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Old 08-26-2008, 01:24 AM   #11 (permalink)

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Default Re: Camber

Ok cool that clears things up. I did manage to come up with something that gains 4-5° negative camber at full bump and gains 2° at full droop, and it was like you said. I kind of squeezed the arm mounts an inch closer at the frame, and that did the trick.

Last edited by anasasisxenophontis; 08-26-2008 at 01:39 AM.
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:42 AM   #12 (permalink)

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Default Re: Camber

BDK, where should the castor curve lay? Castor usually doesn't change if your mounts for the a arms are parallel.
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Old 08-26-2008, 04:48 PM   #13 (permalink)

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Default Re: Camber

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Originally Posted by plkracer View Post
BDK, where should the castor curve lay? Castor usually doesn't change if your mounts for the a arms are parallel.

The mounts on stock cars are not parallel. The top arm is angled to the bottom arm (viewed from the side) to give more castor in compression=anti-dive. This has serious limitations when you get into higher travel numbers. When fully drooped, you can wind up with positive castor and twitchy steering. Also under hard braking with a lot of chassis pitch you will have reduced castor.
F
If you take the upper arm mounts and make them look like this / \ (Viewed from the top) you can get gain in bump and droop. Usually a mixture of the 2 styles will get the desired results. Cars with the front arms raked will need more than cars with the arms parallel to the ground.
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:46 AM   #14 (permalink)

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Default Re: Camber

Ok, I see what you are saying. Is a change is caster needed? With my older j arm design, I gained 2 degrees in both bump and droop from ride height.
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Old 08-28-2008, 05:37 AM   #15 (permalink)

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Default Re: Camber

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Is a change is caster needed?
I like it, some people are totally against it.
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