07-08-2006, 02:12 AM
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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: OC
Posts: 315
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MINI ME
Will take pictures tomorrow. From the last picture on the link buildup (bottom of this page) the Fuel cell is mounted as well as rear drive unit. Dont have time to finish... Car will come with all the dimensions and jigs if you want to pay the laser cut fees for all the suspension, probably only be like $75 for the upper, lower and trailing arm jigs.
Description of car setup.. The specs-- 100" wheelbase, 76" front track width, 84" rear track (designed with 25" front tire and 26" rear tire and 12" douglas wheels). The front is a true a-arm setup, 23" of travel, 6* rake built into the front with 5* of camber change and less than 1/32" of bumpsteer. It has 11.35" stroke Fox coilover air shocks, ATV racing's front hub assembly with my upright and dual 2" CNC polished calipers. The rear is a trailing arm setup with 20+" of travel with 2.0 12" stroke Fox coilover with piggyback, 930 microstubs etc. Parts included with sale: All parts are brand new except for the motor and 2 spal fans Main chassis, none of the arms or trailing arms are built 01 Yamaha R1 motor, all stock wiring, stock air box Aftermarket ITG base plate and 3-3/4" tall air filter assembly and blue outerware. IHI subaru turbo with AN fittings--not mounted but comes with it Rear Drive setup Sand Bullet rear assembly for 930's and brake rotor 4 piston CNC caliper and pads Sprocket Specialists Z sprocket, 540 tooth for 530 chain RBP 930 microstub assembly, nuts, bolts, washers etc... 2-KMX-10 5/8's FK heims and s/s jam nuts for outer pivots-Nylon injected instead of teflon; supposed to be better for sand 2 pairs of misalignment spacers 2-2.0x12" Fox coilover piggy back shocks All ARP polished s/s 12pt hardware for rotor and sprocket Front suspension ATV racing billet aluminum front hubs, snouts, plated rotor, bearings, seals, spindle nuts and polished caps 2-2 piston CNC polished calipers with pads 2-HRSMX-10T and s/s jam nuts for rack 6-KMX-10 5/8's FK heims and s/s jam nuts for outer pivots on tie rods and upright 6 pairs of misalignment spacers 2-11.35" Fox coilover air shocks Steering Gear one polished rack Gear one billet clamp on steering housing assembly 3-sweet mfg u-joints Quick disconnect Interior 2-PRP low back, adjustable head rests, extra wide, removable cushion seats; pewter tweed, sky blue piping Don Parscale produced sequential shifter :robbie: CNC reverse hanging brake assembly with tall rectangular master and easy fill top CNC reverse hanging clutch assembly with tall rectangular master and easy fill top CNC gas pedal with foot rest :beer: CNC blue slave cylinder CNC brake light switch 1-Blue 2" Crow 5 point belts Polished shifter knob--needs to have an adapter made to fit shifter Polished aluminum gauge assembly (not sure if you'll use it but included non the less) starter button 1 toggle with kill switch 2 toggles Big red Oil light Cooling Custom made aluminum radiator by Speed Parts with -16 AN fittings measures 17x15 22-24lb "racing" radiator cap 4- -16 AN fittings for cooling lines (unless you go the s/s braided route) 2-16" spal fans (used) black jaz overflow tank Setrab mini oil cooler measures 7x5-1/2 with 5-1/2" spal fan mounted on the back 10 gallon Jegs aluminum fuel cell with foam Faucet fuel pump 2-Orange tail lights 40-50 individual red/blue led lights Odyssey PC-680 battery Aluminum mount for battery Extra hardware, nuts bolts etc... 1.25" tubing and 1.25" square tube (was going to build the lower arms like porters boxed arms) My loss; is definately someones gain. Car is very very stout; would be very bad A$$ for a mini when complete but I dont have the time. Will update with the latest pictures tomorrow. Link to buildup...http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/ind ... opic=59100 Asking $9500...which couldn't even buy all of the parts Jason 714-476-9416 f1prerun@sbcglobal.net |
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07-08-2006, 03:50 AM
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#2 (permalink) |
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Vendor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Winder Georgia
Posts: 8,439
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you may get better money selling in pieces, i know you have alot of stuff, but for the inexperienced a rolling chasis is in the same category pricewise. 8)
__________________
Yrs of testing is not accomplished by owning something for yrs, You have to run it more than 20 laps 10 times a yr at the local 1/2 mile track. Sitting in the garage does not qualify as testing. |
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07-08-2006, 05:21 AM
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: OC
Posts: 315
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Your right...you can have your average under built mini rail or a rail which has some cheap knock off tawain parts or you can have some of the best parts money can buy. You can go with a company that "claims" to do what the builder has said (look at all the updates on some of these rails) or you can buy something that has been designed very well and probably over built. My experience only consists of this rail, some prerunners and a truggy, which is class 1 legal but I bet this thing will walk all over some if not most of the cars I've seen built. Now with that, I may make this a roller and then end up selling it. I wish I had the time to complete but for the average guy who can bolt parts to a jig and weld them this is a perfect start especially for someone who wants to build it "to fit them." I bet if you priced out the parts you are only probably paying for 75% of them. If it sells, it sells...if not than other toys can go.
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07-08-2006, 05:23 AM
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#4 (permalink) |
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Vendor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Winder Georgia
Posts: 8,439
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im sure would be an exceptional deal, just thought you may be better to sell the parts, get mo off your money bsck, but will also take more time as well, sure you will sell tho!! 8)
__________________
Yrs of testing is not accomplished by owning something for yrs, You have to run it more than 20 laps 10 times a yr at the local 1/2 mile track. Sitting in the garage does not qualify as testing. |
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