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#11 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 20
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Couldn't tell you what deal I may or may not get on my tubes. I need constructive criticism. If you think there is alot of tubing, tell me why and what I can do about it, then I can take it into account.
Where I drive isn't like the desert planes you have in the USA. Where I live theres just trees everywhere you leave the track, if theres not trees, theres drop offs with trees at the bottom. Trying to look at a bit of intrusion safety. Thats the reason why its triangulated every which way. On the other hand....I dont want to stray too far from what I set out to do to begin with. It has to be reasonably light wieght to match it with the bigger cars with more powerful engines at short course races. But safety first. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Metamora, Michigan
Posts: 417
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I was going to say that if you are using heims (at the spindles) in double shear, then you will want these heims to angle back somewhere around 2 degrees.
If you plan to incorporate Ackerman this will be necessary to get max steering angle out of the heims. Right now you have the arms angled forward on the ends. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 20
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Your saying to make the Hiems closer to 90* to the centre line of the car? Makes sense I spose. What if I chose ball joints? I just thought hiems would be more practical and easier to adjust if need be.
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Metamora, Michigan
Posts: 417
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Yes, close to 90 but angled back a few degrees.
For example: A 3/4 heim with 1/2" bore high misalignment spacer will only give you around 60 degrees total angle to work with. You don't want to max out the heim in the spacer, so you really get maybe 58 degrees. Your rack's travel needs to be the stop. Not the heim hitting the spacer. Lets say to get true Ackerman you needed to turn your outside tire 25 and your inside 33 (a total of 58) Half of the difference between these two angles is the approx. ammount you need to angle the heims back. I angle mine back 1/2 degree less than half, because I'll then adjust the front with a little toe in. With the ball joint you get more steering angle, but may be limited on the travel. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 20
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I cant get my head to work on this deal of tying the front end together. What do you all think of this? Is it too much? I cant figure out how to get what I want and keep it minimal. Thanks for any suggestions.
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#18 (permalink) |
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This is just something quick,to give you some ideas.
Oh,and add brackets to the front bottom and top of bends to add bumper. Make bends right where your shock upper mount needs to be located. Yeah, thats clear? Ok,added color.Shocks pink bumper blue bumper mounts yellow
__________________
People who think they know everything,are especially annoying to those of us who do. Last edited by Bullnerd; 10-10-2009 at 11:51 AM. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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No you don't, it's a real time waster LOL.......
But what you drew up is about what I would go with. The only change I would make is the top X brace going to the upper dash bar. Why do you need 2 dash bars? ditch one or the other................. |
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