Rhino built for sand

[adubaz7]

I have an 05 Rhino that I have dismantled am going to upgrade mostly for dune use. I am new to the fabrication thing so I will need some input, Thanks in advance for any help.
My project will include building an entire cage around the factory main frame also building the suspension and installing an SV650 Suzuki engine.
So far I have pretty much stripped the machine down and am going to start with the suspension. This is the area I will need the most help though.
I will be using a rear center drive from Protodie as well as their rear outrights making leaving me to need 930 CV's.
I plan to start with the hardest part first wich to me appears to be the front suspension, I plan to use the factory spindles and front brakes. Is there something I can read to understand how to build my A-Arms correctly or if there is only a few things to watch for please bring these to my attention.

[Gene]

Play with the suspension calculator at this site to begin to understand mounting points and kingpin inclination. The objective is to have negative camber change throughout the suspension cycle.

It might be - 1 or 2 when at full droop and minus 2 or so at full bump. As it cycles up and down it may touch 0 camber. Ideally it would have negative camber throughout.
Racing Aspirations - a Formula 750 constructors diary (Fiat FIRE 1108) - Suspension Geometry Calculator

[peterj]

Add that link to "favorites"!

[ffjosh]

From what I have been thinking the rear end is the hardest for me. To make things easier I am making trailing arms....I will be updating my thread tommorow

[adubaz7]

Originally Posted by ffjosh

From what I have been thinking the rear end is the hardest for me. To make things easier I am making trailing arms....I will be updating my thread tommorow

What are you thinking makes the rear difficult I see that to be the easy part but maybe I am overlooking something

[ffjosh]

Originally Posted by adubaz7

What are you thinking makes the rear difficult I see that to be the easy part but maybe I am overlooking something

I guess its more of a combo of things.
Find out where I want the engine
Then get the sprocket lined up with the engine or vise versa.
Make sure the trailing arms are equal width a part from the carrier so the axles are the same length.
Machining and welding the axles to the stubs
Making the trailing arms match up to my stock hubs
Just a quick run down lol.

As for the front all I am doing is making a jig for the stock a – arms measuring out 9 inches and making a new set with hiem joints.

Maybe I am missing some haha.

Looking forward to see what you do.

[adubaz7]

Originally Posted by ffjosh

I guess its more of a combo of things.
Find out where I want the engine
Then get the sprocket lined up with the engine or vise versa.
Make sure the trailing arms are equal width a part from the carrier so the axles are the same length.
Machining and welding the axles to the stubs
Making the trailing arms match up to my stock hubs
Just a quick run down lol.

As for the front all I am doing is making a jig for the stock a – arms measuring out 9 inches and making a new set with hiem joints.

Maybe I am missing some haha.

Looking forward to see what you do.

Sounds to me like the hard part is making the trailing arms work it seems to me that doing A-Arms would be so much more simple
1 No modification to rear hub/ spindle
2 much easier to find correct length for axles
3 the inner a-arm mounts are already there as well as the outer on the spindle/ hub
4 the factory geometry seems to work fine

as for the mounting of the engine should be easy if you plan to widen the body/chasis if not then it might be a little bit of a pain

[ffjosh]

Originally Posted by adubaz7

Sounds to me like the hard part is making the trailing arms work it seems to me that doing A-Arms would be so much more simple
1 No modification to rear hub/ spindle
2 much easier to find correct length for axles
3 the inner a-arm mounts are already there as well as the outer on the spindle/ hub
4 the factory geometry seems to work fine

as for the mounting of the engine should be easy if you plan to widen the body/chasis if not then it might be a little bit of a pain

Ya, I am cutting off the entire rear end of the rhino.

I should have just made a new frame haha

[adubaz7]

Originally Posted by Gene

Play with the suspension calculator at this site to begin to understand mounting points and kingpin inclination. The objective is to have negative camber change throughout the suspension cycle.

It might be - 1 or 2 when at full droop and minus 2 or so at full bump. As it cycles up and down it may touch 0 camber. Ideally it would have negative camber throughout.
Racing Aspirations - a Formula 750 constructors diary (Fiat FIRE 1108) - Suspension Geometry Calculator

Ok I think I understand all of that and my setup should work fine looks as though I will see about 1-2 degree + at full droop and be in the - mostly the entire sweep though

What about Caster angles how important is this
If I am thinking correctly the Caster is mostly noticed by how hard the wheel pulls from your hands. In other words when driving and letting go of the wheel if there is no caster the car will pull hard to one side where as if you have some caster it will track strait with less feedback
Also howmuch do you guys usually recomend running and how do you decide

[adubaz7]

Originally Posted by ffjosh

Ya, I am cutting off the entire rear end of the rhino.

I should have just made a new frame haha

I am not sure what do you believe the benifits are of cutting the back off and running trailling arms