View Full Version : Sii

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02-10-2012, 09:14 PM
36206Im building the SII with some modifications. I got a deal on a donor bike (GSXR 750) 9000 miles for 600 bucks. So here we are. Picked up the steel 2 weeks ago but I have been out of town for a week. All I can say is wow they dont make it easy to list all the different hardware and steel you need. I spent about 4 hours going over the plans making a list. Now that im a week into the build I would have change a few things with all the different sizes of tubing and flat steel. So far I have lengthened it a foot, and Im canning the jackshaft. There will be cv instead. Also gonna change up the roll cage give it some more rake, the original is rather boxy.


02-14-2012, 10:20 PM
having no luck posting pics of this thing. Update i have the rear trailing arms welded up, and the a-arms, also have the shock towers fabbed up. The frame is 99% welded. Im just putting the puzzle together I have all the pieces cut and labeled.


02-15-2012, 07:17 AM
I look forward to seeing your new SII design. I have really enjoyed mine. Although I currently have everything behind the big hoop cut off.

As for the pics. I gave up trying to post through the attachment tool of this forum. Just create a photobucket account and then all you have to do is paste the link right into your post. I know it is a pain to have to do that, but once you do it you won't regret it. We need pics to survive around here, so you gotta do it man!!!

02-19-2012, 02:22 PM
Well got the front end fabbed up and attached to the frame, welded up the seat belt tabs. Got the roll cage parts cut and a few of the bends done. waiting for the heims to show up. Trying to figure out what cv axles and hubs Im gonna go with. I did get a keyed 1 3/16" 4' axle for 3 dollars (score) This thing is lookin good. Trying to get the pics up now.

02-20-2012, 10:41 PM
Woot, got the pics resized:D

02-20-2012, 10:47 PM
I got the roll cage mocked up and tacked partially today. Also received my heims in the mail. Still trying to figure out what tie rod ends to go with. I did build the recommended spindles, so anyone who has built this thing could help me out with a suggestion.:cool:

02-25-2012, 11:02 PM
Picked up some Banshee front brakes rotors and master cylinder, the guy threw in the hubs cuz he didnt want to take em apart (40 bucks) Scored again:D Ill sale those hubs and prolly make my 40 bucks back. I dremeled the rotors to accept my hubs all I need to do is weld on some tabs to the hubs and bolt those suckers on. Had to move the hydraulic line on the caliper 180 degrees so it wouldnt hit my spindle and all is well.

Also got the S10 cv axles and hubs ordered today, they are on there way. The axles are rebuilt so price was 75.00 for left and right free shipping, the hubs were 27.00 each free shipping. Doing good so far on parts.[smilie=thumbs_up.g:

02-26-2012, 10:21 AM
some more pics of the extended frame

02-26-2012, 10:23 AM
and another

02-27-2012, 09:38 PM
OK I got the brake rotors mounted to the hubs today, and I also found home for my master cylinder, the front one anyways. I have another master cylinder for the rear brake ( that will be added later) also got the grease zerks installed on my hubs. I thought it would make it easier to grease em' that way heres the pics.

02-27-2012, 09:41 PM
a couple more pics. All I did was was make some tabs, drilled the mount holes measure tack. Then I spun it on the spindle to make sure the thing was straight, and then welded em up. turned out alright.

02-28-2012, 06:49 AM
Where exactly are you putting that front MC? How are you going to operate it? It looks like a hand operated bike MC. You are moving through this build pretty fast, keep it up.

02-29-2012, 09:22 AM
Master cylinders are bolted together. You heard right cylinders 1 for the front and 1 for the rear brake. Also got the plumbing for the front done. I will figure out how I want these mounted soon enough. Will keep you posted.

02-29-2012, 09:24 AM
Im not sure exactly where im mounting the MC's but it will be under the shock tower right above the brake pedal. I have to work that out. Yes one of the mc is a hand brake from a banshee (front) the rear is the foot brake from the donor bike.

02-29-2012, 09:33 AM
The braking setup will resemble this pic.

03-01-2012, 09:57 PM
So I got the a-arms bolted up today and it looks pretty good, just need some fine tuning and they'll be set. Still waiting for my axles, I did get my rear hubs so ill be working on those very soon. heres some pics:cool:

03-05-2012, 09:43 PM
Thought I would have got more done today, but I got the engine mounts installed and dry fit the 750. Had to redo the mounts the first time I had made them too short and my exhaust would fit under the motor. I also picked up my hub mounts I had square blanks cut to accept my hubs. So tomorrow I will figure those bad boys out. Will post pics tomorrow too.

03-06-2012, 06:15 AM
Looking good man. How wide with this be

03-06-2012, 10:13 PM
This thing is 60" wide (front wheels) it will fit in my truck bed. I lengthened it to almost 8'. Originally this thing is about 7' long. I wanted a longer chain to my axle so I changed it. I also changed the roll cage a bit, and I am adding hydraulic brakes. So its mostly a SII, with some mods from me. The biggest change is the motor the plans show a 35 horse industrial motor, and I am going with a GSXR 750.:cool:

03-08-2012, 10:27 PM
I managed to work on my swing arms and rear hubs they are almost done. I remeasured the length and its gonna about 9'2" or so with tires. the front is 60" wide and the rear will about 62" wide. I had a local plasma cut my hub mounts and a couple round plates to accept my axle. Tomorrow I will finish the rear hub mounts, and then start on the new shock mount locations since I flipped the rear swing arms to accommodate my cv axles. As luck would have these S10 axles are going to fit without modification so no lengthening or shortening. I also looked up summit racing and ordered wheels that will fit my lug pattern front and rear (front is 4 on 4, rear is 5 on 4.5) UBUILDIT has you welding tabs on the hubs to make the wheels fit. I feel better about the wheel fitting the hub without welding tabs on them to make them work.

03-08-2012, 10:28 PM
Heres a couple more pics

03-11-2012, 10:13 PM
I picked up a 2000 lb winch today. I also got the front end figured out as far as caster camber and toe in. Other than that didnt get a whole lot done this weekend, but here are some more pics.

03-11-2012, 10:39 PM
So the Sii plans have you welding tabs on the hubs to accept a bigger lug pattern. I was not feeling so comfortable with that so I went ahead and purchased wheels from summit racing with the correct lug spacing. Weird how you can find what you need when you look. The front are 4 on 4 and the rear are 5 on 4.5 and the wheels match.

03-12-2012, 04:45 AM
Looks cool.

03-13-2012, 09:44 AM
I got the shock mounts done, had to stretch em a bit the drawings have smaller shocks on this thing. I have 11" travel up front and the same in the rear. Heres a pic with the cv bolted up.

03-18-2012, 09:02 AM
the roll cage is on and tacked, also got the sides on so your feet wont flop out. Took all the suspension components apart and prepped them for paint. Im just waiting for my wheels then i can roll this thing around. Should have those next week. Then its time for the engine to go back in and get it all wired up and figure out where to place the rad, and fuel tank. I should have the shifter in next week and get the pedals configured. I did get the winch mounts done thats ready now too. movin along.

03-18-2012, 05:01 PM
killer trailing arms man there not bendng any time soon!!

03-20-2012, 11:27 PM
Ya those trailing arms shouldn't bend, if they do I think someone is gonna need surgery afterwards. I got my wheels today, put em on and of course I'm 3 inches too wide!!! So rather than shorten a arms and redo.shock mounts I went ahead and shortened my hubs inch and a half each. Then removed inch and a half from each spindle, and voila I'm back to 60 inches overall width. Will prolly have to go with a little shorter front tire for turn radius but should be fine. Was going to put a 26" up front but will prolly do a 24 instead. Will post some pics soon.

03-24-2012, 10:46 AM
I have a rolling chasis, however my shocks are seriously lacking so I ordered some new ones. Guess if I like a low rider my current set up would work. Gonna try the air shocks with reservoirs I think that should work and give me some adjust ability.

