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gibberogill
01-11-2009, 01:15 PM
Hi All,

Newby here. I recently broke my neck and am currently convalescing. My neurosurgeon told me ATV's are definitely OUT OF THE QUESTION!!! Dang. Since I've had nothing but time on my hands I have done quite a bit of research on minibuggies. I thought driving a vehicle with a long-travel suspension is what would still allow me to enjoy the outdoors safely (LOL). Plus, having a track width wider than a 4-wheeler would prevent me from going into areas where I would get into trouble (which hasn't been hard for me to do).

I've researched two-seater minibuggies. From what I can tell, the Rorty R16 shotgun should fit the bill nicely (any other suggestions out there?). I have a JD2 model 4 bender and "the beast" notcher coming. I have also recently bought a Millermatic synchrowave 200 tig welder and have a Millermatic 250 mig welder on loan from a brother-in-law.

So much for background information. What I need from all of you pros out there has to do with metal fab equipment. There is a local HVAC company bankruptcy auction where they are auctioning off brakes, notchers, benders, lockformers, roll formers and edgers. Do I need any of this stuff for doing body work? Is any of this stuff good to have around? I'd appreciate any educated input on this topic. I will keep everyone updated on progress as it is made and make it as detailed as is reasonable. Thanks in advance.

Gary G.

Gene
01-11-2009, 05:14 PM
Welcome to MBN Gary!

Rorty's R16 will be a terrific car. See the attachment for components available from MBN member Kludge (Frank).

Sounds like youhave a good start on tools. Yes, get more tools. If you can get deals on a break, shear, bead roller, notcher, etc. then scarf them up.

Where are you? I need a notcher and 28 inch shear. Could use a bead roller too.

Good luck and welcome to the safety of a roll cage!

gibberogill
01-17-2009, 08:37 AM
I tend to overbuild projects. No one likes to move the furniture I have built. When it comes to frame design, is there any advantage or disadvantage to using 0.120 wall thickness DOM tubing versus the 0.095? I thought a heavier buggy would absorb the bumps better due to the forces of inertia. I don't plan on driving like a bat out of purgatory.

Also, I have read a bit on using the Ecotec 2.2 motor with a FNR and CVT. I like that concept as my wife will more than likely drive this shoty as much as I will. Starting with the motor and ending with the hub, what are the exact parts as well as modifications needed to accomplish this type of drive? Thanks guys.

Gene
01-17-2009, 09:20 AM
Read Standfast's first build for information.

095 for most frame structure. Some recommend .120 for cage and suspension components. Others will suggest .120 chromo for suspension.

The car will weigh enough to give a great ride. Either Fox air or Fox coil over air will do the job well. The latter allows tons of adjustment, more than just Fox air shocks.

K-fab
01-17-2009, 01:07 PM
There's no need to up the size of the tubing to .120 wall. Rorty designed the cars very well and has used what is probably the best tubing for weight and strength.

The R16 is supposed to be a very good ride. I've not experienced one, but there have been many builds of them here on the site. Do a little searching about and you should be able to find all sorts of good info.

Welcome to the site, too.

TutTech
01-17-2009, 11:46 PM
Like others have said there are many builds of the R-16. Baja brothers did two of them
and they turned out great. They even race theirs down in Mexico and love them. They
have nothing but good things to say about them.

I use .120 because I race and it's the law. :D
But in my cars only the suspension mounts, shock mounts, tranny rails etc. are .120 and the rest
of my cars are .095 and I have never had the .095 crack or had any problems with the .095 and
my car probably weighs a ton. No seriously about a ton.[smilie=alright.gif]

As for the parts you asked it is up to you if you are going to do your own body etc. then it
sounds like you might use some of those pieces of equipment. But for frame building and
general building I use my sander/notcher more than any tool next to my welder and chop saw.
So really up to you and what you want to do or have done for you. Sorry not much help.


Welcome to the site and nice to see you asking questions and getting input that is always a
great idea especially with all the very smart and talented builders on this site. I am impressed
daily by all the awesome creations I see on here.

I look forward to seeing your build and please be careful with your neck and don't over do it.
;):)

gibberogill
01-18-2009, 07:50 AM
I guess you guys are right. I'll stick with the design specifications. I should have known the R16 would be engineered well as I just got done with the framing for my table. The plans specified 2x3x 0.25 rectangular tubing!!! Way over kill. Yes, I used what was specified and then added two extra cross-members just for good measure. I'll get pics as soon as I sweep out the garage.

gibberogill
01-19-2009, 12:10 AM
Hey, does anyone have an idea how to attach the MDF to the quarter-inch wall tubing I used. I'd prefer not having to drill and tap each hole. This step wasn't specified in the plans. I had thought about welding 1/8" tabs where I could use self-drilling countersunk screws. Using a flat plate steel top is cost-prohibitive if I am to keep within my budget. Thanks for your suggestions.

standfast
01-19-2009, 07:56 AM
You can just use self drilling countersink screws with a fine thread. You may still want to pre-drill though if you have issues with cheap screws breaking. Just make sure the drill tips on the screws are as long or longer than your metal thickness.

Montanaminirail
01-19-2009, 11:48 AM
I used Lath screws and they worked great. They are self drilling screws with a 1/4 drill tip and are readily availible at Lowes. Just need to countersink the MDF for the screw head.

gibberogill
01-20-2009, 10:51 PM
Here is what I came up with for a work table. I used a piece of MDF 5'x10'x0.75". I also pre-drilled and chamfered all the holes prior to screwing it down with torx metal screws. Here are a few pics of the table and the screws I finally went with. Thanks for all of your suggestions.

gibberogill
01-20-2009, 11:12 PM
Oh, by the way, here are a few pics of my mig and tig welders, my JD2 bender and "the beast" notcher. I left the last two feet of my table to be used for attaching the notcher and for other jigs.

Gene
01-20-2009, 11:15 PM
That notcher is a beast. Where did you get it, how much and what angles can it achieve?

plkracer
01-21-2009, 12:09 AM
That notcher is a beast. Where did you get it, how much and what angles can it achieve?


It's a JD2 beast notcher. Van Sant Enterprises carries it for a price. I think it can do 50-60 degrees? A real plus is that you can notch in the center of a bend, say if you are doing a arms and want to put a bung in the middle of a 180 degree bend.

gibberogill
01-22-2009, 05:24 PM
I thought I would display a couple of pics of what I accomplished today. I drew the plans for the lower frame on the table. I will put cleats along the marks every 12 inches or so. I hope this will allow me to know whether or not I am bending each tube correctly. I will then tac weld this bottom frame together. Then, I will repeat the process for the middle and top frames. I really like how it looks.

gibberogill
02-04-2009, 10:53 PM
Well, its been a while since I last posted. I got all of my tubing and started the first of three frame layers. I needed a piece of 1.5 x 0.120 DOM for the transom tube. I only had chromemoly in this size. After researching a bit on this site as well as a few welding sites, I found that I could attach the DOM tubing to the chrome moly tubing by TIG welding them using ER70S-2 filler rod. I tacked them together using a mig welder and finished with the TIG. One of the pictures below is of one of my welds on that tube.

This was my first experience using the JD2 Model 4 bender. After figuring out the initial starting degrees and then the number of springback degrees, the bending went pretty well. The one problem I have had was keeping everything level. I ordered a digital angle finder from Van Sant with the mounting bracket. It should be here tomorrow and I hope that will make the process that much easier. I just have to figure out how to use it.

It might not be apparent from the pictures, but the frame appears to have about a 1/4" rocker from bow to stern caused by the unequal heating of the tubing. Will this be easy to take out when I put the second layer on?

At this point I had read how Standfast had changed the framing around the Ecotec motor between the first and second layers. Thanks for your advice and sending the pics. The appropriate changes will be made.

This weekend, I plan on working on the second layer and the cross-bracing between the two layers. I'll update you all then.

gibberogill
02-04-2009, 11:23 PM
Oh, by the way, I contacted Frank Berry of Minybuggysupply.com (Kludge). I have received the laser cut parts for the R16 shotgun II. I am extremely impressed as to the workmanship/quality of these parts. Everything fits together precisely and as you can see from the second picture below, there is little to no work to get these parts to fit together well.

I was so impressed that I also ordered the machined parts kit. He was extremely amiable to talk with and was willing to be a resource person to help make this project a rewarding and successful endeavor. THANKS FRANK!!!

dunerocket
02-05-2009, 05:24 AM
I wouldn't weld the joints like that until you have both layers and bracing done. Just tack it all together at points that can easily be ground off so you can take the tubes apart. Only exception is that you may want to weld the joint that gets coverd by the next tube. That should help eliminate the warping.

N8ball
02-05-2009, 08:02 AM
Yeah. Ditto on what Dunerocket said. Tack the whole chassis together before welding it. Then when you do weld it up, only weld a 1/2" max per joint at a time. Move around doing little 1/2" welds on different intersections. If you weld each tube all the way around at one time you WILL have warping to deal with. Unfortunately, sometimes the only way to deal with it is to start over. If it were me(and trust me, it was me trying to force parts together) I would cut the bow tubes off and try again. I had alignment issues with the front end of my Shotgun, and ended up cutting the mid layer apart, and all the bracing out, and cutting the bow tubes off of the lower layer. Frustrating? Yes, but a little tweaking and I got it straight. I thought about the time and money I was commiting to this project, and it made sense to do it right, so that the end product would reflect the investment. Just my $.02.

standfast
02-05-2009, 09:25 AM
Just clamp your bottom layer flat to the table before attaching the 2 layers to help straighten them out. Leave it clamped down for the rest of the frame build up. Just FYI, if you just tack on the sides of the tubes not on the top and bottoms you won't bow the frame. This leaves it relaxed so you can cinch it all down to the table with a bunch of clamps to tack it. Keep in mind, the worse the fit up is (gaps to weld up) the more warping you will get so it pays to get the notches as best as you possibly can, even if it means scrapping a piece and starting over.

