Protodie GSXR 1000 new air box

[ProtoDie]

Thanks guys,
I am going to add a front support / hold down yet.
I always wired , or zip tied my throttle bodies on to the motor.
A front support would assist that in keeping the throttle bodies on in extreme rough driving.

Fab,
Yes, I had seen you also went to a different / cheaper air filter set up with your air box.
Very nice work also. I like that it is protected down behind the fire wall

[yoshi]

dry filter is definitely the way to go, I love my UMP setup for cleanliness and how long I can go between cleanings.

My only concern with your design is a lot of motor heat will make it into that opening due to the location. I had a throttle cable mounted about 2" above the spark plugs one time(not touching the motor), and the heat was so great it melted the inner Teflon liner and seized the throttle cable.....

[ProtoDie]

Wow, your motor did get hot,, we have never melted any cables there.

I am not too concerned with the heat. The stock GSXR air box sits right down on the top of the motor.
This air box has 3" of open space between the motor and the bottom of the Air box.
This open area will also let the motor heat radiate out better than the stock air box IMO

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by ProtoDie

Wow, your motor did get hot,, we have never melted any cables there.

I am not too concerned with the heat. The stock GSXR air box sits right down on the top of the motor.
This air box has 3" of open space between the motor and the bottom of the Air box.
This open area will also let the motor heat radiate out better than the stock air box IMO

The stock box does sit close to the motor, but the actual air intake tubes for the box extends to the front of the bike, so none of the motor heat is able to get into the airbox. Your inlets are aimed straight down at the motor, so the heat from the motor is rising straight up into the intake, and 3" is really close considering the heat is going straight for that spot, and the air is hitting the motor and ramming straight up as it hits the wall that connects the box to the motor. Also, a stock box is plastic, yours is aluminum, which means it's gonna act like a big heat sink, so your really gonna want as much outside air flow as you can get that hasn't been heated by the motor.


You might wanna stick a sensor in the box so you can see what the temp gets up to when the motor warms up so you can see if it's gonna be an issue. The normal airbox will see close to the same temp as the outside air, so if your noticing a big difference in the box vs outside temp, you might wanna consider making some mods somehow.


I'm not trying to knock your design, It looks really good and i'm sure you've spent a lot of time on it, so don't take what i'm saying the wrong way, just pointing out some potential problems since I know those motors put off some serious heat. My back gets warm in my rail through my seats and the fire wall, there's not as much airflow around the motor as we'd like since the car blocks most of it, so a lot of heat stays around the motor...

[ProtoDie]

I do understand what you are saying about the heat rising.
When the buggy is moving, the warm air radiating straight up will be re-directed by air flow created from driving

I do believe this will still see more fresh air than the stock box.
IMO The 3 inches of free air clearance is a lot.

Like you said, the fire wall blocks off direct air flow.

The header & motor heat are directed up the fire wall right to the stock air box intakes at the front of the motor.
So with this heat and the stock air box right on top of the motor, the stock box see's more heat.

I just want to point out that we have never had any heat issues with the stock airbox either.
The stock air box is still going to be the cheapest & easiest to use.
I just do not like the 11 screws to check my filter.

Heat will be pretty easy to check even without adding an internal sensor.
With the aluminum, I should be able to touch the intake area of the filter setup, to see if it is getting warm.

Eventually I want to get one of those infrared temp guns.

One of those would be nice for checking chain heat, motor heat,,,,well any heat

I do appreciate the input on this & any projects.

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by ProtoDie

I do understand what you are saying about the heat rising.
When the buggy is moving, the warm air radiating straight up will be re-directed by air flow created from driving

I do believe this will still see more fresh air than the stock box.
IMO The 3 inches of free air clearance is a lot.

Like you said, the fire wall blocks off direct air flow.

The header & motor heat are directed up the fire wall right to the stock air box intakes at the front of the motor.
So with this heat and the stock air box right on top of the motor, the stock box see's more heat.

I just want to point out that we have never had any heat issues with the stock airbox either.
The stock air box is still going to be the cheapest & easiest to use.
I just do not like the 11 screws to check my filter.

Heat will be pretty easy to check even without adding an internal sensor.
With the aluminum, I should be able to touch the intake area of the filter setup, to see if it is getting warm.

Eventually I want to get one of those infrared temp guns.

One of those would be nice for checking chain heat, motor heat,,,,well any heat

I do appreciate the input on this & any projects.

No problem, sounds like your gonna be able to check it easy enough to see if it's gonna be an issue.


Been wanting a laser heat gun myself, I need to go pick one up...

[nofearmxer]

Looks nice, and less work to check the air filter...4 bolts.... KTM..no tools..less work...big plus.

i thought you said you had 3 main tubes running to the box? Actual tubes?

If or if not not why not run "forced induction-type" tubes from the box up to fresh air by the radiator or somewhere with expanded metal for rocks and a foam pre filter, make a cool little fiberglass or sheetmeetal whatever cover/scoop, then run your tubes down to the air box....or is this too much and been proved not to work?

[ProtoDie]

Thanks,

The 3 tubes, are just breather tubes off the GSXR1000.

No, there is nothing wrong with what you are saying with feeder tubes,,,

But this design is intended to be self contained, and motor specific, and not having to bolt on other components to the chassis itself.
Trying to keep a clean look to it.

If air feed tubes were wanted,,,it would be real easy to add.

Just a bolt on housing to the underside intake,,,then run the air feed tubes to where you want them.

[THE KANDY SHOP]

hey protodie how much for on of those with the kandy shop in it, i have the same motor.

[ProtoDie]

Welcome to MBN.

Probably about $400 with your custom logo in it.
Depending on how elaborate your Kandy Shop logo is to create in cad / CNC.
If interested, send me a logo pic for referance and I can confirm.

I can build one with a GSXR 1000 logo in for $350

Boots & sensor would come out of your stock air box, and fit into this.