03-24-2012, 09:31 PM
Some pics of my roller:)

03-28-2012, 10:23 PM
Well I got the body panels complete, dash is in, steering mount and bearing are in. Also gauge cluster and switches are mounted. Ill start the fuel tank next. Still waiting for my shocks to show up, once they get here ill fit the engine and start wiring things up. A little plumbing after that, then its time to test this thing out. getting closer every day!

03-31-2012, 11:31 AM
Didnt work on it today I went to Idaho for some lotto tickets instead. I need to pay for this thing somehow. Im up to 3 grand in cost and almost done, was hoping to keep it under 2500 but thats not happening obviously. So the new goal is to not go over 3500,we'll see.

03-31-2012, 10:52 PM
looks killer but wow, a 750 ? Lotta motor for so small of a ride. looks like your movin right along, nice looking build.

03-31-2012, 11:10 PM
Ya a 750 should be quite fast,.I wanted flexibility for sand as well as dirt, and mud. Plus the donor was 600 bucks I couldn't pass it up.

03-31-2012, 11:13 PM
I also lengthened. The buggy a foot ion the rear. I hope that helps with the added ponies. I do have a 13 tooth front and 57 tooth rear sprocket to gear this thing down a bit.

04-04-2012, 10:12 PM
So it took me about 4 hours to figure out how to go from the shock to the air lines to the reservoirs. The biggest hurdle was the stupid little air valve. the rubber was melting after I pressure tested the reservoirs and had to weld a leak. So I had to think real hard about that one. The solution was to cut away all of the rubber, and thread the brass fitting so I could screw in to the reservoir and TADA[smilie=wbounce.gif]works like a charm. However be careful if you do this, take your time only go about a 1/4 turn and back the die off then another 1/4 or you can risk breaking the schrader valve. the next item was the getting the water supply line A.K.A. air line to attach to the shock. turns out the inner diameter of the supply line is the same as the outer diameter of the shock nub. So presto change-o tap and die later these two fit together happy days are here again.

04-04-2012, 10:17 PM
After all that work with the new shocks I got the leaks in the hardware to stop I put 120lbs of air in these things and voila she stands up no more squatting down. I took this time to clean my garage it was filthy havent cleaned it in a week. After cleaning I set the motor in the chassis, and it looks good. A few pics with the new shocks and air reservoirs.:cool:

04-04-2012, 10:20 PM
Oh ya I should mention the air reservoirs were free material to me. They are made out of galvanized fence post. Just so happens my father in law was tearing his fence out and I was able to salvage some of it. Yes I did grind the galvanizing off before welding. This may be my first build, but I do know a few things.

04-06-2012, 08:21 PM
ok fuel tank is under way got the fuel pump mount done and the filler neck. Epoxy coated the interior so it wont rust (and prevent leaks) Tomorrow I will second coat the corners in the tank, and move on to something else. Maybe weld the steering up so I can turn with the wheel. We'll see.

04-07-2012, 12:50 AM
very nice!

04-07-2012, 07:10 AM
Lug, you are making great progress. I love the homemade remote reservoir shocks. Funny.... if this was an Edge, Rorty or Badland build there would be tons of replies. The SII gets no respect I tell ya, no respect. They just don't know how much fun these little buggies are.

Keep it up. I can't wait to see this bad boy with a 750 on it. The die for my bender is on the way, so I may be back in business soon.

04-07-2012, 09:40 AM
Thanks buddy, you're right I think there have been 4 people who have looked at this post. Im not sure why I thought there was a lot of good info here. I even try to answer questions of how I did something for anyone who asks. I know I have spent a lot of time brainstorming things and if it would help someone elseI will gladly take the tome to explain something. Im thinking the front end might lift off the ground pretty easy with the 750, and the lower gearing. It should be quite fun.

Been wondering when you were gonna start building again, get that die and get some pics going.

04-07-2012, 10:18 AM
Nice build. Lug-nuts can you please tell me how you have connected the air line to the reservoir?

04-07-2012, 10:36 AM
goes like this

I drilled an tapped the flat steel I welded to the bottom of the reservoir. The steps went like this.

1. cut the pipe to desired length
2. outline pipe diameter on flat steel endcap
3. cut end cap, and grind to shape
4. tack end caps to pipe, then fully weld
5. drill and tap one end to accept air valve
6. remove rubber from tire air valve then thread
7. teflon tape the air valve
8. pressurize the reservoir, and check for leaks
9. no leaks drill and tap the bottom for the air line


04-09-2012, 10:51 PM
Love this thread. I have a 400 atv engine buggy with wider tires and they do pretty good but ( I snicker as I say this ) DUDE ! you got a 750 for this thing :p your never gonna get the bugs outta your teeth with that perma grin your gonna have. I think you'll roast your tires trying to get traction but with the drive stuff your using, more meat on your rims will be no problem. I can't wait to hear how this thing runs. I worked on an SII myself but sold it before I finished it. Great design for the most part, And your right, this thread deserves more hits, snoopy

04-09-2012, 11:52 PM
Thanks Snoopy. So i got the pedals worked out today. I now have accelerator, brakes and a clutch that work. I even made it to the local hose supply house and got my rad hoses, and flexi brake line ends. Spent more than I thought for all the hoses, but I didnt break the bank (155) Oh well moving on.

I ended up disconnecting all the fittings on my air reservoirs and epoxied them together, cuz they was leakin a little. I recommend 90 second epoxy its quick.[smilie=evilgrin.gi:

04-09-2012, 11:55 PM
This thing might even pull the front wheels off the ground:eek: if i get enough traction. It wont, but its fun!

04-09-2012, 11:58 PM
oh man thats sick !!!!! :D

04-10-2012, 01:14 PM
I've been watching. This size two seater was what I originally set out to build, and boy was my wife pissed when she found out I changed to a single seat. I definitely want to build something that will fit in the bed of my truck next. Keep up the good work and pictures.

04-10-2012, 02:54 PM
I bet she was I know mine thinks Im crazy and is scared to let the kids ride in it. It is definitely a project getting this the right width, my rear tires are gonna have to be on the tail gate. The front tires will fit no problem. Good thing my trailer fits with the gate down or I'd be engineering a new gate or widening my bed somehow. Thinking along the lines if a grinder down the middle then add 3 or 4" of steel prolly look a little funky haha.

04-10-2012, 09:08 PM
Lug, the Views counter has been broken on this site for months. I originally thought it was something with the cookies on my laptop, but I have used several different PCs to read this site and the Views counter only increments when someone posts a new reply. So you actually have more viewers than you think, just not as many people replying as you might like. I know I have asked for suggestions or tips in my threads and rarely get a reply.

04-10-2012, 10:13 PM
That makes sense I wonder why the counter isnt working like it should.

Check it out, my gas tank is almost finished. The wiring is about half done, and I got the rear shocks fittings epoxied today[smilie=jumping.gif]

First pick is inside my tank, thought u would like to see it. Notice the corners look a little different its because I have embedded reinforcing fabric saturated in the epoxy for strength and sealing ability.


04-10-2012, 10:17 PM
woops heres the pics

04-10-2012, 10:19 PM
Wiring, looks like a spaghetti mess:mad:

04-10-2012, 10:48 PM
Monroes for the win i am going to be running them!!

04-11-2012, 07:08 AM
Lug, i'm thinking about going with a drive setup like yours(CV) on my buggy... can you tell me more about the parts, etc.?

by the way, it's looking good!

04-11-2012, 09:42 AM
Wheels, my cv axles and hubs are from a 86 chevy S10 I purchased them on ebay for 135.00 for axles and hubs.They measure from flange to hub bearing 14" collapsed and 16 1/2" extended that doesnt include the 5" for the threaded shaft end. Nice thing is, parts are inexpesive and if you dont need 15" plus travel they should be fine.

04-11-2012, 11:41 AM
oh, ok... thanks for the info.