N8ball
02-05-2009, 05:01 PM
Standfast, that sounds like good advice. Another tidbit I have found helpful is to cut and notch the longest parts first. That way when something isn't just right, you can probably still use it for a shorter tube elsewhere.

gibberogill
02-05-2009, 05:02 PM
Thanks guys for the tips. I knew about the effect of too much heat. I had a buddy come over and asked to help. He is a pretty good welder. While I went to get some supplies, he took it upon himself to finish welding the tubing together. Surprise, surprise, surprise!!!

I might try using a little heat underneath the back end of the bow tubes just to see if I can nudge them down a bit. Then I think I will take Standfast's advice and clamp everything down until the entire frame is tacked together. And yes, I will lock the garage and keep the well-meaning friends away.

N8ball
02-06-2009, 07:24 AM
I'm sure it will work out for you. I don't have too many friends that fab or weld so when anyone comes by the shop to help, I usually get less done than I would have without their "help". Funny how that works. They always mean well and I appreciate that.

Keep up the good work, you're getting there.

plkracer
02-07-2009, 12:17 AM
I'm sure it will work out for you. I don't have too many friends that fab or weld so when anyone comes by the shop to help, I usually get less done than I would have without their "help". Funny how that works. They always mean well and I appreciate that.

Keep up the good work, you're getting there.

Same here... I'll let them do small projects, but it always seems that something is not quite right. It's not their fault because they don't really know what a part needs to confrom to or how it needs to fit, but sometimes it is nice to have a friend there, even if all they want to do is stare at your work.

sodman
02-07-2009, 05:28 AM
As far as the friend thing most just come to stare or see how the project is going and to chat and shoot the s*** for a while maybe a beer or two or three. It's all fun but you do not get much accomplished.
Have fun with it and keep posting pics
Sodman

plkracer
02-07-2009, 06:00 AM
As far as the friend thing most just come to stare or see how the project is going and to chat and shoot the s*** for a while maybe a beer or two or three. It's all fun but you do not get much accomplished.
Have fun with it and keep posting pics
Sodman


I don't have it that good yet. Another year and a half before I'm legal. :) That's pretty much all we do around my place too. Ride the motorbikes around, shoot clays, build jumps, potato cannons, and so on.

gibberogill
02-07-2009, 07:38 AM
Last evening, that project friend of mine came over to see how things were progressing. I told him of the suggestions (the nice ones) I got from you guys about only tacking the frame together until it was all up, squared and any necessary modifications made. I also told him of welding only 1/2" at a time at each joint. Thanks again guys. We both tried to come up with ways to fix the bow tube problem. Nothing we tried solved the warping. I was called into work so our efforts were cut short.

I was up last night around midnight after delivering a baby and figured out how to fix the bow tube problem. I had tried heating the tubing and shrinking the long side. It didn't seem to work like it does on other shapes of steel I have used that trick on. So, I clamped the transom tube to the table frame with some C-clamps. I then placed a 2 x 3 inch tube under the frame right where the bow tubes meet the rest of the frame. Lastly, I used some pipe clamps to pull the bow tubes toward the table. IT WORKED [smilie=ecstatic.gi:[smilie=ecstatic.gi:!! The frame sits perfectly on the table.

I still couldn't sleep so I decided to draw out the second layer full-scale on the work table. I can't emphasize how important I have found this to be not only on this project but also on other furniture projects I have built in the past. I found another error in the plans which was easily adjusted at this stage. Today, if I am able to get some time, I will build the second layer. And yes, it will only be tacked together. Pics will be forth comming.

Gene
02-07-2009, 10:18 AM
Sounds great! Are you communicating the errors back to Rorty?

gibberogill
02-09-2009, 08:20 PM
Well, I've got pictures of the progress I made this weekend. For all of you Shotgun builders, let me give you a few areas where I found measurements not accurate (or at least on the build I am working on). I don't know if it is because my measuring skills are off but here is my experience nonetheless.

To give you a little background, I drew both layers directly over each other at full scale on the MDF top. My thinking was that when I went to position the middle layer over the bottom layer, I could use a carpenter's square to accurately position them in three-dimensions.

1. Drawing 06B--notice that the bow tubes on this middle layer have a different length if you look at the upper drawing (27 inches) and compare to the lower drawing (24.9 inches). I had to tear these tubes off and lengthen them to the 27 inch size. Even at this, I was still off by about an inch. I would make these bow tubes 28 inches. In the first picture below, the edge of the square should be at the back line on the mdf. This picture was taken after I lengthened the tubes 2 inches.

2. Drawing 07B--notice the tube that appears to be at a 90* in the middle of the upper drawing. This upright tube is supposed to join the middle and lower frame at a bend in these frames. To join the frames, I had to make this upright tilt at an angle of 75*. When superimposed on each other, this bend was not on top of each other. See the second picture below.

3. Drawing 07B--The upright at a 97* angle towards the back end was how much wider the middle frame was over the bottom frame. The angle I got to attach the transom tube to the middle tube at the bend was 107* (and this was when the bow tubes of the middle layer were 27 inches instead of 28 inches where the middle frame would have aligned with the full-scale drawing).

By the way, I ordered my Ecotec 2.2liter from Jim's Auto Salvage and Sales. Their address is: 1707 George Street, Sandusky, OH 44870. Mark is the guy who offered to make this deal to others. His direct phone number is 1 (419) 602-1304. Be sure to ask for Mark. I got my motor for $348.00 with harness, electronic distributor, ignition switch, title. He said everything needed to make the engine run would be included. Mark says he is unable to sell these engines and will sell them for the same price I got mine for.

To ship this motor, I went to uShip.com. This is a website where freight companies bid for your cargo. My cost was $148 to have it shipped from Sandusky Ohio to Nampa Idaho. Both Mark at Jim's Auto Salvage and Tanya at uShip were extremely helpful and coordinated everything from their end. It will be picked up tomorrow and will arrive next week.

In the third picture, it appears everything is lining up fine. I couldn't do without my "The Beast" notcher from JD2. After getting the hang of the Model 4 tubing bender from JD2, I am very pleased with the quality of the bends I have been getting. I like that the bends are repeatable when making similar parts.

gibberogill
02-09-2009, 08:24 PM
Oh yeah, my motor is a 2008 with only 1000 miles on it.[smilie=ecstatic.gi:[smilie=jumping.gif]

Gene
02-09-2009, 08:29 PM
Very nice. Engine prices will rise after he figures out there is a market! You got a smokin' deal.

standfast
02-09-2009, 10:54 PM
Good deal on the engine!

Just FYI, Ecotecs don't have distributors. The crank angle input is in the side of the block and it is coil on plug ignition. He might have thought the power steering pump was a distributor because it sits right where the honda distributor is, off the cam.

Also, a 2008 motor is probably drive by wire meaning the throttle body would not have a throttle cable because it was electronicly controled by a special pedal with a posistion sensor and a electric motor at the throttle body. You may have to get a cable operated throttle body off an older ecotec.

N8ball
02-10-2009, 07:46 AM
"1. Drawing 06B--notice that the bow tubes on this middle layer have a different length if you look at the upper drawing (27 inches) and compare to the lower drawing (24.9 inches)."

Those dimensions are different because they are taken from different points. The shorter dim is the length of tube before the bend, the longer one is to the imaginary centerline of the wheel.

"2. Drawing 07B--notice the tube that appears to be at a 90* in the middle of the upper drawing. This upright tube is supposed to join the middle and lower frame at a bend in these frames."

Those were the same tubes that told me I had not aligned something properly. Though they were leaning to the driver side, they were still vertical when veiwed from the side of the car. After going back and reworking a few things, they lined up perfectly plumb.

"3. Drawing 07B--The upright at a 97* angle towards the back end was how much wider the middle frame was over the bottom frame. The angle I got to attach the transom tube to the middle tube at the bend was 107*"

I would hesitate to blame the drawings, but it sounds like something may not be 100% correct. Not sure what, but a 6 pack and a tape measure would be a good start to figuring it out.

gibberogill
02-10-2009, 08:25 PM
Nate, I went back and looked at the drawings and you are absolutely right about #1. I still can't figure out the other two. I know many Shotguns have been built and I have been the only one to find these problems. I am sure it is my error but it is beyond me where I may have screwed up.

In my case, I doubt a six-pack would do me any good as I seem to be fairly brain dead as it is. Oh well, just another learning experience.

But, if I was to leave the frame alignment as it is and just make sure the suspension was per plan, do any of you think I would have any problems that I am unaware of?

magnum4598
02-10-2009, 08:31 PM
gene i can get deals on bead rollers from harbor friehgt i have a store here in town they have a nice one with all the dies
i bought one love it cheap price look them up on line

gibberogill
02-24-2009, 09:51 PM
Well, after a posting hiatus, I am back and have made some progress in the interim. I have nearly finished the second layer and have only run into minor problems. Now I am on to the third layer. I have a question about roof height. I really don't like the "boxy" look of the Shotgun and would like to stream line it a bit. I have read elsewhere (and don't ask me where) about lowering the roof 5.5 inches. Are there any safety or structural issues I need to consider? I am 5' 11" tall and the manual states the Shotgun can accomodate a driver 6' 7". If there are no significant issues, I think I will go that route. Any Shotgun builders with experience on this?

Someday, I hope to learn from the experiences of others and not have to re-invent the wheel. By this I am referring to the engine area of the frame. After re-reading Standfast's thread, I should have left out the internal engine compartment bracing as outlined in the plans. Oh well, not too big of a booboo but one that could have been avoided.

