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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: eastern nebraska
Posts: 282
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well i started my buggy over a year ago, and some people harrassed me enough to leave.. so all im gonna say, is im not gonna race this thing, im not gonna jump it.. just a trail rider. i used a 95 suzuki gsxf 600. and s-10 cv's. heres what i got so far.
![]() ![]() in this picture the side rails run parallel to the bottom rails along the seats.. i have since widend them out 8 inches. ![]() this is gonna be the normal ride angle ![]() this is full droop for these axles... ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Who cares what anyone else says, as long as your having fun and the buggies safe, do what you want. There are a bunch of know-it-alls on the site. Mostly they just want to help it's just in a condicending i know everything kind of way.
Do those CV's bind at all with that much angle? |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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BANNED
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Coffeyville,Ks.
Posts: 7,768
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Quote:
Oh ouch! I'm feeling insulted. Anyway vdc4 welcome back and it looks like you are making good progress.I'm sure you will enjoy your build when finished. Looking good.Last edited by masterfabr; 09-08-2008 at 03:51 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: eastern nebraska
Posts: 282
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jay- when they are at thier lowest point, im not sure if they are really binding, the boots makes alot of noice because they are streatched out, but they do turn fairly easy by hand at that angle. depending on the limit of my shocks i may be using some limiting straps so i dont dislocate something in the cv's if thats even possible? i chose the s-10 cvs due to the easy to mount 6 bolt flange, and the cheapness of replacements incase of failure. 40$ for rebuilt ones doesnt break my bank. at the convienence of replacments and easy mounting comes a price, they are heavy as hell!. well thanks for the welcome back guys. people will say what they will i guess, but im doing what i can with what i have
-mattheres what i got done tonite, started the engine cage, the second picture is of the rear top engine mounts, i made them removable incase i want to pull the engine. such as when i blast and paint the frame. (my phone camera is all that is availiable to me at the moment. ![]() ![]() Last edited by voodoochikin04; 09-08-2008 at 07:18 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: eastern nebraska
Posts: 282
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well i started the roll cage today and i hate the way its going. my seats are angled back a little for comfort and foot room. that puts the seat backs at a pretty sloped angle. so i had to go from right next to the seats and angle back and go up with my first bar. its looks goofy as hell and i dont know what to do so it will look good.. please give some advice thanks
-Matt![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() im not sure what to do to correct the stupidness of it???? also the top is about 8 inches above my head, is that too much? |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Otis, OR
Posts: 167
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Hi Matt,It would be hard for most to describe how to make your frame "look better". Some are pretty good at drawing over your pictures once it's completed.
I downloaded a bunch of buggy pictures off this site and others to get a truck load of various designs. I still have them and could e-mail you some 2 seater design examples that I like. I think the upper frame rail would have looked better if it was continued on the "same plane" to the rear of the buggy. Maybe narrowing the rail in the rear (width wise), next to the engine. That would require 2 bends, a horizontal "off-set" bend we call it in plumbing. The near 90 degree bends in the upper rail (that go behind the seats) have really painted you into a corner and that cross tube could have been welded in anywhere to tie the new upper rail together and support for the seats. I personally don't like the look of roll cage "hoops" (side to side),I like the "fore and aft" style, they can be bent to complete the look you want and can be supported to get the strength you need. Your upper frame rail, as is, is on the low side in relation to your body, so the roll cage height will eventually look pretty tall, But once the wheels are on it might not look all that tall. weas Last edited by weasel; 09-09-2008 at 05:00 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: eastern nebraska
Posts: 282
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thanks for the reply.. i spent all day today redoing that hoop that goes over the seats. i got it way better.. i also made my rear shock mounts on the arms and the body. yea i know what you mean about that side rails being a little low.. they would be perfect about 6 inches higher.. i was thinking of adding another rail right above those, all will be hidden behind the aluminum skin.. ill get pictures tomorrow. put in 10 hours on it today. tired..lol.. -Matt
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: eastern nebraska
Posts: 282
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ok got some more work done on it. a-arms are done, shocks are mounted with 2 adjustment holes on the top and 3 on the bottom. plus the 5 spring adjusters on the shocks themselves.
the first picture was from two days ago.. ![]() the rest are form tonite.. the highest point is only 8 inches above the seat tops which are about even with the top of my head. ![]() ![]() i also made an H shaped piece that goes across the top, and it removable so the engine can be hoisted through the top. no pics of that though. |
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