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Warning: Invalid argument supplied for foreach() in [path]/includes/class_postbit_alt.php(468) : eval()'d code on line 26 MiniBuggy.Net: The Ultimate Off-Road Buggy Community - Driveline
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum
Mini-buggy transmission, differentials, Forward Neutral Reverse (FNR) and gearing discussions.enFri, 20 Nov 2009 23:57:49 GMTvBulletin60http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/images/lustrous/misc/rss.jpgMiniBuggy.Net: The Ultimate Off-Road Buggy Community - Driveline
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum
Concept for a Hayabusa FNR
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/12003-concept-hayabusa-fnr.html
Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:58:54 GMTI have been looking at ways to design a gearbox that is completely gear driven that is specific to the Hayabusa since it is the standard motor used...I have been looking at ways to design a gearbox that is completely gear driven that is specific to the Hayabusa since it is the standard motor used in our buggies and offers the most aftermarket support. This is kind of my ideal setup for an FNR. Where it couples to the motor would be a cush drive unit. This gearbox itself would mount to the engine itself creating one modular unit. The gearbox itself would mount the engine and itself in 3 places making gearbox to engine alignment a non issue. It would also significantly shorten and simplify the entire drivetrain portion. CV output flanges would be kept as narrow and low as possible to maximize travel possibilities. Input shaft would go clear through the box to provide a point of attachment for a alternator setup. Total drivetrain length would be cut down to about 31 inches. Would allow for much shorter trailing arms than we normally run. I am looking for any ideas or insight on this setup. These 3D images are just conceptual and by no means a final product. Just here to convey the idea.
]]>Drivelinestandfasthttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/12003-concept-hayabusa-fnr.html930 Drive Line for Dummies
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11990-930-drive-line-dummies.html
Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:08:21 GMTImage: http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/members/justooln2-albums-my-first-project-picture382-dscn3829.jpg
930 Drive line for dummies.!
This is my...
930 Drive line for dummies.!
This is my first build. I have a rolling chassis that I got off ebay. Its almost exactly what I had planned to build. A little chop here and re-weld there and I’m good to go. Ive got a few 93 Yamaha FZR 600cc and the mini rail im working on has a 98% complete 2002 Honda F4i. I need the fuel pump, radiator and a few other minor things.
The front end is Done. The rear has Trailing arms, Vw hubs and 930 CV axles. No actual center bearing carrier or drive sprocket.
I understand how the 930 goes together to make an IDS setup. Ive got the outer hubs, the CVs the CVaxle shafts and the inner CVs.
So now im wondering, Where exactly to weld the imaginary center bearing carrier? If its welded in the wrong place, I will bind my CVs and would need plunge axles. So with some math I can figure that part out, I think. The correct arch ect ect. , Gooose flab bla..
What is the 930 Stub shaft used for? Is that the outer part where the wheel hub and wheel bearing attach?
Where are the Center splined shaft coming from? Are they custom machined? Is there an off the shelf shaft?
Next is the two center CV flanges that attach to the splined shaft. As I understand it, if my splined shaft is not the correct length, with fairly close tolerances it will cause compression or stretch in my rear trailing arm geometry. So if I ask Proto or Yoshi to build me one, will they need to know flange to flange OAL, or do they just say hey, its an 8” shaft deal with it?
Has anyone used a 930 Stub for the center shaft? Hell its already got one 930 flange on it. Add to bearings, bearing cases and another 930 flange your good to go.? Right?
Ive emailed Yoshi already, and DesertKarts too, haven’t heard anything back as of yet.
I’m probably going to buy from ProtoDie because he seems to have the best bang for my buck.
Anyhow. Thanks for your help and im looking to being an actual mini rail owner.. PS anyone in the Central Illinois area, let me know. Thanks Don aka justooln2
]]>Drivelinejustooln2http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11990-930-drive-line-dummies.htmlDeep Ratio Electric Reverse (again)
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11989-deep-ratio-electric-reverse-again.html
Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:53:11 GMTI have searched quite a bit about electric reverses here and on other forums. I am wondering how well they would work with a steeper gear ratio.
I...I have searched quite a bit about electric reverses here and on other forums. I am wondering how well they would work with a steeper gear ratio.
I am thinking of mounting them in front of a transfer case (say 2:1 in low) and rear diff (3.7:1), so including the ring gear, the overall ratio will be in the ~20-30:1 range. I am not concerned about speed in this configuration, but would like the ability to back up on an incline.
