EcoTec-ing??

[plkracer]

Sooo.. what is there to it? I've noticed there are 3 sizes, a 2.0, usually super or turbocharged, a 2.2 NA, and a 2.4 NA, and maybe a coupel other variations, but which one for our applications? Also, what wiring will I need, just the engine harness, or for the whole car? What modifications to the harness will I need to do? I don't mind getting or downloading a service manual and doing it myself. Also, will the stock computer and sensors (do I need them all?) work with an aftermarket/ homemade exhaust and air filter? How do you pull oiff the power steering? Is a block off plate needed?

As far as cost, what would it be to send in the harness to make it off-road ready? What is the cost of n adapter flywheel and a drive clutch? Which drive clutch is preferred?

Thanks, and I'll add more as the thread continues.

[nutz4sand]

I look forward to the answers as well. But my thoughts on the P.S.

I would not doubt there is an idler pulley for the power steering but with so many trying to add power steering you might be finding leaving it on and using it if you go this way. Buggy will be a bit heavier with this motor. Might be a nice thing to have in your back pocket so to speak.

[standfast]

2.2 NA is the most common. The SC variants are very expensive.

If you plan to use the stock engine management you need to have to computer hacked to turn off the VATS (vehicle anti theft system). There is a bit of harness sorting to do if you go this route. The other option is to use a Delphi system like all the buggy builders are doing. Simple plug and play wiring harness with a sealed computer that is quite small. This option is about $1000. ELECTRIC WIND,LLC Very easy 1 hour install. There is several places that will mod the stock computer out there. I know Fodrill in AZ is able to. I know Danzio can do it as well. Not sure on the cost though.

You will only need the engine wiring harness.

The PS is not belt driven. It is driven off the end of one of the camshafts up high on the head. Pretty good idea IMO. One less thing to load the belt. The belt will only drive the alternator at this point as the water pump is chain driven internally. If you remove the PS, a simple block of plate needs to be put on.

Comet drive clutch. Team driven.

I attached some reference photos. You can see the 2 bolt flange at the end of the cylinder head where the PS pump is driven.

[whiplash]

If you want to use the stock computer, I would go with HP tuners and then you can program it yourself to delete any check iengine codes you might need to get rid of. I have done this with the LS1 engines in larger sand rails, it works better than the Delphi box because it can run an O2 sensor in each bank and correct fuel in addition to running the MAF sensor on the intake, GM didn't create that AWESOME computer for nothing, you can even set it up with fail safes just like in the cars so you can't hurt it! Just takes a little schooling on your part to figure the software out but you won't be disappointed! I actually got real close to doing all the N/A engines for the GM Ecotec Drag racing team with my previous business its a GREAT little engine! Even the N/A version will make like 300HP before it lets go turbocharged and with just pistons swapped for forged units it will make up to 400 and be reliable if the tune is ON so you don't detonate and bend rods. I was really debating one of these for my rail but I didn;t think I had the room and I thought I would be bummed when I found out the CVT can't handle the power I could make.

[standfast]

Originally Posted by whiplash

If you want to use the stock computer, I would go with HP tuners and then you can program it yourself to delete any check iengine codes you might need to get rid of. I have done this with the LS1 engines in larger sand rails, it works better than the Delphi box because it can run an O2 sensor in each bank and correct fuel in addition to running the MAF sensor on the intake, GM didn't create that AWESOME computer for nothing, you can even set it up with fail safes just like in the cars so you can't hurt it! Just takes a little schooling on your part to figure the software out but you won't be disappointed! I actually got real close to doing all the N/A engines for the GM Ecotec Drag racing team with my previous business its a GREAT little engine! Even the N/A version will make like 300HP before it lets go turbocharged and with just pistons swapped for forged units it will make up to 400 and be reliable if the tune is ON so you don't detonate and bend rods. I was really debating one of these for my rail but I didn;t think I had the room and I thought I would be bummed when I found out the CVT can't handle the power I could make.

