1 3/8 Splined Shaft for Center Carrier

[ttginc]

I have an extra splined shaft and coupler that I was going to use for a center carrier. No machining has been done on either piece. I was going to part the coupler in two and weld each into a machined CV cup. I ended up using other bushings and a shaft I already had so I have no need for these now.

Involute Splined Shaft - 10" long 1 3/8" OD 21 tooth spline. Hub City Part #0332-00395

Involute Splined Coupling - 3" long 1 3/4" OD 1 3/8 ID 21 tooth part HC# 0332-00350
Hub City Inc - Non PTO Products

These would work great if you already have some CV cups you want to modify to build a spool set up.

The shaft will go for $75.00
The coupler is $30.00
I will sell both for $100

Buyer pays shipping, they'll fit in a small flat rate USPS box, so shipping would be $4.95 in the U.S.

PM if interested or with questions

Thanks,
Jeremy





My similar set up:

[plkracer]

Any clue what the material is? I have twisted two shafts so far, one was 1045 and the other is 1215 from G&G. I might have to get one made from 4140.

[RickS.]

Were the shafts you twisted splined for the entire length?
G&G also sells them splined only on the end.
I twisted the 6 spline center shaft on my 954 Piranha. (full splined shaft)
I replaced that one with one only splined on the end. No problem after that.

[ttginc]

plkracer - I am not sure what material it is but I would think it is cold rolled mild. Not sure of the grade exactly. Probably similar to 1215 G&G shaft, which is what I ended up using on my buggy. How long was the shaft you twisted?

RickS - The G&G shafts that are splined on the end only come in 6 or 12 inch lengths. Each is too long for my application. I would rather take my chances with a shortened fully splined shaft (5" long) than to cut down and weld together two splined ends. The splined ends on the G&G 12" shaft are 2.75" long on each end.

Jeremy

[RickS.]

Personaly I would not build a center axle with splined hubs on both ends.
The axle will be a lot stronger if you weld the cv flange to one end. (the sprocket side) and spline on the other. With splines you will get wear, and over time, slop. The sprocket side will get sloppy first, because it sees the most abuse. I know this from personal experience. By only having the splines at the end, your axle will be stronger and less likely to twist. You also won't need to purchase the extra spline hub.
When you make an axle with the splines only on the end, you can tap the spline hub all the way on. This helps remove any slop in the splines.

[ttginc]

I hadn't thought of that before. Thanks for the tip. If I have any issues with my current set up I'll try that. It would certainly be cheaper as well. Did you machine that shaft yourself? Is the sprocket side CV cup machined with the shaft?

Jeremy

[RickS.]

It's made from the 12" G&G shaft. The sprocket side flange is machined to press fit on, then welded on both sides. Then the welds are machined off and the hub face is trued up. The hub is chamfered deep on both sides for the weld. This way you can clean it up without removing too much weld.
This was an axle that I made a while back. Now I use the 21 spline.

[ttginc]

Yeah, it doesn't seem like it would be too hard to make. I thought I saw a heat zone ring on the free hub, but I wasn't sure because of the machining. Did you switch to the 21 spline because of a failure of the 6 spline or was it just a matter of precaution?

[plkracer]

My design loads the center of the shaft, and splits power out each side. There is only about an inch between the center section, and the cups on each side, so that is the part that twists. It twisted maybe 5 degrees? but now it won't come out without being cut, and the splines wore down where the bearing rides... So I have some slop.

[RickS.]

I've switched to 21 spline because the root diameter is a tiny bit larger, which means it's a little stronger. Also more spline surface area with 21 splines. I did not have a problem with the 6 spline.