Check Out My Frame Design

[masterfabr]

Originally Posted by yoshi

dead tubes..........

With all those arrows the whole chassis is dead now!

[MASTERCNC]

the ones in the door area are dead? I put those there so this thing doesn't fold on itself. its like a trus in a steel building. yoshi you even have them in your design. i can remove the ones in upper. the one in the front i understand. The one in the back i understand why you think that but i was hopeing to support the roof/rearend/shock mount point.

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by MASTERCNC

the ones in the door area are dead? I put those there so this thing doesn't fold on itself. its like a trus in a steel building. yoshi you even have them in your design. i can remove the ones in upper. the one in the front i understand. The one in the back i understand why you think that but i was hopeing to support the roof/rearend/shock mount point.

I don't think you understand what a dead tube is, it's when the tube meets in the middle of a tube and there is no tubes connecting to it. In other words, you want your tubes to meet at intersections with other tubes....

[yoshi]

for instance, in the rear, you have 2 dead tubes, but if you moved the top tube back and over so it was directly above the tube coming up from the bottom, they would intersect and no longer be dead tubes....

[wildcatkit52]

It does look really cluttered... Looks like you could simplify it a little. Just because somebody else used 240' feet of tube in a design doesn't mean you have to try to get close to that...

You should only worry about your design being sound. Not trying to find another place to put more tube.

The stuff they are hinting about for suspension... I would think hard about listening. You might notice who they are and what they have built.

If you are gonna build your buggy as you get different parts then you will have to make a lot of compromises. Those will add up to issues with handling and other things when you could be riding it around having fun!

If you get those parts, THEN lay it out with them included in the design you will be better off.

What you could do is do the frame leaving those areas undone until you get those items. Then work back to the frame from them.

They are telling you so you won't have to make that mistake yourself, then try to figure out how to fix stuff once you get to the point when you should be done!

Oh, who the hell am I to tell you what to do???

Keep working on it and I will and see what happens!!!

[MASTERCNC]

i tryed not to make 4 tubes intersect if possible when designing. i didn't want to clutter it in any one area. spread it out best as possible. makes it alot easier on the bench. In the rear i did that because its out of the way of the shock.

[MASTERCNC]

the top one is connected right above the shock mount point. if anything i would get rid of that curved tube and shoot it strait to the other side. then connect the lower tube to that corner.

[K-fab]

Start with your wheels and tires. Figure out the offset of the rims, then work from there. King Pin Angle needs to be set next so that you have a scrub radius of approx .5" - .75" The KPI/scrub radius relationship will change according to the tire diam and/or rim diam.

Next you work on the spindles, getting the distance between the upper and lower a-arm mounts on them figured out. Try to keep the lower mount as close to the axle as possible - gives more ground clearance.

From there you work inwards towards the chassis, figuring out the upper an lower a-arm mounts on the chassis, making sure the geometry of the suspension does what you want it to do: chamber change, caster change.

Next you figure out shock mounting. Motion ratio, lower mounting position, upper shock mounting position (do not lay it over - you want as close to 90 degrees between the lower a-arm and the shock at full compression for the best shock performance)

Once you get the eight mounting points for the suspension and the four shock mounting points figured out, build the chassis to those points.

Then you get to go in and work out things like bump steer, where the rack goes and such.

Your work looks very good - but it's also extremely busy. There's nothing "wrong" with it, but it could easily be simplified.

You can probably remove about half of the triangulation bars and unclutter the chassis. As it sits on your CAD system, it's definitely overkill. The dual level side bars could be removed quite easily.

Also, don't forget, the shorter tubes are harder to fit into a build. There's a lot of tubing in there that would be very hard to fit in an actual build.

Not knocking what you've done at all, just making suggestions from the point of view of "been there, done that."

[jp350]

Thanks for saving me the time yoshi.

If landing several tubes at an intersecting point is "clutter", then I'm in love with clutter.

[yoshi]

why don't you try something like this for the sides and save yourself a ton of work and weight..