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#52 (permalink) | |
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Vendor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: so cal
Posts: 90
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Quote:
the roof & those lights are about $500 EACH + a good light bar from a reputable shop is around $1,000 depending on design. Their's are almost always QD or bolt in [like mine]. They put them on just before dark so they don't have the weight or run the risk of smashing some lights until you really need them. Where would you propose we mount lights? Last edited by jp350; 07-20-2008 at 05:05 AM. |
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#53 (permalink) |
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Lights could be placed on the sides if you have nerf bars, but if you dont its the same result. Too big for front bar too..
Smaller lights are the only real save here, and you can probably find a set that puts out enough light for a racers need. |
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#55 (permalink) |
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JP - the work you do looks great!
A little powder coating and they'll be killer. ![]()
__________________
Yellow Dog Racing If it wasn't for Physics and the Ground, I'd be Unstoppable! Does your little mind get lost in your big head? |
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#56 (permalink) |
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Vendor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: so cal
Posts: 90
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Thanks K-fab. Powder coating would look nice or better yet custom graphics. I sell all my products raw so that the customer can coat to their preferance. However if a customer wanted me to arrange for powder coat I can do that. I also know a girl that does really nice custom paint.
I was out in the desert all day today laying out the course for the MDR night race next weekend. I should have some time tomarrow to get more aluminum work done. I will post more pics in a couple days or so. |
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#58 (permalink) |
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Vendor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: so cal
Posts: 90
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Here are pics of a full set of panels, a partial set on the car to show the air scoop cut out, the clamps & hardware that come standard, & samples of the optional Dzus hardware
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#60 (permalink) |
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Vendor
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: so cal
Posts: 90
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Thanks Jellybean. For those of you not familar with Dzus hardware I thought I would provide you with the names of the components & an explanation of how they work. In the upper left of the last pic in my previous post there is a lightweight tab. To the right of that is a standard 3" long tab. These are welded to the chassis to accept the button & spring. Directly below the lightweight tab is a spring. It is riveted to the tab after the tab is welded to the chassis & the chassis is recoated. At the bottom left you have a counter sunk [flushhead] Dzus button. These are also avaiable in a button head [domed]. After locating & marking the panel you punch a hole for the button to go through & in the case of the counter sunk button you dimple the panel with a special tool so that the button sits down in the dimple & flush with the top of the panel. The cam way cut in the button indexes on the spring & with just a quarter turn the button is firmly locked in place via the cam way & spring tension. At the bottom right there is a spring loaded captive button. These work the same as the standard Dzus button but are of a self ejecting type & are retained in their mount which is riveted to the panel.
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