I still don't really think this will be enough to pull a 1,200lb buggy back up a hill, does anyone have any experience to say otherwise?
Thanks in advance
]]>DrivelineLittle Bandithttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11989-deep-ratio-electric-reverse-again.htmlHonda Rear End Yamaha Front End
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11964-honda-rear-end-yamaha-front-end.html
Thu, 12 Nov 2009 20:12:40 GMTI am working on building a 4x4 mini buggy and I have a 1986 Fourtrax 350 4x4 that I want to use for the engine and other parts, possibly the rear...I am working on building a 4x4 mini buggy and I have a 1986 Fourtrax 350 4x4 that I want to use for the engine and other parts, possibly the rear drive train. The Front end on the honda is a strait axle and I do not want to use it. I may be able to get my hands on a 1998 Yamaha Grizzly 600 front drive train. What are the chances that the Yamaha front differential and the Honda rear differential have the same gear ration, and if they are bit different can it still work?????
]]>Drivelinetdcanadahttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11964-honda-rear-end-yamaha-front-end.htmlRzeppa CV
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11952-rzeppa-cv.html
Wed, 11 Nov 2009 08:23:41 GMTI ran accross this CV that offers 40* of articulation. Does anybody know anything about it? I know it was used in the newer Jeeps...something like...I ran accross this CV that offers 40* of articulation. Does anybody know anything about it? I know it was used in the newer Jeeps...something like whats on this Axle: review Fidanza . If those CVs can handle up to and well over 40*, what would stop a person from using a halfshaft out of an elcipse or something like that on the that web site for a buggy and just modify the flanges or if you have the equipment just make whatever you need so they will bolt up?
]]>Drivelinenofearmxerhttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11952-rzeppa-cv.htmlAnyone reconise this FNR Chain Drive
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11939-anyone-reconise-fnr-chain-drive.html
Mon, 09 Nov 2009 16:55:37 GMTI just bought this off e-bay but the seller has only a small amount of information
on it, only that it is a muffet chain drive and he says it can...I just bought this off e-bay but the seller has only a small amount of information
on it, only that it is a muffet chain drive and he says it can handle up to 250bhp ??????
I bought it anyway cause of the price (might come in USefull for something)
Any help or information would be appriciated.
]]>Drivelinestuartbulgariahttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11939-anyone-reconise-fnr-chain-drive.htmlHow to choose a 930 CV joint
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11924-how-choose-930-cv-joint.html
Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:49:13 GMTI've begun looking for 930 CV's and see there is a large range of prices and options.
I'm sure there are more options, but these are what I have seen.
I was wondering if people would like to share what they are using, what type of success they have had with them, and where they purchased.
Some other questions:
Is there a supplier selling knock offs that should be avoided?
Is there a miminum feature set that should be used for a buggy of given size and horsepower (say 1000#s and 180 Hp)?
Are all boots created equal or is there something that stands out?
What is your preferred grease?
Anything that I have missed?
I was thinking that this could be a thread to collect and summarize all the knowledge this user base has on CV's.
]]>Drivelinedunerockethttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11924-how-choose-930-cv-joint.htmlMotorcycle engine drive shaft spline???
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11918-motorcycle-engine-drive-shaft-spline.html
Fri, 06 Nov 2009 02:55:08 GMTHi I got a quick question for all the gurus on here. I am building a buggy and I am going to have to run a chain drive forward from the motor, so I...Hi I got a quick question for all the gurus on here. I am building a buggy and I am going to have to run a chain drive forward from the motor, so I need to make some sort of a adaptor that I can attach to the drive shaft to allow it to step out past the case of the motor. My question is are motorcycle shaft splines all the same, and if are they metric splined or is there just a given standard. Hopefully someone will know something.
]]>Drivelinerazorbackhttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11918-motorcycle-engine-drive-shaft-spline.htmlchain and sprockets
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11911-chain-sprockets.html
Thu, 05 Nov 2009 02:14:01 GMTI'm building a mini with an RX-1 motor. I need a front sprocket and rear one. The jackshaft is 1" with a keyway and I can fab the sprocket adapter. The rear diff is from Jodi at ProtoDie and has a 6 on 5 1/4" bolt pattern. I'm wanting to use a gear ratio of at least 5:1. With the 26" paddle tires and a 12tooth front and a rear 70 gives me a 5.83:1 plus the 1.19:1 reduction on the engine makes for a 6.93:1 and the torque converter at 1:1 when shifted out gives a speed of 110 mph @10,000rpm.
