Welding table / buggy table

[sodman]

Hey guys need to build a welding table tell me what you've got open to all sugestions . A couple of things(1) running on limited space would like to be albe to move it around wheels /casters (2) some where around 4 foot by 5 foot top ( how thick? )

[K-fab]

I did the Titanic (what my work table's been named) out of 2" square, .125 wall tubing. The top is 1/8" thick - I wish I'd done either 3/16 or 1/4.

Wheels are a great idea. Make sure that you get at least two of them that can lock and it's even better if you can lock them from swiveling too. Use swivels on all four corners. Moving a large(r) table with only two swiveling casters is a pain in the butt. - two other tables in my shop are set up like this and it's a pain to move them.

I got my casters from McMaster-Carr. They're similar to this.

If you have a chance, put at least one shelf on it about 6" off the ground - or just above the top of the caster mounts. Recess the shelf about 10" or so from one side and then you'll be able to pull up a stool or chair and get right up next to your work. Put another shelf about half way between the top and the bottom - they make great space to store stuff - tools and such.

I also ran a power strip (6' with plugs every 6" or so) under the lip of the front (mounted on the front 2x2) and on the outside of the back one - I wish I'd put them on the inside of the 2x2 instead. Putting it on the bottom ends up getting away when ever I want to clamp something to the edge. The table has a 50' power cord that is attached to the power strips.

One other thing that I really wish I'd done was make the table's frame air tight. Instead, I ran a hose around the inside of it with quick fittings plumbed in and sticking out from under the edge in the upper corners. There's a coily air line attached to the hose and the line goes on to the compressor. If I'd done it correctly, I would have made the frame air tight and then drilled/tapped the tubing and put the quick fittings right into the frame and then plumb a line from the compressor right into it all. There's a surprising amount of volume inside all that tubing - may as well use it, right?

I also welded about a foot of 1" right angle stock on one of the front corners. Makes for a good corner to beat things around - like aluminum. Makes a good corner to bent stuff on.

I'd be glad to get some pix of the Titanic if you'd like.

A good vice on one corner is very useful too.

[sodman]

Thanks for the reply K-fab how big is your table top and you know what they say pictures are worth a thousand words. Are your casters adjustable to take into account a floor that's not perfectly flat not an easy thing to build and maybe not worth the effort but just a thought then you could set it up on different area's in the shop.
Thanks for the imput Sodman

[Horns]

Yeah k-fab, pics would be great.

[nutz4sand]

First off some of K-fabs ideas are likely to find my build table at one point!

my next build

This above is Magnums build and shows his table.
I used to know the specifics but at the moment they escaped me.

The top is square tubes so with gaps for clamps to go thru. He puts the whole thing on one of those hydraulic Quad lifts and can raise or lower it. Pretty sweet. Cool part is it can lean up against the wall (the top part) and not take up a lot of room when not needed.


These below are the build Table I have built so far. Like K-fab mentioned the wheels under it are casters and can pivot in any direction BUT they can als ALL be locked if Need be both to prevent rolling and I can lock them in any of four directions.

My original plans was a layer of MDF on top that I would replace from time to time and even now I have a type of multilayer Plywood over the laminate wood on it. But I am itching to makle a top like Magnums for it. If steel drops in price again I may splurge. But for now the wood will do. The woods easy to screw a tube holding block into. Just tougher to clamp down.

I have four leveling jacks (one at each corner) and two support jacks in the middle. I can raise or lower the tbale a good 5 to 6 inches at a time and with simple blocks I can raise it as high as I wish.

My table is 6 foot wide by 12 foot long as I also would like to build some bigger buggies on it. Even if it makes getting around smaller ones a small pain. I also figured I could do two smalelr ones side by side if need be.

But moving it and storing it can be tough. Sometimes I think (actually I KNOW) if I had seen Magnums first I would have copied it and went from there!

[K-fab]

Originally Posted by sodman

Thanks for the reply K-fab how big is your table top and you know what they say pictures are worth a thousand words. Are your casters adjustable to take into account a floor that's not perfectly flat not an easy thing to build and maybe not worth the effort but just a thought then you could set it up on different area's in the shop.
Thanks for the imput Sodman

The Titanic's 4' x 8'.

My casters don't take up any floor height imperfections, but I wasn't worried about it either. In general, it sits in one spot and is moved rarely. My floor's a tad off as you move things around, but I'm also able to park what ever in one square of concrete (the floor's been sectioned into 10' x 10' units with seams between them) so there's not an issue.

I have leveling jacks on each corner of my build table (dubbed the Lusitania - not sure where this sinking ship thing came from, but hey, it works...) so I can make sure it's level during a build. I'll find out just how well it works here soon when I start working on the pre-runner.

Oh - I also added a couple of angled tubes (will show in pix) for welder gun holding and there's a tab on one of the legs for the ground clamp.

Pix later this morning.

[K-fab]

Here ya go.

BTW - the top of the Titanic is 36" off the ground.

From left to right:
First pic shows the front view. You can see the power strip under the front edge. Don't put one there.
Welding is generally done on the left side and the fab area tends to be on the right. Vice is on the front right corner and very rarely gets in the way.

Air quick fits are under the vice and under the word Titanic. Seems that the right side one is used 90% of the time. If I were to redo it, I'd probably make the right side a dual output instead of just one. - and probably have the second port point out of the right side, not the front. That would keep the air lines from getting tangled. I'd also mount them in the bottom of the tube, pointing down. Less chance of getting hooked on something (like the torn thigh blue jeans I wear at times.)

Second pic shows the recessed lower shelf. It's recessed 8" from the front and the top of it sits 10" off the ground. Perfect height for putting my feet on when I sit there. It's also the right height to put my TIG's pedal under w/o having any issues and hitting it.

Look at the left front corner just above "THE". There's the little piece of angle I was talking about. Surprisingly simple, but I use it all the time as a backing when using the hammer to straighten or bend something. I use the flat part of the vice as a hammering surface often too.

Third pic shows the badly placed power strip, air and electrical lines. On the far right there's a white hose - that's my air line and it's a pain in the butt. Seal the body and put your fittings in the tubing.

In the far right corner, you can see the electrical box that the power strips and the power cord all connect in. On the back right leg, notice the bent hanger for the power cord to be stored on? Keeps it nice, neat and from getting in the way.

Fourth pic shows the grounding clamp and the welder gun holder. Box 'O Rags is real handy and doesn't get in the way (much).

Swivel, locking casters. 4" urethane.

Hopefully this gives you some ideas.

[sodman]

Thanks guys for the info and pics don't know if a good idea or not but would like to use table for welding as well as build table the pic that nuts 4sand posted look intresting no problems to find a place to clamp something down would work great with sliding welding clamps. 4 by 8 might be to big but for a build table for a buggy frame it would almost have to that big wouldn't it I'll have to do some measuring to see what is the biggest size I can fit in
Thanks again Sodman

[sodman]

does anybody know if a JD2 manual bender thats been coverted over to hydraulic can be mounted horizontal and vertical trying to include a mount to my welding table. It will be some kind of pocket the bender mount will slide into under the table top.Just trying to include most of all tools a person might need. A place for my dies ,grinders clamps . and maybe a slide out for the chop saw. Frame will be 2 by 2 box with at least 3/8 plate top leaning towards 4 by 8 top .
Later sodman

[nutz4sand]

Originally Posted by sodman

does anybody know if a JD2 manual bender thats been coverted over to hydraulic can be mounted horizontal and vertical trying to include a mount to my welding table. It will be some kind of pocket the bender mount will slide into under the table top.Later sodman

You want to be able to use the bender horizontal AND verticle?