My Ecotec motor arrived last week and was exactly as represented. Getting it here was a very positive experience using uship.com. This is a site where I listed my cargo, and even gave the ebay item number. It came from Ohio and was shipped to Boise, Idaho. Freight companies then bid on my cargo and so I got it here for $128.00. This saved nearly $200.00 over what the seller found as a low price locally. The people at Uship took care of picking up the cargo and coordinating all aspects of this transaction.

I'll keep you all updated as progress is made. BTW, I received all of the machined parts from Kludge (aka Frank Berry). I am very impressed by the precision of the parts he sent. I feel his Shotgun parts packages 1 and 2 were well worth his asking price. Frank, when is the website going to be up?[smilie=whistle.gif][smilie=whistle.gif][smilie=dunno.gif]

Gene
02-24-2009, 10:17 PM
The cage on the R82 is tall like the Shotgun. It's pretty much the same car only the R16 has true A-arms and a longer wheelbase.

I find the R82 more difficult to enter than my other car. With theR82 I have to stand on the seat and with the SST based frame I can place my foot on the floor and then get in the car. I'd prefer not to stand on the seat.

I understand that lowering the roof might make it better looking. Before making a final decision put the seat in the car and "install" tubing where the roof is intended to be and then where you want it. Climb in and out of the car.

Realize that getting in and out of the car is different when it is complete. I have to have a place to step and each of my cars has a rail. That helps. Getting into a car without a step provides plenty of laughs for observers.

In any case getting in and out is or should be a consideration. Experiment to understand the consequences.

Radiodude
02-26-2009, 09:34 AM
Gene's right about ease-of-use. I'm 6'2" and could easily hack 5" out of the top of my shotgun (and still may do it).. the tradeoff is, however, it'll be that much tougher to enter and exit. If you build it to spec, it's really pretty easy to get in and out of- the side opening is huge. For me, I need to keep it easy for my wife to get in and out, and to be able to lean in and belt-up the kids.. But, that huge side opening is bad if you're going to race.. I gotta figure out a window net setup to stay safe when I occassionally race the car.. It's a judgement call.. If I was at your stage of build, I'd take 3" off the B pillars, and 4" off the A pillars to lower and rake the roof.. not-as-boxy cool looks and still pretty functional. Another thought if you do drop the roof is to weld small 'steps' onto the side rail to stand on for entry/exit.. great car whichever way you go..

XRH348
02-26-2009, 02:07 PM
if you have the lower and middle layers complete, what about fabbing up your modded look using wooden dowels or plastic plumbing pipe. you wont be bending and hacking into expensive DOM tube.

just my 2 cents worth

spud nut
12-30-2012, 01:10 PM
Hello, I have had the lucky opprotunity to aquire this project from this thread's originatior. Gibber did a great job laying out the beginnings of the frame. I got this frame from him about 2/3 complete. I have been collecting parts and with the christmas break off from school I have been able to get this going. I have spent the last 2 days finish welding and cleaning up my beginner welds. This is my first project like this and I am very excited and scared at the same time. I have read just about every Shotgun thread at least twice. The info you guys give has given me enough confidence to do this. Thank you.:D

I will try to attach some photos of the current state.

I have ordered my steering components and they should be hear in about a week. Then I will have a true rolling chassis.

spud nut
12-30-2012, 01:19 PM
Re-trying the pictures

LilChubby
12-31-2012, 10:00 AM
looking good. I'ts alway nice to see a project get saved.

Deranged
12-31-2012, 01:08 PM
This is awesome!! Congratulations on the project. Get going! Let us know if we can help you out in any way. It will be a blast once its done!!! Makes me want to go out right now!


Justin

spud nut
12-31-2012, 06:44 PM
Thanks for the support. I am going to need it. I have made some good progress the last couple of days. It is now fully welded and standing on it's own. I even pushed it across the shop and jumped on so that I could say I rode it. Today I added a 180* looped pipe on the rear for straps as well as the brackets I plasma cam'd for the front. I added nerf bars with a step so that it will be easier for my wife and I to get in and out. I also modified the front bumper. I just didn't like the way the original looked unfinished. I am out of parts now until the steering package gets here. Hopefully Monday.:o Now I need to save some pennies and find an RPM box. Those things are worth there weight in gold it seems. But if I have to get a new one It is what it is. It's just a big chunk out of a teacher's salary. As soon as I can get my hands on the FNR box I can start to mount the Engine.

Deranged
12-31-2012, 07:28 PM
I like the little things you did to the bumper. The nerf bars are a really cool touch. Looking back now, I should have done something like that, but a bolt on item,,,,,just in case things get crazy and wad them up. Let me know if you need any pictures on how to mount that RPM, hit me up. Yoshi makes the perfect bracket set-up for it. Build on!

Justin

TheDoc
01-10-2013, 05:26 PM
Hard to see but will you still get full up travel with the front bumper returns? Nice work place plenty of space there.

spud nut
01-12-2013, 04:34 PM
there is way more space than needed for the front wheels to stay away from the bumper.

I received all of my steering componants this week. But now FIRST robotics season has started and we have 6 weeks to design and build a robot to play Ultimate frisbee and then climb a jungle gym.. Time will be shot for buggy building.:(

spud nut
01-27-2013, 09:24 AM
I have a question. I have heard alot of talk about bump steer, but I really don't understand what that all means. If anyone cane help me out I would be greatful. I got my heim spreader and it is 11" ctr, to ctr. my A arms are 5.12 on the lower and 8.5 on the upper. Is this going to be an issue?

Chikin
01-27-2013, 09:51 AM
Bump steer is simple. When the suspension is at ride height the wheel will be strait.
So let's say you drop the ride height to 0 (suspension is maxed out..... Down) well bump steer will make the wheel not be strait any more. This is with zero input from the steering wheel.
It's just cycling the suspension and with the cycle up and down. Some thing has to give.
You may have great camber and Ackerman. But the wheel will still bump on the steering.


Say you get that same suspension to stop bump steer. Well the you could mess up the camber..... Or other things. All of these things and more are involved. You can't mess with only one.... You have to mess with all of them and come up with a balance. And it's not easy.

Lets say you have great camber castor Ackerman and toe. Ok great
Well the down fall is suspension travel. You have all of this great at 8 inches of travel but now you double the travel. Now you have 16 inches of travel. Well 75% of your cycle will look ok. But the last 25 will bump steer and toe as well. (This is only an example... Don't lock on the numbers I put jut a reference)

Here is a link to more info. Bump steer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bump_steer)

ironknot
01-27-2013, 08:31 PM
Ba-zinga, nice post Chick.

This is were Yoda has just lifted Luke's fighter out of the swamp. . . . Ha, lol [smilie=rofl.gif]

My turn

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/members/ironknot-albums-useful-pix-picture1695-bump-steer.png

This the height of the inside connection, the length of the link is the distance between both heights at a line drawn throught the spindle pivots on the outside and the arm pivots on the inside. This simple mean the arms and link and equal and centred relative to each other.

spud nut
01-28-2013, 08:28 PM
28527Thank you for all of the information. It has helped alot. The main question I am looking for advice on, is the pivot point of the heim spacer and tie rods. As shown in the drawing of my existing set up and what my gut is saying in the proposed setup. Will the pivot point being not lined up cause any steering issues?
:confused:

CARLRIDDLE
01-29-2013, 05:23 AM
Both would work. Also depends on where tierod pivots at wheel spindle. If you use the one where they line up in middle, then they must line up at wheel.(this gives no ackerman) The top drawing is the correct layout for ackerman on a buggy with the rack in front of spindles.

Bullnerd
01-29-2013, 06:30 AM
We just went over this in another thread?I forget which one?

Spud-think about this,the inner tie rod end should be located at the center of the arc created by the outer tie rod end.Doesnt matter where your outer ends up,thats a different/packaging issue.

I'll find the thread/s when I get home.

You can start with Skriekems build thread,theres a butt load of info in it.

spud nut
01-29-2013, 07:33 AM
Thank you very much. That info makes me feel alot more confident that I got the right pieces. I love how this forum gives such generous help without the beginers feeling intimidated to ask what they feel may be a stupid question and getting crucified for it.

Bullnerd I look forward to that link.

Chikin
01-29-2013, 08:17 AM
Hey spud. When I posted a video of my car at the dunes. Wasn't much and it was blurry.
Crap if you ask me. But some one posted it here. I found site because of the info on you tube like who's way hung your videos. That was the best thing that came out of it.
I didn't know any thing about suspension and well I signed up and posted pics

It's because of the members on this site and the advice I am where I am on my car. I now know what I'm doing (I hope) because of the great advice here. So I totally agree with you on that.

Deranged
01-29-2013, 04:02 PM
Here is a picture of my shotgun front end. The spacer is just like your proposed solution. Works great! The last 1.5" of travel it toes in MAYBE 5/16". Hope this helps.

Justin

spud nut
01-29-2013, 04:45 PM
Awsome, I think that confirms my thoughts on the subject. Knowing that this system works on the same buggy makes me want to use the spacer I have and use it as a model to draw up a shorter one. I can then machine out a new one and then maybe sell the one I have to recoup some costs. One step closer now.

Now as soon as the robotics build season is over I can get back to work on it.

Thanks for the help.
:)

skreikem
01-29-2013, 04:57 PM
Bullnerd helped me figure my stuff out big time! (as did alot of other members) it took a long time to figure out...

I may get corrected on this one but I think it goes like this
1) figure out tie rod lenght - this is the length between the connecting lines of inner pivots to the connecting line of the outer pivots
2) connect your proper length tie rod to your rack
3) put the suspension at a given travel and draw an arc across your spindle with the outer end.
4) move the suspension to a few different travels and draw a few more arcs. Where they intersect is where you mount your outer tie rod mount

I did mine in reverse ( my outer pivot was fixed and I needed to find where to mount the rack) but here's some pictures:

This one is ttginc's picture used to help me:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6CkrWzjBOdk/T9n9PS5Tw3I/AAAAAAAAJTg/Rl1UM-sbxRI/s1280/Zero_bumpsteer.jpg

This one is the arcs I drew to find the inner point (yours will find the outer point instead).
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QEyLJ14Lt9g/T9tOZuBiaEI/AAAAAAAABhw/gVIrg2vPUiU/s912/IMG_0395.JPG

Once it finally clicked, it's kinda simple but man before it clicked I was beating my head against the wall... ALOT :D

Bullnerd
01-29-2013, 07:44 PM
Yup thats the best picture of the cardboard method on the internet!

