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#5 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: East Texas
Posts: 20
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heavier weights=top end
lighter weights= low end 2200 high? when i was bog racing with my 700 atv i ran a 3800 engagement. can we say belt eater? the higher your engagement the higher your chances are of burning belts |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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You sure about that??? *More weight (heavier?) lowers engagement speed and usually starts to limit engine rpm due to flywheel effect, while less weight (lighter) increases the engagement speed and lets the engine rev freer. *On Honda Pilots running Power-Bloc primary clutches, each weight in the puck would change the engagement speed by approximately 250 rpm. *Usually ran 10-11 weights in each puck for short course and hard launches, and 13-15 for trail riding and "play".
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Breaking in belts also helps dramatically. btw - welcome to the site.
__________________
Yellow Dog Racing If it wasn't for Physics and the Ground, I'd be Unstoppable! Youth and Talent are No Match for Age and Treachery!
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#7 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: East Texas
Posts: 20
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yes my secondary is modified with an EPI TEAM helix, and the almond spring i believe is on the stouter end of EPI's springs.
Of course as far as belts burning i primarily used my 700 for mud riding and bog racing 29.5 Outlaws and 30" Mudzillas(didnt help belt issues) EPI, Dayco and Highlifter have teamed up to make an awesome belt for polaris and kawi's HL extreme duty belt $60 and worth it The way EPI explained the weight thing is: Lighter weights make it easier for your clutch to "spool up" or engage therefore giving you more power on the lower end because your engine isnt straining as hard heavier weights are harder to "spool" taking away some of your power but when you have them moving well the added momentum from the heavier weights takes less strain off of you engine when you are in the upper rpms (or mids depending on setup) I know on all of our atvs with CVT or PVT trannies we always used lighter weights in combination with stalls and secondary modifications. The "high speed" helix was probably one of the better clutch mods i did. I agree with proper break in makes a big difference. Also if you dont have to be in high then dont be especially with a polaris PVT low range will save belt life. Im not saying that im right and your wrong about the weights but thats my experience and thats the way i understood from EPI I know of some really helpful CVT/PVT *reading material on the web, ill have to see if i can find it |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Cool. *What's sort of interesting is, that in a sense, we're saying the same sort of thing. *Great info, by the way.
Higher engagement speed, as you've stated lets the engine spool up - and since CVT's work in torque sensing, it lets the engine get into it's power range before it starts putting the power to the ground. *Lower grunts a bit more - less performance. We're also using our clutches for different applications. *I (used to and will again soon) short course raced Stadium Lites and Desert Race. *You're playing in the mud with more of a drag racing and pulling style. *That right there shows that there are many setups that each require a different approach. I'm quite familiar w/the Team clutches -run them on both my desert cars. *GOOD UNITS!!! *They don't break like Arctic Cat secondaries. The best tuning info out there is by Olav Aaen - [url=http://www.aaenperformance.com/Snow_Home.asp:1lfn056z]Aaen Performance.[/url:1lfn056z] *It's pretty much the clutch tuning Bible.
__________________
Yellow Dog Racing If it wasn't for Physics and the Ground, I'd be Unstoppable! Youth and Talent are No Match for Age and Treachery!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: East Texas
Posts: 20
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Yeah Aaen gives good info, and there used to be a guy that hung out on HL's Forum by the name COB, he is also knows clutches very well.
Hopefully soon i will be using mine for a buggy application, hopefully in a RR frame |
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