newbe to mb jumping the Tazcar.

[Luv4wheel]

Hello Jeff, my name is Brian and Neil is building me a Tazcar with a Supercharged 2.0 Ecotec. Supposed to be about 260 hourse power. Your clutch looks very simular to what my car has on it. What is the differance between a Micro Belmont clutch and a Team clutch? *You mention your Tazcars have a lot of power. How much HP do your cars have? How much HP is too much HP for the Dunes with out frying your Team clutch and belts? Are you happy with your Team clutch?
Thanks,
Brian

Originally Posted by Jeff\";p=\&quot

Azmonkey, If your waisting a belt a day something is off. We destroyed lots of belts and tried lots of things and I think we got it figured out.
1: Alignment must be perfect, get a alignmnet bar and check it yourself. http://www.hiperf.com/ (look for a tss-04 alignment bar)
2: Clutch bushings and clutch face wear. As soon as the bushings wear out or if you wear a grove in your clutch face belts are going break. When those go out it changes the angle the clutch grabs the belt and gets both the clutch and belt hot. I was wearing the bushings out of my commet in one
weekend!
3: Dont wait for your belt to break to change it. I keep three belts in my wing and rotate them during the day, that keeps any one belt from getting too hot. (a great tip from the drag snowmobile guys)
4ont romp on a new belt, Break her in slow for the first 5 miles or so.
5:Clutch springs dont last forever. The spring in the driven clutch (back clutch) can get weak. The belt will start to slip at higher speeds and cause alot of heat to build up. Team makes that clutch and they sell a titanum spring that lasts way longer.
When it comes to clutching Neil at * ATV is the master, We have by far three of the highest hp taz cars made and our belts are now lasting two or three weekends thanks to him. *And with this new clutch the final weak link is handled.

We need to meet up at the dunes and get this figure out. We'll be back out at Gordens next season.

[K-fab]

Micro Belmont is who is making the primary (engine) clutch that Jeff is showing. *It appears to be a very well designed and machined unit.

Team is the driven clutch that goes on the transmission. *The Team is by far the most bullet proof driven on the market at the moment. *It will be the last part of the CVT system that you'll have issues with. *They do wear the sliding bushing out after a while, but that's typical for all driven clutches. *I believe that Neil is now able to replace the bushing relatively easily.

As long as you don't bend the back end of the chassis by bottoming it out over and over (hard), the alignment of the clutches should stay put. *This is the most important aspect of a CVT system. *Since you'll be duning, you shouldn't have any issues, even with a few good tail slaps.

[Bugpac]

Originally Posted by Jeff\";p=\&quot

Yea it split the spider in half, even had a billet spider split in two. Not to mention destroy the bushings in one weekend. Not sure what a "parigon" is?

Yup i also had a split spider on my comet clutch....I went to a ski doo tra clutch on my car, I dont think ill be changing it back either....Now i just need the right diameter driven...

[litespeed]

Originally Posted by K-fab\";p=\&quot

Micro Belmont is who is making the primary (engine) clutch that Jeff is showing. *It appears to be a very well designed and machined unit.

Team is the driven clutch that goes on the transmission. *The Team is by far the most bullet proof driven on the market at the moment. *It will be the last part of the CVT system that you'll have issues with. *They do wear the sliding bushing out after a while, but that's typical for all driven clutches. *I believe that Neil is now able to replace the bushing relatively easily.

As long as you don't bend the back end of the chassis by bottoming it out over and over (hard), the alignment of the clutches should stay put. *This is the most important aspect of a CVT system. *Since you'll be duning, you shouldn't have any issues, even with a few good tail slaps.

How do they do in the sand? I have been running the Aaen rollor clutch for 4 yrs now but the rollers get notchy from the sand/grit.

I would like something easier to maintain.

Tom

[K-fab]

The Team clutches? *Beautifully. *The entire cam section is sealed away from the rest of the world. *There are no towers to knock off either.

The Helix plate, the two rollers and the spring are all inside the clutch. *The Helix seals off the chamber that everything is in and what's also cool about the piece is that it comes with two different helix angles on each plate. *Spin the helix 90 degrees and you have a new angle.

The roller system is a pair of massive (I believe either .625 or .75" in diam) plastic pieces that ride in the slots on the helix. *No torsion spring needed to keep pressure on the rollers to keep them in contact w/the helix.

If I can find pix of one that's apart, I'll snap a few for you.

On the Aaen roller setup you can purchase sealed bearings from your local bearing supply house instead of the shielded bearings that come with the kit. *You still end up with grit getting in between the rollers and the helix, so yea, I hear you on the notchy aspect. *I didn't see it quite as badly in the desert dust as you do in the sand, but it was still noticeable. *The sealed bearings really helped.