04-11-2012, 01:02 PM
Went to NPS today and picked up a 16 ga 500' spool of wire for 12.99[smilie=non_banana1:

04-11-2012, 04:20 PM
I just got the wiring done for the engine and it cranks[smilie=rockout3.gi: I dont have the fuel hooked up yet, but what a relief it all came down to a small 20 ga yellow and black wire. Glad the internet is around I found a wiring diagram and after some research realized the yellow and black wire needed to be grounded. So i touched the frame and hit the switch and WHAMO she spins[smilie=mhihi.gif]

This is a good day

04-12-2012, 08:14 AM
Lug nuts i like a lot your rear setup with the s10 hubs and axles and your center carrier also. Many spent 500-600 bucks for the carrier only and you made it with simple parts. Well done :p

04-12-2012, 09:12 AM
Thanks, I wanted something simple we'll see how it holds up. I think I have about 40 dollars into the center carrier. The axle (1 3/16") was purchased at a freight damage store of course there is no damage I picked it up for 3 dollars its 75 online. the flanges were more expensive I had a local guy plasma cut them including my bearing carriers for the hubs for 25 dollars then my pillow bearings were around 12 with shipping. We'll see if it holds up. If not, then lesson learned, but for now I think it should be fine.

04-12-2012, 10:07 AM
that's why i like it so much... simple. well done.

04-12-2012, 11:15 AM
The flanges are flat or they are hollow ?

04-12-2012, 11:50 AM
They are flat drilled to accept bolt pattern on cv

04-12-2012, 11:19 PM
Majority of the wiring is done, I just need to wire up my winch and brake light. I dont have odometer reading or gauge lights on the cluster. from what i gather the speedo, odometer, and gauge lights dont work if your missing the front wheel speed sensor so I guess I wont worry about it right now. Got my headlights wired and installed heres a couple pics.

04-12-2012, 11:20 PM

04-13-2012, 08:28 AM
Dude NPS is the bomb. I am in there digging through treasures 3-4 times a month. For those junk pickers out there who don't know, now you know. I get all my springs for die making there for about 50 cents a pound. Beats $12-20 each. I picked up a bunch of 6" Dom .500 wall for 30 cents a pound. I used it to make 2 glass crushers a few weeks ago, and I have 3 more to build this month.

Sorry for the hijack. But they got it all. Automotive, sporting goods, household, tools, industrial supplies, and scrap metal. My wife hates it when I call her from that store. She knows I am buying something she won't approve of.

Your project is looking good. Congrats on getting the motor one step closer.

04-13-2012, 10:09 AM
N8, no worries nps is awesome I have learned u really need to pay attention some things arent that great if a deal. Some things are way cheap, u just gotta look.

04-13-2012, 10:56 AM
How much did you spend on it up to now ?

04-13-2012, 11:06 AM
The internet has changed that place so much in the last 5 years. Now they sell all the real good stuff on Ebay, and only the leftovers go to the store. And worse yet they know how much it is worth and the ask close to retail.

My advice is
1. Grab the flyer at the door to see what is on sale and only hit the sections that are 50% or more off.
2. Never go looking for something specific.
3. If you think you want something, get it because it will not be there next time.

04-13-2012, 05:48 PM
I have noticed the prices I always check on my phone if Idont think its a good deal. Actually there have been quite a few times when I havent purchased something because I have seen it cheaper somewhere else. They are sneaky I turned down a few things when I went this week cause I new I could get it for less somewhere else. Too bad they are selling the good stuff on ebay that sux. :mad: I just recently found out about that place back in january

04-13-2012, 09:29 PM
OK the wiring is complete, the gas tank needs two tabs welded to the cage, I need to change the oil, then fuel it and I will be firing this thing up tomorrow. Wont be driving it I have no sprocket as of yet I will net week.

I also made a tee for the oil filter/radiator cooler. Ill put it in the big Rad line I figure this way I dont need to drill my plastic civic radiator.

04-13-2012, 09:31 PM
heres my tank with the stock suzuki parts in it:D

04-14-2012, 08:47 AM
Lug Nuts,

The build looks great. Lots of inovative thinking.... great stuff.
I have to comment on your post #22 since no one else did ...

I picked up a 2000 lb wench today. I also got the front end figured out as far as caster camber and toe in. Other than that didnt get a whole lot done this weekend, but here are some more pics.

You gotta be pretty strong to pick up a 2000# wench :eek:. I'm just curious, what did you do with here once you picked her up? [smilie=shocker.gif]
ohhh ..... you must have ment winch ;)

Just bustin' your chops :D:D great build. It should be a fun "first run" video.


04-14-2012, 09:40 AM
she was sooooooo heavy[smilie=scared.gif]

04-14-2012, 04:38 PM
Getting the tank mounted and the rad as I write this. I also shortened the exhaust can the bike came with, its only 10" long now[smilie=haha.gif] No more sticking out past the back end of the buggy. If anyone does this be prepared the stuff inside it freakin itchy[smilie=scared.gif] ill post pics later


04-14-2012, 10:03 PM
OK if you do this a trick I learned is the fiberglass inside will unroll dont try to slide it off. Same with the steel wool underneath just unroll it. After you cut everything down to the correct length then cut the steel wool and fiberglass and roll it back on. You might want to wear a long sleeve shirt or a jacket when u do this. When your done change your clothes I was itchy for hours until I showered. Once everything was put back together I just marked out the hole re-drilled and riveted it all back together.

04-14-2012, 10:06 PM
The reason for cutting down the exhaust was because it stuck out too far past my tires, so I shortened it. Heres a couple pics of the can on the exhaust. The last one is the radiator in and coolant lines in the buggy.

04-15-2012, 06:50 AM
Thanks for all the posts & updates. Do you think your rims and tires are kinda light or kinda heavy?
And I like the new exhaust. My brother cut his down also, works like a champ. Lots of great ideas here. snoopy

04-15-2012, 10:04 AM
The wheels arent the lightest in the world, but they are aluminum. Not near as light as douglas wheels, but I like the way these look and Im runnin a 750[smilie=boogie.gif] in a buggy that weighs under 600 pounds. I would say the wheels about 12 pounds with out a tire. hope that answers your question.

04-18-2012, 04:44 PM
Ive been lost since the site went down, glad its back up. I was goin crazy

04-18-2012, 10:53 PM
Alright I got the chain tensioner done today. The sprocket and axle are done too. The short version is 2 square tubes one that fits in the other so you can weld the bigger one to the frame and the inner one slides with nuts welded inside. The end cap has a bolt in it you can tighten and pushes the inner "mount" back. Ill show you

04-18-2012, 10:56 PM
Heres the axle mocked up.

04-19-2012, 10:58 PM
Shift linkage is done, works like a champ. Seems everyone is making their shift linkage with a morse cable. I went a different route. My linkage is made from 3/8 steel rod, and 1/2" tube. I bent the rod in my bender so the bends looked like a white guy did it. I then threaded the 1/2" tube for my hiem. Made a clevis out of the 1/2" tube and welded a 1/2" nut to the end of then threaded a piece of the tube and welded it to the linkage. Now Im full adjustable.

04-19-2012, 11:00 PM
some more pics

04-19-2012, 11:01 PM
heres the linkage hooked up to the tranny

04-19-2012, 11:05 PM
Alright, so I need to build the battery box and modify some of the body panels. Once thats done ill remove all the body work and finish welding a few spots do some grinding and paint this beeotch[smilie=jumping.gif]

04-20-2012, 01:08 PM
My shifter will be made from rods as well. RickS' AR51 build has pics of his rod setup which I'm mirroring mine after. Keep up the good work. I haven't had the time or parts to really work on my buggy for the last three days, so I'm kind of stalled out and browsing the forums more.

