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#12 (permalink) |
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Not necessarily. Either will work bt you need to make the frame wide enough behind the seat to take the semi/trailing arms.
The A-arms present other issues with upper moun location. On my first car I have a J arm upper mount and others find room for dual pivot mounts. A-arms have more adjustability for camber and toe. There are many consderations. Take your time to study now. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
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The first pic I got from Alan and its a complete g-maxx with a 5 link rear.
The next three I got from montanaminirail from his build which he has put on hold and built one of rorty's buggies. It shows with little mods and added material you can go with trailing arms. His trailing arms have issues that where pointed out in his build thread, this just shows it can be done. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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These are both Desert Karts built by a guy in Oregon.
The green one was done like the manual calls for. But they are only so strong. He bent a few of them. Soooo. The red one was his own way to build them. Simpler to make and he said he never bent one like on the red one. He used 3/4 x 1-1/2 .095 rec tube. I posted these not so much to pimp Desert Karts but to show a couple trailing arm setups that can work at the back of a single seat buggy fairly well. You could do the same thing to the tail end of Girard frame once you added a tube with the right angles for your setup.
__________________
Unless you have lost a finger for some reason you do not have a middle finger. Think about it. Sand! The only gold I need! Last edited by nutz4sand; 07-03-2009 at 12:54 AM. Reason: spullin |
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#15 (permalink) |
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After thought. He used a Comet diff in these above and they held up surprisingly well. But if you got the center CV's closer with a spool more travel would be geat if a diff was not your thing. (Side not If you want a diff like that use a VW diff.) LOTS cheaper! Very tough!
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Unless you have lost a finger for some reason you do not have a middle finger. Think about it. Sand! The only gold I need! |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: The bottom of utah.
Posts: 36
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Sweat thanks for the pics,that help a lot!!!
I would like to make this one all hand controls,I just cant find a motor... what would be a good motor for the garard frame and the all hand control's? I would like to get a 600+,2-stroke snowmobile or a 600+ street bike,i just cant figure out a good way to shift. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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When you say all hand controls I picture a sled setup.
Are you talking about wide enough and using handle bars instead of a steering wheel? Hard to have ALL hand controls on a steering wheel. A 600cc sled is dang cheap to find and pretty easy usually (Where do you live??) and the biggest pain with the sled motor is getting the pipes to fit or remamking pipes to fit (Or simply make it big enough for the stock pipes. Great if you only run in sand and space is not such a big deal)
__________________
Unless you have lost a finger for some reason you do not have a middle finger. Think about it. Sand! The only gold I need! |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: The bottom of utah.
Posts: 36
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Ummm....
I think I am going to make something similar to a Honda pilot steering setup,out of the handle bares and other misc pipe. I would like to use a sled motor but kinda hard to find in utah,but my dad thinks he knows ware a Honda Sabre V45 is,I think that might be the better motor for power but then it makes it that much harder to for th hand controls,the hard part is how do I shift??? |
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#19 (permalink) |
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If you need all hand controls then CVT for sure. Don't complicate things. Check our the Redline on here with hand controls. Xmotorcr has done some really great things with his Redline and can help you with your project by providing tried and true ideas.
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