Welcome to Minibuggy.net

[Rorty]

Welcome Haunted! Those are tight dimensions to build a buggy to, though it's not impossible as long as you don't expect too much wheel travel and high-speed performance.

[renegadespec1]

Originally Posted by Rorty\";p=\&quot

Welcome Haunted! Those are tight dimensions to build a buggy to, though it's not impossible as long as you don't expect too much wheel travel and high-speed performance.

Whaaaaaa? *84" long and 60" wide you can get an easy 14 to 18" of wheel travel, but you will need to have a swing-arm rear suspension, but I think at 48" wide in the front you'd be hard pressed to get that much tho...
Welcome to the site Haunted, I'm curious why would you want to be a foot narrower in the front?

[LiveWire]

If you want the front narrower to fit between the wheel wells, it is not a big deal to run the front tires up and over them. I would not sacrifice the handling of the buggy for that. My Honda Pilot with +4 arms is about 58" wide in the front when at ride height. I can easily load it in a truck bed. A stock one is trickier at 50.5" because the tires won't quite fit between, but won't roll up and over either well because the tires are at the inner edges of the wheel wells.

[Haunted]

Good to hear from you all. *I greatly appreciate all of your imput. *I have been contemplating a wider front end to be equal to the rear wheel dimensions. *My bases for the narrower front end is strictly based upon loading and unloading the buggy into a full size truck bed. *If the buggy would easily roll over wheel wells and such this would be of great advantage to the handling and stability of the buggy.

New questions: *Will the buggy be "squarlie" with a 68" wheel base under the power of a Honda 954 motor? *Of course it is my plans to go fast (some what safely). *Also can the drive sprocket be located behind the center of the rear CV joints thus creating a compound angle or will this create to much wear / binding on the CV joint? *Is there a diffrence with the amount of binding associated with a simple angle to a compound angle?

My plans incorporate a very narrow frame at the front (3" to 4" just wide enough to mount the rack) thus allowing me to have longer A-arms part of the issue with this is it creates less leg room (good thing I'm short and slight of build 5'-7" and 120lbs).

Is there an issue with *the main frame of the buggy being in a vertical position vs a horizontal (tub type) frame as most designs depict?

Once again, I appreciate all comments.

[K-fab]

Welcome Haunted.

I've seen a couple 900+ powered smaller rails like you're describing - they're scary... *You want that front end as wide as possible or it's going to be one weaver of a ride.

Hey, why don't you start a thread in the [url=http://www.minibuggy.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewforum&f=34:2h3kqy 3n]Projects in Progress[/url:2h3kqy3n] section on this.

Once again, welcome to the place.

[Idigaz]

Originally Posted by K-fab\";p=\&quot

Welcome to Minibuggy - the best minibuggy fabrication site on the 'net.

Here's your chance to introduce yourself to the Minibuggy.net group.

Stop in and tell us a little about yourself.

Where are you from and where do you enjoy your hobby?

What sort of background do you have?

What sort of experience do you have with the world of off road vehicles?

Fabricator? *Designer? *Just learning? *- *We welcome everyone!

Fill us in and come enjoy the site.

Hi, been lurking too long....this site is full of great info!

I have been building Suzuki (Samurai and Sidekick) 4x4s for a long time, from mild to wild. well wild for Zuk guys anyways. Been all over the West wheeling Rubicon and Moab, and most trails in Arizona.

I have a ton of kids, so I was forced into fixin' their junk, next thing ya know I got hooked into fixing them for others.

Our rigs are lite as far as 4x4s go, but what you all do got me to thinking about building something more for pavement pounding/dune/off-road, yet keep it lite and simple.

I have a few customer rigs to build, then plan to kick out something for myself for a change.....

hope I fit in

Dave King

[Rorty]

Dave, as long as you're 6' x 2' x 1'-3" you'll fit in fine. Welcome to the mad house! *

[wrenchhead]

I've started my virgin built on the welcome mat. *I'm Nate from Utah AKA wrenchhead. *I hve restored classic muscle cars and built many,many 1/4 mile cars over the past years. * I'm a veteran mechanic by trade but build about anything that I want.
I have had dirtbikes and quads for years.
Don't know why I didn't catch the "mini bug" sooner, but I am very excited about these. *I cleaned out my garage and sold a lot of my car things, bought some tube tooling and got after it in the end of Aug. *Hope to be rolling soon!!
Everyone has been great on this site so far (I can take a 'hard time') and I have a good sense of humor.
At this point a special thanks needs to go out to the ones that have helped me so far: *Rorty, Gene, and Yoshi.
Not sucking up, but you guys have been awesome at info and help and your points of view-I always value experience!!!!!!!!!
Anyway thanks to everyonethat makes this site such a success. * [smilie=rockout3.gif]
My build is one of Girard's 2 seat sureshot frames with an FZR 1000. *I took Rorty's advice and the rear is a STA, front will be double A-arm. *Aournd a 95-98" wheelbase with an estimated 72" track. *Don't know weight yet-bare frame was 101#. * Plan on 26x12x10 rears, and 22x8x10 fronts.

[weasel]

Howdy! from the Oregon coast, I have been reading thru many topics here since I just restarted my
single seat project from 2 1/2 yrs ago. That project is a reasonably sized sled engine powered w/CVT
buggy for driving on logging roads and private property.

I have a "low time" Yamaha 540, RPM gear box, VW cv shafts and made my own carriers for a 5 link
system that was recommended by a friend. I welded up a knock-down frame that I bought online and over the phone from a nice man in Kansas (I think, minidunebuggies) over two yrs ago and ended up with a 110" wheel base!, which wasn't going to work. I bought a RPM tranny thru Jay Largo (Great Guy) when they were really hard to get due to the owner of RPM was very sick.
The "learning curve" was taking its toll on me,, plumbing work load was high and things got set aside till recently.

Just by reading one post on here, "start from the wheels and work in" , got me going again. Your words
are powerful my friends,, they got a 210 man thinking and moving. The wheels are thick aluminum,
"cast", I guess you would call them, 4 on 4, 12" with 25" diameter "Bear Claws" mounted. The stub
shafts and hubs are Desert Karts economy type with his VW bus CV shafts. All this stuff was assembled
"again", moved together on the shop floor, stock sled tuned pipes were turned upside down and BING!
the lights went on! It all of sudden looked possible to get the components into a much smaller space
for a more reasonable length wheel base. The track right now is 66" to the outside of the rear tires and
I am aiming for a 76-78" wheel base. The RPM unit has 10:1 gear ratio,, I was looking for a machine
that is fairly quick, good turf traction with more substantial rubber to take the pounding of running an
alder forrest on my friends property. Some of this area is open mowed grass land with some extreme
elevation changes.

I want to thank all that started and moderate this site,, and to those that rekindled the "fire" *to get
this thing on it's way again.
Thank You!

[Kludge]

Hi Weasel,

Welcome to the forum. *

Good to see you are motivated to make progress again. *I'm in the same situation, no progress on my project for most of 2007. I'm getting back in the [s]grove[/s] groove to get it going again.

/Frank

Edited to fix a typo.