You did it the right way Skreikem!The outer tie rod is determined by the ackerman/package/disk clearance problem.Once you have the outer you find the inner with the arc method,using the already figured out tie rod length.

Heres a good spot to start reading,and Skreikem posted the pic above.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects-progress/16892-gsxr-powered-minilite-6.html#post239976

And here,to figure out the tie rod length.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects-progress/16190-roketa-lt-conversion-2.html#post224111

one more...

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/suspension-wheels-tires/18536-front-upright-examples-3.html#post255086

BTW ,your "proposed" sketch would work to figure out the tie rod lentgh,just draw a line between your outer upper and lower pivots,like you did on the inners,measure between them at the height of the rack,this is very close to your tie rod length.

spud nut
02-18-2014, 11:31 AM
Back on the shotgun. I got the heim spacer built and powder coated. I also pick up some seats off of craigs list this week end. I sold a couple of my R/C planes and bought a VW rail and modified it over this winter.

spud nut
02-18-2014, 11:40 AM
30687

30688

30689

30690

30691pics

kieran
02-19-2014, 02:42 AM
Love those rorty buggies great work with the build spud that's a sweet rail too!!

spud nut
11-24-2014, 11:09 PM
Well I took some advice from Cortes when he burned his ships so that they could not retreat back to Spain. So I sold my rail so that I would be forced to regain focus on the shotgun.

I decided after spending some time this summer with my rail in the sand, desert and mountains that I prefer the desert and mountain explore more. So I chose to switch from the CVT system that I have (trying to sell now) to a transaxle. I like to shift and use the transmission descending hills istead of totally using the brakes. So I had a transaxle built for the ecotec motor. I also just received my motor from AlphaFab on Friday. Shaun was excellent to work with and was a great help to a newbee.

So today I mated the transaxle to the motor and now have the pair suspended to start making permanent mounts tomorrow.

spud nut
11-24-2014, 11:54 PM
31547

31548

31549

31550pics resized

Xbird
11-25-2014, 02:49 AM
lookin good ....

I hear K-Fab's gonna pay us $0.25 for each picture in someone else's post that we direct link [smilie=sign_heya.g: ...
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/projects-progress/31547d1416898437-r16-shotgun-project-pic-1.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/projects-progress/31548d1416898437-r16-shotgun-project-pic-2.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/projects-progress/31549d1416898437-r16-shotgun-project-pic-3.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/projects-progress/31550d1416898445-r16-shotgun-project-pic-4.jpg

Deranged
11-25-2014, 10:57 AM
Now that is SWEET!!!!

Justin

spud nut
11-25-2014, 10:07 PM
Kind of a slow day today only got 2 of the 4 motor mounts in.

31551

31552

K-fab
11-27-2014, 02:47 AM
Nice stuff!

Man, you're serious about the engine mounts. Quarter plate?


I hear K-Fab's gonna pay us $0.25 for each picture in someone else's post that we direct link ... Huh... Was I drinking again? :P

Bullnerd
11-27-2014, 10:57 AM
Very cool!

Two things,

Doesn't someone make a different tail that is shorter and brings the shift linkage out the side of the tail, specifically for mid engine?

Is it ok to solid mount the tail housing? That little piece of casting looks like it will eventually crack?

Just guessing here though.

OH, yeah, what tranny is that?

spud nut
11-28-2014, 02:46 AM
Yes the front plate is quarter inch. I don't want anything to fail.

Bullnerd thanks for the thought about the hard mounting. I didn't think about that. The aluminum housing would be prone to cracking. I will see if I can find some eurathane to place between the housing and mount. I am thinking 1/4". Do you think that will be enough?

The trans axle is a vw type 1 rhino aluminum case with a super diff and wheedle gears inside. With 930's installed and a billet side plate. It was set up for the ecotec motor. The only transaxles with the side shift that I could find we're the mendeola type. They are awesome but a used one starts at about 6 grand and I was able to get this one for under 2,000. The tail extends out about 14".

jersdunz
11-28-2014, 09:41 AM
Yes the front plate is quarter inch. I don't want anything to fail.

Bullnerd thanks for the thought about the hard mounting. I didn't think about that. The aluminum housing would be prone to cracking. I will see if I can find some eurathane to place between the housing and mount. I am thinking 1/4". Do you think that will be enough?

The trans axle is a vw type 1 rhino aluminum case with a super diff and wheedle gears inside. With 930's installed and a billet side plate. It was set up for the ecotec motor. The only transaxles with the side shift that I could find we're the mendeola type. They are awesome but a used one starts at about 6 grand and I was able to get this one for under 2,000. The tail extends out about 14".


Spud who do I talk to about that gear box?
Where can we get one from?

spud nut
11-28-2014, 10:01 AM
I got the trans from Don's Bus Box. Don's Bus Box | (http://www.donsbusbox.com) Don was great to work with and it only took 2 weeks from the time I ordered the custom trans to it sitting on my doorstep. I taked with him on the phone and told him what I was doing. Then he asked specifics like vehicle size, weight, tire size etc. we then talked about gear ratios for the type of driving I was going to be doing and the top end speeds I wanted. He even threw in at no charge a clutch and pressure plate that he said would give out just before blowing up the gears as a safety back up for the transmission. It would be a lot cheaper to replace the clutch than the gears.

Xbird
11-28-2014, 10:38 AM
in regards to that rear mount, you might want to oversize the bolt hole on the mounting plate and have a urethane spacer around the bolt as well to take up any lateral movement.

Bullnerd
11-28-2014, 11:28 AM
Yeah, I don't know the proper way to mount it, just mentioning it looks like a possible problem. Maybe ask the guy you got the trans from?

spud nut
11-28-2014, 01:25 PM
I appreciate that. I think you are right, even though that aluminium mount is about a 1/2" thick I think the soft mount there would be the safe play.
Thanks for your input that is why I put stuff on here so that people can keep me honest.

alex_buggy
11-28-2014, 02:00 PM
wow man i don't know how i missed this build!Nice work. Beafy is the way to describe it, haha...

spud nut
11-28-2014, 03:47 PM
yes it is.[smilie=thumbs_up.g: I am doing 90% desert riding and will be bouncing off of a bunch of rocks in the roads and things so I just want to make sure it will stand up. Thanks for the comps.

NEbuggy
11-28-2014, 05:33 PM
This is flippin sweet.

Thanks for sending me this way DERANGED.

Thats exactly how i plan to set up my shotty build that ill hopefully be starting in the next couple weeks, after i get my shop/garage/storage area set up and tools bought.

Did you check these guys out VW Transaxles and Transmissions for VW Beetle and Bus | Rancho Performance Transaxles (http://ranchotransaxles.com/vw-transaxles.html)

i am trying to get the best bang for my buck but am kind of lost when it comes to transaxles and knowing what i would need...i would like to run an ecotech lnf...

I cannot wait to watch this build progress and learn along the way. Looks great!

spud nut
11-28-2014, 06:19 PM
Thanks,
I checked with Rancho and wright gearbox and they were both in the $3800 range for basically the same transaxle. All quoted a super diff and weedle gears. Don Kicked everyone's arse. The only thing I know of to get an affordable trans that will hold up to more HP is to go with a VW bus 091. I wanted to go this route but learned that the ring & pinion can not be flipped to make it work for a mid engine set up. It would work great if you wanted to go rear engine, but it would stick out the back quite a ways. You can also put the 091 in upside down and it would work as well. Cable-shift make a shifter for this setup but it leads to other issues, such as, the starter is on the bottom of the motor susceptible to damage and the adapter plate I got with the motor from AlphaFab would not work.

I went with the type 1 that eliminated these issues and it is the same basic build-up the drag racers are using for 500+ HP VW engines. Considering we are placing different loads on the trans AlphaFab is very confidant that for the 200HP ecotec this will work fine. I have not heard of anyone else using this setup yet to set a precedence. If anyone has done this please let me know. I don't plan on beating it like the baja 1000 but I do plan on having fun.

spud nut
11-28-2014, 06:26 PM
Also, I would definitely pay the extra $300 for the aluminium Rhino case. You can see from the pictures the difference between the stock case and the extra ribs and backbone on the rhino case for stress support.31616

31617

NEbuggy
11-28-2014, 06:37 PM
well that helps me out a ton now i know for sure where i should go. i really had no clue what i was gonna do.

Was there any other options you went with when ordering?
Did you trade in a core? if so, where is a good place to pick up a cheap used core?
I would really like to be able to run the heck out of this thing and dont wanna have to rebuild it very often.
we have a pretty good transmission place where im from. do you think that it would be more economical to just find a good used type 1 tranny and have them rebuild it and install the weddle gears?
then again id pry be wrapped up in all the extras making it race worthy. I think i will definitely be giving them a call at Dons.
Was shipping fairly decent on that bad boy?

NEbuggy
11-28-2014, 06:51 PM
sorry if i seem really green to buggy building trying to get my first build going so i havnt gotten alot of experience yet but i have been researching these buggies for about a year now.

What will you use for a shifter setup?
also what size of gears did you get in the tranny?

spud nut
11-28-2014, 07:27 PM
well that helps me out a ton now i know for sure where i should go. i really had no clue what i was gonna do.

