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#11 (permalink) | |
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Yrs of testing is not accomplished by owning something for yrs, You have to run it more than 20 laps 10 times a yr at the local 1/2 mile track. Sitting in the garage does not qualify as testing. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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$3,000 dollars.
I know this guy. * Busa motors are more I think? Plus then a FNR? And because of being in the business of buggies I have left over parts No one does VW hardley anymore so I have them left over. Plus I have my old race motor from a few years ago. I was going to use it. I also have 4 or more transmissions, beams etc. So motor and tranny is free on this one. I can do a mid engine and really shrink this car up. Do you guys think I should go smaller? Actually I can go smaller with this car because of the large fuel cell being removed. Is smaller what you guys think I need? Also how much does a motorcycle engine weight? Cost? Fnr? And how big? My VW takes up a total of 24 inches. I can fit it with exhaust into 24 inches of room. So thats not to bad and its off the back of the car so thats easy. Should I shrink up the cab area? I was going to lower the sides already more sand car style. I like the score lite idea. I can start something like this also. Thanks. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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I would build the same car but put A-arms up front. *Keep the training arms in the rear. *I actually already looked at how easy it would be to adapt A-arms to your current car. *Beams are great and are quite deceiving as to how well they work in the dirt but I just like a-arms a lot more. *I'll bet it would be a hell of a lot cheaper to do arms as well. *As I'm sure you know, once you get into the high end beam stuff it get's pretty expensive. *If you got a VW motor already I would just run that. *If not I'd do a busa/zx-14 + reverse box. *Once you get a built 091 you're well past what a busa and reverse box would cost. *Just my $.02 and I can't wait to see what you come up with *
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#14 (permalink) |
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Thanks,
Ya your right the Tranny is 3,000 and the motor is 3,000 so I am at atleast 6,000 if all goes well sometimes things are bad etc and I need even more. This project was more of a use my old stuff type deal and maybe sell it so I can do a much better version. I could do A-Arms not saying I cannot I was just using the beam as it fits into my class of racing and if I need parts etc it can cross over from the play car to the race car. But if I sell this car I can afford to do a much better car with duel shocks etc. So maybe build a car for less now and then sell it use the money to do an even better version? Maybe thats what I should be looking into? Hmm ok. Heck sell the race car and the next car and build a really long travel mini buggy with A-Arms all around! Oh no my brain cant take all this. [smilie=ecstatic.gif] * [smilie=big_explode.gif] Thanks guys. ![]() |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Baja California Sur, Mexico
Posts: 359
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TutTech,
I like your race car and think its a very well planned out vehicle, I also see how it could handle as you envisioned it to, it sounds like you get more travel than it seems from the pics, its a good solid design, proven(from your race)and its yours! so there fore, should be the base for the next,IMHO. I agree with flyerrider, in part, but I think you should do some J arms in the front, along the lines of a front end of an R82s (for reference purposes only), this will allow you to keep the short front end and not extend trying to accomodate A arms. Vdub's are classics and do perform exceptionaly well, you know simplicity, but it does give you a big heavy ass, a little room and length could be spared, and not to mention wait, thats the other thing, I do agree that, reinforment = safety, and thats ALWAYS good, but it might be good to lighten it up a bit, and with a bike or sled engine you lose a lot of bulk weight in the rear that will most likely improve the handling and stability of the vehicle. I think it would look cool too. Beyond that not much I would change, but thats just for me, seeing myself driving in an all desert no sand environment. But good luck it will be nice to watch you build. ![]() |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Why do a J-arm in the front? *Typically J-arms are used to clear the engine in a front engine truck. *J-arms are a little harder to build and fine tuning castor is a lot harder than with a conventional A-arm. *I can see trying to keep the front end short but having a center mounted lower kind of defeats the purpose if you are talking about foot room. *Are you talking about both upper and lowers being J-arms?
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Baja California Sur, Mexico
Posts: 359
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J-arms just seem to be able to "hug" the chassis better and still provide plenty of travel. I would place the front heim mounts on the inside of the front nose tubes and the rear side heim mounts just a bit forword of center, so that you can still keep all the leg room in the cockpit. I have an image here somewhere, it'll help explain what my poor wording cant.
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#18 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Baja California Sur, Mexico
Posts: 359
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Now I am no CAD expert, nor am I an engineer, and with all truth being said I dont know what the F I am talking about, but it makes sense to me. Here is a quick and rough idea of what I was trying to explain. There was a pic on here somewhere that showed it better, but I cant seem to find it. Any ways.
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#19 (permalink) |
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I have J-arms on my sand rail here.
![]() And see how they keep the front very small? Both top and bottom arms are J-arms and they end back by my pedals giving me lots of leg room. They come straight out accross the front of the car and then J back towards the rear of the car. Allowing your feet etc to be able to come farther foward. I have actually looked into A-arms for my car at work today. At work I can use an actual jig so this is good so I dont have to make jigs and try to set up my own arms again from scratch. Heres what we have our smallest pair of A-arms are 19 inches from front to back. Where the two Heims mount to allow the arm to pivot up and down. From the Beam on my car towards back of car I have 17 inches of room. So I currently have 17 inches and would only have to extend the front 3 more inches to allow for A-arms. You can see in this photo the beam to the first support bar is pretty far. And this is where the body starts. ![]() Also inside my car where my pedals stop I have 9 inches out in front of them. (towards the front of the car but inclosed inside my body panels.) So actually I can move some bars around and not make the car any longer at all and shrink the front body by 3 inches. I can bolt my A-Arms straight through the tubes with bosses and straight into the inside of the car. With this in mind I can actually extend the front out 5 inches giving me plenty of room for my a-arms and thus giving me a 100 inch wheel base. But I think I would like to do this on my next Race Car! Well I have so many dang VW Beams laying around I would like to use up etc. Dang.... Anyways in the future or what not I can do the a-arms with some very minor changes and I would be all set. Thanks alot guys. * ![]() |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Mid engine VW car so you can lengthen the trailing arms and get more travel along with a-arms in the front for more travel there as well. *
You can do a mid engine with a VW transaxle right? *Don't you just flip it upside down and run it out the back? *Not too familiar with VW stuff. |
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