The delphi units can use the o2 sensor and knock sensor as well. Ecotec's don't use MAF sensors either for air metering. They use MAP sensors. After you spend $500 on HP Tuners and fiddling with the wiring harness for a weekend, I would just use the Delphi unit. My engine started right away and ran great with the delphi unit that was built to take the abuse/vibrations and moisture that you will experience.

[vidio1]

I've posted a few links in the past for the Ecotec. 2.2L is the most popular as stated but there isn't HPTuners support for it. It only supports earlier versions of the 2.2L like out of the Cavaliers. Less HP than newer. You would have to use EFI Live. The 2.0L is Supercharged and now TurboCharged for '08. They make 205 and 260 HP. HPTuners does support the 2.0L and 2.4L though. The Delphi would be the way to go, IMO, for anything out of the car as the GM computer babysits the engine so much if you fart very loud near the car it throws a code........

[whiplash]

Well I understand the difficulty of getting it tuned nice in the first place will be a small challenge but not that bad unless you do a ton of mods to it right off the bat and then try to tune it the fist time. The fact is, if you run it as delivered it is quite easy to delete the items not needed for the buggy and it will run fine as long as you run the MAF (Yes it uses one), the O2's and the other little sensors for the engine (Map, ECT, ETC). Bottom line is you have control of your tuning not just whats delivered in the black box. But the box is surely easier just not as nice..

[plkracer]

What equipment is needed to reconfigure the stock computer? My uncle has a tech 2 if that is any help. Also, do you need the stock harness with the delphi system?

[standfast]

Originally Posted by plkracer

What equipment is needed to reconfigure the stock computer? My uncle has a tech 2 if that is any help. Also, do you need the stock harness with the delphi system?

My ecotec did not have a MAF. It has a intake manifold MAP sensor. And HPTuners is available for the Ecotec. They gave me a quote on it.

Tec 2 will leave with more headaches and setup issues than anything. You will need a 60 tooth trigger wheel that will need to be adapted to it and then you will need to abandon the COP system for their older GM tower coil setup. The electromotive is a decent unit but it is definately not the system of choice for this engine. You want to retain the stock COP and ion pulse input system. You will be downgrading the system otherwise.

The delphi setup comes WITH a full wiring harness that is labeled and loomed nicely with the expensive braided loom stuff etc, has outputs for fans and fuel pumps so it primes fuel correctly, turns fans on when you need em etc. I am telling you guys, once you install the system you will see it's worth every penny. It makes it so easy. For the price you can get an ecotec for you should be able to splurge a little bit on the engine management and not spend a bunch of time trying to get the car to run. It's worth it to me. I am telling you guys, you can install the delphi unit in one hour and have the car running. This includes mounting the computer, wiring the fuel pump and fans etc. IT IS WAY TOO EASY. The end result will be much cleaner and more reliable. I was planning on using a stock wiring harness and have about 4-5 hours cleaning a stock harness up and it was not done. I didn't even get into hacking the computer yet. I finally decided I would just spend the extra $500 and have a system that is built for offroad use, and has a wiring harness that doesn't need a bunch of extensions/shortening and splices in it. BTW, the same Delphi system is what is used in Robby Gordon's Dakar Hummer if it gives it anymore credibility to anyone.

[buggito]

Lucky you I'm just leaning about all this, see project bradEco, FIRST all ecotec are not equal, the Saturn are not Tunable, so you get "stuck" with pontiac and chevy, the ecotec 2.2 is a NA, the 2.0 is turbo charged and the new car 07 to 08 come with the 2.4.
The harness can be modified, by enginewiring.com, he just did mine, no I have no affiliation with him ( TOM). I had to use a BMC (Body Module control) and switch/key.
The Harness was cut AFTER the ECU and he was able to make it work. What ever motor you chose it's best and WAY cheaper to buy the car, they can be found around 2K, you can sell the seat, body part and fews nick nack and end up by having he car free, the motor, trans, ecu, wire harness, fuel pump, shifter, exhaust, engine support, switch, radiator and other can be reuse, that what I'm doing on my project, I even use the strut and sub frame , sorry getting away from the topic.
Having the wire harness done is easy and cheaper, just few wire to hook and you ready to go