Was there any other options you went with when ordering?
Did you trade in a core? if so, where is a good place to pick up a cheap used core?
I would really like to be able to run the heck out of this thing and dont wanna have to rebuild it very often.
we have a pretty good transmission place where im from. do you think that it would be more economical to just find a good used type 1 tranny and have them rebuild it and install the weddle gears?
then again id pry be wrapped up in all the extras making it race worthy. I think i will definitely be giving them a call at Dons.
Was shipping fairly decent on that bad boy?

When you look at Don's website he has a list of options available.
I did the 4:12 R&P and then the other gears are a stock 1st & 2nd with a close ratio 3rd & 4th. I didn't want to go crazy fast in the desert so Don and I decided to gear it to max out at about 60 mph. This also gave me more climbing power. Don takes into account the motor size and tire size to work out the gear ratios.
I also did the upgrades of the rhino case and the other 2 nose cases in aluminium. I did the billet side plate. had him flip the R&P for a mid engine setup. I did the Super Diff which comes with the sand pro type 1 trans. and had him install the 930 stubs.

As for the core I just paid the core charge, as trying to find an old used one and then shipping it to Arizona was almost the same price as the core charge, I decided not to take the time and effort.

Shipping was only $80 from Arizona to Idaho. So with all of the options I chose including shipping and core charge the total was $1835.

This is my first build from scratch as well and I really don't know much, but I am trying to gain as much knowledge along the way that I can. This trans is hopefully going to be a successful experiment. If what the experts at Don's and AlphaFab say it should work I am going to trust their judgement.

NEbuggy
11-28-2014, 08:07 PM
that makes sense about the core charge i guess i didnt think of it like that.
im looking to haul some serious ace up and down the winding country roads in nebraska so i hope he can get me geared to do that lol

What size of tires and wheels do the plans call for? and did you stick with the plans?
if i remember correctly the hubs called for in the plan are Tatum with a 5 on 205 patttern?

spud nut
11-28-2014, 08:19 PM
I went with bearing hubs from Kartek with the 5 X 205 adapters. And I am using 32" tires in the rear and 30" up front.

Finished the motor mounts today.
31620

31621

31622

flyerrider
11-29-2014, 02:01 AM
Looks great! Just as a heads up, 094 transmissions are side shift. They also have a real reverse gear that doesn't explode when you look at it wrong

jersdunz
11-29-2014, 02:45 AM
Looks great! Just as a heads up, 094 transmissions are side shift. They also have a real reverse gear that doesn't explode when you look at it wrong

Fly is write, don't use that reverse for anything other than Backing off of the trailer

midnitetrucker
11-29-2014, 05:42 AM
I'm not that familiar with the VW transaxles. If I was to use a Honda B or D series engine in a Shotgun chassis could I use the 094 transaxle in the mid engine configuration? Also would it be strong enough to take 250-300hp. I've just driven from Houston to Boise straight thru so I'm probably missing something here. Was thinking with the reverse rotation of the engine it would work, but thinking about it you'd be running on the wrong side of the gears, correct?

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 12:32 PM
Fly is write, don't use that reverse for anything other than Backing off of the trailer

wasnt he saying the reverse gear was good in these? is that an 094? what he has installed?

bdkw1
11-29-2014, 01:04 PM
Looks great! Just as a heads up, 094 transmissions are side shift. They also have a real reverse gear that doesn't explode when you look at it wrong

Only problem with that is like the 091, you can't flip the ring gear on an 094. No mid engine with either of those tranny's unless you flip them upside down which brings up another set of problems.

bdkw1
11-29-2014, 01:09 PM
If I was to use a Honda B or D series engine in a Shotgun chassis could I use the 094 transaxle in the mid engine configuration? Also would it be strong enough to take 250-300hp.

Since they are reverse rotation motors, technically it would work. However the R&P is a hypoid gear not a spiral bevel gear which mean you would be driving on the coast side of the ring gear.

250-300HP? How heavy of car? Tires? If you have a light car with small tires it will live for a while. Heavy car with large tires......... Get ready to become your tranny builders best friend.

spud nut
11-29-2014, 01:27 PM
midnite, are you in Boise for a while? I am in Nampa 15 min. away.

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 01:31 PM
Only problem with that is like the 091, you can't flip the ring gear on an 094. No mid engine with either of those tranny's unless you flip them upside down which brings up another set of problems.

why did dons bus box tell him it would work for a mid engine application then? damn..just when i think im starting to get all my ducks in a row one of them decides to stray off lol

spud nut
11-29-2014, 01:46 PM
My Transaxle is a type 1 not the 091. Like in my other posts the 091 or 094 will work if you flip it upside down. Then you have to find an adapter plate that will mount it to the motor upside down.

bdkw1
11-29-2014, 02:12 PM
Problem is, when you flip them over the output flanges move up a few inches. This cuts a few inches out of your travel as you must maintain ground clearance at full bump. You must also do a few things to make them oil properly along with moving the breather and drain plugs.

Also, your starter is on the bottom side of the trans, way more susceptible to water/dirt.

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 02:43 PM
i think if Don's felt the type 1 would hold up its probably a safe bet

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 02:48 PM
spud nut when you got your engine from alpha fab what made you go with the stage three?
ive been researching them all morning and as far as i can tell the stage three only gives you a larger alternator and a bigger belt? maybe the tune is different too?

spud nut
11-29-2014, 02:55 PM
I am no expert so I am going with the recommendations of the people who built the stuff. Don said the trans was good for off road up to 200 hp. As long as I keep it stock at the 170 hp I feel comfortable. I know that if I bolt on a turbo I will need a new trans. Don's was 85% sure it would hold up. And Alpha fab was 110% sure.

It may blow up, it may not. but I will find out one way or the other.

I chose the stage 3 just because it seemed the most complete and I am not a motor guy so I wanted a tested plug and play set up. I did pay for the cobalt ss motor with the forged rods and aluminium pistons. That way if I ever do bolt on the turbo it is ready. If I don't it is a stronger motor anyway.

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 03:06 PM
how much extra did that run you for?
im kinda thinking since i am kind of a motor guy and i know quite a few i might just buy a cheap ecotec and rebuild it. Ill pry buy the harness and ecm from alpha fab tho.
i do like the look of them motors though. they have a good thing going at alpha fab for sure

hopefully you get thing going soon so we can see about the type 1 before i buy one! haha but seriously i think it should work just fine

spud nut
11-29-2014, 03:12 PM
It was $400. They said that they upcharge for those motors because they are getting harder to find. I guess they were only 2004 to 06.

I have always had the strength issue in the back of my mind, but I am going to put my trust in others.

midnitetrucker
11-29-2014, 03:44 PM
No spud I rolled out of Boise early this morning, back home in moses lake, wa now. But im thru boise alot, especially in the summer time. I'm hoping to finish getting moved to the new place this month where ill have some space to work again and get started on a shotgun build shortly. Gonna order the plans for my christmas present.

midnitetrucker
11-29-2014, 04:05 PM
Bdkw1 I will be building a shotgun. I had planned to run a honda mostly because I have cheap and easy access to all I want of them. One my family members has a speed shop and does some pretty insane stuff with the honda engines. But the more I read up on the eco-tec engine im leaning more toward it. As for the horsepower im a junkie, I have my semi running over 900hp at the wheels, keeps a smile on my face. I havent ever been around the mini buggy's before was looking at those numbers mostly cause it would be a easy obtainable and reliable engine build that wil run on pump gas. My orginal plan was to run a CVT but not sure about it with those power levels. I need to start a thread here soon, got lots of questions and research left to do. just got to get through the holidays first then I shut the trucks down for about two months and i'll have more time.

bdkw1
11-29-2014, 07:12 PM
i think if Don's felt the type 1 would hold up its probably a safe bet

All trans builders say that. Then it blows and you take it back and they magically have and upgraded part for the one that let go. This cycle will repeat till you buy a big dollar trans or sell the buggy.

Think I'm kidding? take a look at buggy classifieds on Glamis dunes, RDC or any other off road site. There is a reason most of them say fresh trans rebuild......... The owners have finally got tired of throwing money at the transaxle and are selling it off before it blows again.

This is the whole reason I ventured into the motorcycle powered buggy deal. I wanted something without a transaxle. I have seen way to many of them blow to want to go down that path again.

I did however spend 4 days pre-running for the Baja 1000 in a large 4 seater with a LS motor of some sort and a Mendiola S4. It held up to 4 days off off-road abuse and many highway miles. It will need a 1K refresh before the next outing to make sure nothing will grenade. And that is on a 17K trans........ Fortunately I will not be footing the bills on that one.

Bullnerd
11-29-2014, 07:55 PM
You guys need to dig up Standfasts old thread. He used an ECO and an RPM trans with a CVT to race after countless problems with a bike engine and chain setup.

Also check out Rat and Kfabs vids with CVT.

The Briggs car I have is a CVT and I sure feel like a race car driver when Im in it.

spud nut
11-29-2014, 08:37 PM
I understand everything you guys are saying. And it has all been posted before in this thread.

But there are a few differences between you and me.

I am getting older and have back problems so that is why I am building a long travel buggy to get me out there with some cushion for my back.

I geared it down to not be going 100 mph over the sage brush.

I am not dune riding where there is a lot more stress and HP robbing from the sand resistance. I will be on packed dirt BLM and Forest Service roads.

This is for my wife and I to ride desert dirt roads at a normal speed and explore places we have not been.

I could have just taken my 20k and bought a Polaris SxS but I take pride and enjoy saying "I built that"

I have a CVT and had planned on using it, but I just don't like them personally, again that is my opinion, and I take nothing away from those who like them.

Bullnerd
11-29-2014, 08:44 PM
Absolutely dude, just throwing it out there for you guys.

You have to build it the way you want it for sure.

But....just kidding!

spud nut
11-29-2014, 08:45 PM
Thanks:)

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 08:55 PM
i totally agree with you spud nut. build the buggy exactly how you want. what works for one person may not work for another. i am excited to follow this build and appreciate that you know what you want.

what comes next in the shop for you?

