ST2 LT In Progress - Help me overcome its flaws :)

[Daniel Dk]

Originally Posted by skmergen

Great work. I also started building a badlandbuggy. It is a ST3. You can see my works here Buggy Ýmalatý .

Thanks for the link i took the liberty to translate it - heres the link for the rest of you guys Translated version of http://www.gezenbilir.com/index.php?topic=24145.0=

[daaboots]

This shot looks awesome! How wide are those rear tires? Very nice.

Originally Posted by Daniel Dk

[Daniel Dk]

Thanks Daaboots

They are 12 inches wide and 23 inches tall - i might go with a taller tire next time as they look a bit to small when viewed from the side... the rims are douglas "red labels" 10x10 on the rear and 10x7 on the front. I am quite impressed by the quality and apparant strength of the rims...

[wyattboche]

Originally Posted by Daniel Dk

Hi Wyattboche


Short answers - YES and YES

Because it is a v-twin the front cylinder sticks out a long way pushing the seat forward, tilting the engine ever so slightly also made routing the chain a lot easier and gave me som much needed clearance between the chain and engine block.

I've been reading up on various suzuki boards and the general concensius is that the sv1000 does not like to be wheelied. However since i'm only tilting the engine about 10 degrees and not vertical like a wheelie - and i plan to add a little extra oil to keep the level above normal range, i think i will be allright...


Regarding COG. - Yes i would have loved to bring the engine further down but it is impossible because of the limited space down there. I flirted with the idear to extend the back of the cart to make enough room, but it needed a whopping 12 inches to fit in front of the drive unit... Its all about compromises i guess

AH I see now. I extended my cockpit 6 inches and I still ended up with mine on top.here's a pic of when I built mine when the first ST2 plans came out.
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/m...oche/buggy.jpg

[wyattboche]

Daniel,
How is it geting in and out of the cockpit with the two tubes added for support? That must be a ST2 upgrade?

[Daniel Dk]

Originally Posted by wyattboche

Daniel,
How is it geting in and out of the cockpit with the two tubes added for support? That must be a ST2 upgrade?

Wyatt,

Yeah thats my own idea - the engine has 8 mounting points and the thought of only using 4 of them didn't appeal to me, so i added the two tubes. Because i tilted the engine back a bit - the last 4 mounting points lined up making everything much easier. To remove the engine one just have to remove the eight bolts holding the tube and then slide the engine forward through the cockpit.

I don't have a picture af the final result but, here is an in-progress picture...



Oh and i saw your buggy on the BB website before i started the project - it looked like you guys had fun!


Cheers

Daniel

[buggito]

Nice job start to look like mine ;0).

Where did you get the flange for the bearing and what size are they ?

Thanks,


I don't know how powerful is your motor but try to keep the shaft as short as you can , if you can go with a 1 1/4 it make a huge dif. between 1" and 1 1/4", I shear the key way at my first out, other tips insure the sprocket is a Very tight fit and set screw are tight, use Whitlock Medium, if you use the Hight strength you may not be able to remove them.

I just bent two 1/8 wrench to have them out.

[buggito]

Don't do like me try to built with what you have and end up by cutting it and make longer to fit everything, :0((, that what I'm doing right know, look under C-clip post.

Be sure that you can put tension OR tensioner on both chains . Check my build as well or PM me for specific questions you may have.

[Daniel Dk]

Originally Posted by buggito

Nice job start to look like mine ;0).

Where did you get the flange for the bearing and what size are they ?

Thanks,


I don't know how powerful is your motor but try to keep the shaft as short as you can , if you can go with a 1 1/4 it make a huge dif. between 1" and 1 1/4", I shear the key way at my first out, other tips insure the sprocket is a Very tight fit and set screw are tight, use Whitlock Medium, if you use the Hight strength you may not be able to remove them.

I just bent two 1/8 wrench to have them out.

Hi Buggito,

Looking more and more like yours eh? I take that as a compliment thanks!



All bearings flanges and bushings are from SKF.

heres a link to the bearings and flanges:
large 50mm:
SKF - Product data

25mm (1") bearings for the jackshaft:
SKF - Product data

and the overview in case you need another size :
SKF - Product data

I paid 215$ a piece for the large bearings and 56$ a piece for the smaller ones.




Heres a dyno chart of the sv1000 i'm using 2005 Suzuki SV-1000 High Pipe Dyno Chart

It doesn't make much power at just over 100 hp but it does make a lot of torque all the way up to 10k rpm. The axle i'm using is cryo treated but if it should twist or break i will upgrade it to a larger diameter. I will be taking it easy on it's maiden voyage tho . The Sprockes has intigrated taper-bushings and they are a VERY tight fit on the axle and key. If it is fubar i will upgrade the axle - it isn't too expensive at just under 200$ for bearings, axle, and taper bushings...

Anyway.. I will keep an eye out for trouble with the jack shaft! Thanks for the advice!

As for the chain - The whole idear of building the box like i have is to be able to tighten the chains individually - it can be done by first loosening all the bolts holding the thing together. Then turning another 12mm(1/2") bolt until the chain i taught. And finally tightening everything back up - locking it in place.

another thing, I'm using the chain from the bike - it's a 530 o-ring chain but, thats all i know - i have no idear how strong it is or how well it will cope with the heat being so short and all. So if you guys have any input on that - i'm all ears


Cheers
Daniel

[buggito]

Wow these bearing are not cheap, I will stick with my plan, SKF 6210 and custom alu flange , may have some 7000 series laying around. For the 1" flange bearing I bough them out of Kaman Industries, NTN, $18.00 a pop, I use four of them just for the shaft, the second shaft I had was SS it seems that it hold better than the first one.