[Jeff]

Hey Brian, I think the clutch on your car is a Micro belmont six tower, the one we use is a four tower. The extra two towers are for more weight so the clutch grabs at a lower rpm. The honda can rev higher so it can use less weight. As far as power goes we run a 2.2l dart block honda, a 1.6l supercharged at 12 lbs of boost, *and a 2.0l high compression motor. All three in the 260 hp range. If your running a micro belmont up front and a * tss-04 team driven clutch your clutching should work great. Thats not to say you wont break a belt from time to time. *As for the team clutch I think its a great clutch. I added a seal to protect the helix bushing and keep a tool kit and some extra bushings in the warrior just in case. For the front clutch Neil uses both Commet and Micro belmont, The Belmont is way more expensive but is a way better clutch.








[quote=Luv4wheel\";p=\"71227]Hello Jeff, my name is Brian and Neil is building me a Tazcar with a Supercharged 2.0 Ecotec. Supposed to be about 260 hourse power. Your clutch looks very simular to what my car has on it. What is the differance between a Micro Belmont clutch and a Team clutch? *You mention your Tazcars have a lot of power. How much HP do your cars have? How much HP is too much HP for the Dunes with out frying your Team clutch and belts? Are you happy with your Team clutch?
Thanks,
Brian

Originally Posted by Jeff\";p=\"70828":1w5tnkoi]Azmonkey, If your waisting a belt a day something is off. We destroyed lots of belts and tried lots of things and I think we got it figured out.
1: Alignment must be perfect, get a alignmnet bar and check it yourself. [url="http://www.hiperf.com/

http://www.hiperf.com/[/url] (look for a tss-04 alignment bar)
2: Clutch bushings and clutch face wear. As soon as the bushings wear out or if you wear a grove in your clutch face belts are going break. When those go out it changes the angle the clutch grabs the belt and gets both the clutch and belt hot. I was wearing the bushings out of my commet in one
weekend!
3: Dont wait for your belt to break to change it. I keep three belts in my wing and rotate them during the day, that keeps any one belt from getting too hot. (a great tip from the drag snowmobile guys)
4ont romp on a new belt, Break her in slow for the first 5 miles or so.
5:Clutch springs dont last forever. The spring in the driven clutch (back clutch) can get weak. The belt will start to slip at higher speeds and cause alot of heat to build up. Team makes that clutch and they sell a titanum spring that lasts way longer.
When it comes to clutching Neil at * ATV is the master, We have by far three of the highest hp taz cars made and our belts are now lasting two or three weekends thanks to him. *And with this new clutch the final weak link is handled.

We need to meet up at the dunes and get this figure out. We'll be back out at Gordens next season.

[/quote:1w5tnkoi]

[Jeff]

Tom, I Looked into that Aaen roller conversion but after talking to Mr. Aaen he suggested Micro belmont. He said there clutch addressed almost all
the commet clutch issues I was having. Both shivs are replaceable and the shive faces are hardened. I am also having them coated in silicon carbonate to make them even more durable. The spider is threaded on like the commet but the belmont had a large jam nut to
keep it from unscrewing if you break a belt. Both bushings are huge DU bushings and they are holding up great.



[quote=litespeed\";p=\"71258]

Originally Posted by "K-fab\";p=\"71240":12crbzjg

Micro Belmont is who is making the primary (engine) clutch that Jeff is showing. *It appears to be a very well designed and machined unit.

Team is the driven clutch that goes on the transmission. *The Team is by far the most bullet proof driven on the market at the moment. *It will be the last part of the CVT system that you'll have issues with. *They do wear the sliding bushing out after a while, but that's typical for all driven clutches. *I believe that Neil is now able to replace the bushing relatively easily.

As long as you don't bend the back end of the chassis by bottoming it out over and over (hard), the alignment of the clutches should stay put. *This is the most important aspect of a CVT system. *Since you'll be duning, you shouldn't have any issues, even with a few good tail slaps.

How do they do in the sand? I have been running the Aaen rollor clutch for 4 yrs now but the rollers get notchy from the sand/grit.

I would like something easier to maintain.

Tom[/quote:12crbzjg]

[litespeed]

K-fab,

Have a part number for those sealed bearings for the rollor clutch? Thanks for the previous info. Sealed would be a great upgrade to what I have. Since I made the new shield for the side of the drak it gets way less sand blasting comared to before with no protection.

Jeff,

When I bought this kit from Aaen back in 03 (?) he wasn't familiar with the Drakarts and it was prolly before these clutches (?) were availible. He said it would make a huge difference, he was right. Hard to imagine something better other than the gritty bearing part. It works awsome till they get notchie then I can notice the backshifting slowing down. I just clean them a couple times a year. Hard to get all the grit out after all these years of use though.

Have a link to this clutch they recommended to you?

Thanks for all the info,

Tom

[K-fab]

Part number.... *I don't think I have anything for the AC clutches anymore - put it all in a box and it went with the old Deztaz when I sold it. *I will look in one of the drawers in my truck's tool box. *I kept a flattened box that the bearings came in and put it there. *Not sure if I've tossed it yet or not.

You could do what I did - take one of the bearings into your local bearing supply house and tell them that you want a sealed unit. *They should be able to figure it out.

I'd dump the AC clutch and switch to the Team. *They really are that much better.

[litespeed]

10-4!

Thanks again.

Tom