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    Re: Yerf ninja build
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    Ran into a snag...I put the chain from motor to the jackshaft on and it's clear that the 2 shafts are not parallel. The frame is not perfectly symmetrical so it was hard to find alignment points to start with, but measuring from the ninja swingarm mounting holes on each side to the jackshaft is within 1/8in. That wouldnt seem to account for the angle I'm seeing so I'm thinking the coupling off the ninja countershaft isnt aligned.

    Problem there is how to tell if the bearing is centered over the counter shaft since the coupling just flops around without the bearing to hold in place. Pic is post 174 on page 18 if none of this makes any sense. Anyway, I feel like I need to confirm that the shaft is aligned slightly rather than re-mount the engine cradle to straighten the chain. Any ideas? thanks!
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
    Millenium Member Xbird's Avatar
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    that is the biggest headache building these rear end types. your stuck with figuring out how to knock over the least dominos. if you have the leading shaft back to the wheel axle shafts on the money, it's easier to work either the engine/subframe mount into true with some tubing slot cuts and re-welds on one side to suck it in or to use the extension shaft bearing mount for adjustment with the caveat that the shaft might be sitting on the splines slightly off angle. how much off angle "float" of the shaft hub on the output shaft you can live with or get away with is ?????
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
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    I dont want any angle on the ninja countershaft cause I'm afraid it will wear. The last thing I want to do is yank the engine and replace the countershaft. I just cant figure out how to check it.

    Btw, just did the math and 1/8in over 28in is .5 degrees, so it's not the frame. So must be the bearing location, or engine is tilted in the cradle.

    Just occurred to me I can weld a 2nd sprocket onto the first sprocket, which should minimize or eliminate any angle. If I cant find a smoking gun this is an option.
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
    Millenium Member Xbird's Avatar
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    I cracked my extension frame hangar last race. just got to working on it today. typical ironic timing to this discussion. after 2 seasons, my countershaft and the inside spline of the sprocket center in the extension is looking a little rough--the extension shaft center is the worst part of it, splines are pretty shot. I did have one occurrence early on last season where the shaft moved out and rode in the snap ring groove chewing things up. Since i started running the short course events this season, i know I'm hitting it at the start a lot harder than i ever have, i always launch "soft" normally. That's most likely what cracked the thin wall tubing up on my hangar frame.

    A second sprocket is not a bad idea, the more spline contact the better. it will also help you align it a bit easier. I just welded the splined lock ring to mine to hopefully get me through the last race this weekend. Swingarm bushings are seized inside the case halves on this engine, having to split it is going to be hell. If i can't come up with a better extension shaft I may be going down that road.
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
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    wow, that sucks Bird. Good luck!

    I'll keep muckin with mine. I'm now certain the bearing just needs to be aligned.
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
    Millenium Member Xbird's Avatar
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    yeah, it's racing though. given the short stub one has to work with coming off the engine, getting the bearing in position and on a "true-to the jackshaft" alignment is a challenge. if you have a way of getting an extending rod in between the two shafts and have room on either side of the sprockets, you can modify one of those hood prop jobs they sell in auto parts stores as a large scale inside macrometer of sorts. i use long steel rules from sprocket to sprocket side, but if one shifts a little off perpendicular, the accuracy goes out the window. things also get in the way of that depending on what chain run im setting up.
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
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    I think I got it. The bearing brace I built is a tripod, so I just tried some diff washers on each leg until my calibrated finger gauge said the bearing is close enough to center. Chain is straight now and the shaft just slides right in. It was binding a little before - should have been a clue really.
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
    Millenium Member Xbird's Avatar
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    Nice, have a chain tensioner worked up yet? that gets to be a bugger with the shifter and everything else going on in that area.
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
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    yeah, I made up the first tensioner for the main chain today but I'm struggling with how to do the 2 secondary chains. They're 116 links, so very long. I want the tensioner near the front sprocket to maximize ground clearance, but if I push the slack side (bottom) towards the top they actually meet. Yet there still isnt enough slack to take a link out. If I push the bottom side chain down it's very low, looks stupid and will probably hit on a rock or something. I think i need to make a double tensioner like on an old ten speed bike.

    hey, anybody use skateboard wheels for chain tensioner rollers? Other ideas? thanks!
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    Re: Yerf ninja build
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    Generally don't you want the tensioner on the bottom right before the rear sprocket to give more wrap on it and generally get the chain higher up out of the way? Unless sysou had a large tensioner that took up more space than the chain... But the rear sprocket is larger so right in front of it there is more distance between the top and bottom chain so they shouldn't hit if the tensioner is there. If I am thinking correctly that is
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