porting and polishing.

[ruthlessxbeastx]

well now that was the dummy way to do it :]
i just got back from coos bay so the funds are low but i will go buy some parts soon!
its just odd to me it only does it when the motor heats up.

[nutz4sand]

It only does what when the motor heats up? Stays running on afterward?? (dieseling)

Thats normal for dieseling as when its cold there is nothing hot enough to ignite the mixture.

Once its hot the thing thats doing/causing the dieseling is glowing so hot once the plug stops igniting the fuel the hot spot takes over.

This CAN cause two flame fronts to meet inside the engine and damage the piston. Will sound like detonation. You can usually hear it if its happening but not always if the pipe is LOUD.

Its also many times (not always) caused by leaking seals that are making the motor lean out and run hotter than normal. Jetting itself can cause it as well as a wrong plug (rare but happens) and carbon buildup is also a common cause of dieseling. A little speck of hot carbon can ignite the fuel easy.

The pressure tests will tell you if the bottom end is good. If not it needs to be gone through. The sooner its done the cheaper as the less damage will be done.

[ruthlessxbeastx]

alright ill have to go ahead and just buy the tolls and gauges and do some tests
:]
thanks i know im going to need help right before and during all the "testing" but hopefully its something easy.
also once i start my odyssey it jerks and jolts. like the belt is engaging. the parking brake doesnt work but it shouldnt be that jumpy. anything to fix that or any hints??

[nutz4sand]

As its jerking and jolting is the clutches hitting the belt and releasing?
Also while it does this is the motor surging up and down some with RPMS?

This can be (not for sure is) a sign of a carb thats to rich and a leaking seal letting air in.

It could be the carb is simply set to high of an idle too. (hope for this one over the other!)

The carb could be in need of a cleaning and adjustment too.

[ruthlessxbeastx]

it surges a lil with the rpms.
and i just had the carb rebuilt, so maybe an airleak, i havent looked at the belt so ill have to take a look.
i just dont think that the jolting is natural, since i have to hold it with a rock or someone hold the break so i can start it and get in.

[nutz4sand]

Just cause the carb was just rebuilt does not mean its right.

I have accidently assembled a carb wrong that I had reassembled correctly many times. All it takes is not knowing or a carelss not paying of attention and the carb may be wrong. BTDT.

[ruthlessxbeastx]

so just the carb acting up can cause the jerking?

[nutz4sand]

Its more than likely a leak somewhere. But yes a messed up carb will do all sort of wierd things.

One thing thats kinda easy to try is to spray carb cleaner around the carbs rubber boot and then the base of the cylinder and then by the seal by the clutch (you cannot get to the seal behind the flywheel to easy). If the motor changes its running for a quick bit while spraying. YOU GOT A LEAK. especially if you can duplicate the change in running by starting and stopping spraying.

When its jerking it could be due to the idle too high and the clutches JUST start to contact the belt and make it jerk but this is usually a slow gradual grab.

Unless the clutch needs to be cleaned. A dirty clutch will not work smooth.
If the idles way to high or its trying to rev high due to a improper carb setting or a intake leak it revs up and a dirty clutch will snap in then with no real power the motor dies in RPMS and the clutch disenguages. With no load the motors tries to rev again and it all starts over.

I have seen this above many times. It means its time for a major going through everything IF thats whats happening. Doing it now is cheap and if compression is good and the cylinder looks fine you might only need fresh rings and maybe not even that. If you keep running it with a intake leak and the price will double and triple in a hurry. IF its an intake or seal leak.

One thing to note is IF the selas on the crank are determined to be leaking TRIPLE check or better yet just replace the crank bearings! Often a little pakly in a bearing will allow the crankshaft to float back and forth with a loose ebaring and the seal CANNOT hold a seal then. Even a new seal will not. The crank bearings are not to much and ONE good rebuild now will make a machine last a long time and not give you trouble. Try a shortcut and miss a bad part and it will plauge you till you go back in to fix it!

If you take the belt off does it idle fine? At this point is the drive clutch trying to move inwards to grab the belt?

[ruthlessxbeastx]

well i want to just try to pull the motor and do a leakdown test. that is what we were talking about earlier correct? and on ebay they sell kitss which i think would be about the same price as just getting parts!? correct me if im wrong haha but is the motor hard to pull cause i think if the motor is out it would be a lot easier to work on! also then i can clean the clutch and all that and really see the inner workings! also would a good investment before doing this be a repair manual?

[nutz4sand]

I have seen repair manuals that were worth gold and others that were not fit to burn. Have to look at one beofre you get it to know if its worth it. I know thats not always easy.

You can test the motor in the machine. If your gonna pull it out anyways might as well go thru it. If nothing else do a compression test while its bolted in the machine. Hard to do that while its out.