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 08:57 PM
i read standfast's eco build thread and thats what inspired me to go with the ecotec. i just want to be able to shift instead of feeling like im driving a rc car thats why i want to go with a transaxle setup

Bullnerd
11-29-2014, 09:11 PM
i read standfast's eco build thread and thats what inspired me to go with the ecotec. i just want to be able to shift instead of feeling like im driving a rc car thats why i want to go with a transaxle setup

That's cool too...just don't race a car with a CVT!

spud nut
11-29-2014, 09:37 PM
i read standfast's eco build thread and thats what inspired me to go with the ecotec. i just want to be able to shift instead of feeling like im driving a rc car thats why i want to go with a transaxle setup

That is exactly how I feel.[smilie=ecstatic.gi:

I am installing the seat rails right now. I did some modifications to the dash to make the steering wheel position more comfortable for me.

spud nut
11-29-2014, 10:41 PM
pics of the seat install31629

31630

31631

spud nut
11-29-2014, 10:42 PM
pics of dash modifications
31632

31633

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 11:43 PM
That's cool too...just don't race a car with a CVT!

lol now i have to wonder why you said that? do they tear s#!^ up with the cvt setup? im young and wanting to get into racing so i may be convinced if thats the bees knees

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 11:48 PM
dang i love how that thing looks from the front.
you have a really nice work area spud nut i envy you lol
i like that steering wheel placement. looks like its right in your lap where it should be. should give you plenty of comfortable control right there

NEbuggy
11-29-2014, 11:49 PM
i also really like the nerf bars...i might need to steal that idea from you

Deranged
11-29-2014, 11:52 PM
The shotty looks SO good with the larger tires! I dig it bud.

Justin

dunerocket
12-01-2014, 07:09 PM
For the CVT being faster consider this...

In 1993 Williams tested a CVT in a F1 car, identical to the manual transmission. Coulthard was driving and it was said he was a couple seconds a lap faster than in the same car with a manual trans. The FIA immediately banned CVTs from competition. That test car never actually raced, just a test session.

The ability to never shift and keep the engine in it's peak powerband just cannot be beat.

NEbuggy
12-02-2014, 10:18 PM
that is very interesting...how much does a typical cvt setup cost?

spud nut
12-02-2014, 10:24 PM
I have a clutch and primary pulley with 2 belts that I had intended to put on my shotgun but then decided to go with the transaxle. I also have the puller tool as well. I paid $600 for the set. Make me an offer if you are interested.

NEbuggy
12-02-2014, 10:59 PM
spud nut hang on to them for a few months haha
i would love to take them off your hands if i didnt still need to do my xmas sopping
there would be 5 unhappy kids at my house
i still need to buy the plans too

spud nut
12-02-2014, 11:14 PM
I can try, they are listed in the classified section if you want to see pictures.

NEbuggy
12-02-2014, 11:26 PM
hey man make your money you know? im sure i will be able to find something when it comes time

spud nut
12-02-2014, 11:28 PM
No problem, I understand. They may still be around when you are ready so give me a shout if you can use them.

NEbuggy
12-02-2014, 11:30 PM
where do you even buy one of these setups? snowmobile shop? will they handle higher horsepower ecotecs?

NEbuggy
12-02-2014, 11:42 PM
also what kind of top end speed could i expect out of a cvt setup?

spud nut
12-03-2014, 12:57 AM
Not sure where to get them I got mine from hyper here on the forum. He had it for an ecotec but also decided to go a different direction.

spud nut
12-03-2014, 12:58 AM
I think the top end speed depends on tire size and gear ratio in the FNR box.

K-fab
12-03-2014, 01:10 AM
also what kind of top end speed could i expect out of a cvt setup?With my Ecotech, turning 6200 (I believe - may be 6500), an 8:1 RPM transmission, 33" tall tires, an Arctic Cat primary and Team secondary the Dez hits just under 80 MPH in perfect conditions. At these speeds, wind drag actually starts to set in pretty severely. When I had the billboard light bar (four 9" diam HID), it would knock off 7-8 mph from the top end.

The Briggs, with a 26" tall tire, 10:1 gear ratio RPM and the 8250 RPM output shaft was good for 70ish. I wanna say I've seen 68 or so.

Now, this said, anything over 65 out in the dirt, in a smaller ride, is FAST!! 135 across a lake bed in a Trophy Truck is hauling ass, but the second, even one of these beasts hits the rough stuff, 80 is impressively fast.

Set up for acceleration, not top end. It's so much better to get there quickly then have 20 more mph of top end that you use once in a blue moon.

Acceleration is also a lot more fun outta corners, in the dunes, etc..

spud nut
12-03-2014, 01:13 AM
Nicely said. [smilie=thumbs_up.g:

K-fab
12-03-2014, 02:03 AM
Thank you
Thank you very much
(said in a drunken Elvis voice)

Rat4020
12-03-2014, 10:25 AM
also what kind of top end speed could i expect out of a cvt setup?


With my CVT set up 10to1 box and engine at 10400 with 10.50X31-15 tires I GPS at 85 and it gets there quick . But its kind of obknockious to drive on tarmat .8 ta 1 would be a lot more comfortable on tar but in the dunes 10 ta 1 screams

NEbuggy
12-03-2014, 09:38 PM
thanks for the input guys! ive got a lot of decision making to do.

midnitetrucker
12-05-2014, 02:58 AM
Anyone know the link for stanfast eco build. Some reason I must be over looking it or something

spud nut
12-05-2014, 12:22 PM
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects-progress/6371-shotgun-build.html

NEbuggy
12-06-2014, 04:42 PM
is the shotgun constructed with 1.25 DOM or 1.5? the description says 1.5 but then the specs say 1.25...

if it is 1.25 how easy would it be to convert everything to 1.5?

spud nut
12-07-2014, 03:36 PM
My plans call out 1.5"X.120 for the majority of the tubes with a few call outs for 1.25"

N8ball
12-08-2014, 10:43 AM
My plans from rorty call out 1.5" x .095" for structural roll cage parts, .083" for primary bracing, and the only piece of .120" is the transom tube. All the secondary bracing is 1.25" x .065".

spud nut
12-08-2014, 09:18 PM
I am almost getting a daily delivery of parts. Last night I was able to get the axles, rotors and cv's installed. working on caliper mounts today. Got 18.5" of travel in the rear.

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spud nut
12-09-2014, 04:32 PM
Installed Fuel cell yesterday.

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Martinm210
12-09-2014, 10:47 PM
Love the symmetry of the motor, looks super clean!![smilie=thumbs_up.g:

spud nut
12-10-2014, 10:31 PM
Today mounted the radiator.

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NEbuggy
12-10-2014, 11:42 PM
hell ya spud nut! i am super stoked to watch this thing take life. I just bought my plans yesterday, gave them a quick once over and decided I need to print everything off (a couple copies of each page) and take lots of notes. I have already found alot of things I never really thought of. Guess that is part of being a newcomer. CANNOT WAIT! You are giving me inspiration.

spud nut
12-10-2014, 11:56 PM
hell ya spud nut! i am super stoked to watch this thing take life.

Thanks, this is my first true buggy build and I am very determined to get this done. I am going to have a 2 week break from work in about 10 days, and my goal is to have it moving under its own power.
Mr. UPS man brought me seatbelts today and tomorrow he will bring my gauge set. I will pick up my battery tomorrow and I will be set for the weekend.

Deranged
12-11-2014, 11:06 PM
LOVE IT!! That looks SO NICE!

Justin

spud nut
12-12-2014, 12:13 AM
Thanks Justin.
I just finished for the night and placed all 4 calipers and installed the seat belts.

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K-fab
12-12-2014, 01:52 AM
That looks really nice.

Cool seats - not heard of them. Reclining back is a nice touch too.

spud nut
12-12-2014, 01:58 AM
Cool seats - not heard of them. Reclining back is a nice touch too.

Found them on Craig's list $100 for the pair. I hadn't heard of them either. Tonight after installing the belts that seat felt like it wrapped all the way around me. It was a very secure feeling.

dunerocket
12-12-2014, 01:00 PM
Not to be a downer, but that method for mounting the seat belts looks very scary. Even if you welded completely around, that much bending moment at the weld looks like a failure waiting to happen. At the very least it is going to let you move forward a couple inches during a heavy impact.

spud nut
12-12-2014, 01:09 PM
I wondered and was concerned about that too. It has a full bead on the opposite side and the top is welded at 90 deg. at the bar. The gusset added a tremendous amount of strength. Before I finished I tested it with a sledge hammer with about 20 good hits and there was not movement. But I agree I it was something to look into and I am glad I did test it.

Thanks

spud nut
12-27-2014, 01:17 AM
Well I was able to get back on the build again today and I was able to fabricate the center console and connect the cable shifter. I can now cycle through all of the gears. One major hurdle down.YOO HOO!![smilie=jumping.gif]

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Xbird
12-27-2014, 01:25 AM
Nice work, console reminds me of the center pillar in the piper cherokee with the knockouts. is the shifter straight up/down sequential?

spud nut
12-27-2014, 02:35 AM
Nice work, console reminds me of the center pillar in the piper cherokee with the knockouts. is the shifter straight up/down sequential?

No, the shifter is a standard H pattern.

flyerrider
12-27-2014, 03:32 AM
Looks good! What's the bent aluminum tube for?

spud nut
12-27-2014, 03:36 AM
Looks good! What's the bent aluminum tube for?

It is a 1.5" tube conduit for all of the wiring to the back of the dash. Keeps the interior clean of clutter.

spud nut
12-31-2014, 12:33 AM
progress made today was to finish the storage compartment.
Install pedals.
Change the steering bracket to get the shaft away from the gas pedal.

