Rear Trailing arm toe.

[punkur67]

Yes im shure its positive. The top of the rotor leans away from the car .5 degrees.

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by Artie on Edge

I understand all that you have just written BUT are they easier?

Im thinking in terms of the guy in his small workshop with a small mig and plenty of time.

personally I think the A arms are physically EASIER to make but very more complex, just my opinion.

My last car had semi trailers and my current one has a arms... hence when I read your post ..my ears pricked up....

If you have a jig that lines up every tube and suspension tab for a-arms and trailing arms like I do, than they are both easy. I said trailing arms are easier because with both items being easy with fixtures, the one that is quickest and over $100 cheaper becomes the easiest, well, for my particular setup it does...

For the do it yourselfer not plating his front a-arms and not having fixtures, I would agree a-arms would prob. be easier, but if there are jigs involved then it starts to even up the odds more...

[masterfabr]

Originally Posted by punkur67

Yes im shure its positive. The top of the rotor leans away from the car .5 degrees.

Needs to go 0 or into negative some.

[punkur67]

If I roll the inner mount it changes so this should be no problem. Just need to roll it a small amount.

[Artie on Edge]

Thanks Yoshi, appreciate the insight and the sharing of your experience.

[masterfabr]

Originally Posted by punkur67

If I roll the inner mount it changes so this should be no problem. Just need to roll it a small amount.

Now ya got it!

[masterfabr]

Trailing arm torque reaction discussion moved to ---trailing arm torque reaction-not