The Best Hayabusa Turbo Combo

[enemy]

Originally Posted by masterfabr

I missed this post.I agree completely.

+2 ..Completely. Again on suzukihayabusa.org as well. Enough info on there to turn ya into a zombie around 3 in the morning! Great bunch of guys on there that got me started on my first turbo for my dragbike a few years ago. Do your homework and decide on your build. For my car I called Velocity and told Ken what I was after and how I wanted the up-pipe and exhaust to look. Sent him a couple pics of the motor in the car and it is a perfect fit just like I wanted it..no extra charge..(this is my second turbo from them, but I don't think it would've mattered on charges..) I thought of trying my own design on everything but the time factor just makes a quality builders kit alot easier IMO. Maybe you could get a header from Velocity or RCC or Haann and there is a great starting point to take it from there.Treadstone Performance Inc, Turbo Kits, Intercoolers, Turbo manifolds, Silicone hose These guys have some quality parts to build your own stuff, pretty good prices.
At 8psi I would go with an FMU, PowerCommander III, stock ECU.That combo is reliable and is proven over and over again as long as you don't get greedy with boost on stock internals. There are alot of different opinions on actually needing a BOV at boost levels below 10psi. I prefer the HKS BOV. Nice and loud! . For tuning, I use Innovate LM1 and AuxBox combo measuring Boost, TPS, RPM, and AFR with Logworks3. I do it all by seat of the pants recording logs and changing the PowerCommander fueling acordingly. By the time I do a couple dyno pulls, it is very close to spot on fueling. Good Luck !!!!

Jon

[standfast]

I never ran intercoolers on cars under 10psi. Most cars were actually faster without it. Less volume to compress. Those were drag cars. Your car will see more continuous use so it may not be a bad idea. Change in temp over ambient after compressed was pretty negligable at those boost levels. However, on a high compression bike motor it could be that extra little bit of insurance. You could snag a small intercooler off a Eclipse, Saab, 3000gt, RX7 for pretty cheap so...

[bdkw1]

Thanks Standfast, you just saved Me a lot of typing.

Also the beauty of running the PC is there are a lot of maps available for it. It's a lot better than starting from scratch.

On the Bronco I ran an SDS, about the most user friendly stand alone there is. On the old turbo Toyota, an Electramotive...... about the least friendly.....

As stated, wideband will eventually get the mixture sorted out. However, it will do nothing for your timing curve. This is where you will make or break the motor. And yes, the SDS system had a knock sensor, but by the time you tune out the background noise you have broken rings........

[arrowhead]

Keep up the good work boys this is the type of info I want. Everyone's experience is so helpful cause this turbo thing is a new deal for me
THANKS

[arrowhead]

OK Bots
What is wrong with this item?

eBay Motors: Vulcan / Hayabusa Turbo and Wastegate / BLOW OFF VALVE (item 150284778461 end time Aug-23-08 13:01:12 PDT)

[grant_wt]

I am currently running a Megasquirt system on my Toyota 22R. I think for somebody that spends as much time at the dunes as Arrowhead it might be a reasonable idea to go the Megasquirt and tune by auto tune and datalogging. For people that only go for weekends once in a while, you will waste to many weekends being scared to rev out your engine. Also, if you are needing to program spark, even the good Megasquirt guys say you cant program that effectively without going to a dyno.

I personally have found the autotune feature useless. Megalogviewer for megasquirt will run analysis on a datalog and correct your map as needed. The program is gold! But accelleration, timing, starting, etc, is still all by feel without a dyno.


Arrowhead, I think my dad and I met you a number of years ago in Florence. I believe my dad (Stewart Wright) had either met you before, or Brian Woods or Ken Helm gave us your number. I was only 14 or 15 at the time, so i dont remember well enough to know if it was you or not. Anyways it's good to see you on here, and next time we come down it would be good to come and check out your buggy.

Grant Wright

[standfast]

The turbo you posted is a knockoff and all the parts are made in China. The knockoff chinese BOV's and wastegates would probably be OK. The turbo is the problem. The manufacturing tolerances are off and the assembly is off. The main problem I have seen with the chinese imitation turbos is the compressor wheel nuts all seem to be standard thread instead of reverse thread. They loosen up and the wheels make love to the housing. I have seen some of them last awhile but it's hit and miss. There is a bunch of cheap asses around here that try those chinese ebay turbo's because of the price obviously. I tried one when they first hit the market because I was low on funds and desperate to get my car going. Needless to say it was a bad choice and the snail ate itself.

Reputable turbo manufacturer's are Garret, Precision, Turbonetics, Mitsubishi Heavy Ind., IHI, KKK, Holset, Schwitzer. If you are trying to stay on the cheap, look at a IHI turbo off of a stock subaru WRX. It has a internal wastegate which will save you some cash and is more than sufficient. Also, the KKK turbo's off the 1.8T Volkswagen Jetta's/Beetles/Golf's would be worth a look for the same reasons. These are pretty small turbo's that you should be able to spool very quickly. I don't see the point in putting a bigger drag bike turbo on a offroad car anyway. I would want it to act more like a blower giving more low end grunt which is what a smaller faster spooling turbo will provide. Plus it will be much cheaper and get your feet wet with turbo's at a low cost. Then you'd just need a BOV, turbo manifold/header, charge piping, filter, and misc couplers/hardware. A chinese cheap version BOV will be OK in this situation. I have one of these on my Cummins powered Ford Super Duty holding 45 lbs of boost from a 66mm turbo. eBay Motors: TYPE-S BLUE TURBO BLOW OFF VALVE + ADAPTER FLANGE PIPE (item 140257683995 end time Aug-19-08 12:19:15 PDT)

I think you could build the manifold yourself. You can build it out of Sch 10 stainless weld els. This is what alot of the import crowd does. It is a good solution to cracking tube manifolds which WILL be an issue in a offroad car with the weight of a turbo hanging off of it. The downpipe/exhaustpipe is pretty obvious and easy to build as is the charge piping to and from the intercooler if you choose to run one. A intake box to collect the air and feed it to the throttle bodies will be a small hurdle. Just copy the boxes out there on the market. Shouldn't be too bad since I am sure you can weld alum. Be sure to use mandrel bends on your exhaust and intake piping to optimize the system as best as possible.

Now when you get to the fuel system and timing modifications is where you will have to be careful and educate yourself as best as possible from the busa site to understand how to safely and properly add fuel and reduce timing to compensate for the additional air and cylinder pressure from the turbo. Also check there how to feed oil and drain oil for the turbo as I am not sure of the specifics of that either on the busa motor. Usually oil feed is just tapped in where the oil pressure sending unit is and is drained into the oil pan from a weld in bung towards the high end of the pan. But maybe they feed and and drain from other locations so look into that. Also make sure that your turbo is mounted high enough that your oil drain line has decent slope to gravity drain the oil back into the pan. If not the oil will back up and kick the turbo seals.

[busasandrail]

Very nice write-up stand fast....


I have also heard of some people using a mitsubishi EVO turbo, anybody have any info on these turbos.

I too am considering doing a turbo kit for mine and I would also like to build/assemble my own kit from some less expensive pieces.

[arrowhead]

Very interesting standfst thanks
Grant I'm sure that was me I've known those 2 since the 70's. I think I remember your dad, was he English by chance?

Keep the info coming I'm listening intently

[grant_wt]

No, not English. By decent English, but not by sound. He is 5'8" with brown hair and a mustache. I was a blond hair kid with either a squeaky voice, or a voice that squeaked. We're from Keremeos, and have played the rod scene some, but also used to come down to Florence with our VW powered buggies. I didn't count on you remembering us though.