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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Belgium
Posts: 6
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Hello, *
* I'm new here, but I think I read everything on this forum. * I always like to make, build and design things and most of all I like to ride fast. Getting the thrill of speed. And off-road you definitely can have the most fun. * So with lots of the advice here on the forum in mind I designed a frame. * It's going to be used here in Belgium, so no sand Dunes, we have a few but there all protected. I gonna use it on dirt, grass and normal roads. * I don't figured out the engine part yet, because I'm doing my final year for my master diploma at college and I don't have the money to buy and realy build my rigg. Any comments to improve my design are welcome. I did the 3D in modo202 a 3D modeler. I first draw it on paper and than i did a quick job building it in 3D, I didn't had enough patience to align the tubes of the frame, please don't comment that, I know that some tubes don't fit right. ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Vendor
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,401
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Welcome to the forum!
That's a good start, though it looks like you've been to the same bin where Yoshi gets all his tube from. * It also looks like you're using 2.5" tube...what size tube are you planning on using? I presume there'll be a bend or two in there somewhere too when you've finished.What rear suspension are you planning on? You haven't left enough space for trailing arms, and I don't see how you are going to mount A-arms to the chassis. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Belgium
Posts: 6
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Thanks for the comment Rorty,
I can tell that I like the designs of Yoshi's Sand Rails. And yes it looks like a lot of tubes. *But I want to build something very rigid and durable and I thing that this frame will be rigid and durable. And I didn't thought about the size of the tubes when I started with the 3D so they are more like 1,7". * *But I think I gonna use 1 1/4" tubes. Have to redo the 3D * . |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Welcome to the site!
Good start and that upper bend will disturb Yoshi greatly! * To mount those rear arms the frame will need to be wider so you can make two mounting pivots behind the seat on each side of the frame. Looking forward to more postings! |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Welcome to the site,
Belgium, Huh?... your english is better than some people that I know... You build looks like your heading in the right direction... I wish you lots of luck and any help we can offer...
__________________
EVIL 6's LOOSE CANNON |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Your second design looks very familiar to me. *Nice job though.
As Rorty said in his original post, you still don't have room for trailing arms. * The only thin that you could possibly do with that design is a four/five link setup. *For trailing arms, you're going to need to get those rear lower frame rails narrowed up to where they are parallel and only about 5-10" apart that way you have somewhere to moun the two points of each trailing arm on the lower cross bar just behind your seat. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Belgium
Posts: 6
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Thanks Sandfast en Rorty, you're right about the room for my trailing arms. I thought it could work with the tubes like that. When I started to model it in my 3D prog I saw that it was impossible.
I moved the rear lower frame more to the inside. Like standfast suggested ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: OC
Posts: 315
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Ok now you are going to have to build the rear tubing flat and inline with the bottom of the chassis...there is no way to drive the wheels. *Remember you will need room for the motor, headers, whatever drive setup you end up with weather its a sprocket or a gear box, radiator, gas tank, battery etc... *The car looks good, the trailing arms look really familiar though.
You definately have enough bracing, I'm just trying to figure out how you get the motor in your car....and I thought mine was a tight fit. *[smilie=banghead.gif] |
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