to happen :)

chrisMX-15
01-05-2013, 06:17 PM
from looking at pics the easiest thing to do may be to rotate the motor up some make new motor mounts. may not take alot to make every thing clear. maybe just lift front of motor up couple degrees would help! thats where tack welding comes into play for trial fitting things. i see you welded it all solid. Trust me i learned the hard way and alot of others too lol

gvouvakos
01-06-2013, 02:40 AM
from looking at pics the easiest thing to do may be to rotate the motor up some make new motor mounts. may not take alot to make every thing clear. maybe just lift front of motor up couple degrees would help! thats where tack welding comes into play for trial fitting things. i see you welded it all solid. Trust me i learned the hard way and alot of others too lol

maybe in the future i will make it 4x4

I firstly tack weld everything and when i saw that it was ok i fully welded the motor mounts

Pstegs 101
01-06-2013, 07:10 AM
that would be cool :):):) Then you could go really off road ;););)

gvouvakos
01-06-2013, 07:13 AM
that would be cool :):):) Then you could go really off road ;););)

my next project will be a mini monster truck.. 4x4 with huge tires, fox coil overs

I have seen one nearby and i love it, i will try take a picture :)

chrisMX-15
01-06-2013, 08:16 PM
did you solcve the case hitting the chain issue?? i would unbolt the front motor mounts and loosen the rear and try to tilt the engine back some (lift the front of the motor) you may not need much for the chain to clear the case. then if that works just make longer fornt mounts.

gvouvakos
01-07-2013, 05:22 AM
did you solcve the case hitting the chain issue?? i would unbolt the front motor mounts and loosen the rear and try to tilt the engine back some (lift the front of the motor) you may not need much for the chain to clear the case. then if that works just make longer fornt mounts.

hmm.. never thought of trying this! i will try this today

Pstegs 101
01-07-2013, 06:27 AM
my next project will be a mini monster truck.. 4x4 with huge tires, fox coil overs

I have seen one nearby and i love it, i will try take a picture :)


that would be so cool u do it:):):):)

gvouvakos
01-07-2013, 08:20 AM
I tried to tilt the engine but it's not even close to getting clear from the casing, so i will stay with the polyurethane roller until i come up with something else

Today i have changed the engines sparks and the engine started straight away. Got the hydraulic clutch working, but i think i still have some bubbles in the hydraulics so please someone post a guide on how to bleed brakes in this case clutch properly. Also i have installed my turn signal lights

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0863_zps8d2f7626.jpg
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg507/gvouvakos/SAM_0864_zpsd94aa759.jpg

daaboots
01-14-2013, 08:49 AM
I'd just open up the bleader at the top and have someone pump the pedeal. Do that enough and you should get all the air out.

gvouvakos
01-14-2013, 09:03 AM
I'd just open up the bleader at the top and have someone pump the pedeal. Do that enough and you should get all the air out.

i have read in another post:
1) slowly push the pedal to the floor
2) another person open and immediately close the bleeder
3) depress the pedal slowly and repeat

and have a clear hose connected at the bleeder, and stop when there are no bubbles coming out of the bleeder (in the hose)

is this method better?

custom39
01-14-2013, 09:09 AM
i have read in another post:
1) slowly push the pedal to the floor
2) another person open and immediately close the bleeder
3) depress the pedal slowly and repeat

and have a clear hose connected at the bleeder, and stop when there are no bubbles coming out of the bleeder (in the hose)

is this method better?


yup...that will work!