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Speedybug24
01-14-2012, 03:21 PM
25076

would this work i need some help for the inside how to find a way to secure the axle inside i would rather this than the lot of laser cutting and this seems cheaper and easier

of course id be adding alot more support for it but you get the idea i:cool:

if theres anywhere with pics or thread like this could you link me

any help would be very much appreciated thanks

nutz4sand
01-14-2012, 11:37 PM
How much power are you gonna ask it to deal with(??) and the weight matters to but we can kinda guess a typical Piranahas weight. Unless your sure a six spline hex will do.

You are asking mostly on how to hold the axle in the middle to keep it from going left or right while it spins?

Could gun drill it down the middle and secure with a bolt to each flange side. Other ways are cut a groove on each side and get a circlip to hold it.

nutz4sand
01-14-2012, 11:41 PM
Also a simple hole drilled and tapped in each end to secure the flange on with a bolt for each side would near mimic how VW uses to hold thier flanges on. Just use good red or really good blue locktite.

Twigster
01-15-2012, 03:25 AM
I think hes asking what goes on inside the "Bearing carrier", Its basically just a machined tube with bearings push fitted into each end which hold the splined bar. Like this:
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h366/Alexward1994/bearingcarrierdemo.jpg

Speedybug24
01-15-2012, 03:46 AM
Yes nutz4sand that's a great help so drill and tap holes in the splined shaft then put the hubs over and secure with a screw and washer ? Oh and I'd be looking it to carry 600 gsxr,cbr,zx6 etc? Could it carry it ?;)

Twigster would the bearins have an outer flange going around the outside the carrier tube? Then the two Huns holding them in? Sorry it probably sounds stupid lol[smilie=sleep.gif]

nutz4sand
01-15-2012, 10:37 AM
Try to get a peek at a old VW IRS diff with the flanges off. Its just a drilled and tapped hole that a bolt goes into to hold the flange onto the splines. The CV flanges should have a lil shoulder to hit the bearings inner rotating surface. Thus no rubbing non moving surfaces of course.

With the center tube machined to hold the bearings it should not be able to move back and forth if done right.

Speedybug24
01-15-2012, 10:41 AM
I see how would I get the bearings to stay in the bearing carrier?

nutz4sand
01-15-2012, 11:18 AM
You gotta figure outt the shaft size first the flanges will be on.

Then you find bearings that fit OVER that shaft that can handle the RPM's and the loads they will need to deal with. (Good bearings seals too if you want them to last. Spend a few more on better seals as its cheaper than cheap ones that fail and ruin a weekend of run and damage other $$$ parts!!)

Then you find a tube thats bigger around than the bearings on the tubes outside. But smaller on the tubes inside diameter than the bearings outside.

Then you or you have somone turn the tube on a lathe and cut a opening in the tube for a press fit of the bearing(or bearings if you run two on each end of the shaft) into the tube.

If you look at Twigsters pic above you can see the pink tube has material cut away and the bearings are pressed into it. Thats what you need to do.

This would be easy-peasy for any machine shop or anyone with a lathe who even half knows what they are doing with it.

nutz4sand
01-15-2012, 11:19 AM
Err I meant to say red tube. Flanges are pink.. (I got pink on the brain.... :p)

Speedybug24
01-15-2012, 11:24 AM
Now I definitely know what to do know! Lol

What material do you think I should make the bearing carrier out of ?
There is a Cnc milling/lathe about 5mins from me but they only work with stainless steel would this be durable enough??

I'm annoyed too lol had a chance at getting a lathe for 120 but when I rang the guy sold it 10 mins before I did ring:(

Speedybug24
01-15-2012, 11:24 AM
Now I definitely know what to do know! Lol

What material do you think I should make the bearing carrier out of ?
There is a Cnc milling/lathe about 5mins from me but they only work with stainless steel would this be durable enough??

I'm annoyed too lol had a chance at getting a lathe for 120 but when I rang the guy sold it 10 mins before I did ring:(

nutz4sand
01-15-2012, 11:37 AM
The materal can be made thicker if need be for strength.

Need to be able to weld it or somehow attach it so that it is held where you need it. Stainless could work. I have seen DOM tube used and even Black Pipe steel for this part.

Some guys use Quad rear bearing carriers at they already have the bearing spaces cut and if you plan the build right the shaft might even fit the stock quad bearings (BIG plus)

Plus with all the different means quads hold thier rear ends in place with chances are you might find one thats super easy to mount for your application.

Speedybug24
01-15-2012, 12:30 PM
im gonna go with stainless steel as its cheap to get it machined etc what thickness would you recommend?

nutz4sand
01-15-2012, 12:44 PM
I tend to go a lil thicker but I am a big guy and hard on stuff so the extra meat makes it last vs tinfoil stuff.

The type of steel (even stainless has types) mkes a differance. When in doubt go thicker.

After the outside edge of the bearings you will use I would not be comfy with less than 3.5 to 4mm or 0.138 inch of tube (or just over 1/8th of an inch) Again I would use a little more given the option.

Even more on a heavier buggy with a bigger motor.

Speedybug24
01-15-2012, 01:13 PM
ill probably go 4-5mm then i tend to thrash stuff too lol

Bullnerd
01-15-2012, 01:30 PM
I dont know much about these little center sections.Does anyone use a spacer between the bearings to set the preload?Hate to see Speedbug crank down on the bearings and put a butload of side force on them.

nutz4sand
01-15-2012, 01:54 PM
I dont know much about these little center sections.Does anyone use a spacer between the bearings to set the preload?Hate to see Speedbug crank down on the bearings and put a butload of side force on them.

Yes you would either want a carefully measured and cut spacer in the middle between the bearings inner races or to have the flanges floating on the shaft with the bolt holding them on but the tiniest bit loose.

RickS.
01-15-2012, 05:48 PM
You'd need to get the spacer perfect. Tiny float with no spacer is best IMO.
Center spool should never see much side load if everything I'd done right.

Bullnerd
01-15-2012, 06:01 PM
Sounds good.
We used to use these little spacers that where like shim stock pressed together into a washer.You just peel of what you dont need.

Speedybug24
01-17-2012, 02:27 PM
so just leave the hubs a little slack from the shaft if im picking this up right?

nutz4sand
01-17-2012, 02:41 PM
If you do not make the center bearing spacer then you need to have it so that the when the bolts holding the flanges on are tight it is not wiggling back and forth any but is NOT binding the bearings.

Speedybug24
01-17-2012, 03:04 PM
Ok so could just put a spacer on the screws to stop them drone binding with the bearings but still tight enough to hold th bits firm in place

nutz4sand
01-17-2012, 03:15 PM
Might work. A LOT of this depends on many things.

First off how much contact area will the flanges have on the shaft?

Where will the sprocket pull the load? Is it in the center of the flange on the shaft or off to one side of the flanges contact area on the shaft?

Many people make the sprocket side fixed to the shaft in some permanent way as the sprocket needs to run true. The disc brake will take care of itself (unless its pisspoor bad)

As long as you can get it apart from one side it will be repairable.

But the parts fit and the hardness of the metals over time may cause one part to wear as they wiggle a little.

Many ways to skin this cat. Its never to easy to build a good spool. Thats why the nice ones builders sell on this site are not to cheap.

But they are nice looking and strong.