View Full Version : st4 front a-arm

03-01-2011, 11:04 AM
My bushing,buching liner,are all made and now i try to find some rectegular tube 1-1/2 x 3/4 x 0.083 wall for my a-arm and is impossible to find that material a the metal supplyer.that's suck :mad:.so wath kind of materal is the same strength and will fit.a prefer square or rectegular ( i like the L:p:pk )

[smilie=tr_sorry.gi: for bad spelling

thank you!

03-01-2011, 01:16 PM
I may be mistaken but a arms should be square or round, I have never seen rectangular a arms

03-01-2011, 03:32 PM
Not sure why Badlands used that size. The problem you will now have is finding something to fit the bushing tubes you've already made.
Their short length limits you to the 3/4" wide tubing. These tubes IMO should have been longer. Then you could use larger (Round 1" minimum) tube. I'm not even sure how Badlands expect you to weld along the 1 1/2" side of the rectangular tubing (If you were able to get it.)
There is less than 1/8" from that tube to the ends of your bearing tubes for weld. that doesn't make for a very good weld. Unless you're good with tig.

03-01-2011, 06:46 PM
i no wath you meen ricks, i think i will go 1 inch pipe but the probleme i will have it's the attachement will grind on the a-arm......i'm stuck with that.:confused:

03-01-2011, 07:50 PM
I had the same problem trying to find it. I'm going to be talking to RickS in the next few weeks about some ideas I have to change the a-arms to a more common size tubing (1" .120 dom).

03-01-2011, 08:17 PM
You should be able to use 1 1/4 round, with 1/2" heims. That was my plan. The spacing is perfect for the 1/2 heims with a little spacer if I remember correctly. Then you just bend up the arms or have someone bend them so that they are the same dims as the rectangle arms. Not to mention its far easier to build the arm where it connects the the spindle heim with round than it is with the rectangle tube.

But for those of you that are looking for smaller quantities in the states of metals try here:

Speedy Metals Online Industrial Metal Supply (http://www.speedymetals.com/default.aspx?gclid=CJfPsff_oJcCFQ7aDAodbiidJA)

03-01-2011, 08:34 PM
That should work.

03-01-2011, 08:41 PM
Here is a drawing....

ST4-Stuff - Assassin Fabrication (http://assassinfab.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=4)

03-01-2011, 10:02 PM
SO iinstead of makeing all those little bushings you would just use Heims for the ends?

03-01-2011, 11:22 PM
Yeah I would. Bushings are easier and cheap, but with the space and such, it would be easier to use Heims and 1 1/4 .120 wall tube for the lower A-Arm.

I stated earlier that I would use a 1/2 heim. I was wrong. I would use a 5/8 with spacers. After looking at my original notes. The MXM-10 rod end is .750" wide. This leaves .750" remaining, which is .375" per side. Purchase or make spacers. If you purchase them, they will have to be spun down 1/8 because the shoulder is .500" long. The other option is to buy some thick walled tube and spin them. I'm sure you can have someone such as KFAB or RickS spin them down. I can even draw them out in solid works and send you the file so you can have them CnC'd if you wish.

A bit more work, but in my opinion, the arm would be much stronger.

If you want to purchase spacers, you can get them here:

Kartek Off Road - High Misalignment Spacers (http://www.kartek.com/Product/Fabrication/Hi-Mis.html)

Part number: PRM-5812SRT
They are a bit long, so you would have to spin about .125" off the end.

03-02-2011, 12:23 AM
These would work great.

Johnny Joint® (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/johnnyjoints.aspx)

03-02-2011, 08:27 AM
Johnny joints are going to increase your cost 10x at least!! I would go with the heims as they are relatively affordable, check out shockmotorsports.com I have 1" .120 wall rod end kits complete with misalignment spacers for sale as well as 5/8 kits for 1 1/4" .120 wall

03-02-2011, 08:51 AM
I am setting up this car for woods racing. I want to have a greasable link so they last longer and somewhat sealed to keep the mud out.

03-02-2011, 06:23 PM
Stay away from the greasable joints for two reasons. The grease attracts dirt which will increase wear, and the second is that the grease zirk actually reduces the strength of your joint thus making it weaker. Stay with the heims. If you want to seal the dirt out, you can buy boots that fit over the joint and help to seal them up. The 5/8 kit for the 1 1/4 x .120 would work perfectly. You then just need the spacers that I spec'd to complete the installation.

03-03-2011, 07:21 PM
well,thank you for your good post and good idea. i will keep looking for the rectegular tubing.but i belive i will modify a bit.(round pipe)

03-03-2011, 11:37 PM
If you are set on that tube, then give Badlands a shout. He is up in Canada and may be able to point you in the right direction.

03-04-2011, 12:03 AM
Thinner but 4130: 4130 AIRFRAME SQUARE & RECTANGULAR TUBING MIL-T-6736 NORMALIZED from Aircraft Spruce (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130square.php)

03-04-2011, 01:32 AM
Check the link Aladdin Steel: Rectangular Steel Tubing (http://www.aladdinsteel.com/catalog/rectangular1.html)

03-04-2011, 04:29 PM
ho yes,good new's i found some in misissauga for 24 foot 250$ include border fee and shipp right at my door's. deal or no deal. i will try in montreal( quebec bigest city arrownd )
Allmetalsinc.com - Online Metal Sales - Order Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Brass Online. Cut-to-Size Metals. No Minimums. Fast Shipping. (http://www.allmetalsinc.com/)

03-04-2011, 08:13 PM
Michplo I guess I've been sleeping or not paying attenion "another eastern Canadian on the board" likley the latter. Have you tried Russel metals out of Halifax PH# 902 876 7861 if they don't have it they will get it for you . I talked to Ray Conrad on some Dom Tubing took a couple days for a quote but the prices seem to be in line with south of the border prices . Now that the dollar is par or better the price might be a little cheaper. I'm not sure but I think they have a metal yard in Saint John also don't know what part of N.B. your from but give them a shout they might have it in stock
Good luck Sodman

03-05-2011, 08:27 AM
I am setting up this car for woods racing. I want to have a greasable link so they last longer and somewhat sealed to keep the mud out.No you don't. You're just asking for problems.

Get a regular PTFE lined heim joint and be happy. They're cheap (relatively), they work perfectly for the given app and they'll last a darned long time.

One thing that so many seem to forget is that you want THE HEIM to be the weak link.

Big, bad-ass burly suspension components are great as long as you make it so that the big, bad-ass suspension component has SOMEPLACE to break when you hit the tree (which you will - trust me here...)

It's so much easier to sit by the side of the trail, pull out your wrench and remove the broken heim then replace it with a new one than it is to have to limp home with a tweaked suspension arm and have to deal with making a new one.


If you're running on a car that's less than 1K lbs, then go down to 1/2" heims. They're strong enough to do what ever you're expecting the suspension to put up with.

Stop over engineering this component of your buggy (I understand this mindset, so I'm not bashing) and go with the time tested and proven heim.

03-05-2011, 08:49 AM


As I told you in our emails, I used to run HUGE Heavy Equipment SO I got this mindset of BIGGER IS BETTER!! Be patient with me as I break my old habits.. I truly do appreciate all of the advice that this board brings so keep it coming.

03-05-2011, 09:16 AM
well, i try in edmuston at russel metal i gess it's the same and they never saw that. i will try that phone number thank's Sodman