chain question?

[arrowhead]

Oh God I could'nt even envision having my setup in a bath but I'm thinking of pumping my cool air into my front sprocket cover and also build in a heavy duty aluminum chain guard cause when I ripped up my half link at Sandfest it broke my clutch pushrod too. Taking some of the engine heat out of the sprocket should help some too

Hell if this crap was easy women and children would be doin' it!

[Bugpac]

jackshaft setup on the busa is going to suck, you got another short chain there with 2 or 3x the torque as the primary chain....

why would you need a flexible coupler, no reason for it if the support bearing was true....Belmore rail has that exact seutp with the sprocket out away from the motor, that also would benefit if it did break likley wouldnt mangle the motor....

[nutz4sand]

The coupler would not have to be flexible. I just mentioned the dwarf car thing as its somewhat common. They just make those and they are easy to get. Anyway to get the sprocket out farther would work. I will look into the Belmore rail setup as I have not heard of it. Sound like it might be a good thing.

As for the torque its gonna go somewhere. Having a longer chain in oil dealing with the torque sound better to me than one short chain cooking itself and still delaing with all the torque.

You are gonna have as much torque as the motor can make verses what the tires can hook up. So even if the secondary chain was dealing with a good bit of power its still sending it to the rear spool. I would not say OK lets make the rear bottom sprocket tiny. Just smaller than some of the pizza pan sprockets I have seen. It just seems like a better way to me. Das all.

It would be a bit of machine work but one could consider a diff out of a front wheel drive car. Leave the gear on it and then feed the power into the shaft of the gear that drives the diff. Let those deal with the grunt of it. But that starts to get a lil more involved than some might wish. Bill

[Gene]

Contact El Toro or Sandaholic for the Belmore deal. The company changed hands and they are pending a new web site, etc.

[masterfabr]

Without a flex coupling you'd better have a very rigid and accurately mounted engine/jackshaft. Whatever ,let us know if it works.

[yummi]

Arrowhead,

You mention a Naca duct and a need to get the air on top of the chain instead of on the side so I assume you are approaching this from the side? (I also see you have a side naca duct) Have you thought about coming in from the top? Like an air ram / intercooler scoop? That way you could use a scoop that mounts above the chain and directs the flow down across the entire length of the chain? Seems the chain would only require cooling while the car was in motion so no need for a fan? From the pictures of your car, it might be a tight fit, but there may be some air flow that passes between the seats that could be redirected? Might eliminate the need for a fan and the associated electrical draw? You could likely use the chain guard in a two fold fashion; one as a guard, two as a vent. But, you figured all that out already no?

[busasandrail]

Originally Posted by arrowhead

I'm only killing the half link that I couldn't get in O ring .The Oring chain itself is surviving just fine but I want to be sure that when I get down south this winter that I won't have problems

Couldn't you adjust your sprocket sizes?
Seems to me if you go up or down (preferably up) 2 teeth sizes on the rear or front it would eliminate the need for the 1/2 link....

[yoshi]

Originally Posted by nutz4sand

I stated this before in a post and someone said it adds parts and thats bad but chains failing are bad to and adding the right parts can help cure the issue. To ME thats a good thing.

Here is what I proposed: It will either take a little space and added parts or a buggy designed to take it from the get-go. Some might not have the room for it as they are.

Instead of a sprocket right at the motor get a driveshaft adaptor (like the dwarf cars that use bike motors and a small car rear end. They are not very expensive) Use this to get the sprocket away from the motor and then you can use a bigger sprocket here (You will of course have to bearing mount it) Then run this chain upwards and backwards so its 1: Longer thus better cooling and 2: larger sprockets make the chain turn less sharply and thus less heat and wear. Then feed this to a jackshaft that then would a chain downward to the spool or tranny (IN arrowheads type setup) This would also benefit cars with HUGE rear sprocket due to they could use a smaller rear sprocket for better ground clearance. Is it perfect? Nope. And it adds a small bit of weight and parts and a bit of parasitic drag. But till someone makes a tranny that connects to the motor directly and can take the snot it would be better for reliability if done right. The secondary chain to the spool could be easy to enclose in an oil bath if that was desired. Even the primary chain away from the motor could be enclosed and oil bathed easily. Larger sprockets and oil bathes would make for only moderate adjustment and a clever design could make inspection and adjustment an easy thing. Just my opinion. Bill

You don't need to move the sprocket out, you can get a pretty good size sprocket on there already.

What you are saying has been done a lot, and Jeffco actually does it on their reverse hub unit that doesn't run a diff...

[arrowhead]

Yes I have a full master and my plan was to perforate my sprocket cover and cool to front sprocket and chain because the sprocket gets engine heat which helps warm the chain too. The fan is a fairly low draw and I was going to use a tps to energize