The Best Hayabusa Turbo Combo

[Bugpac]

Originally Posted by masterfabr

Those that have not done always seem to know more than those that have.

Explain a little better master of all?

[masterfabr]

Self explanatory.No need .

[Bugpac]

Are you saying that there is no way to tune a engine with a wideband 02 without a dyno? thats the way i take it anyways...

[masterfabr]

Originally Posted by Bugpac

Are you saying that there is no way to tune a engine with a wideband 02 without a dyno? thats the way i take it anyways...

Nope ,did not say that. But you have some misperceptions that can best be answered by the boys at www.suzukihayabusa.org .. or the aftermarket suppliers of such systems since I don't have a clue as to what I speak. LOL!!!!

[Bugpac]

Originally Posted by masterfabr

Nope ,did not say that. But you have some misperceptions that can best be answered by the boys at SuzukiHayabusa.Org .. or the aftermarket suppliers of such systems since I don't have a clue as to what I speak. LOL!!!!

who said you didnt have a clue?

[masterfabr]

[standfast]

I have used several aftermarket systems with auto tune features and they leave alot to be desired. I have used Haltech, AEM, Big Stuff 3 and a few others. What it came down to for me was that they were useless and unreliable for use with a $10k plus engine. All the cars were turbo cars. The problem mainly lies within ignition tuning which is a crucial factor in a turbo car. There is little room for error in a turbo car's tune. On a high compression motor you don't get to dance with detonation. Once it bites, it's over. That lead me to doing it the manual old fashioned way. Start conservative with more than enough fuel and low timing and sneak up on the tune. Tuning a high compression turbo motor is alot like gambling. Big risks and big rewards. I always kept my stuff pretty conservative as I don't like R&D on parts that expensive. Just sharing my experiences thus far.

Now you don't need a dyno to tune with a wideband. You can always tune it out in the dunes or whatever and keep an eye on the wideband. IMO that is actually better. Most drag cars I have had an worked on were just out of control to do that on the street so dyno tuning and track datalogging were the best options. Most dyno's (ie. dynojets) are not load bearing so tuning via a non load bearing dyno is really only helpful at WOT conditions. If you are fortunate enough to have a load bearing dyno (ie Mustang dyno) or the like, then you can tune a broader range of your maps. One fact has always remained true for the stuff I have worked on is that you always need a little more tweaking even after you have left the dyno. Barrometric pressure correction is not something that gets sorted out overnight. It takes months to get your car correcting itself for all the different elevations/barro conditions that you may experience. The same goes for cold start maps etc. That stuff just takes time to get it all to work correctly. The whole idea behind having a fully programmable unit like this is to get all this stuff dialed in. If you have it all half ass tuned then you are no better off than using a stock computer with a FMU and MAP/MAF/ignition manipulator like a power commander. Being that you only want to feed it 8#s of boost I would stay with the stock computer/FMU/power commander unless you want to play with a laptop more than you drive the car.

[Bugpac]

I didn't suggest the mega squirt to cause great debate, Just to throw it out there is all, with the nega squirt sytem you can virtually inject a weed eater to a locomotive....Maybe masterfabber better move this to its own topic, so we don't piss of arrowhead, I do not know a lot about the mega squirt, another member lead me to it, and it seems pretty extraordinary for what it is intended to do...

[masterfabr]

It is a great system but not just an install it and miracles happen thing. Also not necessary for arrowheads needs. He wants cheap and an FMU/powercommander setup will get him that while being reliable.

[masterfabr]

Originally Posted by standfast

I have used several aftermarket systems with auto tune features and they leave alot to be desired. I have used Haltech, AEM, Big Stuff 3 and a few others. What it came down to for me was that they were useless and unreliable for use with a $10k plus engine. All the cars were turbo cars. The problem mainly lies within ignition tuning which is a crucial factor in a turbo car. There is little room for error in a turbo car's tune. On a high compression motor you don't get to dance with detonation. Once it bites, it's over. That lead me to doing it the manual old fashioned way. Start conservative with more than enough fuel and low timing and sneak up on the tune. Tuning a high compression turbo motor is alot like gambling. Big risks and big rewards. I always kept my stuff pretty conservative as I don't like R&D on parts that expensive. Just sharing my experiences thus far.

Now you don't need a dyno to tune with a wideband. You can always tune it out in the dunes or whatever and keep an eye on the wideband. IMO that is actually better. Most drag cars I have had an worked on were just out of control to do that on the street so dyno tuning and track datalogging were the best options. Most dyno's (ie. dynojets) are not load bearing so tuning via a non load bearing dyno is really only helpful at WOT conditions. If you are fortunate enough to have a load bearing dyno (ie Mustang dyno) or the like, then you can tune a broader range of your maps. One fact has always remained true for the stuff I have worked on is that you always need a little more tweaking even after you have left the dyno. Barrometric pressure correction is not something that gets sorted out overnight. It takes months to get your car correcting itself for all the different elevations/barro conditions that you may experience. The same goes for cold start maps etc. That stuff just takes time to get it all to work correctly. The whole idea behind having a fully programmable unit like this is to get all this stuff dialed in. If you have it all half ass tuned then you are no better off than using a stock computer with a FMU and MAP/MAF/ignition manipulator like a power commander. Being that you only want to feed it 8#s of boost I would stay with the stock computer/FMU/power commander unless you want to play with a laptop more than you drive the car.

I missed this post.I agree completely.