04-22-2012, 09:35 AM
So I fired the engine up for the fisrt time yesterday. It took a minute to get the old fuel outta the fuel rail, but once it was cleared out she ran just fine. Now I have a gremlin to hunt down in the electrical. I have no Tach, or speedo, ododmeter, and no back lighting on the gauge cluster. Its probably a ground issue everything worked before I took apart. So that should be fun.

04-28-2012, 09:04 AM
I havent been on in a week been dealing with a family tragedy[smilie=tr_rip.gif] Just want to let you know I did get paint done, and I am putting her back together. Also got the ground issue fixed with my gauges so Im good to go. Will post some pics later.

04-28-2012, 09:15 AM
heres a pic

04-28-2012, 09:21 AM
I have a few on my phone I forgot about here ya go!!!

04-28-2012, 09:24 AM
Awesome job on the buggy!

Looking forward to seeing how your shocks work out.

Sorry for your loss.

04-29-2012, 12:49 PM
Thanks for encouragement I am getting the wiring done now, just a few more connections to make and then attach computer and fuse box. Gonna try the resistor trick to get rid of some of the vacuum sensors, and the tip over switch. will let you know how that goes.

04-30-2012, 09:14 AM
So I finished the wiring, the resistor trick I havent done yet. heres my wiring harness

04-30-2012, 09:20 AM
So if u look I added a LED brake light its about 16" long on the rear top roll bar. All the lights work and I even have LED lit switches. I mounted the computer and ran the wiring harness under the passenger seat. Then it goes under the floor pan in front of the seat I added some tubing cross bracing to keep the wiring from being lower than the frame dont wanna rip that stuff out over a rock that would ruin my day.

04-30-2012, 12:39 PM
I have always thouhgt the shredder 2 was a great first project to tackle, buggy wise. Do you have any drive time on that thing yet, before all the paint and such. Couple parts I have concern with, with that much power thru it.

04-30-2012, 01:45 PM
Thx for concern. I will keep u updated when things break.

05-04-2012, 11:40 PM
So Ive been working a few bugs out. I added some support to my pedal assembly and got the brakes tore down cleaned and now ready to be bled. I just keep chiseling away at this thing and Im close to being completely finished[smilie=biggrin.gif]

05-08-2012, 10:38 AM
just adding a few reisitors to remove these stupid vacuum sensors, and off I go.

05-13-2012, 01:48 PM
So i fixed my air leak in the shocks, I removed the air valves on the reservoirs and mixed up some 90 second epoxy placed it in the sealing area on the valve and installed them. Then waited about 2 hours before filling them up. 3 days later I still have full pressure in the reservoirs. So there you go, if you have been having this problem epoxy all your fittings everyone of them.

05-27-2012, 07:58 PM
Hey I am nearby in Idaho. I am thinking about tackling this project as well. I also wanted to use cv joints in the rear end. I have a couple of questions:

1. Could you post a parts list for the rear drive train setup and possible dimensions of the parts you had made?

I know the cv's are from an s10 chevy but if I could understand what other parts to get it would really help.:confused:

2. I am considering rear A-arm suspension. Was there any reason you did not consider this as an option?
Seems you would get better clearance over rocks and stuff with A-arms.

3. Could you get some close-ups of the rear cv drive with all the fabricated parts and stuff?

4. Where's the big finally? I expected to see a video of this thing tear'n it up?!

Great job so far thanks for this write up!:D

05-27-2012, 08:49 PM
Pm sent. I will Answer your questions when I get back in town next week. Glad I could help.

05-28-2012, 10:22 PM
1986 chevy s10 (front) cv's and unit hubs ($135.00 ebay)the axles were rebuilt. The longer the drive axle the higher you make
rearend it will push out the cvs and add more angle to them be careful too much angle and they will hate you.

I had a local guy plasma cut 1/4" steel plate to accept the hubs. Then I drilled the plates to accept the mounting bolts (3)
on page 2 of my build I have pics of the swing arms with the hub mount flanges welded together, and on with the hub mounted.

Page 3 has more pics of the rear axle and the hubs, also the cv axles mocked up. the longer you make the axle the more
ground clearance you will have. Be aware that too much angle on the cv's and they will bind when turning. So just figure how
much droop you can have with the cv out and angle it by hand, or you can go with the porsche cv's (big money) this was a
budget build for me so I went low cost.

I purchased a 1 3/16" 4' long keyed axle at the NPS store here in slc for 3 dollars yes I said 3 dollars and they have more.
If you need more info on the nps store let me know, and they have 1" pipe for the roll cage if you are going to use what plans
spec they are 20' lengths are 9 dollars a piece. I paid about 29 dollars for 20' lengths. I wish they had tubing. Huge
assortment of bolts too.

Also dont buy the 50 different sizes of flat steel just get 3" X 1/8" and cut all of your gussets and other pieces from that
The steel store only sales it in 10' lengths so this will save you money and space.

I also had my local plasma cutter cut me 4 flanges (round) and cut out the 1 3/16 centers for the axle. 1 for each cv, 1 for
my sprocket, and one for the rear brake rotor. once I figured out how wide my rear frame needed to be that determined how
wide my axle needed to be. Then I welded the flanges to the axle. the two outers ones had to wait until everything was placed

I think the cost for 6 flanges cut was about 30 bucks and he supplied the steel.

Also picked up 2 1 3/16" pillow block bearings ebay again (27.00) and 2 1 3/16 axle collars so the axle wont slide left and
right once mounted (16.00 ebay)

As far as rear a-arms thats up to you, I went with the swing arms for ease to build and they are built like a tank.

Dimensions are what ever you want them to be. the frame is 13" wide at the axle and 38" long from the back of the main frame.
It is wider under the motor to accomodate that. It was all done specifically for that motor. When you have the frame at that
point just make it to what you need thats what I did.

Also the swing arms I flipped over from the way the plans have them, making it wider in the rear and by accident making it the
correct width for my cv's so I didnt have to cut them to make them fit.

05-28-2012, 10:30 PM
heres some pics

05-28-2012, 10:33 PM
I hope this helps let me know if you need pics with measurement ie tape measure in the pic or whatever. sounds like your building something for going over big rocks this one is more for dirt roads and sand not real big rocks but should still do ok.

05-30-2012, 11:42 PM
Wow. Thank you so much for that added info! Just what I was looking for. A lot of it you had explained already but I didn't quite understand. Seems very simple and straight forward now that you've explained it further. Yup, and those are the pics I was after too.

After reading further on this forum I realized why so many people are going with the rear trailing arms instead of A-arms: Easy to build with almost the same performance as the A-arms. Trailing arms seem to be a bit more robust too. Although A-arms look cooler.:cool:

I sure would like to see your buggy in action. It's going to be a treat to watch with that engine. How long til its up and running?

05-30-2012, 11:51 PM
I hope this helps let me know if you need pics with measurement ie tape measure in the pic or whatever. sounds like your building something for going over big rocks this one is more for dirt roads and sand not real big rocks but should still do ok.

Well just thinking about trails I've been on in the past that come close to bottoming out 4 wheelers with big rocks poking up here and there. I really want an all around vehicle that can take it all on. Looks like your setup accomplishes this well enough.

05-30-2012, 11:59 PM
Just build a skid plate out of 3/8" or 1/2" UHMW and it will slide right over those big rocks.

05-31-2012, 10:30 PM
So another thing I would do different would be to make the seating area of the frame 6" to 12" longer and maybe 6" wider. It wont affect the width of the front suspension and the rear you can make the necessary accommodations to fit your setup thats easy. Unfortunately I lengthened from the seats to the end of the swing arms, if I did it again I would make it longer in the seating area and maybe 6"to swing arms instead of the 12" to the swing arms only. As it is the rear wheels will be sitting on my tail gate (too wide to fit in the box) but thats because I flipped them over moved the wheel mount out about 4" on each side.

