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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 287
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Would it be possible to use tapered roller bearings(like the bearings used for trailer hubs)to make a rear hub bearing carrier. Machine out a tube on each end to accept the cone of the bearings, and an area for a seal to be pressed in on each end. Drop in the bearings,Tighten up the axle nut to the proper torque and be good to go. Hope this makes sence! Would this work or not?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Not only is it possible, but it's probably the best way to do it. Perfect bearing for the application.
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Yellow Dog Racing If it wasn't for Physics and the Ground, I'd be Unstoppable! Youth and Talent are No Match for Age and Treachery!
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#3 (permalink) |
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Most heavy stuff likes the taperd roller bearing as it has a MUCH higher load carrying capacity than a ball roller bearing of the same size.
You do pay a small drag penalty for a roller VS a ball though. Be careful on the torque of the nut you tighten on these bearings. On a front spindle of a rear wheel drive car the spindle is solid and the nut actually puts a slight preload to the bearings. A SLIGHT preload! If you tighten it to tight it will create a lot of drag and can make the bearings run hot and even fail early. To loose will allow slop you don't want either. On the rear where the axle will be spinning in the bearing the axle part should have a spacer or some sort of flange on the axle itself to control the amount of squeeze on the roller bearings. You may know this but if not it would be easy to build a rear hub that someone torques the hub nut to a couple hundred FT pounds and the roller bearings would fail quick! Ball bearings tend to have a precision spacer in between them and this carries the compression load. Some apps for rollers use a spacer to and some have it built into the axle part as mentioned above. Just make sure you get them loaded the right amount.
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Sand! The only gold I need! NEVER trust anyone wearing a Tie... Last edited by nutz4sand; 10-29-2009 at 07:36 PM. Reason: spullin |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Yuma
Posts: 50
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Quote:
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#5 (permalink) |
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You can also use a wheel bearing out of the front of a front wheel drive car that is basically two tapered roller bearings with one combined outer race and sealed. A common one is a Timken Set 35 out of a VW Rabbit among other cars. The inner races are sized to set the proper pre-load.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Yuma
Posts: 50
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Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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I would agree that the rabbit type one piece bearing would be eaiser to use if you can mkae it work in your situation.
I do wonder how it would deal with offset loads though? The rabbit rim comes back around and offsets inward right over the center of the bearing. I know most buggies using it will wiegh far less but offsetting to far to the outside cause a problem maybe???? You now anyone using them with a buggy and offset rims Livewire?
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Sand! The only gold I need! NEVER trust anyone wearing a Tie... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 287
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Thanks for the replies guys. I have all the parts and I bought a stub axle and hub from Doug Heim earlier this spring. Just haven't had time to work on it. I will take some pictures of what I mean and post them. Just to give a better idea of what i mean.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 287
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here are the pictures.There is a seal that will ride on the hub then the tapered bearing, and on the other side, the seal that rides on the axle stub and then the other taper bearing. I will machie out a tube to press fit the bearing cones and the seal on each end. Does this look like a good set up?
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Yuma
Posts: 50
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Quote:
The question now is: Would one be able to torque the axle nut enough to hold the driven hub without compressing the tapered bearings? |
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