I don't think I need any more speed at Silver Lake on the dunes.
I need to know where to get sprockets?
Thanks guys.
Aleck
]]>Drivelinehookedonsandhttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11911-chain-sprockets.htmlAnyone familiar with Gambit Power by FPD axles?
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11887-anyone-familiar-gambit-power-fpd-axles.html
Mon, 02 Nov 2009 19:11:18 GMTGambit Power by FPD
The sportsman rear axles I'm considering buying on Ebay are Gambit Power by FPD. The axles are new and cheaper than many of the remanufactured units I see on ebay. Anybody used parts from FPD before? They have parts for FWD cars, VWs, etc.
]]>DrivelineShmeeferhttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11887-anyone-familiar-gambit-power-fpd-axles.htmlcenter driveline
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11879-center-driveline.html
Sun, 01 Nov 2009 21:26:32 GMThi i am build ing a small mini buggy (odyssey)size,i have a polaris 500 scrambler drive train i am using,i bought vw bug axle stubs and cv's joints,does any one know where to get a center drive unit,i will be using atv size chain,and i would like to find a 12 spline center shaft so i can use the beetle outer drive flanges,but i still need to bolt a sprocket and brake rotor on,any help on locating parts would be very helpful,thanks guys
]]>Drivelineu2slowhttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11879-center-driveline.htmlReverse Options
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11873-reverse-options.html
Sun, 01 Nov 2009 00:03:32 GMTBasically I want to have the option of reverse without having to pay $2500 for a differential. Is there anything out there I can do to get a reverse...Basically I want to have the option of reverse without having to pay $2500 for a differential. Is there anything out there I can do to get a reverse for $300 or less?
]]>DrivelineHornshttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11873-reverse-options.htmlwant to cut an axle!
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11856-want-cut-axle.html
Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:36:30 GMTCan you cut and lengthen an axle? I have a pair of axles from a pontiac G6, they measure 13-3/4" spline to spline. Can I add say 4"?
]]>DrivelineTEOhttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11856-want-cut-axle.htmlDrak CV/ Axel swap
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11835-drak-cv-axel-swap.html
Tue, 27 Oct 2009 20:07:44 GMTHi Im new to four wheel racing. I got a 2000 Drakart Formula Cross that was moded by ATVR with King shocks and some other upgrades.
Well I keep...Hi Im new to four wheel racing. I got a 2000 Drakart Formula Cross that was moded by ATVR with King shocks and some other upgrades.
Well I keep breaking axels and CV's. Right now I'm running 2CV Citroen axles and CV's, they are a two piece axle. I was told that these machines wernt made for jumping...if thats so I want to make this thing near bullet proof. What do I need to do? It seems to have too much negative travel, it sits up high in the stroke so as soon as you leave the ground the schock only extends about 3 more inches. At full extension my axle angle is so great it puts my CVs in a bind and...boom, destroyed. I was thinking if the rear suspension was wider the axles would be at less of an angle and therefore less binding. What would be the best/easiest/strongest way to do this? I would like to get into a one piece axle just because i get the feeling they are stronger. How could I do this? If the rear suspension needs widened I thought about just building a 5 link. Any ideas on a fix?
I plan on learnig all of this stuff, I signed up for a 4year mech. engineering degree but dropped out. So I have the will to learn all of everything, I want to use this Drak as a starting point for a up to date engineered single seater desert racer. I plan to go to school or somehow learn what I need to know to build these things, then be able to afford to race em. So tell me everything.
I tried to post a pic but I failed all 100 times. All while changing or widening of the suspension I'll have a million questions as far as geometry and shock location since my trailing arm sock mounts were changed by ATVR for the Kings.