05-31-2012, 10:33 PM
So I am 5' 11" and I sit with bent knees in this thing, so lengthening the seating area would have been nice. No biggie Ill deal with it. Once I get all my studying out of the way Ill get a vid up. Only one more test to pass then Ill be licensed and on my way (contractor license)[smilie=boogie.gif]

05-31-2012, 10:35 PM
By the way if you go with the hubs recommended in the plans you might have to make them shorter like I did if you want it to fit in a truck bed.

08-23-2012, 11:13 PM
OK so its been a minute since Ive been on. I just upgraded my clutch to a EFM auto clutch, and let me tell ya its awesome. No more foot pedal clutch just put it in gear and slam on the gas off u go. Shifting is easy both up and down, and no more touchy sunuvab1itgh clutch:D cost 725.00 with shipping but totally worth it especially if u have limited room up front like me in ths SII.

08-24-2012, 09:46 AM
Wow that's cool. Some times money can bring happyness.

08-24-2012, 02:36 PM
2nd day, still smilin luv my new clutch[smilie=wbounce.gif]

09-18-2012, 05:02 PM
OK so I am puttin a bigger rear sprocket on. Have a little trouble taking off with two grown men in the buggy with the current set up 13 front 56 rear. Its fine once i hit 3000 rpm. I think the 70 tooth rear should spice it up a bit. Heres a copy of the invoice not too bad a price.

Thrust Company Rear TC-23 1 89.99 Make & Model = Suzuki GSX-R750
Sprocket 525: 53-70
Size = 70
Year = 1999
Subtotal 89.99
Coupon discount -9.00
Subtotal 80.99
Shipping 12.00
Tax 0.00
Total 92.99

09-20-2012, 01:25 PM
Lug, been awhile since I checked into your thread and it came out great!

I love the ingenuity! Just goes to show you dont have to spend $15k plus to get some good old fashion thrills in your life. Cant wait to see some video!

Im gonna be doing your resevoir Shock mods on the Current buggy project Im doing also.

Thanks for the Project updates.

09-20-2012, 09:15 PM
Just goes to show you dont have to spend $15k plus to get some good old fashion thrills in your life. .

I'm up to 11k ish. And we'll I'm almost to the 15k mark. Ah dang.

09-24-2012, 10:48 AM
So I have been dealing with a slow leak on my air shocks (rear) I was losing around 10 psi/day. It hit me the other day how fix this problem, and I feel like an idiot that I didnt think of it sooner. Tire slime, thats right tire slime. I bought a aerosol can of the stuff ( $7.00) let the air out of my rear shocks and put in just enough I could see the air bag on the shock start to inflate (about 1/4 can each) Then filled to 110#'s with air. Its been 4 days and normally by now the air loss is enough to see major sagging, my results are no leaks I still have 110#'s in the rear shocks. Easy fix for a stubborn problem (so far)

09-24-2012, 11:03 AM
Heres the break down in monetary terms what I have spent on this build.

Donor Bike.............................$600.00
Right side cover.......................$39.00
Seats and seat belts...................$260.00
Vacuum block off.......................$7.00
Steel tubing, flat plate...............$448.00
Shocks jcwhitneyItem Number:126399.....$125.57
steering rack..........................$93.00
Front hubs.............................$87.00
steering shaft.........................$35.00
Pillow bearings........................$27.00
Heim joints............................$111.00
Axles & hubs...........................$135.00
MIG WIRE...............................$135.00
Banshee front brakes...................$10.00
Throttle/clutch cables.................$44.00
cone washers, jamnuts..................$10.00
Kill switch start switch...............$6.50
light switch...........................$4.00
Led brake light........................$5.99
Axle Collars...........................$15.50
wheel adapters.........................$54.00
front sprocket 13T.....................$21.00
Rear sprocket..........................$75.00
air shocks.............................$101.00
plumbing parts for air shocks..........$50.00
NPS wire...............................$25.00
rad hose and brake lines...............$155.00
home depot.............................$30.00
honda 450r brakes and master...........$100.00
EFM Autoclutch.........................$725.00
70t sprocket...........................$92.00
CNC brake pedal........................$120.00
Paddle tires...........................$70.00
2 extra wheels.........................$160.00
FOA shocks (front 2)...................$520.00

Drill press............................$75.00

Parts & Tools total....................$5008.57
Money made from part outs..............$2810.00
Out of pocket..........................$2198.57

09-24-2012, 11:06 AM
I have just posted the rest of my donor bike on ebay, and should make around 1200.00 dollars (optimistically) the frame is a slow seller locally so I needed a bigger audience. I also have a few other parts left from the bike other than the frame listed also. the total out of pocket should be under 400 dollars after side jobs and part outs. The labor cost would be insane over 600 hours probably closer to 700. I learned a lot from this build.

09-24-2012, 02:33 PM
Dang thats awesome budgeting...great work!

09-24-2012, 03:14 PM
Great job. The Shredder II plans were some of the first I bought while researching buggy builds. One day I might build one with lots of suspension and drivetrain modifications. I need a two seater that can be used on tight ATV trails.

09-24-2012, 07:23 PM
I could itemize my build. An well it only shows you how much money you are hurried in the car.
I sat down and added up all of my receipts and well if the wife saw the total ......... She would be pissed off.
I'm over 10k over all wit my car. And we'll I will always say this. "It's only money!"

09-24-2012, 07:53 PM
How much welding wire do you have in that rig!?!?:eek:


09-25-2012, 07:45 AM
Slime in the shocks? That would not have crossed my mind. Let us know how it works out long term. There is a lot more going on in a shock than a tire, I wonder if you'll notice a difference in the performance. And nice work on the budget.

09-25-2012, 08:23 AM
the leaks are so slow I figured a little might help, and it has so far. Only time will tell

09-26-2012, 04:48 PM
Shocks are still holding pressure just fine. No leak down its been a week normally a couple days later and they would need to be fillled. Let you know how the shocks perform after I get the new sprocket in (any day now)

10-05-2012, 10:16 PM
My rear shocks are still fully inflated and its been 2 weeks, GO SLIME

10-06-2012, 11:11 AM
My rear shocks are still fully inflated and its been 2 weeks, GO SLIME

Nice. Glad it's holding for you.

10-07-2012, 07:34 AM
here's the line up 70T, 56T, and 45T sprocket. The 70 is HUGE its about 14" across. Im just in the process of putting the rear axle shaft back together. Wont get to try it till next weekend gotta work out of town this week.

10-15-2012, 09:07 PM
Got the new axle done, some pics.

Thomas h.
10-15-2012, 11:21 PM
Progress is going great, at 700$ you have a profit margin !
Most people loose half the investment. Your way ahead of the game!

10-16-2012, 03:54 AM
I admire someone with attention to details, keep up the good work.

10-20-2012, 02:52 PM
A few more pics, the third pic you can see where the body was "modified" from suspension travel. lol

10-22-2012, 07:41 PM
I noticed you had put the led lights on it. Did you notice a significant difference, I was looking at them and wondering if they are worth the price.

10-22-2012, 11:31 PM
The LED lights on the front are the ebay cheapies and they suck, but there on there so Im leavin them. The 55W halogens are way better!! if u want LEDs spend the money and get the good ones

10-23-2012, 03:07 PM
That is good to know. Are they just not bright or do they not travel far. I had a set of Harbor Freight halogen lights on our buggy but the vibrations killed them.

10-30-2012, 06:35 PM
the low dollar LED ebay lights arent bright and do not travel far. I put them on and now Im just being lazy and dont wanna take them off. I guess there ok if u goin real slow. I put 20 dollar wal-mart halogens on it and they work really well. Then again I dont do a lot of night riding so depending on what you're looking for you may need more

10-30-2012, 06:51 PM
went on ride today hard to tell in these pics, but im actually on top the moutain looking over the valley. This place was really rocky, the cedar bushes were fun to run over:D

10-30-2012, 07:07 PM
It looks like the photos from mars

10-30-2012, 08:06 PM
Ahhh Utah Desert, sure was fun.

