The Best Hayabusa Turbo Combo

[bdkw1]

Originally Posted by arrowhead

If we buy 10 we can get them for $1800

Hmmm, the new managment seems to have really raised the prices. That's about twice what they were.

[slowbriggs]

You will want a turbo in the T3 frame size for the busa engine. You should be able to put out 300 to the wheels, properly tuned. Do not go the import route (china) for the turbo. You can build turbo set ups cheap if you research and stick with your plan. I can not tell you the best turbo for your application as I have not played with a turbo busa engine, but have played with a few suzuki turbo bikes that run mid 6's (race bike)and low 9's (street bike) Both bikes use the T-3 frame. There are different wheels and housing available to match YOUR requirements, not that of a street driven bike that sees WOT for 5 secs at a clip. You want out of the hole power or top end power? Bigger exhaust A/R is laggier. Bigger compressor A/R moves more air. You can not cheap out on the fuel system or engine management. This means do NOT use an FMU. An fmu is a bandaid. Being that you will be playing in the dunes, running under extended load (boost) I would put an charge air cooler in the system. The next most important part will be a intake air temp sensor. This will need to be mounted just before throttle blade of the intake. It is just as important to monitor the air intake temp sensor as it is to have a wideband sensor. Use a megasuirt engine managment unit. That offers you an unlimited amount of tuning options, fuel maps, ignition maps etc. Tie in your intake air sensor to pull timing as your temps rise to prevent detnation. Stay away from auto tune features. The less knowledable will swear by them, but hat is because they don't know what they are doing, so it works for them. Take the time to learn how to tune. The internet will be your friend in this department. Here is the cheapest wideband sensor set up on the market.
JAW
I have one and it works well.
Turbo engines need load to be tuned. The best load is actual test driving. Monitor the wideband sensor. Add fuel as needed. Pull one degree of timing per pound of boost. Keep your air fuel ratio (wideband reading) in the 11.xx range and you will be good. This will be a very rewarding porject when all is said and done. Good luck.

[trojan]

I agree there slowbrigs, except with respect to auto tune. It's often not done properly.

From an electronics perspective, piggbacks are a poor substitute for not being able to do the job properly.

Autronic - Fuel Injection Systems, ECU SM4

If you gave me a Haltec I wouldn't even use it as a paper weight, I'd be too embarrassed. Great general purpose ECU, but not really intended for serious engine control, at least from an electronic design perspective. I have come to this understanding because I have perused dumps of code from many factory and after market ECUs and I'm sometimes consulted by an un-named ECU manufacturer (not autronic) on complex matters such as... auto-tune... If you haven guessed, I'm a Hacker's Hacker (in the old school sense of the word) - I write code and design electronics, amongst many other things

From a computer perspective (I'll use the SM4 as an example, it's CPU runs at 16MHz) when the motor is running at 10,000 rpm the ECU can execute 260+ instructions per crank degree of rotation. Since all the really complex equations have their results precomputed and stored in tables, this gives the ECU enough time to SLEEP between doing stuff - even at high RPM.... eg. the most instructions an efficient ECU does in one ECU management cycle is about 60.
The issue is with the wideband sensors response time. It can only measure (again at 10,000 rpm) every 30 crank rotations. So when initially auto tuning you must use this fact rather than ignore it and move gently between load zones. There is a safety factor built in to stop you killing the motor but you will get better results if it's done gently. The dunes would be an excellent place to do this with all the long and varying grades. Once the maps have been completed you can go back to open loop and flog the mutha out of it.
Also utilising a narrow band, which has 1/6 the response time of the wideband can be very helpful, again from the ecu's perspective.

BTW I think the SM4 has "anti-lag" which sounds awesome and looks fierce breathing fire... sure it doesn't do your engine any favours

[whiplash]

What doe sthis unit cost? Can it be adapted easily to any engine like a carbureted Kawasaki ZX9R engine?

[trojan]

Dunno about cost, check with the dealers http://www.autronic.com.au/Dealer%20...4JULY%2008.pdf there's heaps in the US.
I doubt you would want an ECU for that ZX9. You probably want a programmable CDI?

[whiplash]

Well I figured when the time comes for the turbo it will have to have an after market injection system for the tuning.

[dunerocket]

Whiplash, Maybe the throttle bodies/injectors from a ZX10R would work. I'd bet that would beat turboing through the carbs.

[trojan]

Go the programmable CDI for now and get an already injected motor to turbo when the time comes.
If you want to learn the whole system from the ground up, by all means turbo the ZX9 (I agree with dunerocket, go the throttle bodies) - you'll learn heaps!!! The experience will be very rewarding if you're into that sort of thing but it will be demoralising if you are not....

I wanted to add re: auto tune, most auto tune routines do in software exactly what MF is doing with data-loggers in one way or another. Some have a target AFR for each load site and creep gently from very rich up to the target AFR without getting (much) KNOCK change. A problem people can have in some ECUs is that the routine is set way too "hard" ie: can take up to 20 minutes at the load site to effect a leaner change, so some load sites never get set properly.

[standfast]

Thats funny, I have used the Haltech E6K (the old unit) to control a 4cyl engine perfectly to 650hp running 38psi. Worked GREAT for me.

Anyway, like I said earlier. Stay away from running a aftermarket computer on a 8 psi turbo setup. Not worth the trouble at all.

[arrowhead]

Thanks Guys
Now that was some very informative info

Dale