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Bullnerd
12-31-2014, 12:37 AM
Are those heims on the ends of your rack spreader going to have enough travel with the rack mounted on an angle like that?

NEbuggy
12-31-2014, 01:30 AM
did you raise the pedal mount tubes or does the plans call for it to be like that? That looks like it would be easy to design an adjustable pedal slider thinger haha looks great!

spud nut
12-31-2014, 03:22 AM
Are those heims on the ends of your rack spreader going to have enough travel with the rack mounted on an angle like that?

Thanks for the heads up. I didn't think of that I will have to cycle the front and check

spud nut
12-31-2014, 03:27 AM
did you raise the pedal mount tubes or does the plans call for it to be like that? That looks like it would be easy to design an adjustable pedal slider thinger haha looks great!

I had to raise them today. The wilwood pedal assembly that I got the pedal arms were too long and were only about 2 inches off the floor.
I did make the pedals adjustable. I have holes every 5/8" to move the whole thing back and forth.

chrisMX-15
12-31-2014, 06:32 AM
funny thing I just noticed in the first pic above, I don't think those end links are supposed to be attached to frame and lower A arms LOL just kidding must be using that to keep suspension up instead of shocks. Good idea! I hope that's what it is any way!!!! Looks good keep up the pics

ODB
12-31-2014, 10:38 AM
Are those heims on the ends of your rack spreader going to have enough travel with the rack mounted on an angle like that?

What he said....... I like the straight shot for the linkage but the plans show the rack mount being vertical and foresee some cutting and rewelding in your future! :o
On another note.......I really like your glove box idea and will be using that when I get around to building mine......:D

bamabuggy
12-31-2014, 12:07 PM
Very nice build glove box cool good way to keep your stuff safe and dry

spud nut
12-31-2014, 05:23 PM
Thanks for the kind words.
I had the rack mount placed vertical as per plan, but the shaft was running right through my throttle foot and I didn't want it getting caught. So I cut it out and I love where it is now. I think I will modify the heim spacer to compensate. That should get the rod ends vertical again.

Deranged
12-31-2014, 09:21 PM
That's a classy chassis! I think I have a picture of my steering set-up if you want, but you are well into the fabrication. I used the same master cylinder set up. That glove box!! Nice touch!

justin

spud nut
12-31-2014, 10:17 PM
Thanks Justin your pic would be great just to see what you did. Did you have a problem with the location of the shaft getting in the way according to plan?

Woo hoo!!! My hometown BSU Broncs have won all 3 fiesta bowl appearances!!![smilie=thumbs_up.g:

Deranged
01-01-2015, 02:12 PM
Check this out.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects-progress/16348-west-michigan-shotgun-tear-down-7.html

This is my tear down and rebuild. Page 7 shows some of the steering details. I will pull up some of the fabrication pictures.

Justin

spud nut
01-01-2015, 02:21 PM
Check this out.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/projects-progress/16348-west-michigan-shotgun-tear-down-7.html

This is my tear down and rebuild. Page 7 shows some of the steering details. I will pull up some of the fabrication pictures.

Justin

Thanks, that is exactly the way mine was before and I really didn't feel comfortable with where the shaft was so close to the throttle. How did your feel? Did it ever get in the way?

spud nut
01-02-2015, 12:43 AM
today's progress now that the cable shifter is installed I caged it in and created a rear bumper at the same time. I also added tube joints that when removed allow me to take out the motor and trans as one unit.

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spud nut
01-02-2015, 12:46 AM
I got a spare tire gate off craigslist and modified it. A little more tweeking tomorrow and I'l be happy.

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alex_buggy
01-02-2015, 09:57 AM
nice man!!! you will be riding in no time...

spud nut
01-02-2015, 07:15 PM
Spare tire mount is tweeked and finished.

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NEbuggy
01-03-2015, 02:51 AM
this thing is so badass

Bullnerd
01-03-2015, 12:36 PM
Looks good, I forgot how short the back of the Rorty cars are.

Is that your shop?

spud nut
01-03-2015, 08:49 PM
The shop is the Welding classroom next door to my Drafting / Engineering classroom at our High School.

We have it decked out pretty good considering it is a High School. I am very grateful for the ability to use it after hours.

Bullnerd
01-03-2015, 11:54 PM
The shop is the Welding classroom next door to my Drafting / Engineering classroom at our High School.

We have it decked out pretty good considering it is a High School. I am very grateful for the ability to use it after hours.

Yeah that's cool they let the kids use it after hours.

spud nut
01-03-2015, 11:57 PM
The kids are always welcome to come in and use it as long as an instructor is there. The amazing part that I don't understand is that they seldom take advantage of the opportunity.

Bullnerd
01-04-2015, 12:00 AM
Well that was supposed to be a joke...sounded like one in my head. Ha.

spud nut
01-04-2015, 12:02 AM
Well that was supposed to be a joke...sounded like one in my head. Ha.

My bad, I re-read that and then I heard the humor, got it. :rolleyes:

spud nut
03-02-2015, 03:21 PM
Spent the weekend putting in the dash panels and gauges.
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32044

spud nut
03-25-2015, 10:43 PM
Spring break is here and progress is moving forward. battery box made and installed and the floor and rear firewall installed.

32104

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Bansheebrigade
03-26-2015, 03:04 AM
Woah that's a HS shop? Our shop had absolutely nothing. I really like how clean this build is, looks great.

chrisMX-15
03-27-2015, 05:08 AM
looks sweet man keep it up get every ones blood flowing. wish I had shop like that in HS

spud nut
03-28-2015, 11:15 PM
Second to last day of Spring Break. Made a big step Major wiring is installed and fuel lines ran. I can feel it getting closer to the first engine firing. STRESS!! Hope I did this right. I have never done anything like this before.[smilie=big_explode:

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spud nut
03-28-2015, 11:19 PM
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32154

spud nut
03-30-2015, 12:36 AM
Well, it is the end of spring break and I didn't quite make my goal. I just need to connect the starter to the battery and the ignition. I have all of the wires ran to the back of the dash and just need to connect them to the gauges. Then It should be ready to fire up. I have re installed all of the parts I took off to wire it and do the aluminium sheets.

I got close but missed the shot at the buzzer.

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32162

spud nut
03-30-2015, 12:38 AM
Here is a close up of the fuel pump and pressure regulator stacked.

32163

32164

spud nut
04-17-2015, 06:57 PM
Well, we are getting really close to the first fire.
Exhaust has been installed. and all of the dash electronics have been installed and wired up.
Alpha Fab reflashed the computer for me to send out 2 pulses per revolution instead on 1 for the tach. As soon as I get it back it's vroom vroom time.

32211

32212

alex_buggy
04-18-2015, 04:40 PM
looking nice man!!! can't wait to hear it running...

Martinm210
04-18-2015, 06:03 PM
Nice work! If you guys are a bit strapped for buying shocks it might be a fun project to machine your own. There really is not much to an air shock other than a nice seal capable shaft, internal reboud spring, shims. You could probably make all but the shims from materials.

spud nut
04-20-2015, 12:32 PM
That would be cool, but it is way past my skill set. I have some house plans in the works, so it is just a matter of getting them finished. Patience is not one of my virtues.:(

spud nut
05-03-2015, 02:12 PM
just a quick note that the motor came alive yesterday. Sounds great. That is one major stress point gone.:D

bdkw1
05-03-2015, 11:27 PM
It's always nice to hear them fire. How long had it been sitting for?

spud nut
05-03-2015, 11:49 PM
I received the motor from Alpha Fab Industries about Thanksgiving last year. Instantly fired up yesterday. Runs great.

spud nut
06-12-2015, 05:53 PM
So, I have been super busy putting together and running a Science camp for 7th graders. But some news on the buggy. I got my shocks from King and they are beautiful. :D I have been so busy that I had a local shop run the brake and clutch lines. I got the buggy back last night and was able to drive it for the first time. Unfortunately it was in my subdivision and the neighbors called the cops on me and the 2 neighbor kids with their go karts. People can be so uptight sometimes. I guess all that subdivision kids can be allowed to do is sit inside quietly playing video games and smoking pot.

But driving the shotgun was really fun.32298[smilie=thumbs_up.g:

K-fab
06-12-2015, 06:07 PM
Awesome on getting the first ride in.
Bummer on the butt-head neighbors...

CARLRIDDLE
06-12-2015, 06:39 PM
I know right, cant chase kids anymore. Nanny state.

Bullnerd
06-12-2015, 06:43 PM
Dang that thing looks TOUGH!

Nice job and congrats!

Take the neighbor's wife for a ride! You'll have to call the cops to pry her off ya'!

spud nut
06-13-2015, 04:03 PM
Take the neighbor's wife for a ride! You'll have to call the cops to pry her off ya'!

Funny you should mention that. Took 3 wives and 1 daughter for rides and they were fighting to get in.:D

Bullnerd
06-13-2015, 07:23 PM
Funny you should mention that. Took 3 wives and 1 daughter for rides and they were fighting to get in.:D

Haha! Awesome dude, congrats again.

Deranged
06-14-2015, 12:22 PM
WOW, that looks so nice! Sucks about the neighbors.

Justin

spud nut
09-12-2015, 09:34 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCsYIzmSlFc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCsYIzmSlFc)

Finally after 4 years I have done the maiden ride. It was everything I had hoped for.

spud nut
09-19-2015, 05:47 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh2wbS5WNMI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh2wbS5WNMI)

Took her out for a second trip. Getting more comfortable and liking it. I started climbing more hills and she never slipped once.

Bullnerd
09-19-2015, 05:59 PM
Congrats Spud!

Looks like a cool spot to bomb around on. Its hard to tell from the vid, but it looks like its a tight fit on those trails? Are you riding in Nampa?

Everytime you passed a trail that lead to a hill, in my head I was saying, " turn, turn,turn...Ahhh!" LOL!