11-05-2012, 10:35 PM
Hey Lugs, are the shock hose lines to the resevoir 3/8 x 3/8?

What size tap did you use?

Home depot only has 3/8 x 3/8 x 20.
I think 20 is gonna be to long.

It looks like your hoses are 3/8x1/8. Or did you add any adapters.

11-06-2012, 12:37 PM
Okay So after a few times back and forth I figured out the hardware for the Reservoir to hose connection.

I'll post some pics. I went with the 3/8 x 3/8 x 20 hose length. they did have 12" or 16" So I went with the 20" which actually looks like a better distance for my Reservoir Location Mount.

Of you'll need to put teflon tape or even epoxy like what Lugs did on the threads. I'll try the tape first and see if I can get a leakless connection. Gonna be making 4 Reservoirs tonight.

Only thing I still have to figure out is the thread pitch for the Shock Barb. Haven't really compared it to what I have in my Tap and Die kit yet.
Hope this helps.

Thanks Lugs for the tutorial on making these. I hope they are still working good on your buggy.

12-17-2012, 09:47 PM
No problem, still working good. I had to use a NPT and regular taps to make it all work together. It was definitely a head scratcher

01-26-2013, 08:46 PM
First off awesome build! I have been doing some research because I want to start a buggy build and i just came across the s II plans today, and i was like wow this is almost exactly what I wanted to do. I'm seriously considering getting the plans when I start. So I want to ask a few questions if you don't mind. I just wanted your opinion on the plans, and if there is anything I should look to change when I start. I saw they have part kits as well I was wondering if you bought any or if you got your parts somewhere else. If you did which ones did you get and did you have any problems? I think I want to get them to make things simple since it will be my first build. I also think i would want the buggy to sit a couple inches taller could I adjust it that much or would i have to modify the a- arms and shock mounts?

01-26-2013, 08:55 PM
Oh and I was wondering if you have a video of this bad boy in action yet? Or did I miss it?

01-27-2013, 12:04 PM
I did buy ubuildit's rack and pinion. As far s the suspension you can make it taller but I think you would have to modify the a-arms and their mounts the heims tend to hit the mounts but that would be easy to remedy just make the mounts longer and move the bolt hole further out so they dont hit.

Havent made a video yet, I need a buddy to get that.

01-27-2013, 12:20 PM
Ok, Thanks

02-24-2013, 10:41 AM
Got some heim type ball joints from speedway motors to replace my "home made" ones that tend to fail after a couple hours (probably cuz I grind the weld smooth so they can articulate) will post some pics in a couple weeks when I start upgrading:D

02-24-2013, 06:59 PM
Yeah I vote for pics!

03-09-2013, 11:14 AM
What is the air reservoir for? Better shock performance? If so, have you tried it without the reservoir hooked up so you could feel the difference? Reason for asking is because I got the same shocks. If the difference is substantial, I'll build one too.

03-17-2013, 08:44 AM
Im not sure how much difference they made because I didnt run them without them. More air (volume) is always better, but you could prolly get away without them.

03-17-2013, 08:45 AM
Installed Timbrens on my truck

03-17-2013, 08:46 AM

07-14-2013, 04:34 PM
Well, I finally got rid of the hand brake master cylinders (2) and went with one. A reverse swing 5/8 MC from CNC. picked it up for 130 bucks plus shipping. Also upgraded my throttle pedal. Luckily for me I didn't go with the plans when I built the steering so I have plenty or rather barely enough room to shoehorn the assembly in. fortunately it worked out fine.

07-14-2013, 04:43 PM
more pics

Pstegs 101
07-14-2013, 04:54 PM
nice job looks good

09-15-2013, 10:56 PM
Heres the link to a little video from ealrier today. There were mud holes everywhere. Should have known that hasnt stopped raining for 2 weeks.
this is video 1 of 2

SII GSXR 750 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/JZnW7SArXf4)

09-15-2013, 10:57 PM
lets see if this works, this is video 2

Shredder II GSXR 750. - YouTube (http://youtu.be/xBD24MvmI0Q)

09-15-2013, 11:00 PM
lets see if this works

Did you forget to paste the link in the text here.

Oh I see it.

SII GSXR 750 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/JZnW7SArXf4)

09-15-2013, 11:01 PM
I link the high speed puddle. Cool.

09-15-2013, 11:03 PM
Hey chikin thx for the help:D

09-15-2013, 11:09 PM
Hey I figured it out. If you are on a cell phone. It gives you a short link.
I am on a iPhone. So what I did was went to you tube on the web and copied the link from there. This will make a actual video player like this.

Shredder II GSXR 750. - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBD24MvmI0Q)


See with your first link. The link says you.tube. In the link. That's a cell phone link.
Heck it confused me too for a minute.

09-15-2013, 11:52 PM

09-16-2013, 08:09 AM
Haha! thanks Noclue, I needed that for sure! Terrible at using my I-phone !

09-17-2013, 07:53 AM
Nice buggy! How do those air shocks work for you?

09-17-2013, 06:07 PM
Love your build!! Im subscribed!!

09-21-2013, 08:49 PM
the shocks work pretty good. I am upgrading the front , I found a small leak on the "air lines" the rears stay full for weeks and weeks.

10-16-2013, 06:15 PM
OK I am working on the new FOA shocks up front. I got the old mounts removed except for the right lower, and the new lower mounts cut and drilled. want some pics? Prolly gonna have to modify the upper A arm to accept the spring and shock they're a little bigger than monroe air shocks.

10-17-2013, 04:17 PM
keep an eye on those cv axles. I have used the same ones on my buggy for 4+ years.. ive had to make a few mods over the years. The tripod end likes to lose the clips that hold the needle bearings in the outer bearing races and pretty soon your axle has play and you find chewed up needle bearings in the grease. Also keep an eye on that 1-3/16" axle shaft. Ive seen 1" axles twist even under 600cc engines, and 3/16 isnt much more beef. And finally, those pillow block bearings start inspecting those from cracks, there has been a thread or two where those have cracked and ripped apart which doesnt make for a happy outcome. have fun!!!

10-17-2013, 09:54 PM
Hmmm, will do. Thanks for the heads up.

10-29-2013, 09:49 PM
Finally getting it all back together. Here's a few pics while the paint dries.

10-29-2013, 11:00 PM
Hey Nuts, when you made modifications to the a-arms... did you put them in a jig so that they wouldn't move while you were welding them back together? or were you not worried about it?

10-30-2013, 09:56 PM
No, I actually welded the new pieces to the A arm while it was bolted to the buggy. I figured I didnt need a jig. Just measured the A arms marked them and tacked on the new pieces. Then stood back and looked at. Everything was symmetrical so I cut out the piece that needed to go and cycled the A arms with the shock in there to make sure everything fit and then I finished welding the braces and end caps on.

10-30-2013, 09:59 PM
oh, ok. cool.. thanks.

10-30-2013, 10:02 PM
heres a couple pics of the pieces I made to replace the middle of the A arm I cut out.

10-30-2013, 10:07 PM
Hmm? heres a couple MOAR

10-31-2013, 10:07 PM
DONE! installed, aligned, camber set, ready for the weekend!

Up north
11-01-2013, 08:33 AM
Pretty shiny stuff on that buggy. Looking good Nuts. I'm interested in the performance of these shocks so please let us know if your satisfied once you test them

11-01-2013, 11:35 AM
Will do. The service guys at FOA have been very helpful. The only complaint I have is I didnt read which length coil spring I needed and ordered the wrong one. I had to ship them back and wait for the correct length. However they are located in Las Vegas (not too far from me) Shipping is pretty quick and they are made in the USA!

Up north
11-01-2013, 11:59 AM
Will do. The service guys at FOA have been very helpful. The only complaint I have is I didnt read which length coil spring I needed and ordered the wrong one. I had to ship them back and wait for the correct length. However they are located in Las Vegas (not too far from me) Shipping is pretty quick and they are made in the USA!

