rear hub bearing carrier

[Stomper]

Originally Posted by Greg@desertkarts

The original idea for this came out in the 80's with stadium cars. In about 99% of cars and trucks the stock rim wraps around the hub to center the rubber on the bearings. Even quads do the same thing. Then quad guys will reverse the rims to get a wider foot print. My truck wheels have a different off set than stock just about all VW off-road aftermarket rims off set to the outside. Talked to the engineer working for Foddrill we agreed with you but the industry does not agree with us. I know I'm not Livewire but thought I would contribute this.

The question now is: Would one be able to torque the axle nut enough to hold the driven hub without compressing the tapered bearings?

I don't understand what you mean about torquing the axle nut enough without compressing the taper bearing.
Could't you just torque it the same wat that you would on a trailer, car or truck. Enough to take out any play and still allow smooth rotation?

[LiveWire]

The Drakart Formula Cross uses a Set 35 bearing. I have not had a problem with the bearings failing with jumps or wearing excessively. When I swapped out the axles and hubs, the original outer Timken bearing races stayed on the old hubs. I used the inner race out of the other side for one bearing and replaced the other side with a new bearing that was not Timken. It failed during the next race. It was not a tapered roller, but had ball in it that fell out and tore things up at the same time. I replaced that with a Timken and did not have any issue for years. I forgot to tighten a CV nut one time and the bearing came apart. Other than that, they have held up great.

[Greg@desertkarts]

Originally Posted by Stomper

I don't understand what you mean about torquing the axle nut enough without compressing the taper bearing.
Could't you just torque it the same wat that you would on a trailer, car or truck. Enough to take out any play and still allow smooth rotation?

Nuts covered it on his post when he mentioned the spacer. On a trailer or the front of a buggy you tighten it down gently until you feel some resistance. Spin the tire feel for drag back off the nut. Spin it make sure there is no play... Make sure it spins correctly not too lose not too tight.

On the rear when conventional VW stub axles are used you put all the parts in correctly and tighten to 300 ft lbs. One bearing is a roller bearing with a sliding inner race. The spacers allow that inner race to fit inside the bearing without side load. If you don't torque it to 300 pounds the splines on the hub will fail. The hub splines are dependent on the massive torque to survive. But the good news is Doug sold you the part and he is a knowledgeable dude and can make the exact recommendation.