My R82s Build

[malder]

So I've begun my build. This is my first attempt at any serious fabrication.

Progress so far:

Made up my project table. Not exactly to plan specs. I used 1/8" plate (should probably have sprung for the 1/4" plate) instead of wood top. It is also slightly larger than the plan calls for. I would build the table differently also - starting with the frame and then put the plate on. I just didn't have any way of moving that plate around.

I finally stopped trying to convert mm to inches and picked up a metric tape measure. Much easier that way. MUCH EASIER.

Started building the bottom layer. Didn't get very far, but hopefully will have more time this weekend. I only had my cell phone with me, so the photo quality isn't great. I'll get some better pictures as it evolves.

Question: Is there any trick to getting the angles on the square tubing to line up right? The best I've come up with is using cardboard to mock-up, cut the steel and then grind down to make a better fit.

Also - any tips/links would be much appreciated. I'm learning and acquiring tools as I go, so all help/tips are much appreciated.

[K-fab]

Tack weld everything first. *Once you get the chassis tacked together and more or less finished out, then go back and weld everything.

[malder]

I've garnered that tip from lurking on MBN for a while. I do have a follow-up on that topic, though. How much do I need to tack it? Just one small zap on one side? Just enough that it doesn't fall apart? I am afraid that I will not tack it enough and something will move and ruin my best efforts to have everything straight and true... *[smilie=big_hang.gif] On the other hand I don't want to tack it too much and have a big mistake that is nigh impossible to correct.

[plkracer]

I make a pea sized tack in a corner, not on the top. It makes it a biotch to weld around if you put it on top. Then you recheck it, and tack the other corner on top. Once you make sure it is flat, tack the bottom, but since you have a steel table, dont tack at the bottom. You don't want to lift the assembly either, so just take it on the vertical like 1/2 or maybe 2/3 of the way down. For round tube, I just make 4 small tacks around it. You will see the metal get red and melt once you make a good tack, then stop. A small tack like that is really easy to cut with a die grinder with a cutting wheel.

[plkracer]

To get everything lines up on mine, I drew lines on my board, then then screwed in pieces of wood so the tubing would be locked in. You can tack weld pieces of sq tube or angle and it should work the same.

[Bugpac]

Did you spray your table surface, pam works good, or rub some crisco on it with wax paper....

[K-fab]

I usually tack in two or three spots equally spaced. *Like plk said - a pea sized spot. *The number of spots sort of depends on where/what you're attaching. *If it's something like a triangulation brace, two spots on opposite sides of the tube work well, three for corners and butts and such. *Equal spacing between the tacks helps avoid draw and pull.

If you get good penetration, it's actually quite impressive how well just two spots will hold (and how hard it is to move the tube you just put in the wrong spot... * )

[Pacman]

Originally Posted by malder\";p=\&quot

Question: Is there any trick to getting the angles on the square tubing to line up right?

What are you using to cut the steel with? The best is a cold saw or steel bandsaw......short of that.....before I got my band saw I used a sawzall with good metal blades and I would mark the sq. tube with a sharpie on all 4 sides where it needed to be cut....then I would cut each side by itself.....ie: clamp it in the vise....cut the top...rotate it 90* cut the next "top" and so on.....that way I ended up with a real good fit....a bit more work but less grinding and weld filling!

[malder]

I bought a dewalt chop saw for the project. It's working good, but I feel like there should be an easier way to calculate my angles/cuts. Maybe I'm wrong.

I have not sprayed my table, but I remember reading about doing that now that you mention it. I'll bring some pam with me to the shop today. I should have a couple hours to work on it today.

[malder]

I've got the bottom layer all tacked up. I did a little more than tack on a couple parts just to make sure it would stay together. I think if it needs to be taken apart on those seams I'll just start over.

As with most things I build it never comes out perfect. Is a ~2% margin of error ok? I was going for perfection, but it just isn't. A mm here a cm there. I really am liking the whole metric thing. Also, the tubing that was available for me was obviously not metric, so that threw off some measurements. I tried to get the outside dimensions to line up as best I could.

Now I get to start on the round tube. I have to get a 1.25" die for the tubing bender. I've found it for ~$120. Is that an ok price?