Yeah your supposed to double the shock travel or a spring length right? 8 inch shock needs 16" of spring. That's the way I read it but I confuse easily lol

11-01-2013, 03:55 PM
Yep they told me you want double the spring length compared to the travel so my 6" needs min 12" spring I went with 14" thats what they recommend. The 14" fits right I think the 12" would have been short.

11-01-2013, 04:00 PM
It feels like Christmas, I just got my wheels through Discount tire (special order) took 3 days to ship. I had them mount my sand paddles by paddlemaster size 25-12-8

I got the paddles on ebay for 70.00 including shipping (total for 2)

The wheels were 75.00 ea. plus 10.00 to mount the tires.

So I am in to the sand paddles and wheels for 240.00

Another quality budget build brought to you by LUG-NUTS:D


11-02-2013, 01:45 AM
Nice looking wheels. :cool:

Up north
11-02-2013, 09:26 AM
Mmhmm nice stuff Lug Nuts!

11-02-2013, 10:34 AM
You could go cheaper and buy used, but you probably wouldnt save a whole lot. Maybe 50-75 bucks if you find the right bolt pattern and tire size in your local classifieds.

11-03-2013, 06:27 PM
Saturday was a perfect day for riding. The sun was out no clouds 65 degrees and a slight breeze. Went out to 5 mile pass in Utah's west desert. Its always a bit rocky but its fun. I saw a plane flying about 50 above the ground that was cool! Today it looks like winter is here its snowing. I guess I need to figure where Im gonna ride in the weather now

I couldnt be happier with the performance of my new shocks or the buggy. This thing has got some BAWLS!


Up north
11-03-2013, 07:50 PM
That awesome Nuts! Glad you got to get out and ride and that you were happy with your shocks! Do you recemend to noob who knows nothing about shocks?

11-03-2013, 08:32 PM
It really depends on your budget. I was trying to this build on the cheap. If I were to do monroe air shocks again I would prolly lose the reservoirs. The air lines leaked slow but they leaked. Obviously if you have the budget go with a nice set of shocks, if not there are alot of options out there. Another rout would be VW coil overs from jc whitney and then get on speedway motors and upgrade the spring so it can hold up the buggy.

Up north
11-03-2013, 08:40 PM
Thanks, well no I don't really have the budget for nice shocks but I have a long way to go so maybe opportunity to buy nice shocks may come around. I don't do credit cards because my wife knows me well enough that I shouldn't have one. I was thinking Monroe or Gabriel airs but I don't know their limits

11-03-2013, 09:09 PM
the air shocks work really well, just look at mount location ie fulcrum point. I did have to relocate the rears to get them as close to axle as possible. However the front's they were right in the middle of the lower a arm 10" from the hub, and 10" form the pivot point in the frame. The front I would run about 130 psi, the rear only need 110 thats with a passenger. By myself the rear only need 95-100 psi front 120.

11-03-2013, 09:13 PM
Too bad ur not closer, I would give you my front monroes i took out.

Up north
11-03-2013, 09:25 PM
Lol yeah I don't really live close to anyone up here. I really appreciate the gesture though.

11-03-2013, 11:42 PM
Looking good Lugs!

Hey do you have a Photobucket account? If so you can upload your pics to PB then grab the URL link on PB and paste it on your thread. Then the picture will pop straight up and show on your thread rather then a link.

How is your steering, does it toe in or out? It looks like your steering rack may be a bit low, Tie rods not parallel with the arms. Could be the pic angle.

How was the Coil spring rate? do you think you have to try a different spring rate?

11-04-2013, 11:22 AM
nice catch, I was getting a lot of bumpsteer when I took it out. after looking at it I realized I didnt make my spacers the correct length to match the a arm angle on the lower ball joint (heim)[smilie=tr_oops.gif]

11-04-2013, 11:26 AM
My toe in is 1/16" when measured front to back of tire, as far s coil spring rate I have the 100# 14" springs and they seem plenty stiff. I still have 3-1/2" of adjustment on the shock if they need to be stiffer. I also have 150 psi nitrogen in the front shocks.

11-04-2013, 12:23 PM
If you have to add more than an inch of preload, then the spring is too soft. Once inch of preload on a 100# springs = 200# starting rate

11-04-2013, 03:16 PM
Good to know K-fab. I would think that 100# would be pretty light for the Rate, But then again it is a pretty light buggy.

150 PSI Nitro is about max for most King and Swayaway shocks, but I know some guys like to run a bit more. You could also run a harder Compression Valving if you have too, its always good to take apart your shocks and get to know them better so you can better Tune them in the future.

Buggy looks great, Its come a long way. Im surprised those rear air shocks are still holding up! Thats awesome!

11-05-2013, 02:54 PM
that's what FOA recommended for the weight of my buggy. I actually have the preload set about 2" the pic looks like more that only cuz the spring doesn't contact the adjuster till its down about a inch

11-05-2013, 03:21 PM
You mean you have the Preload 2" from the top of the shock or from the top of the Spring?
Another words, If the spring is a 14" length, then you have it Preloaded to 12"?

If so Then thats not good, It should only be about 1/2" preload at max. Even a 1/4" makes a difference.

11-06-2013, 07:24 PM
So, I contacted FOA today about the pre load. FOA say's I am fine to compress up to 25% of the overall length of the spring. Which means I can actually crank this thing down another 1.5" if I wanna. She's a big girl that needs that much pre load[smilie=shocked.gif]
Gonna back it off a little tomorrow and try it out see if I like it.

11-06-2013, 10:42 PM
Thats a first, I always thought its was no more then 1/2" then you go up in spring rate. I could be wrong. As long as it rides the way you want it and the coil isn't bowing then all should be good.

11-08-2013, 07:23 PM
Everything looks good when Im beating it. [smilie=haha2.gif]

11-09-2013, 04:25 PM
Nice! When you get a chance, try shooting some video of the buggy going through some whoops so we can slow motion it and see what the suspension is really doing.

11-10-2013, 10:33 PM
went thru a bunch a whoops today, but didnt film any of it. Gonna try to back out tuesday maybe I can get some video of it then. With the paddles on I noticed I needed to keep the RPM's up, when going up a hill with the auto clutch you cant feather it. No biggie i just changed my riding style to compensate (mash the go-fast pedal). Mouth full of sand is crunchy!

11-11-2013, 03:19 AM
Are those paddles heavy? They look like a set we tried out but they were heavy and the paddles were thick solid rubber, not really cupped.

Yes would love to see some video of those whoops.

11-13-2013, 12:45 PM
The paddle and wheel weigh 31.8 lbs just weighed them:D
Dont know if thats heavy or not.

11-14-2013, 11:00 PM
Can you say ROOF RACK!

I went to local big box home improvement store and picked up 40' of 3/4" EMT conduit, and 8-1" rubber insulated clamps.

I am using the existing screw's to attach the rack to the roof. The cost so far is 28.00

I then removed 8 screw's and placed the clamps in the spots and screwed them in.

Next I borrowed my bro in-law's conduit bender and bent a 90 so I could then place it on top and measure for the next bend.

After determining where my next bend was I bent it, so now I have half of the "hoop" bent. Did the same to the other side and then overlayed both of them to get the correct width marked and cut.

After they were cut I welded the two halves together and now have a full hoop.

The hoops used about 9' of conduit each amazing how much is needed when you start bending it up.

I didnt get much done today because I went out riding my buggy this afternoon


11-15-2013, 01:38 AM
Yah I think they are like the one I have up in the loft, they feel like a brick.

I just weighed the ITP tire with the Aluminum buggy wheel and its at 18lbs.

Are you running steel wheels?

11-15-2013, 10:09 AM
Aluminum wheels they weigh about 13.5 lbs. Thats pretty light tire and wheel you have. My buggy makes enough power the weight of the tires doesnt really bother it. The buggy still screams.