If you can, post some outside vid, would love to see how it looks.

Wheels
09-19-2015, 06:02 PM
Congrats! That has got to be an awesome feeling. Thanks for sharing.

spud nut
09-19-2015, 06:10 PM
Thanks,
It is a motorcycle and quad style park that is provided to the public from the county. It is about 5 miles out of town from Nampa. The hills are quite steep and most have narrow tops and sharp drops at the top as they are motorcycle trails. I am not quite ready to break the new toy yet.;)
I plan on doing some outside pictures soon. I have the polycarbonate sheets for the side panels and will be putting them on soon. On tuesday I will have a delivery of fiberglassing supplies to make a custom hood. after that my brother who works for a vinyl shop is going to help me vinyl wrap the panels and hood. I think I am going to print images of speedbuggy ,from the cartoon when we were kids, on the sides. I have never made a fiberglass panel this big before. Should be an adveture.

Bullnerd
09-19-2015, 06:52 PM
Awesome!

Ive had about 3 head-ons on hills like that on a bike. I can see why you don't try to crest them.

spud nut
09-19-2015, 06:59 PM
The park is about 10 minutes from my house and I try to go out there on week days and evenings. Usually I have the place to myself or 1 or 2 other people. Weekends though are a different story. A bunch of families with kids on small bikes. I love to see families sharing the hobby with kids at a young age, I was one of them. But I like to respect that by not mixing my big toys with their little ones. And being a teacher I get off work at 2:30 in the afternoon and have summers off. So the weekday thing is easy to do.

Bullnerd
09-19-2015, 07:51 PM
Just googled Nampa, looks like a real nice place.

spud nut
09-19-2015, 08:59 PM
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I am kind of fond of it. 1 1/2 hours from here to the north east I can ride up to the Trinity mountain ranger lookout that is the highest drive-able road in Idaho at 9500 ft. and then I can go 20 min south and ride BLM land all the way to Reno NV. Nampa is 4 hours from ST.Anthony sand dunes.

spud nut
09-19-2015, 09:20 PM
Just googled Nampa, looks like a real nice place.

If you google pickle butte nampa, idaho you will find the park just to the west of the landfill.

spud nut
10-05-2015, 01:20 PM
update,
I have put about 50 miles on the buggy now and plan to manufacture a fiberglass hood.

I have added the roof rack with the hi lift jack. mounted the LED light bar as well as LED running and tail lights. Also mounted backup flood lights.

mounted rear view mirrors.

Then I mounted poly carbonate body panels. They are hard to see in the outside photos but the clear plastic sides are there. My brother and I were discussing the vinyl wrap (that's what he does for a job) and he had a good thought of using the perforated vinyl they use for like bus windows. That way I could see though it from the inside and see the front wheels in the tight spots. Hmmmm?
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sebjones92
11-18-2015, 02:01 AM
holy shit this thing looks awesome! nice work :D

spud nut
11-22-2015, 10:30 AM
holy shit this thing looks awesome! nice work :D

Thanks I love this buggy. And yes, I am a little bias.;)

spud nut
11-22-2015, 10:33 AM
Getting ready for a final sand and lay down some fiberglass for a custom hood.
Inspired by a 67 vette.
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iflytii
11-22-2015, 09:52 PM
I like the clear plastic panels, that's a good idea. Will be interesting to see how they hold up, I suppose if you can wrap them that will help keep them from scratching up so fast.

Hood looks cool! The step at the shock mounts really works well with that design.

Crisco
11-23-2015, 12:45 AM
Looks awesome. Can't wait to see that hood finished.

spud nut
11-23-2015, 08:06 AM
I finished the 4th layer of glass last night for the base hood. Tonight I will glass the inside of the scoop and then place on top of the base.

32579

Wheels
11-23-2015, 11:18 AM
looks like a sharp buggy. I wish I knew how to do fiberglass. hood is going to look really good, imo. :)

spud nut
11-29-2015, 07:42 PM
The hood is now fully fiber-glassed and ready to prep for paint. It was quite a bit more work than I thought and I had to take a few breaks for freash air.:D

32582

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spud nut
02-16-2016, 05:49 PM
Well, after being slammed with houses to draw I was able to get back on the buggy build. I dropped it off at the powder coater today and will get it back in 2 weeks. I don't know exactly how to feel. It took 4 1/2 years to build but only 2 days to disassemble.
32786

spud nut
03-07-2016, 01:17 PM
So working with my brother at the sign shop, this is the design for the side panels to vinyl wrap the poly carbonate sheets.

What are your thoughts? Too much? or just right?34776

spud nut
03-07-2016, 01:19 PM
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34776d1457381808-r16-shotgun-project-sand_rail-2-proof.jpg34777

spud nut
03-07-2016, 01:20 PM
34778
this was the first design

Crisco
03-07-2016, 08:10 PM
They look pretty sweet. You want to stick the Rorty logo on there?
Attached just in case :)34786 I can send you a stainless badge too (1" x .8") for the dash or panels.
PM me your address.
Cheers

spud nut
03-08-2016, 12:41 AM
I would be honored to put your name on my buggy. Consider it done.

Deranged
03-08-2016, 12:45 PM
VERY NICE!! I ALMOST did that with mine.

JUSTIN

spud nut
03-08-2016, 11:03 PM
Christmas and Birthday wrapped up in one. Brought my baby home today.
34788347893479034791

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34788d1457503252-r16-shotgun-project-20160308_173608.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34789d1457503295-r16-shotgun-project-20160308_173239.jpg


http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34790d1457503321-r16-shotgun-project-20160308_173257.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34791d1457503339-r16-shotgun-project-20160308_173659.jpg

Bullnerd
03-08-2016, 11:27 PM
Happy birthday dude! looks sweet!

Crisco
03-09-2016, 12:13 AM
That looks brilliant! It's even Rorty Blue.
Love those presents you get for yourself

Can I stick some of those pics on facebook and Rorty.net / Pinterest?

spud nut
03-09-2016, 12:34 PM
Crisco, Sure I don't have a problem with that.

daaboots
03-11-2016, 06:10 PM
Love the blue color!

Crisco
03-15-2016, 03:13 AM
You made the front page! www.rorty.net

spud nut
03-15-2016, 02:06 PM
That is very cool,
Thanks Crisco

spud nut
03-15-2016, 02:45 PM
I had to drill out an A arm bolt and after fighting that I was able to get most of the front done.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34799d1458074655-r16-shotgun-project-20160314_202838.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34800d1458074677-r16-shotgun-project-20160314_202822.jpg
3479934800

spud nut
03-19-2016, 02:42 AM
Today my baby got her legs back and shoes put on.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34809d1458376884-r16-shotgun-project-20160318_213000.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34810d1458376898-r16-shotgun-project-20160318_212605.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34811d1458376905-r16-shotgun-project-20160318_212545.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34813d1458376920-r16-shotgun-project-20160318_181732.jpg



3480934810348113481234813

Deranged
03-19-2016, 07:08 PM
OH, HECK YEAH!!!!! Awesome color combo!

spud nut
03-19-2016, 10:42 PM
My brother and I put the wrap on the poly carbonate sheets today and my other brother delivered the painted hood so I did a quick mock up to see what it will look like.
Also had a successful heart transplant today as well.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34814d1458448893-r16-shotgun-project-20160319_124047.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34815d1458448899-r16-shotgun-project-20160319_173018.jpg

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Crisco
03-20-2016, 01:17 AM
That is looking sweet! Cant wait to see it spitting some mud!

Dromas
03-20-2016, 03:26 PM
Looks amazing. Cant wait to get mine started!

spud nut
03-22-2016, 12:59 AM
Today I was able to finish installing the motor. The motor wiring and fuel tank and radiator are all finalized. I also redid the dash panels with laser cut acrylic sheets and carbon fiber vinyl.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34818d1458629928-r16-shotgun-project-20160321_194612.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34819d1458629936-r16-shotgun-project-20160321_194335.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34820d1458629943-r16-shotgun-project-20160321_194349.jpg

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spud nut
03-23-2016, 08:44 PM
90% to the finish line. only a handful of things left to do. Got it running again yesterday and all of the electrical back in and finished.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34822d1458787447-r16-shotgun-project-20160323_152209.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34823d1458787474-r16-shotgun-project-20160323_153550.jpg

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spud nut
03-27-2016, 12:27 AM
well, as of today I am officially finished and ready for the local car show next Saturday. It's been almost 5 years but I have learned SOOOO much on this journey. Thanks to everyone involved with this forum the info and help from others has been invaluable.

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34829d1459059922-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180623.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34830d1459060011-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180642.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34831d1459060033-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180633.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34832d1459060058-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180655.jpg

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spud nut
03-27-2016, 12:29 AM
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34833d1459060093-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180705.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34834d1459060109-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180714.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34835d1459060129-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180719.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34836d1459060180-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180732.jpg


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spud nut
03-27-2016, 12:30 AM
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34837d1459060205-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180736.jpg

http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/attachments/rorty-r16-shotgun-ii-two-seater/34838d1459060221-r16-shotgun-project-20160326_180742.jpg

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Deranged
03-28-2016, 07:53 PM
Absolutely awesome build!! Well done, and i'm sure you are pretty stoked to have it done...for now. LOL

Justin

K-fab
03-29-2016, 02:58 PM
Your ride looks beautiful, Spud! Congrats. Now go get it dirty. (:

Bullnerd
03-29-2016, 03:35 PM
First rate job dude!

I see some nice curved roads to get your drift on!

Crisco
03-31-2016, 01:03 AM
It looks awesome! Rorty badge and shirt coming your way. I'm just sending them to Joey in CA to send on.
if you ever need spares Joey is distributing from SoCal.

spud nut
03-31-2016, 01:27 AM
Thanks Crisco, the space for the badge is reserved on the glovebox door. Can't wait. :D