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#42 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: sparks, NV
Posts: 212
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alright so ill go look for the vaccum gauge do u have a pic or like a link on what it looks like so i know what im buying instead of getting ripped off?
cause i was thinking about checking craigslist first! and i was going through the stuff that was with the odyssey and found plugs for the intake and exaust manifolds!!
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87 tecate 4 83 hoda odyssey fl250 |
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#43 (permalink) |
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a cheap vacuum/pressure guage will be 10 bucks a good one will be 45 plus. Buy what you feel you like in the quality of the tool. These guages are for checking manifold vacum on cars as well as fuel pump pressure on older carbed models.
A mityvac hand held pump will be from 20 bucks to 45 bucks. The guage on them is on the VAC side and only reads in that. Mine I can pop the little cover off the exhaust of the vac and it will pump up pressure to 6 PSI for a POSITIVE crank case test but the guage on it does NO good for that.
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Sand! The only gold I need! NEVER trust anyone wearing a Tie... |
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#44 (permalink) |
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FUEL PUMP & VACUUM GAUGE TESTER ~ PRESSURE TEST AUTO:eBay Motors (item 330368836609 end time Oct-22-09 17:16:45 PDT)
Mityvac 7000 Vacuum / Brake Bleed Bleeder Pump Kit NEW:eBay Motors (item 190341922984 end time Oct-21-09 17:00:19 PDT) My pump is like that but my gugae is a tad different. There are a few different kinds but as long as it does the job its all good. You can spend more or less.
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Sand! The only gold I need! NEVER trust anyone wearing a Tie... |
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#45 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: sparks, NV
Posts: 212
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so the first gauge is for going in the spark plug to see what my compression is? and the second one is for checking if i can hold pressure?
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87 tecate 4 83 hoda odyssey fl250 |
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#46 (permalink) |
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Nope. The first guage is both a vacuum and a low pressure guage in one. It can test manifold vacuum or low fuel pump pressure. You NEED it because most vacuum pumps do not have a pressure guage for positive pressure.
The second item IS a vacuum pump itself with a vacuum guage on it. It will work for the negative pressure test all by itself. Once you go to do the positive test the guage on it is "out of the loop" (on the other end of the pump during this operation IF you use this pump to do the positive pressure test) and the guage on this mityvac would not read positive pressure anyways. You may be able to find a pump that will do both pressures AND have a guage built into it to rear POS and NEG but it will likely cost far far more than the two items separately. Aside from those items above and the plugs for the carb manifold and the exhaust port you need some tube to plumb the lines and some "T"s to allow you to add the guage. You need good ones so they do not leak and throw off you readings.
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Sand! The only gold I need! NEVER trust anyone wearing a Tie... |
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#47 (permalink) |
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The first one looks similiar to a compression guage for testing piston compression but its not. Its max pressure is maybe ten pounds or so.
You need a separate guage for that too.
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Sand! The only gold I need! NEVER trust anyone wearing a Tie... |
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#48 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 37
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You want to talk old school 250's we ran a 250 modified class in Oz.
The 3 basic things we did for power increase were, DG power pipe, 38mm Flatslide carb off an old Suzuki 250, and had the head dome reshapped. If you want a different approach get the top end of an old Cr250 78 model i think and it bolts straight on. Make sure you get the exhaust and carb as well. With the stock Honda 250 the cylinder to crank case are way out of alignment. You can get a lot out of it by just match porting all the peices to remove any obstructions. But you will need to strip down the motor for this one. But you can also match port the inlet and exhaust outlets as well. Add another breather hose to your stock airfilter box also. Good Luck, Nick |
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#50 (permalink) |
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?? Pic of the pipe with the guage on it? WTHeck are you talking about?
You need to find someone local to show you how to do this it sounds like. It will be a lot easier. You remove the pipe and set it aside. Same for the carb. Then seal those holes with the parts you have or bought at the hardware store. Then you need to be able to add or subtract pressure from the engines guts through a vacuum port and if the motor has none then through the spark plug hole which will require more adaptors to do. You need the tubing to connect the guage for the pressure you are reading too. Note: If you ever try this on say a twin cylinder sled motor the crankcase port is ONLY good for testing the cylinder its under.
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Sand! The only gold I need! NEVER trust anyone wearing a Tie... |
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