11-15-2013, 10:35 AM
what size is your sand tire setup? mine is 25"X 8"X 12" looking up the itp tires I see the size I would run weighs 18 lbs just the tire so not too much less than what I am currently running, at least with my wheels. I think some itp wheels would save me some weight for sure.

11-15-2013, 10:46 AM
I might do the 520 conversion on my buggy. I was talking to lance with sprocket specialist and they can go all the way down to 11T front sprocket[smilie=shocked.gif] I currently run a 13T 525 size, and thats the smallest I could find anywhere for 525.

11-15-2013, 10:50 AM
Yesterday I found a nice straightaway and punched it was doing 75 mph in 6th gear at 10 grand still had about 3000 rpm to go. So I am seriously considering lowering my gearing again. I think that is more than fast enough, its ridiculous. We'll see

Up north
11-15-2013, 10:54 AM
Yesterday I found a nice straightaway and punched it was doing 75 mph in 6th gear at 10 grand still had about 3000 rpm to go. So I am seriously considering lowering my gearing again. I think that is more than fast enough, its ridiculous. We'll see

Wow that's hauling dude! Does it take long to get up to that speed?

11-15-2013, 10:58 AM
only when the wheels wont stop spinnin[smilie=haha2.gif]

11-15-2013, 11:00 AM
no, it gets up and GOES! its fast.

Up north
11-15-2013, 11:05 AM
Yesterday I found a nice straightaway and punched it was doing 75 mph in 6th gear at 10 grand still had about 3000 rpm to go. So I am seriously considering lowering my gearing again. I think that is more than fast enough, its ridiculous. We'll see

Wow that's hauling dude! Does it take long to get up to that speed?

Up north
11-15-2013, 11:06 AM
Oops double post

Up north
11-15-2013, 11:07 AM
no, it gets up and GOES! its fast.

That is awesome! I just want to go for a ride in a fast buggy to get my blood pumping!

11-15-2013, 11:13 AM
It also gives you perma-grin:D

I couldnt understand why my face hurts after I go riding, then I took my daughter for a ride and only heard laughter. I thought thats cool she's having fun, then I realized it was me haha. Actually it was her I just thought that sounded better me laughing like a little girl.

11-15-2013, 11:15 AM
I found a really kewl website that will calculate top speed based on bike and current tire size and sprocket sizes. Mine says 84.1 mph with current gear not sure if I can reach that based on hp numbers but theoretically that's what it'll do. Here's the link.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator (http://www.gearingcommander.com/)

Up north
11-15-2013, 11:20 AM
I found a really kewl website that will calculate top speed based on bike and current tire size and sprocket sizes. Mine says 84.1 mph with current gear not sure if I can reach that based on hp numbers but theoretically that's what it'll do. Here's the link.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator (http://www.gearingcommander.com/)

Whooo that's hauling!!! Could prob gear down alittle and pick up some acceleration and bottom/mid range

11-15-2013, 11:20 AM
Another added bonus to having a little HP turning is super easy. Slight turn the wheel and hit it, then correct steering in other direction as the rear tires are trying to pass the front end.

11-15-2013, 11:22 AM
Thats what I am thinking.

11-15-2013, 01:58 PM
Lugs, The ITP Paddle tire is 26-11x12. I'd say that the wheel and tire are about 18-20. I used a Walmart scale so it may not be totally accurate. But they are pretty light.

Imagine knocking off another close to 40 lbs. off your tires and you'll feel the difference, especially in the dunes.
On a bike, the rule usually is every 7lbs. you lose off the bike, you gain a Horse.

I'm not sure about the 520 setup. I used to run 520 on my street bikes growing up, Ive had pretty much all of them. I busted a couple of 520 chains and kinked a few also. Definitely a weight difference, but its scary when a chain bust and goes flying over your head and in front of you!
I'd think the torque of the engine as to the weight of the buggy would give you problems with the chain in the future, You'd probably be adjusting it more often until it gets fully stretched. I could be wrong.

Hey when you get a chance can you take a look at my thread. I did the Monroe shock clamp mod, I wanted to see if thats the same as yours. I ended up cutting some radiator hose in 2 halfs and using that under the clamp. On yours you said you used a piece of leather.
So far its been holding air for the last few days while sitting in the shop, No leaks.

75MPH is ripping on that little thing. Now imagine doing that same speed going through the whoops! Your grin muscles won't be soar, but your Booty Clinching Muscles will!

Mine doesn't get past 55MPH, but with Up Norths observations on the drive belt being worn and needing to replace, hopefully I can get it up a few MPH. Im Happy with 55 though, I just want it to maintain that speed through the whoops.

11-15-2013, 10:12 PM
55mph is still fast. I was cruising a long straight dirt road. As far s the weight on a Walmart scale it cant be that far off. The weight difference is close to double of what the itp set up is. That would definitely make a difference in the sand especially when goin uphill. I bet most of the time im only cruising around doin about 25 mph. When your 15" above the ground and out in the wind everything feels a lot faster.

11-16-2013, 07:21 PM
I used to ride dirt bikes (RMs ) in the woods and on some trails( old abandoned timber Co. railroad right away without bridges but with erosion and creeks. I'd lose track what gear i was in sometimes and sometimes be tapped out in 6th gear which clocked on a wide, straight dirt road by a pickup truck was 90+. Speed only counts if you hit something. Its those sudden stops that cause the end of your dirt bike riding and why i now have a buggy with a cage.

11-16-2013, 07:35 PM

11-16-2013, 07:37 PM

11-16-2013, 07:38 PM

11-19-2013, 06:48 PM

11-19-2013, 06:48 PM

11-19-2013, 06:49 PM

11-19-2013, 06:49 PM

11-19-2013, 06:51 PM
While I was doing my post ride check I found something!

I have heard what these chains can do when they give, glad I caught this.

Nice little crack.http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/lug-nuts/IMAG0032_zps18af9832.jpg

11-19-2013, 07:16 PM
Wow, great find! That's a needle in the hay stack sort of find. I don't think I've ever checked a chain that carefully.

Broken chains = broken cases = bad day [smilie=banghead.gi:

11-19-2013, 07:43 PM
Your tellin me. Lucky, lucky

11-19-2013, 11:48 PM
Yikes! is that the 520?

Rack looks good. Now it is an Expedition Buggy, Camping and fishing! Nice!

11-20-2013, 10:56 AM
No, it's a 525.

I should have bought a new one, but I used the one the bike came with. I know, I know that's a no-no. I did get quite a but of riding out of it.

That could have cost me big time if it would have broken on me while riding.

I guess now I'll just put it on the annual maintenance list (new chain) regardless of wear they aren't as expensive as fixing a hole in the block.

11-21-2013, 02:03 PM
True, Good thing you caught it in time. You did get a good run out of that chain.

Have you tried less PSI in the Monroes yet to see if they are not so stiff since you've removed the Res.

11-21-2013, 02:56 PM
True, I did get quite a bit out of it. Lesson learned, nothing broken new chain on the way.

I did let some air out, and it rode a lot better. Im running 85 psi:)

11-22-2013, 05:56 PM

Got my chain fro Santa today, oddly enough he was dressed like a FedEx guy...weird....!http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/lug-nuts/IMAG0040_zpsfab125b6.jpg

11-22-2013, 07:59 PM

11-22-2013, 08:30 PM
That is weird. I thought santa dressed in brown and drove a brown truck.;)

11-23-2013, 11:32 PM
Well thats what I always thought, guess his brown suit was getting cleaned. Not sure where his brown truck was???

01-04-2014, 09:55 PM
New chain installed

Stator cover replaced (minor leak from previous owner -cracked)

New lower motor mounts installed




01-05-2014, 10:17 AM
Next upgrade, fuel tank, relocate rear seat belt mounts, remove original rear shock mounts.

See you then!

01-05-2014, 02:03 PM
Hey Lugs, are you running a reverse?

Is it just me or does that chain look really tight? How much deflection do you set it up with?