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/mitch/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]
]]>Drivelinenofearmxerhttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11835-drak-cv-axel-swap.htmlcvt motor-clutch adapter problems
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11826-cvt-motor-clutch-adapter-problems.html
Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:02:50 GMTHi guys. So i switched my motor from a honda b16 stock to a crvtec (b20 block w/ b16 head that makes it vtec) the new motor has had some work on...Hi guys. So i switched my motor from a honda b16 stock to a crvtec (b20 block w/ b16 head that makes it vtec) the new motor has had some work on it:
type r intake
type r cams
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
310 cc rc injectors
balanced rotating assembly
adjustable cam gears (set at 0 still)
compression ratio is 10.4 or so
hondata cpu (thanks k-fab)
Ok so here is the problem. After changing the motor i sheared the clutch adapter clean off where the taper meets the clutch. Talked to neil @ atv racing and he says that has never happened that he is aware of so after a month or soo I get a new one from Neil. Fresh batch straight from heat treat. That one lasted a total of 25 mins. sheared it at the same spot.
Meanwhile i decided to find someone locally that I could work with to make a thicker adapter. I have 2 drive clutches a "comet 4pro" and a microbelmont 4 tower. so we took the comet and made the female part of the taper fatter and made a clutch adapter to match leaving as much meat at the base of the adapter. material is 4140. the first one of the locally made ones was not heat treated in any way and after driving it for 30 mins i decide to pull the clutch and check things out. well the clutch spun on the adapter and galled the crap out of the adapter and clutch, oops. So i went back and talked to the guy and he's like ok we'll harden the next one. 10 days later we put a "hardened" piece on. This one lasted aprox. 45 mins before the whole center of the adapter pulled out. The stub pulled from the baseplate w/ the bolt pattern leaving a "donut" on the end of my crank. Again back to the drawing board, the base plate of the original adapters is only 1/4" thick so we fattened that up 3/4" thick and made longer crank bolts. That piece lasted about 1 hour, this time the stub again pulled out the center but not all the way through, just about 1/4" deep. So I know that the pieces being made locally are not being "heattreated" per say but the guy is hardening it some how.
So about half way through this drama I contacted Gary at Micribelmont and explained my situation. He made me up 2 clutch adapters and modified the clutch to accept the new taper and thickened the base plate to 3/4" and sent it to be properly heat treated. I should be getting these pieces by mid week.
The purpose of this post is to see if anyone is having these problems or has some insight as to what is going on.
My clutches are offset perfectly, and paralellism looks on as well, I am going to check perpendicularity today.
I also ordered a harmonic dampner as well to see if that helps.
The tires are 31" mt's that have been "cut"
The RPM is running 8:1 gear ratio
One thing I have pops into my mind but I am not sure is that I am using a very thick oil in the RPM box, I think it is a 205wt. We were having problems with lighter oils turning into water and spewing out the breather line. This is the stuff that is being used in Trophy truck diferentials. Could that be creating too much resistance?
Any way what do you think?
]]>DrivelinebajaBrothershttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11826-cvt-motor-clutch-adapter-problems.htmlChain Strength
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11819-chain-strength.html
Sun, 25 Oct 2009 00:02:54 GMTHey guys im planning on running a 115hp sled motor on a small buggy. What size chain would i need to withstand that type of power?Hey guys im planning on running a 115hp sled motor on a small buggy. What size chain would i need to withstand that type of power?
]]>DrivelineDuden89http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11819-chain-strength.htmlMini buggy front diff
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11806-mini-buggy-front-diff.html
Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:58:13 GMTI'm building a ST4 and I'm going to make it 4x4. Was wondering what you guys thought what might fit in the front to accept CV'S yet be shaft drive to accept Honda 500 rubicon atv drive shaft? I thought about a ford 7.5 rear diff and cutting the tubes off about 4" on each side. Then making custom axles with CV adapters on the ends. Would make them for front and rear maybe. I'm way out there.Has to be strong as it will be a work horse,and hunting vechile.
]]>Drivelinewyattbochehttp://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11806-mini-buggy-front-diff.htmlsno mo gear box
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/driveline/11804-sno-mo-gear-box.html
Thu, 22 Oct 2009 19:32:03 GMThowdy all, just need to pick some brains for info and expertise, was wondering about a snowmobile gear box jack shaft setup, only shorting shaft so...howdy all, just need to pick some brains for info and expertise, was wondering about a snowmobile gear box jack shaft setup, only shorting shaft so secondary is sitting on the box and then getting hole cut on other side of case with longer shaft made for 930 cvs will give me a box with reverse as will be using sno mo engine and running gear will it last in two seat buggy around (just guessing)1200lbs ya, nay, thanks for the input:)
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