Sandrail build tips, tricks, and stuff learned the hard way.

[yoshi]

The top one is my lower radiator grommet where the nipples slide in. *I use the same gromet in the top of the radiator and run my bolts through them.

The 3rd. and 4th. pic's are my panel mounts (3rd. being inner, 4th. being outter). I use the same rubber grommets in the tab, I then run a button head allan through the panel that has a washer with a rubber backer on it for the outside, I then use a bigger washer inside the panel so no matter how tight I snug up the bolt, it doesn't dimple the panel, I run that through the rubber grommet, than another washer, then a nut. *Tat way, every point is with a rubber mount. *I space the panel out about 1/16" from any tubes, and I run weather strip down the inside of the panel edges where every tit could touch the frame, this prevents any vibration....

[Jet09]

Cheers Yoshi, They Seem Perfect

[griff]

I built my 1st frame out of cheap 1.25" electrical conduit the 1st time around. *Cost me abot $40 and as Yoshi said...It paid for itself in the errors that would have been made using 1.25X.095. *I was able to use a simple conduit bender and get it just the way I wanted it.

[rowycoracing]

Yeah I am with griff ... I used cheap conduit to mock up my front and rear suspension so i could get it just the way I wanted it before I made the jigs to weld up the real stuff. *I used scrap plywood to mock up some of the bulkheads, brackets, uprights etc. *Worked good, took little time and cost was low.

[bdkw1]

Originally Posted by yoshi\";p=\&quot

I use the same rubber grommets in the tab, I then run a button head allan through the panel that has a washer with a rubber backer on it for the outside, I then use a bigger washer inside the panel so no matter how tight I snug up the bolt, it doesn't dimple the panel, I run that through the rubber grommet, than another washer, then a nut. *Tat way, every point is with a rubber mount. *I space the panel out about 1/16" from any tubes, and I run weather strip down the inside of the panel edges where every tit could touch the frame, this prevents any vibration....

So what keeps the nut from backing off? Do you run a sleave? Nylock nut? Locktite? A prayer to the bolt God?

[yoshi]

[quote=bdkw1\";p=\"40911]

Originally Posted by "yoshi\";p=\"40840":81q31nde

I use the same rubber grommets in the tab, I then run a button head allan through the panel that has a washer with a rubber backer on it for the outside, I then use a bigger washer inside the panel so no matter how tight I snug up the bolt, it doesn't dimple the panel, I run that through the rubber grommet, than another washer, then a nut. *Tat way, every point is with a rubber mount. *I space the panel out about 1/16" from any tubes, and I run weather strip down the inside of the panel edges where every tit could touch the frame, this prevents any vibration....

So what keeps the nut from backing off? Do you run a sleave? Nylock nut? Locktite? A prayer to the bolt God?[/quote:81q31nde]The rubber grommet puts pressure on the nut. *I bought a box of nylon nuts, but they take forever to put on and remove, so I ran the regular nuts and just kept an eye on them and haven't had one back out yet, so until I get one that backs out, the box of nylon nuts will sit on the shelf...

[LiveWire]

I use similar grommets for my radiator mounts. Mine are 5/16" ID though and I put in crush sleeves so the the nuts can be cranked tight without squeezing the grommet out. I also use Nylock nuts.

[hummerman]

yoshi,
looking forward to seeing more of yours and others tips here!!!
Thanks

[cullen]

if you are trying for a perfectly straight weld, try holding your breath so you stay perfectly steady. just dont hold it too long.

i also have a bunch of harbor freight grinders with different discs, grinding wheels, wire wheels, etc.
the grinders are cheap and it saves time by not have to switch discs ,etc. around.

also, for jigs, and other metal, check out a metal reycler. i always find cool stuff and its waayyy cheaper than the local metal supplier.

[ProtoDie]

Make sure you use Grade 8 bolts, and lock tight on bolts that are not nutted.

Powdercoat can be cheaper than painting,,,,,,,,,,if you send it out
(unless you primer & paint it yourself,,,,,then painting is cheaper but a pain in the arss and your nose & ear hairs will match your buggy for 2 days)

Powder coat does last 20 times longer than paint,,,,,,when submitted to a constant roost of gravel,,,off the rear tires of the guy in front of you on the track *(if you are planning on racing)

Paint is easier to change your mind & re-engineer,, and touch up

For body panels, rivots thru tabs do work too,,,,not thru the tubing though,,,that is bad. *It is pretty quick to drill them out and take the panel off when needed. * If you go this route, there is a great little tool that makes life easier,,,Cleko loc pins & tool. *They work great for sheet metal work

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... _382930_-1

We put a bead of silicone between the panels & frame, to eliminate the buzz,,or rattle.

This works, but I would like to try the thin weather stripping next time.


Have fun , and don't be afraid to ask questions here,,,,,and enjoy the build, as it is worth it when you are done.